Can't race from lobbies anymore period. Start bug!

  • Thread starter Wagz
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So I know this has been discussed countless times. Ive read everything I can about it and it seems this has been going on with GT with previous versions and continuing on still. There is apparently no fix otherwise PD would have addressed it.

When I first started racing in lobbies a couple of months ago it happend a few times, wouldn't start or would spin in circles into the walls. Recently, in the past week I haven't been able to start at all, never, happens everytime. It will happen on a grid where everyone can see one another also.

Nothing has changed with my connection or network. I am connected thru wifi and have good signal strength. I have several roomates who stream netflix but it didn't happen before. I just tried it with nobody else home so nobody streaming. same thing.

Is there anything I can do. If I plug directly into the modem people wouldn't be able to stream. I would have to run a ridiculously long ethernet cable to go directly into the router. Would that even help?

I'm frustrated beyond belief, sick of daily races where you just deal with rammers on every turn.

Help
 
So I know this has been discussed countless times. Ive read everything I can about it and it seems this has been going on with GT with previous versions and continuing on still. There is apparently no fix otherwise PD would have addressed it.

When I first started racing in lobbies a couple of months ago it happend a few times, wouldn't start or would spin in circles into the walls. Recently, in the past week I haven't been able to start at all, never, happens everytime. It will happen on a grid where everyone can see one another also.

Nothing has changed with my connection or network. I am connected thru wifi and have good signal strength. I have several roomates who stream netflix but it didn't happen before. I just tried it with nobody else home so nobody streaming. same thing.

Is there anything I can do. If I plug directly into the modem people wouldn't be able to stream. I would have to run a ridiculously long ethernet cable to go directly into the router. Would that even help?

I'm frustrated beyond belief, sick of daily races where you just deal with rammers on every turn.

Help

Wired to router is definitely better than wifi.

My router is downstairs but i have a cable coming to my room to an access point router which has another cable to my ps4. Still way better than wifi.

But i cant say if it will fix your issue for sure or not.
 
Some people suggested that you have to have a static public IP adress, in order for it to work better. I've haven't tried it yet, but apparently it does help. Also, being connected via cable should also help a bit.

But what I always do you when a join a lobby, is that I go into watch mode and look if there's anything unusual with the cars of other drivers. If I see for example car flying in the air or just a car being stuck on the track, or moving in some weird way, it means you are getting a start bug. You can prevent this 90% of time of just rejoining.

Usually it looks like this:

Car flying
PS_Messages_20200311_012359.jpg


Car being either stuck, or moving very slowly in one direction, while showing half throttle.
PS_Messages_20200311_012356.jpg


Edit: there are some cases when you don't have to see anything unusual, but it still happens. However, that is rare.
 
static public IP adress
Static IP address, yes. Static public IP address? I'm not even sure how you'd achieve that.

@Wagz - do as much of this as you can:

So GT Sport - like GT6 and GT5, and GT5P - is a bit sensitive to network environments, and a connection that's fine one day (or hour) might be ropey the next. There's an "easy" way to optimise your own network environment and make it as stable and friendly as possible.

Step 1 - Wire it in
A wired connection is innately more stable (and marginally broader and more responsive) than a wireless one.

Step 2 - Static IP address
This is a little more complicated and requires knowing a very small amount about your home network.

In essence, your router (the thing that plugs into the outside world) has a small amount of addresses (called IP addresses) that it assigns to the devices connecting to it. It receives information from the outside world, works out which device it has to go to and sends it there. Your device also sends information to it, which the router translates to show which device it has come from, and sends it out. This is a function known as "Network Address Translation" (NAT). Now you know what "NAT Type" means - the type of NAT currently used. NAT Type 2 is best and NAT Type 3 is the worst, for really boring reasons. If you have NAT Type 3 you will absolutely need to do the rest of this list.

If left to its own devices (it probably would), the router will assign IP addresses automatically. This means that every time a device is turned on, the router gives it a number. This is usually sequential, but not always, and known as DHCP (Dynamic Host Configuration Protocol). If you have lots of devices connected at once, this can sometimes cause issues as a device "wants" the IP address another one is using. It's usually only a hiccup, but it can be bad if you're doing 140mph when it hiccups because your kid is checking their phone...

For stability purposes it's better to assign each and every device in your house its own, permanent IP address. First you'll need to find out what IP addresses your router uses. Usually, this will be 192.168.0.[any number from 2-255], with the router itself as 192.168.0.1, but not always*. Best way to check is to look at the router's own IP address, printed on the back of it. That's the address you'd type into your browser to log into your router's control panel. Once you've found out, pick a number from 2-255...

Then, on the PS4 go to:
Settings (second button from the right hand side)
-> Network
-> Set Up Internet Connection
If you've wired it in as above, pick "use a LAN cable". If not, bad you, pick WiFi.

On the next screen pick "Custom", and then "Manual". Now you need to enter the IP address you've chosen, along with some other... kookier information.

For your IP address enter the number you picked. "Subnet Mask" is even more almost always going to be 255.255.255.0. "Default Gateway" is your router's address. The DNS (Domain Name Server; the servers that change the IP addresses of locations into names, like gtplanet.net) settings are up to you; your ISP has its DNS and these will likely be in the router's control panel under DNS. It's easier to use the free DNS at OpenDNS. These are "208.67.220.220" and "208.67.222.222".

As a random example, the screen should now look something like this:
IP Address - 192.168.0.4
Subnet Mask - 255.255.255.0
Default Gateway - 192.168.0.1
Primary DNS - 208.67.220.220
Secondary DNS - 208.67.222.222

On the next screens hit Automatic, Do Not Use and Test. It'll now do a network test. If you have set ANYTHING wrong, it will fail at the "Obtain IP address" or "Internet Connection" stage. Double check your numbers...

