Any tips for a new DFGT owner?

[Dean]

So, today I bought my first wheel, the DFGT. I would like some tips from those who have been using the wheel, on questions like;

Is there anything I should know before I start racing?

I've read about Force Feedback, - what's a good starting setting?

I've also read about the pedal's wearing out, - is the a solution, that can be made and still keep the warranty?

Etc. And please add any information that you think I could need, to know.

(If there is a thread answering questions like this, please tell me, as I couldn't find any answering the questions above.)

 

[Coryd]

Get GranTurgismo's adjustable paddle shifters - they make a world of difference, almost feels like a new wheel.

http://granturgismo.com/buypaddles.html

I haven't had any issues with the pedals wearing out, but they are definitely the flimsiest piece of the DFGT's hardware. There's a tutorial on stiffening them here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zHbqXu-uLKY

As far as FFB settings are concerned, I would just mess around with it and choose what feels right to you.

 

[Dean]

Get GranTurgismo's adjustable paddle shifters - they make a world of difference, almost feels like a new wheel.

http://granturgismo.com/buypaddles.html

I haven't had any issues with the pedals wearing out, but they are definitely the flimsiest piece of the DFGT's hardware. There's a tutorial on stiffening them here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zHbqXu-uLKY

As far as FFB settings are concerned, I would just mess around with it and choose what feels right to you.

Thanks a lot for you answer!

Regarding the shifters, I don't like those paddle shifters, as I'll most likely not get a car with those in it, but thanks for the tip.

Regarding the brakes, will I still keep the warranty if I do the same as in the video?

Regarding the FFB, I know it goes from 0 to 10 (less than 10?) So is it 0 that gives maximum FFB, or is it 10?

 

[Infinital-NG]

If you did the spring mod, you could compress the spring back to original state or close before you had to send it to Logitech.

If they asked if you opened it up, just say no. I don't think there are any "Void when removed" stickers on it, but I might be wrong. I don't remember seeing any on mine, but not at home to check.

 

[TP1]

Is there anything I should know before I start racing?

I've read about Force Feedback, - what's a good starting setting?

I've also read about the pedal's wearing out, - is the a solution, that can be made and still keep the warranty?

Etc. And please add any information that you think I could need, to know.

(If there is a thread answering questions like this, please tell me, as I couldn't find any answering the questions above.)

If you're used to Controller, then it will be somewhat harder to catch a car as it begins spinning out (due to the slow mechanical turn of the DFGT) you just can not go from lock to lock fast enough to counter it; unless you drastically reduce FFB, but then the rest of the driving won't feel the same.
But this nostly happens on badly setup cars, in extreme conditions and in the FormulaGT.

FFB at 5, Simulator mode ON, and that other thing also ON (it should give the same feel and feedback like driving a real car). ('ve read that FFB 10 is damaging to the wheel over an extended period of time.

I've used my DFGT for a year and a half, on a nearly daily basis; and have had no problem: neither wheel nor pedals.

I recommend setting up the pedals so they are at about 35 degree angle. Depending on your foot size, put tem slightly off-centre towards your left. This will allow you to brake using your entire left foot, and modulating the throttle with the tip of you right foot (large toe, and the one near it).
That angling also allows for a sense of it being less soft (as keeping them flat on the ground offers no resistance at all).

Setup the wheel on a sturdy table, if you don't have a rig. As in critical moments, like trying to catch a spi out, you'll have to turn the wheel really fast, and since it's mechanically too slow, it will give a lot of resistance, which may lift the table it's hooked to.

I setup the gear lever as Reverse for Up - and Handbrake for Down +, after the novelty of changing gears with it wore off.
Those shift buttons may not be realistic, but they are sturdy, and you always know for sure when you clicked them.

 

[Coryd]

Regarding the shifters, I don't like those paddle shifters, as I'll most likely not get a car with those in it, but thanks for the tip.

The paddle shifters on your wheel can be used in any car in the game regardless of whether or not the car has paddles in real life. Feel free to use the sequential shifter if you like, but I've found that using the paddles (especially with the GranTurgismo add-ons) results in significantly faster lap times. I don't ever use the sequential to change gears, instead I've changed the UP function to Reverse and DOWN to Handbrake.

 

[razzerx]

Don't pee into the wind.

 

[Dean]

If you're used to Controller, then it will be somewhat harder to catch a car as it begins spinning out (due to the slow mechanical turn of the DFGT) you just can not go from lock to lock fast enough to counter it; unless you drastically reduce FFB, but then the rest of the driving won't feel the same.
But this nostly happens on badly setup cars, in extreme conditions and in the FormulaGT.

FFB at 5, Simulator mode ON, and that other thing also ON (it should give the same feel and feedback like driving a real car). ('ve read that FFB 10 is damaging to the wheel over an extended period of time.

I've used my DFGT for a year and a half, on a nearly daily basis; and have had no problem: neither wheel nor pedals.

I recommend setting up the pedals so they are at about 35 degree angle. Depending on your foot size, put tem slightly off-centre towards your left. This will allow you to brake using your entire left foot, and modulating the throttle with the tip of you right foot (large toe, and the one near it).
That angling also allows for a sense of it being less soft (as keeping them flat on the ground offers no resistance at all).

Setup the wheel on a sturdy table, if you don't have a rig. As in critical moments, like trying to catch a spi out, you'll have to turn the wheel really fast, and since it's mechanically too slow, it will give a lot of resistance, which may lift the table it's hooked to.

I setup the gear lever as Reverse for Up - and Handbrake for Down +, after the novelty of changing gears with it wore off.
Those shift buttons may not be realistic, but they are sturdy, and you always know for sure when you clicked them.

Thanks for your answer. I guess I'll be making a wooden plank, or something in a 35 degree angle, for the pedals.

The paddle shifters on your wheel can be used in any car in the game regardless of whether or not the car has paddles in real life. Feel free to use the sequential shifter if you like, but I've found that using the paddles (especially with the GranTurgismo add-ons) results in significantly faster lap times. I don't ever use the sequential to change gears, instead I've changed the UP function to Reverse and DOWN to Handbrake.

Well, I'll consider buying the paddles.

Don't pee into the wind.

I can't really say, this (^)'s on topic, - but good tip anyway.

 

[tpark103]

Keep it smooth and plan your next move. Don't have high expectations at the beginning. I had to start with aids then I gradually dialed them back. I just wanted to get used to the difference. Slowly I noticed myself getting faster. :-) I instantly noticed how much more fun it was!!