Solid rear axle, 4-links need to stick to rock crawling and drag racing. They are also not easy to setup if you don't do 4-link alignments frequently. 4AG 16V, no power, TVIS is retarded, gettin' old. 20V 4AG can get real expensive real fast if you want power.
Well there is some positives and negatives
I know quite a bit about cars (Im a mechanic)
but so far from what im seeing you should go for the 180 but i do know a few things about the 180.
they have a tendency for the door and the quarter panels and the floor to rust out because they don't have drain holes or something(can't remeber exact reason) but that may not be a problem for you if you live in florida or something like that
now I don't know all that much about the supra's
but from what I do know is that the odviously come with a inline 6 so u'll get more power over the 180.
but most people do choose a 180, 200 or 240sx because they are easy to get parts for, they are cheap and alot of people like how they feel.
but what most people do on a 180 is they change the rings and get some better heads to up the compresion ratio because I have heard that they also burning oil problem but what older Japanese car doesn't haha plus your gunna spend a bit more on the supra than you are on the 180
plus if you want to it wouldn't be that hard to turbo the supra
but it's up to you
Can you please elaborate as to who makes an aftermarket head for any motor that ever came in a S-Chassis car? CA18, SR20 or KA? Let alone one that raises the compression ratio. Do you realize if you were to
only change the cylinder head (aftermarket or stock), the only way to raise compression (provided the head gasket is the same bore and thickness) is to reduce the combustion chamber size (through milling or valve face design). Raising compression ratio can be a good thing, but that is a function of the engine build (i.e.- timing adjustment, camshaft profile, turbo size, fuel used, etc).
There are areas on both front and rear parts of the unibody of S-Chassis cars where water can drain. If you pull the interior in the rear, I've always injected expanding foam into the body crevices, this seals smoke from entering the cab. Environment and maintenance will make rust thrive more than anything.
Oil only burns when it's passed by a part that controls oil. Valve stem seals, loose valve guides, or piston rings. Or a pushrod V8 where the intake gasket leaks and vacuum pulls oil from the lifter valley. Or you have a hole in a piston, which is a different problem all in it's own. By nature metric rings packs have a lower expanding tension that a ring pack that is imperial (standard).
hey guys, Need someone who actually knows a bit about real life drifting to help me out on a decision. Im looking at buying me my first drift car (base) and I ran across two very different cars which I would love to learn drifting in.
Im not wanting to spend much money after purchasing.
The first car is a 1994 Supra (2JZ-GE).
Manual, TRD LSD, upgraded flywheel, clutch, very clean and well looked after etc. But is non turbo, Im wanting to know if the base power output would be enough. I will probably change the suspension to adjustable's and leave it like that.
The second car is a 1994 180sx
100,000 km black top sr20det engine(in 2010), fully adjust suspension (toe, camber arms etc)all the bells and whistles under the sun (owner say's most work was done to the car in 2010 though) Fairly rough around the edges but allot of money has been spent on her, also allot of thrashing time I'm sure)
What does the community think, Should I go with the 180 or the 2j? Also my girl is leaning towards the supra a bit more so any advice on this car would be much appreciated.
When you say blacktop is it a S14/15 blacktop or S13 blacktop? Does the rear part of the valve cover have a downward slant to it? That would be an easy indication of what it is, and if it's a T25 or T28'ed motor. Common problems with SR's: valve stem seals, dead rings, coils and ignitor, hack wiring jobs (fender wiring tucks or swaps), early style timing chain guide/slack guide, oil pump, cracking front tension rods (area around where the 2 studs go through the tension rods connected to the front suspension brace).
"All the bells and whistles" is not always a positive. Plenty of Chinese knock offs that use subpar heim joints, poor welds, and poorly machined threads compared to quality brands. Example: coilovers where your only way to adjust ride height is to compress and preload the spring.
Common Supra issues: oil pump, dead rings, valve stem seals (Toyota used a polyacrylic material on both intake and exhaust side, they are not as resilient to high temperature as viton), N/A 2JZ blocks do not use a piston oiler (this is debatable as an "issue" but I personally have no problem with it), NA trans speed sensor gear is plastic and can strip over time (there are a number of other Toyota gears that are bronze that will fit the original sensor and can be had for about $15 USD), lifters (2JZ is a solid lifter setup, good, but can be a source of headache on a poorly maintained car or when rebuilding).
In the end, my opinion is the Supra even if it has been abused as much as a S-Chassis car would stand the test of time longer. Bolt on power wise, SR all day. N/A Supra is not so fun to go into an N/A-T setup if you are not mechanically inclined. Plumb oil feed and return to the turbo, water feed and return to the turbo, blah blah blah. Stock bottom end to stock bottom end under boost, 2JZ
ALL day.
Realistically, nothing about drifting or racing in general is cheap. People who have opted to go cheap are usually the ones who get towed off the track, or puke their motors all over the track cutting everyones day shorter. Don't be that dude...
P.S. - This thread belongs in the "Cars in General" section of GTP.