BMW V12 LMR settings (Stormtrooper's, etc)

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stormtrooper026

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26
________front_______rear
Springs__13.0_______13.0
Height____74________74
bound_____3_________3
rebound___8_________8 *note on bumpy courses 7 frt & bck
camber___1.5_________.7
toe_______0_________ 0 *note short windy corses 2 back
swaybar____6________ 6

Brakes_____4________3

Traction control___7

Spent awile useing notes from this board to come up with this set up. I love this car, brakes well not the best but good. Might be alittle loose going in but you can rocket out of the turns, and that is what wins races. In race trim this thing goes 249mph with the stage 4 turbo. hope you like it.
 
I bought the car for the Professional Series World Championship series race and for the life of me i cant get the thing to brake well. I find it hard to believe my stock Volvo 245 can out brake a Lemans car from 100 to 20mph.

I've tried moving the brake bias to 8/5 gets a little skid if you nail it hard.. Tried making the front shocks a little softer on the bound so i could get some dive... nope.

What are you guys using to get some bite on these cars in general so you can use R2/R1 tires so you dont have to pit?
 
boostdemon
I bought the car for the Professional Series World Championship series race and for the life of me i cant get the thing to brake well. I find it hard to believe my stock Volvo 245 can out brake a Lemans car from 100 to 20mph.

I've tried moving the brake bias to 8/5 gets a little skid if you nail it hard.. Tried making the front shocks a little softer on the bound so i could get some dive... nope.

What are you guys using to get some bite on these cars in general so you can use R2/R1 tires so you dont have to pit?
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I allready posted mysettings they are on this tread under stormtroopers bmw v12 settings, A side note though they are for the stage 4 turbo, if you don't have the turbo go softer on the front springs by 0.5 and add a bitt more camber to the front. The thing just does not brake well on any setting above 4 though and seems tough for me to get turn in right but I do drive it and win, I spent alot of time on the set up, hope you can use it.
 
Look pretty good, I be a little concerned with "ratcheting" with the shocks that far apart though.. basically when you hit a bump it gets locked down at the bottom of the travel for a second.

I'm gonna try these settings out and see if i can get it to turn in under braking a little better (i have the same stage4 turbo as well) and post back up tonight
 
Ok, spent some time last night playing with settings... I ran the above setttings on hongkong: only managed a 1:12 on R2/R1 tires... switched to R3's and got a 1:09 not good enough to beat the 2 cars rolling 1:11's consistantly. Could only manage 4th.

Brakes:

I spent some time launching and braking at the 300m mark on the ddrag strip to find straight line braking improvments. found that there was little difference between 3 and 8 in the settings... testing on a track i found 5/3 worked best w/o making the back end loose. (this is with R2/R1 tires front/rear)

I took the front spring rate down to 12.6 front and 13.3 rear
Took the sway bars down to 3 front and 4 rear
added toe-in to the front +1
.... that was much better. I then started messing with the weight balance adding more to the front or rear... it felt different in teh extremes but didnt do anything for my lap times.


All that said and done, I actually took everyones advice and ran the Race with R2 front and R1 rear tires, the difference in times when you have to slow down to keep from sliding into walls which ends up in spin outs costs way too much- at least for me. I'll stick with R3/R2 and pit half way. I couldnt manage even a poll position on 4 races.

Im giving up on this car for now, going to buy the nissan and run that instead. I just cant seem to drive this hunk of junk. Im still pissed about how poorly it brakes... maybe it only brakes well with sticky tires, i just find that rediculous for a purebread race car.

Let me know if you find something new
 
you buy it with 4.5million credits.... the fastest way to make money is this:

Buy an SL* Mercedes, trick it out so its fast as crap.. race the "Legend of Silver Arrow" and get the touring car. Add a turbo to it... Take the touring car to the European events and run the Touring car championship on B-spec x3 - 5 races 15k 1st place prize = 75k overall prize 75k... win a GTR merc worth 700k+ ... so you make about 880k in 15 minutes with minimal work.

