Been studying guides; what i'm doing wrong?

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karsten_beoulve
Since the game is massively oriented to tuning and you have no chances of good results without being a good tuner in any tuning allowed serie i decided to try and study guides and come up with a tune on a random car.

i choose the
ACCORD Euro-R '02

installed all the top upgrades beside turbo, i installed it at lv1 and proceeded for 3 hours driving testing and tuning following the various guides around. Before i share my tune (that is probably goddamn awful to any decent pro here) i would like any willingly tuner to highlight to me what i did wrong in my setup and why.

my best on the setting with rear aero installed and at 365hps at GVS is 2.15.7 on comfort soft tyres

ride height 92/85 (higher front to help rotation)
flex 5,43/12.85 (trying to cure understeer and have a more "slidy back)
comp 2/7
ext 2/7 both to lower understeer
rollbars 2/5 trying to stop the massive body roll
camber 0,8/0.0 hoping for atiny little bit of front grip
toe -0.20/-0.10 (helping turn in?)

lsd 10/5/15 (i'm not very good at tuning this)

i'm pretty sure any expert tuner will spot something REALLY wrong, but i guess highlighting the mistakes can be a great help to all those driver that have been avoiding series with tuning allowed so far and being istructive to all gtp users :)

karsten
 
Since the game is massively oriented to tuning and you have no chances of good results without being a good tuner in any tuning allowed serie i decided to try and study guides and come up with a tune on a random car.

i choose the
ACCORD Euro-R '02

installed all the top upgrades beside turbo, i installed it at lv1 and proceeded for 3 hours driving testing and tuning following the various guides around. Before i share my tune (that is probably goddamn awful to any decent pro here) i would like any willingly tuner to highlight to me what i did wrong in my setup and why.

my best on the setting with rear aero installed and at 365hps at GVS is 2.15.7 on comfort soft tyres

ride height 92/85 (higher front to help rotation)
flex 5,43/12.85 (trying to cure understeer and have a more "slidy back)
comp 2/7
ext 2/7 both to lower understeer
rollbars 2/5 trying to stop the massive body roll
camber 0,8/0.0 hoping for atiny little bit of front grip
toe -0.20/-0.10 (helping turn in?)

lsd 10/5/15 (i'm not very good at tuning this)

i'm pretty sure any expert tuner will spot something REALLY wrong, but i guess highlighting the mistakes can be a great help to all those driver that have been avoiding series with tuning allowed so far and being istructive to all gtp users :)

karsten
I think the key for you is to start back from default. All the guides here on GTP I have found them all to be extremely helpful. You have to drive the car and determine what can improve along with what you are tuning for.

With a FF car I would worry about rotation and understeer. There are several ways to tune this out, but remember being a FF car it will always have understeer in some shape or form.

My method, which is different from the way other people tune would be as follows.

1st : weight transfer. Get the spring rates setup first. Do not forget to look at the weight of the car along with weight distribution. This will also determine the amount of mechanical grip you will get from the car.

2nd : LSD settings. I find this setting will make or break a lot of tunes I have tried in the past. Find a sweet spot that you feel comfortable with making the car rotate.

3rd : I go two ways here. I either start with ARBs or go into brake balance. I would work both extremes of either and slowly work backwards to a happy medium with each setting. Focus on one setting at a time. Then move to the next item

4th : this is where the fine tuning begins with the dampers dealing with compression and extension. Another item that I try fully stiff and fully loose then work my way to the happy medium with each setting 1 at a time.

Ultimately, I am always tweaking each car I have tuned at every different track, it is a never ending process. Another thing to try is to look at someone else's tune and try to work the tune back to stock to see how they went about tuning.

Your first car that you tune will not be Uber tune, but it will just be a stepping stone into better tunes you will make in the future as you continue to do so.

Do not forget that every adjustment has a trade off and some will be good tradeoffs for your driving style and others will not be. You will find those pretty quickly.
 
lsd 10/5/15

Start here. I would bet that you are getting lots of inside wheel spin coming off the corners. I would also guess that the car has understeer on entry and through mid-corner. My LSD guide works pretty well (see links in my signature).

