Any tips on rally suspension tuning?

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So far what I've done is start with a 4wD vehicle, tune the ride height all the way up, and everything else as close to zero as it will go. I then move to drivetrain where I use 50/50 TDCD. I set the LSDs to 15/20/5. Then I start to lower the ride heights by 5 and stiffen the spring rates by 1.00ish (to give myself a round number to work with). After a few laps of making these changes, my times tend to get a little better and I get slightly better performance, but still not to the cars full potential. Any help and/or suggestions are welcome. Thanks
 
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Do you have your ABS at 0. This helps it slide it around the curves. Also try 45/55 on the torque split.
I use abs1. I'll try 0 and see what that does for me. The 50/50 torque split seems to give a fair amount of rotation. If I add power at the rear with 45/55 split should I probably go with a lower lsd setting? Maybe adjust the lsd bias toward the front to add rear grip?

Have the ARB's set very low, this will allow the wheels to act independently and stop the car getting thrown around
I had the RH maxed, SR at minimum, dampers and ARBs at 1, camber and toe angles at zero to start. When I tried the default FC Suspension, I got thrown around pretty violently over those last hills at Toscana haha. Any tips on dampers? I still have them at 1 for quick bound/rebound

Edit: by the way, I'm using the GT-R spec II nur (R-34). I dunno if that makes a difference in tuning balance or not. I figured since it offered a rally package it might perform well like it does on tarmac
 
Not sure if it's just personal preference, but I found that stiff springs and soft dampers helped me get around corners better.
 
Not sure if it's just personal preference, but I found that stiff springs and soft dampers helped me get around corners better.
Thanks for the tip. Thats what works well on my 550pp BMW coupe for London, but I haven't tried that on a rally suspension yet. I'll give that a shot too.
 
I use abs1. I'll try 0 and see what that does for me. The 50/50 torque split seems to give a fair amount of rotation. If I add power at the rear with 45/55 split should I probably go with a lower lsd setting? Maybe adjust the lsd bias toward the front to add rear grip?


I had the RH maxed, SR at minimum, dampers and ARBs at 1, camber and toe angles at zero to start. When I tried the default FC Suspension, I got thrown around pretty violently over those last hills at Toscana haha. Any tips on dampers? I still have them at 1 for quick bound/rebound

Edit: by the way, I'm using the GT-R spec II nur (R-34). I dunno if that makes a difference in tuning balance or not. I figured since it offered a rally package it might perform well like it does on tarmac
When tuning any car all the parts need to balance, springs are the first place to start as they are the primary part. Set all the dampers/ARBs/toe and camber to neutral values (3 or 0.0)
The springs need to be first balanced to the static weight distribution of the car, if you haven't added any ballast then you can use the little bars near the number as reference. Simply move the F/R spring rates up and down until the bars are roughly the same size. If you have altered the weight distribution then the bars will not be accurate but with experience you'll learn how much to compensate.

The car is now balanced, take it out for a spin and concentrate on how the car behaves. First test should concentrate on the driving feel-
How much grip do I have and how quickly is the car reacting to my inputs?
If the car feels like it has loads of grip but is a bit slow to respond to steering input then the springs are too soft overall so you should increase both front and rear spring rates equally (using the bars as reference)
If the car feels sharp and quick to react to inputs but like it doesn't have enough grip then the springs are too stiff overall so you should decrease both front and rear spring rates equally (using the bars as reference)

Once you have found your basic balance next comes altering the balance to your advantage. The next test will concentrate on basic rotation-
How does my car feel while turning on entry and exit to a corner?
If the car feels like it understeers on entry but feels good on exit then the front spring rate should be lowered slightly.
If the car feels good on entry but understeers on the exit then the rear spring rate should be increased slightly.
If the car oversteers on entry then you should stiffen the front springs slightly
If the car oversteers on exit then you should soften the rear springs slightly

Now the springs are set you should move onto the dampers and ARBs. The dampers can be split into 2 groups - Front Comp/Rear Ext which are for altering behaviour on entry and Front Ext/Rear Comp for altering behaviour on exit.