^^ Faster than what i did which was race that damned capri rally 15 times :(
 
Ya you have to buy it. Well boostdemon I will try your brakes and the sway bar and toe. I agree it is not the best prototype but it is so cool to watch, the car looks great and watching the drivers head move around is cool too. If your brakes work any better than mine I many be able to win in the extreme leage w/o the turbo, I am going to buy the playstation french LMP next let you know what I come up with.
 
boostdemon & Stormtrooper,

I dont see the BMW V12 LMR in BMW new car list.

Also, I'm interested to get the Audi R8. I know this can be won in Endurance Hall, but what if I wanna buy it?

so far i'm 17% into the game.

Am I missing out something?

thanks,
D
 
The cars are in the classics section. You can buy the Audi R8 also. This is a set up thread so bring us back some set up info when you get the car doing what you want. thanks
 
This thread sort of got me interested in the car so I bought it an played around a bit with it... I ended up with:

Springs at 13f/15r
Height at 60f/65r
Bound at 3/3
Rebound at 7/7
Camber at 2.5/1.5
Toe +1f/-1r
Left the Stabs at 6/6
Brakes at 4/4

Left the diff at stock (10/40/20 I think)

I weighted the front with 50 set at -50.

With the turbo in I simply clicked up a couple on the tranny and left it there.

With that set-up, I found I was able to run the whole pro GT World Championship with wins pretty easily with a DSII controller on R3/R2 tires for the whole series. In fact, on the tracks I am pretty familiar with in that series (about 1/2) I didn't bother qualifying for the post.

You do have to control yourself a bit and try to stay smooth and you are right, the brakes are something you have to adjust to.

For reference, Hong Kong (not a good track for me normally) was an average of 1:10's with a fast one or two down around 1:08.

I even let Rolf have a go at the series in Bspec and he took first in everything but Lemans, which he took a second in. I quit qualifying him after New York.

Hope it helps someone.

Thanks for getting me interested in this car. I like it. Pretty stable/predictable in the City Runs.

phattboy
 
Stormtrooper or anyone else with any insight:

I've used the BMW V12 LMR a lot yet the one track I cannot seem to overcome with it is Sarthe (with Chicanes).

My main problem comes at the high speed section after the Mulsanne Straight (after the more than 90 degree right turn and before the chicane).

My car always seems to drift off line while I am hitting max speeds down this section forcing me to make minor steering inputs all the way which increases the danger of me spinning the car out at over 200 mph before I even get to brake for the chicane at the end.

Why is the car so unstable at high speed and only really in this section? Then to make matter worse, the car is unstable when I brake at the end of this section and I usually end up wiping out into the sand.

I tried altering the suspension (raised, lowered, stiffend, softened, etc.), the downforce, the toe, etc yet I can't make the car really stable.

Any thoughts?
 
larrymags
...I've used the BMW V12 LMR a lot yet the one track I cannot seem to overcome with it is Sarthe (with Chicanes).

My main problem comes at the high speed section after the Mulsanne Straight (after the more than 90 degree right turn and before the chicane).

My car always seems to drift off line while I am hitting max speeds down this section forcing me to make minor steering inputs all the way which increases the danger of me spinning the car out at over 200 mph before I even get to brake for the chicane at the end.

Why is the car so unstable at high speed and only really in this section? Then to make matter worse, the car is unstable when I brake at the end of this section and I usually end up wiping out into the sand.

I tried altering the suspension (raised, lowered, stiffend, softened, etc.), the downforce, the toe, etc yet I can't make the car really stable.

Any thoughts?
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Well, this is really interesting, because you just described exactly what the Peugeot 905 does at Sarth, but I don't think I got this sort of behavior there with the Bimmer. I'll try it there again to see if my memory is off.

The only thing that helped the Peugeot was raising it way up. Watching replays or when B-Speccing, the 905 still sends out big showers of sparks over bumps, even with lots of ride height. How about your Bimmer? Do you see sparks flying at Sarth?
 
Zardoz
Well, this is really interesting, because you just described exactly what the Peugeot 905 does at Sarth, but I don't think I got this sort of behavior there with the Bimmer. I'll try it there again to see if my memory is off.