I would start with default settings as mentioned above, but not the in-game default settings. Here are mine for a FF drivetrain.

LSD at 7/10/5
Ride Height at about 15 or 20 numbers above the lowest available.
Springs a little lower in the front than in the rear. Also with comfort tires, I would start pretty low, around 20% of the way up the slider.
Damper compression 3/4
Damper extension 7/3
ARB 2/5
Camber 0.0/1.0
Toe -0.15/-0.10
Brake Balance 4/6
Downforce at none if you can. FFs do not really need rear aero. If you choose to add aero for looks, as I do sometimes, use the lowest setting, like 5.
 
Since the game is massively oriented to tuning and you have no chances of good results without being a good tuner in any tuning allowed serie i decided to try and study guides and come up with a tune on a random car.

i choose the
ACCORD Euro-R '02

installed all the top upgrades beside turbo, i installed it at lv1 and proceeded for 3 hours driving testing and tuning following the various guides around. Before i share my tune (that is probably goddamn awful to any decent pro here) i would like any willingly tuner to highlight to me what i did wrong in my setup and why.

my best on the setting with rear aero installed and at 365hps at GVS is 2.15.7 on comfort soft tyres

ride height 92/85 (higher front to help rotation)
flex 5,43/12.85 (trying to cure understeer and have a more "slidy back)
comp 2/7
ext 2/7 both to lower understeer
rollbars 2/5 trying to stop the massive body roll
camber 0,8/0.0 hoping for atiny little bit of front grip
toe -0.20/-0.10 (helping turn in?)

lsd 10/5/15 (i'm not very good at tuning this)

i'm pretty sure any expert tuner will spot something REALLY wrong, but i guess highlighting the mistakes can be a great help to all those driver that have been avoiding series with tuning allowed so far and being istructive to all gtp users :)

karsten
What does your transmission setup look like? Yes I know, sounds like a dumb question when talking about understeer in the corners, but I've been doing a lot of transmission tests this last week and have found some setups that help the front end be more responsive. I have no logical answer as to why! But it can be helpful for those pesky FF and AWD cars to get you going on the right foot, then throw a @Motor City Hami quick setup on and adjust from there.
 
Start here. I would bet that you are getting lots of inside wheel spin coming off the corners. I would also guess that the car has understeer on entry and through mid-corner. My LSD guide works pretty well (see links in my signature).

I would start with default settings as mentioned above, but not the in-game default settings. Here are mine for a FF drivetrain.

LSD at 7/10/5
Ride Height at about 15 or 20 numbers above the lowest available.
Springs a little lower in the front than in the rear. Also with comfort tires, I would start pretty low, around 20% of the way up the slider.
Damper compression 3/4
Damper extension 7/3
ARB 2/5
Camber 0.0/1.0
Toe -0.15/-0.10
Brake Balance 4/6
Downforce at none if you can. FFs do not really need rear aero. If you choose to add aero for looks, as I do sometimes, use the lowest setting, like 5.
Damper ext 7/3
This is an interesting setting can you expain it?
I'm also surprised of seeing a zero front camber and higher back.

The lsd is completely wrong i know, i'll study the guide linked, for the one i used wasn't very useful.

As of now the car rolls a bit too much on entry but its back slides nicely. Understeer is a bit cured but strong lift oversteer i tried to induce.

Gearing is another bad beast! Tried fixing it but car has massive problems in 3rd gear due to excessive torque.

I should probably rid completely turbo upgrade and lower hps

Thanks for your help and suggestions guys i'll keep up my effort to learn tuning :)
 
Dampers are quite complicated but here's some notes I have that keeps it relatively simple and they are quite effective in GT6.