Entry - When we brake we transfer weight onto the front wheels and away from the rear, weight = grip so this means the front wheels gain grip and the rear wheels lose grip. Your aim is to transfer enough weight to the front wheels to generate grip but not so much that the rear loses grip.
Front Comp + = Increased responsiveness from steering/Less front end grip
Front Comp - = Increased front end grip/Decreased steering responsiveness
Rear Ext + = More rear end stability/Less front end grip
Rear Ext - = More front end grip/Less rear end stability

Exit - When we are past the apex and we begin to accelerate again we transfer weight onto the rear wheels and away from the front. Your aim is to transfer enough weight onto the rear to generate grip for acceleration but not reduce the amount of turning grip available.
Front Ext + = More front end grip/Less rear end stability
Front Ext - = More rear end stability/Less front end grip
Rear Comp + = Less rear end grip/More front end grip
Rear Comp - = More rear end grip/Less front end grip
 
When tuning any car all the parts need to balance, springs are the first place to start as they are the primary part. Set all the dampers/ARBs/toe and camber to neutral values (3 or 0.0)
The springs need to be first balanced to the static weight distribution of the car, if you haven't added any ballast then you can use the little bars near the number as reference. Simply move the F/R spring rates up and down until the bars are roughly the same size. If you have altered the weight distribution then the bars will not be accurate but with experience you'll learn how much to compensate.

The car is now balanced, take it out for a spin and concentrate on how the car behaves. First test should concentrate on the driving feel-
How much grip do I have and how quickly is the car reacting to my inputs?
If the car feels like it has loads of grip but is a bit slow to respond to steering input then the springs are too soft overall so you should increase both front and rear spring rates equally (using the bars as reference)
If the car feels sharp and quick to react to inputs but like it doesn't have enough grip then the springs are too stiff overall so you should decrease both front and rear spring rates equally (using the bars as reference)

Once you have found your basic balance next comes altering the balance to your advantage. The next test will concentrate on basic rotation-
How does my car feel while turning on entry and exit to a corner?
If the car feels like it understeers on entry but feels good on exit then the front spring rate should be lowered slightly.
If the car feels good on entry but understeers on the exit then the rear spring rate should be increased slightly.
If the car oversteers on entry then you should stiffen the front springs slightly
If the car oversteers on exit then you should soften the rear springs slightly

Now the springs are set you should move onto the dampers and ARBs. The dampers can be split into 2 groups - Front Comp/Rear Ext which are for altering behaviour on entry and Front Ext/Rear Comp for altering behaviour on exit.

Entry - When we brake we transfer weight onto the front wheels and away from the rear, weight = grip so this means the front wheels gain grip and the rear wheels lose grip. Your aim is to transfer enough weight to the front wheels to generate grip but not so much that the rear loses grip.
Front Comp + = Increased responsiveness from steering/Less front end grip
Front Comp - = Increased front end grip/Decreased steering responsiveness
Rear Ext + = More rear end stability/Less front end grip
Rear Ext - = More front end grip/Less rear end stability

Exit - When we are past the apex and we begin to accelerate again we transfer weight onto the rear wheels and away from the front. Your aim is to transfer enough weight onto the rear to generate grip for acceleration but not reduce the amount of turning grip available.
Front Ext + = More front end grip/Less rear end stability
Front Ext - = More rear end stability/Less front end grip
Rear Comp + = Less rear end grip/More front end grip
Rear Comp - = More rear end grip/Less front end grip
Wow thank you for the time put in to that detailed response. I look forward to trying these when I get back to the ps3. I appreciate the help
 
I have really only published one rally tune for GT6.
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/motor-city-tunes-gt6.291066/page-16#post-9725980

I wrote a beginning to end guide for tuning a rally car in GT5. Some of that still may apply?
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/rally-car-tune-build-process-by-mch.271160/
Thanks for all you contribution in gt5/6. I didn't know you did a rally guide for gt5. This has been quite the learning curve for me in this game. My race tunes really seem to only fit my (crazy) driving style, so this has been a lot of frustrating fun for me to try to comprehend. Thanks for the tuning guide link, Mr. Hami. I'll check it out, too! :cheers:
 
Just wanted to say Thanks for the help, guys. I got gold with the tuning help with my GT-R nur. The only other tune I tried that was faster (by a long shot) was Otaliemas Subaru.
 
Just wanted to say Thanks for the help, guys. I got gold with the tuning help with my GT-R nur. The only other tune I tried that was faster (by a long shot) was Otaliemas Subaru.
Well done 👍
Just for future reference, the skylines aren't a great place to start when building a rally car, they're just too long and not nimble enough. An Imprezza or an Evo is a much better place to start, the shorter wheelbase and low down grunt makes for a much more capable platform
 
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