Braking Points

  • Thread starter TumbleDry
  • 27 comments
  • 3,171 views
69
Belgium
Belgium
Just curious as to how you guys approach selecting proper braking points when racing without a driving line. I typically just eyeball the distance to the apex/clipping point on approach and maybe check distance markers (if available) if it is a high speed corner. While this works fine in slower cars/karts, I have real trouble when jumping up to faster cars such as the Ferrari F1's.

Hoping some other drivers will share their braking techniques when racing high powered cars.
 
With the driving line turned off, I usually use a visual cue to brake, such as a detail on the track or a shadow. If that doesn't help, I brake around half a second after the red flashy gear number in the interface activates as I approach a corner.
 
I really don't know what I go by I just brake when I think I need to and it seem's to work out (I've never thought about it before :/). It could be the flashing light in my peripheral vision though but I know I don't pick out brake point's on the track.
 
I tend to use the Gear Recommendation as a breaking point myself, but after a while, I can start using the engine noise as a good estimation, and from there I can start ballparking it by estimated distance. The key point is that I'm never brakes-to-the-floor stopping if I can help it, even with ABS 1, so I have that give in how much I break depending on whether I've over- or under-estimated on a given entrance.
 
Pick up land marks around the track and sometimes with many consecutive braking points just timing it. Using shadows as markers is a bit of a bad habit. Doesn't really matter on tracks without dynamic time, but still it would be a better habit to use something unchanging.
 
I used to and still do use the flashing marker on the HUD, but as i've progressed and learned the tracks, i've found myself more and more braking later after it started flashing until such time i'm using bridges, painted lines and even curbs as my reference.

I find the marker is good off line, but tends to be a litte out of sorts when racing against real people online who have experiance and guts to brake ever so later, so i tend to watch them fo a few laps and see how i get on.
 
I generally no longer consciously think about it, it's kind of become instinctive. (Except when late braking, of course.)
 
With the driving line turned off, I usually use a visual cue to brake, such as a detail on the track or a shadow. If that doesn't help, I brake around half a second after the red flashy gear number in the interface activates as I approach a corner.

If looking at shadows for braking points, don't pull a Jean Alesi who did it at Monza once too, not realising shadows change as time progresses and flew off the track.:P So, for the changing time tracks don't look at shadows, hehe.💡

I just focus on markers along the track, like curbs, buildings, the markers saying how far away the corner is, etc.:)
 
Just curious as to how you guys approach selecting proper braking points when racing without a driving line. I typically just eyeball the distance to the apex/clipping point on approach and maybe check distance markers (if available) if it is a high speed corner. While this works fine in slower cars/karts, I have real trouble when jumping up to faster cars such as the Ferrari F1's.

Hoping some other drivers will share their braking techniques when racing high powered cars.

I drive with ABS off so I tend to brake much later than others. If you can control the brakes at the point of lock-up, you will have a significantly shorter braking distance. It's also best to follow the racing line because you can enter the corner a little faster than if you stayed on the inside of the track all the time for example.

The racing line is "Out-In-Out", and you don't really need the racing line for this. Just remember to stay on the outside of the track following up to a corner and go as close to the inner apex/wall as you dare and slowly smooth out again. If you still are having trouble with braking points, then I think you just have to brake earlier. Simple as that.
 
TumbleDry, most of the tracks have markers (or meter boards) on the edge of the track or on the railings, or walls (depending) just before most of the critical corners giving you distance measurements from that corner ("100" and "200" which I think is in meters), usually it is best to apply brakes at the 200m mark if you are at highest speed/full throttle for most cars........ie.good slow and fast cars (reason being "good" fast cars usually have better brakes so the stopping distance may be the same as a slower "good" car......obviously you consider the weight of ther cars to adjust your braking distances)
 
TumbleDry, most of the tracks have markers (or meter boards) on the edge of the track or on the railings, or walls (depending) just before most of the critical corners giving you distance measurements from that corner ("100" and "200" which I think is in meters), usually it is best to apply brakes at the 200m mark if you are at highest speed/full throttle for most cars........ie.good slow and fast cars (reason being "good" fast cars usually have better brakes so the stopping distance may be the same as a slower "good" car......obviously you consider the weight of ther cars to adjust your braking distances)

+1 Totally agree. It depends on what car you're driving, what tyres it has (the more grip your tyres have, shorter your braking distance is), and how heavy it is. The heavier your car is, the more momentum it has, making it bad for short braking distances.
 
Pick up land marks around the track and sometimes with many consecutive braking points just timing it. Using shadows as markers is a bit of a bad habit. Doesn't really matter on tracks without dynamic time, but still it would be a better habit to use something unchanging.

+1 👍

With cars I don't have a lot of experience with I might take a cue from the flashing shift light. After a while with experience with a car and track you start to use visual cues like others have said. On street courses you can find lots of crosswalks or buildings, etc to use. On race tracks there might be less but you can still find markers. Sometimes you have to change them when using faster cars. I know that in slower cars I can wait until I see the wall at top of the hill at Monaco (Cote d'Azur) but in faster cars I have to look for something else. Also, be careful when drafting someone. You will be going faster and will have less aero drag (even though the effect of drag seems weak in GT5) so you will have to brake earlier. On some tracks that I have a lot of experience on and with cars that I use a lot I can just use TLAR: "That Looks About Right".