Lastly, it's best to do exactly the same thing in your router, and it's required for the next step. Routers vary wildly in where to find this function, but you should have your own instruction manual for it... It's likely to be under an advanced settings menu, labelled as IP addresses or network configuration or something similar. All you need to do is find your console (this can be tricky, as it may be listed by its MAC address; you can find your console's MAC address in its Settings menu somewhere. I forget where. It's a set of six pairs of hexadecimal numbers, from 00-FF, separated by colons), click on that and enter the IP address you picked for it.

If you think this is geeky, I've done it for every device in my house, numbering 25 or so now. And the consoles, laptops, mobiles and computers are separated into dedicated IP blocs, so when we get a new one it's easy to remember what the next number should be. NEEEEEEEEEEEEEERD!

Step 3 - DMZ
So, basically, devices need to send information out through "ports". This is stupendously difficult to explain - you and I might think that a "port" is what you plug a cable into, but it's not. Well, not in this sense - it's a networking thing. Routers have built-in protective "firewalls" that block certain ports under certain conditions. This is great - it helps prevent your computer from being compromised, or sending out information when it has been - but when a console has its ports blocked, you can't game.

Routers also have a place outside of their normal firewall called the DMZ - which, yes, is the Demilitarised Zone. This is a connection where the firewall doesn't exist, so there's no defences. As there's no defences, there's no ports blocked. This is great news for gaming.

Once you've assigned the static IP address to the PS4 both in the console and in the router, you'll want to find your router's DMZ function. Again, this varies wildly, but is often just labelled as "DMZ". It may be under a Firewall menu or similar. Again, consult your manual. You'll need to then assign the console's IP address (or some routers allow you to assign the device, if you can remember its MAC Address, or you gave it a name) to the DMZ.

You can only assign a single device or IP to a DMZ, and your console is the safest thing to put there.

Once you've done all this, the chances are that you won't see any immediate differences in the network test. You might have a slightly lower ping, or a slightly higher bandwidth, but probably won't. But what you will have is the absolute ideal conditions for your console for online gaming, and the only disconnects that will affect you should be when everyone gets booted from a lobby. Or if your internet connection itself falls over, or there's a power cut.

It won't cure low bandwidth, high ping connections, but it will make it more stable and it's everything you can do to make it work. Unless your ISP throttles gaming traffic, which some do, the bastards...


*Mine is NOT the same as this. If yours isn't as well, and you don't know what you're doing, shout at me in PMs and I'll help
It's not as complex as it looks - just take it step by step.
 
This seems overwhelming. If I give my ps4 a dedicated address, do I then have to give every other device it's own address? The other devices are my roommates phones and roku sticks, I don't want to have to bother with that if I don't have to.
 
This seems overwhelming.
It's not - just take it step by step :D

If there's anything you're not sure of, let me know.

If I give my ps4 a dedicated address, do I then have to give every other device it's own address?
It's best to, but not necessary and sometimes not practical. If you don't, it'll - at worst - affect the other people slightly whenever you turn the PS4 on.
 
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I used to get this issue. Took a few steps to sort it, and I've only had it happen one more time.

1. Install powerline kit.
2. Connect powerline kit to PS4, essentially creating a wired connection to the router, despite them being on different floors.
3. Reset PS4 internet connection every couple of days.
4. Delete in game temp files before closing app/turning off PS4 for the day.
 
I'm going to try what famine talked about. I have been exploring options and the powerline would be great until I remembered the upstairs and downstairs have separate electric bills. The router is downstairs, they're on separate lines. Nothing easy about this.
 
@Famine I just moved my PS to my girlfriend's flat for these times to prevent useless travelling to home and stay in house but unfortunately her router doesn't offer any kind of DMZ mode (wth tho). Are there specific ports I can set up for the PS4 separately or should I just try to replace the router with one that is able to do DMZ?

I thought this might be a smarter place to post than creating an own thread for it. I knew there were some ports to active for GT5/GT6 but would like to know if they're the same for GTS?
 
I'm sceptical that these problems are caused by wi-fi, or a non-static IP address, as I had several weeks of not having any broadband, and I was playing via my phone's 4G connection, with my phone acting as a wi-fi hotspot, then a wi-fi range extender connecting to that, my PS4 connecting via wired ethernet to a router, which in turn had a wired connection to the wi-fi range extender. I had no problems at all while using that setup.
 
I did the static IP address method. There are videos online showing exactly what to do. Found one that uses the netgear site so it was identical. Haven't tried the lobbies yet, I am rebooting the modem and router before I get on each time and think that I get a better connection that way. Not sure. I will update on if the static IP helped with the lobby races.
 
I'm currently stuck with wi-fi and it usually works fine.
Lately the signals been going from 4 bars most of the
time, down to 1 for a few seconds, then back to 4 bars
a couple times a lap.

Does that sound like a wi-fi issue or could it be
something to do with the server?
 
I never did connect directly with an Ethernet cable. I really don't think it would help much. I believe the problem is the network connection with the host of the lobby race. I've been having better luck lately, but it still happens.

This what I think helps, but it will still happen:

Unplug your modem and router for a few seconds before you log on to reset them each day.

When in the lobby picking a race you will see the host on the right side of the listing. If the host only has a few bars that are not in green I don't try it. Many time they will be from different countries and their connection is poor. Stay away unless you see strong green bars, or close to it.

Do not pick full races. Most races are 16 max. If their is 10 or more I am hesitant. Whenever I try a race with at least 11 or 12 people it almost happens every time. Join a race with say 4 or 6 and it will continue to grow. Most host will start the race quickly and maybe it only got to say 8 racers. Much better odds of it working.

So, this has been minimizing my issues, hope it helps.
 
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