The only thing that helped the Peugeot was raising it way up. Watching replays or when B-Speccing, the 905 still sends out big showers of sparks over bumps, even with lots of ride height. How about your Bimmer? Do you see sparks flying at Sarth?
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I haven't really noticed sparks but I haven't been watching for it. I'll watch a replay I have later.

At first I added some mad toe on the front and rear and that helped a bit but I still noticed high speed instability. So I raised the ride height and softened springs and that helped some more. Then I changed the LSD decel to make it stronger and that helped the braking.

However I jumped into a stock 787B to compare as well as a GT-1 and they are so much more stable. So stable that I am braking later and holding my line better through that section after Mulsanne I was talking about.
 
larrymags
I haven't really noticed sparks but I haven't been watching for it. I'll watch a replay I have later.

At first I added some mad toe on the front and rear and that helped a bit but I still noticed high speed instability. So I raised the ride height and softened springs and that helped some more. Then I changed the LSD decel to make it stronger and that helped the braking.

However I jumped into a stock 787B to compare as well as a GT-1 and they are so much more stable. So stable that I am braking later and holding my line better through that section after Mulsanne I was talking about.
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The question that I have is whether you think the instablility and what is causing you to loose it into the sand is induced from the front or the rear. I don't know that I would be ruling out dealing with toe and/or spring rate settings for this ultra high speed track. I know my settings ended up being radically different for this track than for many others with the BMW.

BTW...mad toe... :lol: :lol: :lol: did ya stub it or sumthin' and now it's a :grumpy: little piggy? :lol: :lol: :lol: I've gotten a thousand chuckles out of the way you put that.

phattboy
 
Tried the Bimmer with stock suspension settings on Sarth II again, driving A-Spec and observing B-Spec.

While it may not be as rock-solid as the Peskies or the Speed 8, it sure isn't bad on the back side of the course. Its nothing like the stock Peugeot, which is very hard to keep on the road. In fact, I would say it is more stable on that part of the course than the Sauber.

I watched closely in B-Spec and did not see a single spark. Raising the ride height probably won't help you.

Its interesting how two players can get such different impressions in this game. Just for the record, do you have the PAL or NTSC version? I have NTSC.
 
Zardoz
Tried the Bimmer with stock suspension settings on Sarth II again, driving A-Spec and observing B-Spec.

While it may not be as rock-solid as the Peskies or the Speed 8, it sure isn't bad on the back side of the course. Its nothing like the stock Peugeot, which is very hard to keep on the road. In fact, I would say it is more stable on that part of the course than the Sauber.

I watched closely in B-Spec and did not see a single spark. Raising the ride height probably won't help you.

Its interesting how two players can get such different impressions in this game. Just for the record, do you have the PAL or NTSC version? I have NTSC.
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I think he is running Sarthe I and you are running Sarthe II... He said he is running the "chicaned" Sarthe. Either way, I would think the reaction of the car would be similar in the general area. I just ran the BMW again through the Sarthe I and my impression is much the same as yours, didn't really notice anything particular. I did run both sides of the road a time or two and there is a better side to the road just before the chicanes and similar at the end of the straight but other than that ???

I am also running the NTSC version. I would like to know how he has it actually set up as well.

phattboy
 
Haha! Mad toe..... I just meant to say that I ran the toe setting all the way so that the tires point in all the way.

When I lose the car at high speed I loose the rear first and it just snaps away quickly so unless I correct with superhuman speed I can't save the car.

The weird thing is that I don't think the car is bottoming out and I am skipping all over the place. It almost feels like I need to slow the steering down because a very minor input on my part makes the car wander like crazy.

Also, I did notice my downforce setting were set all the way high. Does anyone think this could be a reason? I don't remember messing with downforce that much. I tired lowering it a bit front and rear and still had the same results.

It's just weird, I can drive well on any track with this car except Sarthe.

BTW, I am using the US version of GT4.
 
larrymags
...

It's just weird, I can drive well on any track with this car except Sarthe.

BTW, I am using the US version of GT4.
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Guy goes to the doctor and says, "Doc, it hurts when I do this."

