The trick to mastering the C4 is overcoming the massive amounts of torque that spin those rubber thingies you humans call tires. I found that three things help this scenario out: Suspension, Suspension and . . . ummm . . .oh yeah, suspension.
I read this thread and was immediately attracted to it because I love drifting the GS Corvette so much. One thing that I have found out in my time drifting this car is that the stock suspension setup is very well balanced for taking it out. Well, as long as you keep the HP stock as well. Once you start beefing up the power you need to match it with an equally balanced suspension setup.
Try this, and tell me how you like it
First completely upgrade your brakes and suspension.
Now:
Bump up the spring rate in the front to 15.3
Take the rear ALL the way up to 17.2
What this does is makes it so that you have slightly less "Pitch" in the rear than you do in the front, this will eliminate the problem of the rear-end "kicking" on you unexpectedly.
My favorite, RIDE HEIGHT!!!
Front, drop it down completely and then take it up two clicks.
I'm unsure what it is at the time because I'm only going off of memory, my PS2 is WAAAAYYYYY overthere.
After doing that, take the rear and go 7mm above that.
This will kick the rear end up a little higher than your front end, reducing regidity in the rear making for those excellently smooth entries into your favorite turns on Complex String.
Now we come to the sensitive area, DAMPERING.
Personally, I don't like the word Damper because it's like combining Diaper and Pamper and actually having it mean the same thing. A cushen to support your a$$ incase you make a boo boo.
So do this
Bound-6 front 8 rear. Rebound 7 front 6 rear.
As you can tell this will make the front easier to push down than the rear making the rear end stiff and rigid for when you wanna ride that last LONG CURVE on Complex String. Also what this does is balance that "kick" to make it so that it's all a smooth stiffness as your shocks . . . well . . .bound and rebound.
Toe and Camber. HAHAHAHAHAHA!
Well, I say you straighten out the back wheels which is usually done by setting the back wheel to the default level.
As far as the front, I would NORMALLY keep it stock as well, but if you wanna look TOTALLY D1 with it, you can increase the camber up to 4, but try to resist the urge to surpass this level. I went from 4 to 5 and noticed that when I went to correct, the grip that the camber setting of 5 put on the front wheels was enough to spin me back in the other direction if I wasn't careful.
A camber setting of 4 in the front makes it an almost perfect balance for doing marginal to moderate countersteer, and makes it so that when you do have to countersteer completely, otherwise known as Opposite Lock, your car will respond as you want it to.
A toe setting of -.5 front and .5 rear pretty much zero's out the toe, so it's kind of irrelavent to do this, right? Nope, Go to Right-Hand-Row on Complex String and leave your toe at 0 and 0, go back and forth as many times as necessary to get the feel of it. NOW! Go back to your settings and change the toe to what I suggested, OH MY FRIGGEN LORD OF THE RINGS! It's a little more responsive isn't it. And in the GRAND SCHEME of things, it's all about responsiveness while drifting ANYWAY! DON'T LET ANYONE TELL YOU OTHERWISE
STABILIZERS
My babies. I love these little marvels of automotive science. They make your car do the funniest things when set to there extremes. But anyhow, I digress . . . Set the stabilizer in the front to 4 and the rear to 6.
It's not too hard to figure out what that does. . . .
Basically, your car will NOT want to sit down or transfer weight in the rear, but it WILL want to do it in the front. The result. A smooth concubine of grace and delicacy that even SilviaDrifter would have to look at and say . . . "Damn, that's a smooth concubine of grace and delicacy."
Now get out there and enjoy yo self.
THAT'S MY TIME.
I'M OUT!!!