"The extension cycle controls the motions of the vehicle body's sprung weight. The compression cycle controls the same motions of the vehicle's unsprung weight. This means that if you're trying to adjust the way that the car's body rolls, you should use extension, and, if you're trying to adjust the way the tires bounce off of curbs, you should use compression"

Front Compression - effective over bumps/kerbs and when braking/coasting
- Higher Numbers = harder for weight to shift onto front, reduces oversteer/increases understeer
- Lower Numbers = easier for weight to shift onto front, increases oversteer/reduces understeer

Rear Compression - effective over bumps/kerbs and when accelerating
- Higher Numbers = harder for weight to shift onto rear, reduces understeer/ increases oversteer
- Lower Numbers = easier for weight to shift onto rear, reduces oversteer/increases understeer

Front Extension - effective when accelerating
- Higher Numbers = harder for weight to shift off front, reduces understeer/ increases oversteer
- Lower Numbers = easier for weight to shift off front, reduces oversteer/increases understeer

Rear Extension - effective when braking/coasting
- Higher Numbers = harder for weight to shift off rear, reduces oversteer/increases understeer
- Lower Numbers = easier for weight to shift off rear, reduces understeer/increases oversteer
 
Dampers are quite complicated but here's some notes I have that keeps it relatively simple and they are quite effective in GT6.

"The extension cycle controls the motions of the vehicle body's sprung weight. The compression cycle controls the same motions of the vehicle's unsprung weight. This means that if you're trying to adjust the way that the car's body rolls, you should use extension, and, if you're trying to adjust the way the tires bounce off of curbs, you should use compression"

Front Compression - effective over bumps/kerbs and when braking/coasting
- Higher Numbers = harder for weight to shift onto front, reduces oversteer/increases understeer
- Lower Numbers = easier for weight to shift onto front, increases oversteer/reduces understeer

Rear Compression - effective over bumps/kerbs and when accelerating
- Higher Numbers = harder for weight to shift onto rear, reduces understeer/ increases oversteer
- Lower Numbers = easier for weight to shift onto rear, reduces oversteer/increases understeer

Front Extension - effective when accelerating
- Higher Numbers = harder for weight to shift off front, reduces understeer/ increases oversteer
- Lower Numbers = easier for weight to shift off front, reduces oversteer/increases understeer

Rear Extension - effective when braking/coasting
- Higher Numbers = harder for weight to shift off rear, reduces oversteer/increases understeer
- Lower Numbers = easier for weight to shift off rear, reduces understeer/increases oversteer
Now this sounds interesting said this way 👍
 
i'll dl the giga update and when i get time go back to tuning and post the results...

i'll probably detune the car to the Campionato Italiano Superturismo power at 275Hps and start working on lsd/transmission and see how much difference it'll make.

btw along while tuning i was faster on GVS with turbo lv1 instead of trubo lv 3 even if it meant like 60hps less. Too much power on such a front heavy car was slowing it down massively!
 
Depending on any rules/preferences/beliefs about its use, ballast can be effective in FF cars and is best combined with some initial weight loss.

More weight towards the front can help increase front grip especially under acceleration and mid-exit corner, indeed you will often see the PP go up by a point when ballast is moved towards the drive wheels (FR also) and it can really help with getting the power down. Something like 60:40 is good start.

However there is always a compromise of course. It can increase entry understeer, and maybe help to overload already stressed front tyres.

Some tuners and drivers (and cars even) prefer ballast in the back to achieve, or get close to, a 50/50 weight distribution. This can give you a more balanced, faster corner entry, but at the expense of some drive grip.

There is a bit of personal preference and driving style and the track to consider. But remember that changing weight and weight distribution might upset the tune you already have.


EDIT: I'll just add, that the hardest part about tuning for me is working out what is actually happening when driving. Why is that tyre turning red? Is the back end breaking away because something is too hard or too soft? etc etc.

Only when you can answer these questions can you apply the knowledge in the guides. And this kind of understanding makes the difference between on okay tune (eg mine) and an excellent tune (these guys in the tuning forum :bowdown:).
 
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My advice is don't waste your time on FWD cars as the physics is completely FUBAR

Stick with FR or MR and the tuning might make a bit more sense :)
 
Well if you want to recreate the marvellous series of old (in this case il campionato italiano superturismo) you have to stick with the cars that raced it.

Also i just found out i took the wrong accord lol.

In any case i've learnt a lot i can apply to it right away. My target is now the accord 2000. I'll update this topic about my step by step efforts and lap time improvements.

Probably a fresh start may be helpful
 
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