Doctor says, "Then don't do that." :lol:

Seriously though, I'm not having this problem with mine so here are some random thoughts:

How many miles you have on this car? Does it need a refresh? Maybe the first place a refresh need shows up is the high speed stuff? Dunno for sure, the only cars I have that I've used that option on are the Blackies and it sure seemed to make a difference on their handling. Maybe you've driven it enough to need one???

Does the car wander on other undulating tracks like Nurburgring or El Capitan?

If the back is heavy like and wanting to come around like a Yellowbird, then maybe try stiffer rears like you would tune a RR car??? Does it feel heavy from the rear? You know, does it try to come around on you when you go through like the short left/rights just before the start finish line? Try ditching the turbo once with the same setup and see if you can control it.

Try no toe front or rear... For this track I don't run any toe.

I'm running 20 over default on the ride height- should've looked for you cause I don't remember the actual setting.

I have a hard time believing it is a downforce thing. I am running full downforce and don't have an issue.

It would be productive to see how you are actually set up and what you are running for tires/turbo/etc. Otherwise it is kind of a shot in the dark. I would be happy to set mine up exactly the same and see if I can duplicate your problem.

phattboy
 
Tried the Bimmer again on Sarth, and I think I see what you mean. I would describe it as "unforgiving" when you get a wheel even the slightest bit off the pavement on the back side of the track

I mean, you just touch the dirt, or even the paint stripe lining the road, and you're sideways or backwards in the dirt at 220. Other cars don't act like that.

The all-effed-up Minolta Toyota, to take the most extreme example, can be driven through the grass, over the dirt, over the rumble strips, and along the paint stripes at 235 without even noticing that its no longer on paved road.

The Pescarolos are pretty much like that, too, but not to the ridiculous extent the 88C-V is.

So I guess I'm actually seeing what you are. When I tested it before I was sort of taking it easy and staying on the road. Push it a bit, and make a tiny mistake, and you're up against the wall, facing backwards.
 
Zardoz
So I guess I'm actually seeing what you are. When I tested it before I was sort of taking it easy and staying on the road. Push it a bit, and make a tiny mistake, and you're up against the wall, facing backwards.
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I'm experiencing exactly this plus the wandering effect.

phatboy - As far as settings, well I've played with the settings so much I don't know what to post anymore. I've since gone back to completely stock settings for suspension, etc.

I was going to do more testing again but then I got the Pescarolos. They don't have the outright speed but I am loving the stability because I can go deeper into the corner than the other cars after drafting them like crazy down the Mulsanne.

Oh and I am running this course without the turbo. I'll do some testing again tonight and I'll check on the rigidity refresh - that's a good idea. I'll post what I beleieve to be the best settings I have.
 
Zardoz
Tried the Bimmer again on Sarth, and I think I see what you mean. I would describe it as "unforgiving" when you get a wheel even the slightest bit off the pavement on the back side of the track

I mean, you just touch the dirt, or even the paint stripe lining the road, and you're sideways or backwards in the dirt at 220. Other cars don't act like that.

The all-effed-up Minolta Toyota, to take the most extreme example, can be driven through the grass, over the dirt, over the rumble strips, and along the paint stripes at 235 without even noticing that its no longer on paved road.

The Pescarolos are pretty much like that, too, but not to the ridiculous extent the 88C-V is.

So I guess I'm actually seeing what you are. When I tested it before I was sort of taking it easy and staying on the road. Push it a bit, and make a tiny mistake, and you're up against the wall, facing backwards.
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I may have been misunderstanding the problem here a bit as well if this is it. I will do some more runs tonight and look for this. 👍

The problem I am having is the more runs I make, the better I get at holding the line :D Might actually get pretty proficient at Sarthe. I know after last night's testing, without a turbo I'm like smoking my b-spec driver's best time with a turbo by over 10 seconds and my b-spec driver is pretty good. 👍

EDIT: I agree that "out of the box" the Peskys and the Minolta definitely require less tuning attention. I would also add that if you go drive the other BMW McJokehype F1 at Sarthe, this one seems like a breeze to tune and drive.

phattboy
 
phattboy
...without a turbo...
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Try it maxed out. That's when things get hairy on the back side of Sarthe.


phattboy
...I would also add that if you go drive the other BMW McJokehype F1 at Sarthe, this one seems like a breeze to tune and drive...
Click to expand...

