Brakes in GT4.

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KSaiyu

KSaiyu

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Has anyone noticed that the effects of braking distance from adjusting the brake balance controller are more noticible than in GT3? I've just been doing some tests with different cars, and they all react differently to the adjustments.

I tested them all on auto transmission, 0-1000 and then brake fully at 1000 and see where they stop.

Audi A3 - when I braked on default (Front 3/Rear 3) it stopped right on a line in between 1100 and 1200. Set to 1/1 it went over the line while still slowing down in 2nd gear. Set to 24/24 (max) and it stopped in the same place as on default.

Mercedes SLR (heavily modified) - braked on default and stopped close to 1200. Set to 1/1 and took a little longer to stop, but was hardly noticible. Set to 24/24 however, and you really saw a difference - you could see the anti lock working! The car kept locking, then unlocking all the way, consequently stopping much, much further away from the previous. You had to set it to 10 at the most for the car to stop without the visible jerking from the ABS.

Black R92CP - braked on default and it stopped between 1100 and 1200. Set to 1/1 and the effect was like the SLR, barely any difference. Set to 24/24 and the effect was again like the SLR, just not as prominent - the anti lock could be heard. Had to set it down to around 7 for the effect to completly go.

So it seems that the more powerful the car is, the lower you want to set your brake balance. Also, changing the rear value didn't have a major effect in the tests - the front value makes changes much more noticible. For example I set the SLR to 10/24 and it stopped close to the 10/10 setting as above, but obviously with a tendency to oversteer on corner entry.

Hope this was useful for anyone tuning there brake balances in GT4 ;)
 
The brakes are definately more sensative. especually (like you said) on higher powered cars (mostly race cars). No more jacking every car up to 24/24 or 12/24 to help with oversteer. The first will put you into a four wheel slide and the later will send you spinning...both put you in the grass quickly.

In fact all of the tune settings are more touchy. If you have a group of settings you liked for a given car in GT3 and try them in GT4 on the same car you will be very surprised. You'll end up starting from scratch retuning the car.
 
brake balance shouldn't be set equally like that, In the case of many cars, the front bias should be set slightly (not much) higher than than the rear, to take advantage of the extra weight shift to the front when under braking. MR cars don't take as much advantage of this and should be set roughly evenly.
When you set the levels too high the antilock has a harder time compensating for the brakes that are trying to lock the tires up on every pulse, so the braking distance is longer.

take your default bias, and set the front to a heavier setting by about 20 percent of the rear. Then increase both by one point each time you test it. When either front or back wheels starts to lock up take those brakes back a notch and increase the other.
Do this until BOTH wheels start to lock up. Then take both back one notch and you have found your most efficient braking settings.
Remember, TOO strong a brake setting is just as bad as not enough.........
Play around a bit. Your driving style will influence your settings too.
 
S31Ender
brake balance shouldn't be set equally like that, In the case of many cars, the front bias should be set slightly (not much) higher than than the rear, to take advantage of the extra weight shift to the front when under braking. MR cars don't take as much advantage of this and should be set roughly evenly.
When you set the levels too high the antilock has a harder time compensating for the brakes that are trying to lock the tires up on every pulse, so the braking distance is longer.

take your default bias, and set the front to a heavier setting by about 20 percent of the rear. Then increase both by one point each time you test it. When either front or back wheels starts to lock up take those brakes back a notch and increase the other.
Do this until BOTH wheels start to lock up. Then take both back one notch and you have found your most efficient braking settings.
Remember, TOO strong a brake setting is just as bad as not enough.........
Play around a bit. Your driving style will influence your settings too.
Click to expand...

What works in the real world, setting-wise, rarely worked in GT3.. :)

Good advice though. it will help with GT4.
 
I've been racing both on the circuits and in rally (non-professional) for a while now. You're right, what works in the real world rarely worked in gt3. I've been noticing the physics involved in gt4 and I think some elements can be incorporated now.
 
S31Ender
brake balance shouldn't be set equally like that, In the case of many cars, the front bias should be set slightly (not much) higher than than the rear, to take advantage of the extra weight shift to the front when under braking. MR cars don't take as much advantage of this and should be set roughly evenly.
When you set the levels too high the antilock has a harder time compensating for the brakes that are trying to lock the tires up on every pulse, so the braking distance is longer.

take your default bias, and set the front to a heavier setting by about 20 percent of the rear. Then increase both by one point each time you test it. When either front or back wheels starts to lock up take those brakes back a notch and increase the other.
Do this until BOTH wheels start to lock up. Then take both back one notch and you have found your most efficient braking settings.
Remember, TOO strong a brake setting is just as bad as not enough.........
Play around a bit. Your driving style will influence your settings too.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice, I'll use that on neutral/slightly oversteering cars :)
 
Is there any brake glow in GT4? And if there is, is it as easy to make as in gt3 (ie brake first corner and they are already on fire?
 
So the back brakes on a rear drive cars should be set higher than the front? And what about a AWD car? Should the brake level be equal and should the front brakes on FWD cars be higher than the back brakes? In gt3, I set the front and back to equal levels, I wont do that anymore :) So locking the brakes is very easy now? In a gt4 vid I saw recently, a race car, I believe the r89c was on the le mans straight going like 420kmh and at the end of the straight, the car braked hard and the wheels didn't lock.
 
cobragt
So the back brakes on a rear drive cars should be set higher than the front? And what about a AWD car? Should the brake level be equal and should the front brakes on FWD cars be higher than the back brakes?
Click to expand...

Brake balance has nothing to do with the drive wheels itself, its the weight distribution that matters. If your weight distro is 60/40, then there’s no point in putting brake bias on the back since you’ll nose dive, which shift even more weight to the front & lessens the effect of the braking on the rear wheels. That would be true for most FF/4WD cars. Now, for cars with mid/rear engine layout, you’d assume that the weight is mostly in the back, so you don’t put as much brake bias on the front in theory, even though they’ll still nose dive. How much you nose dive, that’s up to your suspension, so ... you’ll just have to experiment.
 
how about cars that doesn't have ABS, or all of the cars in this game have ABS

actually i can feel the tires lock during hard brake, but when i watch the reply, i dont' see it. is it that you can feel, but not really lock up the wheels?
 
Hiya! :D :O :lol: Meow! (='.'=)

Thanks for the time and effort to bring this to our attention! :O In GT3, I never mess with the braking system because it doesnt seem to feel different to me. Now that you have mention it on GT4, I will try to play around with it to my liking when I get it! :O
 
You have to remember that the brake bias numbers are only relative to the amount of brake torque. Most cars have larger brakes (bigger diameter/more calipers) at the front, which would have an effect on your brake bias vs actual brake torque.

So you could have a rearward bias, but the front brakes will still apply more torque. ;)
 
that's why you must set up each car with careful testing.
One setup will not work for all cars. You must set EACH car up on it's own.
 
yeti
It's probably lumped in with TCS I suspect... but not sure as I don't own the game.

C.
Click to expand...
I certainly hope not. Trying to find the braking threshold with a normal hand controller is impossible. At the same time, getting the tail out of the M3 at the nurburgring is pure heaven. My fastest lap time is a 9:08 with absolutely CRAP braking so far...
 
No no, there is no lockup as in you have to threshold brake, only that if it's set too strong you can feel the ABS working and the wheels keeps locking, unlocking, locking while under braking. You don't see the wheels lock up in the replay since all the cars have ABS. Even under 24/24 settings the quickest way to stop in a straight line is to just hold down square fully.
 

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