Best thing to do is pay attention to the markers available and start to notice which ones look good as markers for braking points that you are comfortable with.
 
I usually play with no aids and hud turned off so I go by the feel, but mostly on my own markers on the track. Saying that, I have a bit of a problem when im driving on a track im not familiar with. Just like last night, joined a room where we raced at SPA. It was my first time on the track, so it took me about 3 laps to get adjusted.

So personal markers and the feel of your car.
 
TumbleDry, most of the tracks have markers (or meter boards) on the edge of the track or on the railings, or walls (depending) just before most of the critical corners giving you distance measurements from that corner ("100" and "200" which I think is in meters), usually it is best to apply brakes at the 200m mark if you are at highest speed/full throttle for most cars........ie.good slow and fast cars (reason being "good" fast cars usually have better brakes so the stopping distance may be the same as a slower "good" car......obviously you consider the weight of ther cars to adjust your braking distances)

Also +1

I use the distance markers to brake on the mulsanne straight in La Sarthe.

However, I mostly use visual markers/shadows. Other times I just "feel" when I need to brake. Using these techniques requires you to become intimate with the track. This is especially important on the Nurburgring where there are no distance markers.
 
Trial and error mate.
There are too many variables to have one braking point for a specific corner if you drive cars with a wide range of speed and grip.
There is also the factor of reaction times and the fact that you never quite manage to brake at the same spot every lap.

I have a set reference point for most of the hard braking zones. Call it a median braking point.
Some cars will need more stopping range, others less.
You can make good guesses most of the time.
I usually start off somewhere a little before the point i think is the limit and use two or three laps to calibrate my braking point according to the car.

In a race however, my braking point will depend on the situation.
For example: If i'm on the outside, being attacked, i will brake early and try a switchback.

So, trial and error.
It works on GT5 :)
 
Also +1

I use the distance markers to brake on the mulsanne straight in La Sarthe.

However, I mostly use visual markers/shadows. Other times I just "feel" when I need to brake. Using these techniques requires you to become intimate with the track. This is especially important on the Nurburgring where there are no distance markers.

There aren't many distance markers on the Nordschleife, but there are lots and lots and lots of curbs, and many are very very useful for marking braking and turning points.
 
Trial and error mate.
There are too many variables to have one braking point for a specific corner if you drive cars with a wide range of speed and grip.
There is also the factor of reaction times and the fact that you never quite manage to brake at the same spot every lap.

I have a set reference point for most of the hard braking zones. Call it a median braking point.
Some cars will need more stopping range, others less.
You can make good guesses most of the time.
I usually start off somewhere a little before the point i think is the limit and use two or three laps to calibrate my braking point according to the car.

In a race however, my braking point will depend on the situation.
For example: If i'm on the outside, being attacked, i will brake early and try a switchback.

So, trial and error.
It works on GT5 :)

Thanks for all the responses. Interesting point regarding setting a median braking point, I never thought if it in that way. Judging from many of the responses it looks like I need to be a little more patient and spend more time learning tracks.
 
My only tip I can give you is, if you race online, don't use the foam/cardboard track makers.
Like the ones a nurburgring GP/f. They will soon or later get taken out by a off-track car.
I like to use trees and marks on the track.
Example, a tree pass by out of view, hard on the brakes.
Eventual you will stop thinking about it.
 
The red flashing gear indicator!!! Thats what its there for. Its a little conservative but a great baseline.

I could never drive a new course generator track without it.
 
I hope all of you using the red indicator don't mind getting hit from behind from those of us driving at the limit. It's cool though, my son still cheats with it and this is the only game in our library I beat him at consistently. Hope he never figures it out.
True Story: He was owning me at the ring until I did the 4 hour Endurance and learned the track a little. Now I got him. Using that thing out of my periphial always distracts from my ability to look out ahead and spot my line or avoid hitting someone. There ought to be an indicator free mode too. It's definitely kind of a noob feature.
 
iridegravity
I hope all of you using the red indicator don't mind getting hit from behind from those of us driving at the limit. It's cool though, my son still cheats with it and this is the only game in our library I beat him at consistently. Hope he never figures it out.
True Story: He was owning me at the ring until I did the 4 hour Endurance and learned the track a little. Now I got him. Using that thing out of my periphial always distracts from my ability to look out ahead and spot my line or avoid hitting someone. There ought to be an indicator free mode too. It's definitely kind of a noob feature.

Just turn off the hud all together. Its much a different experience. Then with cockpit view.. oh damn!

Oh also, its your responsibility to avoid any collisions, even if that will cost you the race.
 
Memorizing the track by practice is how the pro's do it.......if u drive on a track long enough.....u'll instinctively learn all the braking points. i know it easier said than done.....but thats how i go about it anyway ^^ . but otherwise i simply brake when the gear indicator flashes xP
 
Just turn off the hud all together. Its much a different experience. Then with cockpit view.. oh damn!

Oh also, its your responsibility to avoid any collisions, even if that will cost you the race.

i agree with you there......collisions are no good
to general: don't draft anybody into a corner if ur unsure when to start braking or when to get out of the slipstream. (my bro does it all the time and sends us both outta the track -_- grrrr)
 
Back