Tell me about it. I can't keep it on the road, and even B-Spec Bob can't do it at anything over "3".


.
 
Okay... I ran several more laps on Sarthe I tonight with the BMW... with and without the turbo

Here is the setup I'm using:

Tires R3/R2

Brakes 7/8 (don't ask me why... just cause that is where they were from a previous race I guess)

SR 12.0/15.0
RH 60/65
Bound 3/3
Rebound 7/7
Camber 2.5/1.5
Toe 1/-1 (apparently lied earlier about no toe... I was confusing Bentley I think)
Stab 6/6

Tranny Final 3.5 Auto at 19

LSD standard 10/40/20

DF full
Weight 0/0

Stiffener and refresher purchased.

I did experience a little wander on the back straight... have always atributed that to road crown as I see that with other cars though. Purposely ran over a few curbs/rumble strips with not to much problem as long as I stayed in it. On the other hand, drop off the edge and you get dizzy by the time the smoke clears... Was able to pull it back out a couple of times but only when I didn't over-react and boy you really have to feather it.

It is no Minolta but I'm not really thinking I felt anything way out of the ordinary using a DS2. Not overly fast but, with the turbo running laps consistently around 3'15 to 3'20 and seeing as high as 240 on the front straight.

Not sure what else to say... I like the way it feels comparatively. 👍

Just watched "Rolf" crank out a 3'18 set on 5 but averages around the 3'20.

EDIT: I would add that without the turbo this car is sweet for my driving style and I don't think the turbo gains it that much more except down the straights with this tranny set. Again, not the fastest I've seen folks do but easily much more consistent times without the turbo at 3'19 to 3'21. In race easier on tires too.

phattboy
 
Thanks phatboy.

I'll probably try your settings. I blanked out all of my settings to default to try again. I previously had set the car very low to compete the Infineon Endurance which I only won by a lap over the Sauber. Since I was having so much trouble at La Sarthe I blanked my setting to default to try again but then I just got frustrated.

This car is awesome in my opinion except at La Sarthe.

It's interesting though that you have a lower ride height than I ever dared to go.... maybe this is why? Also your shocks are set softer.

And a -1 toe in the rear? Am I reading that right? Doesn't that point your tires out?

Thanks to everyone for the replies and insight though.

"BMW McJokeHype F1"? Hahahahaha! I was kinda of disappointed in that car too. Still one of my faves though. They should have put the 1995 McLarens in the game.
 
larrymags
Thanks phatboy.

...
And a -1 toe in the rear? Am I reading that right? Doesn't that point your tires out?...
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No problem bud 👍 I just hope it helps. Actually though, this little exercise has been really interesting and fun for me! I finished the game some time ago and have been just running another one trying to do b-spec this time (the hard way). Kinda been looking for something to play around with. Besides, all this practice helped me get a gold that I have been missing on my license :D

Yep... you are reading it right on the toe. For some reason or another with my DS2 and slow reactions (age) I am finding I really like that -1 toe in the rear on a lot of cars... That and stretching out the gears. Seems like I can be on the brakes less and cruising corners with better momentum. I have less acceleration but better momentum. It's an age thing :lol:

phattboy
 
I feel like an idiot. I was playing around with the BMW LMR and went into the tune shop to check something and it was staring me in the face:

RIGIDITY REFRESHER

The car only has 1,900 miles on it though. Does it really take that little miles to need a refresher?

Needless to say that the car was much better after that. Easier to keep on the road but still a bit unforgiving if you put a foot off. It was still correctable when I lost the car a bit on the rumble strips or a patch of grass or sand. I did a few laps at Sarthe and was satisfied again with the car.

I'll try playing with the settings again this weekend and hopefully my changes will be better utilized this time.

Can't believe you finished the game already phatboy. I'm only at 25%.
 

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