And the son of a former drag racer steps in, albeit it was a muscle car, but the principles remain the same.
A. Tire pressure is never solved by simply setting low, every car, suspension, and tire has an optimal setting, usually between 12-24 psi (most common is 15-20)
B. the rear shock/springs are specially designed, to provide very little resistance to compressing (going down), and an extremely high resistance to decompressing (going up). this way not only is your weight transfer maximized, by softness in compression, but momentum doesnt lose your precious weight transfer when you shift.
C. The front suspension is the exact opposite as the front, to a T. And for all the same reasons.
D. Your optimal ride height will depend, but you'll want to start at equal, or with the rear sitting .5 - 1 inch lower than front, and drop it from there.
E. Swaybar ridgity, assuming you have one, is something you'll need to play with. A small one is a good idea, as it will help ensure both rear tires get equal weight, and therefore equal traction. Just make sure it's not to big, or stiff, so you don't get axle hop, or just firm your suspension to much.
F. Camber on rear should definetly be zero. front could be set to to an angle, but with the skinny tiny tires used, you'll want to make sure you can still turn a little.
G. Chassis twisting will happen, you can't stop it, other than beefing it up, but I doubt that's in the game. If it is, the stiffer, the better.
Hope this helps, if you need clarification on any of it, let me know.
One thing you do want is to have the rear tires equally loaded, the torque from the motor going to the differential is going to transfer load from one of the rear tires to the other. So you might want to set up the suspension so that the tires are unequally loaded at rest, that way when you get on the gas they are closer to equal. 
