Clubsport Pedals Throttle Problem

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BODHI85

BODHI85

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Toronto, ON
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bodhisattva_85
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BODHI85
I am experiencing a new problem with my Clubsport Pedals V1, with CSR Elite wheel.

I play mostly Forza and sometimes when I try to go at full throttle, it only reaches to about half throttle (sometimes less or more). When I check the telemetry it's like a glass ceiling has been put in place on the meter. Only when I restart my wheel does it go back to normal. But sure enough the problem will reoccur. I only started experiencing this yesterday.

I did notice that it tends to happen when I do a hard turn on a course.
 
There are normally 2 things that could cause this.

1. The little grub screw under the pedals at the pivot point has come loose. This is a very small set screw. I think it's 2mm or 2.5mm. If that screw is loose the magnet doesn't turn when you press the throttle so the sensor doesn't pick it up.

2. You have a bad hall effect sensor on the throttle pedal.

Number one is easy to fix, just tighten the screw. Number 2 requires you to make a video and contact Fanatec customer support so they can send you a new sensor.

Since you say the problem is intermittent, I'm guessing it's the grub screw. Check that first.
 
Troysloth
There are normally 2 things that could cause this.

1. The little grub screw under the pedals at the pivot point has come loose. This is a very small set screw. I think it's 2mm or 2.5mm. If that screw is loose the magnet doesn't turn when you press the throttle so the sensor doesn't pick it up.

2. You have a bad hall effect sensor on the throttle pedal.

Number one is easy to fix, just tighten the screw. Number 2 requires you to make a video and contact Fanatec customer support so they can send you a new sensor.

Since you say the problem is intermittent, I'm guessing it's the grub screw. Check that first.
Click to expand...

+1

Here are the screws Troy is talking about.

pedals-gb.jpg



Try tightening them, and race. If this did not fix it, it is most likely the sensor.
 
The issue is also confused me for a long time.Now I think it is clear for me. For the throttle pedal and clutch padal are use magnetic induction to measure. So if the magnetic field is disturbed,the value of them will be impacted. I conclude the four causes which will lead such issue as follow: 1) The additonal rotation of the axes rod. For the magnet is installed on one side of this rod,When it is rotated during press pedal,the senser will measure the magnetic field change,and get a value.But if the additional rotation is occured,the measurement of the value will impacted. The addional rotation will occur if the screw(shown by Troysloth & offical web site) not tighten. 2) The rotation of Bar Rod(I don't know the offical name :-)).The Bar Rod I mean is the Rod in the spring. The rotation of this Rod will increase or derease the throttle or clutch throw.If it is occur during usage,it will also cause you can't reach the max or min value. To solve it you must tighten the screw cap near the pedal side to prevent the rod rotation. 3) scrap iron on the magnet This is the most hidden reason I had found. If you have scrap iron on the magnet of the axes rod,and when it has a additional movment during the axes rod rotation. it will also disturb the magnetic field,and make the measurement error. To solve the problem,you need to clear the axes rod to prevent any scrap iron on it.. 4) The senser out of work. I hadn't met such issue.Hope never occur
 
AGP5000
+1

Here are the screws Troy is talking about.

pedals-gb.jpg



Try tightening them, and race. If this did not fix it, it is most likely the sensor.
Click to expand...

Sorry for bumping this up, but the same thing occurred to me in my newly acquired used CSP V1 and I can not understand how to tighten them, with what kind of tool.
 
Allen Wrench, I believe it is a 2mm but not 100% certain. More times then not these do not require tightening, although it doesn't hurt to check them out. Problems with throttle or braking are usually a sign that the load cell is failing and requires replacement or the circuit sensors are toast and need to be replaced.
 
left888
Allen Wrench, I believe it is a 2mm but not 100% certain. More times then not these do not require tightening, although it doesn't hurt to check them out. Problems with throttle or braking are usually a sign that the load cell is failing and requires replacement or the circuit sensors are toast and need to be replaced.
Click to expand...

Thought so, but my eyes probably start to fail... Thank you very much, I am searching now for the load cell solution. I think I have seen something in the forum, now if I only could find it again...


Edit:
I found the relevant thread, but load cell isn't supposed to apply to the brake pedal? I have not found anything about circuit sensors.(until now)
 
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Yes the load cell is for the brake, I circled it in red at the bottom of the brake pedal. They are relatively cheap, if Fanatec has any in stock. The shipping charge is almost as much as the price of the load cell. Order an extra one while you are at it.

Replace the sensors on the other two pedals as well. Just make sure you take photos of your pedals before you begin. The load cell has 2 tiny allen screws, just loosen one about half way and you will be able to get it out. I am on my fourth load cell, sometimes they come DOA. While you are at it order all new circuit boards. If your pedals are under 2 years old Fanatec will provide them free of charge. You need the PDF of your order or if you can get it.

CSP.jpg
 
Thanks,again. I connected the wheel with the pedals to the PC yesterday. Initially the gas pedal did not register at all. After unplugging and replugging the PS2 cable, everything worked smoothly, all movements registered, no fluctuations to the inputs, etc.
I thought happy with myself that the problem was resolved and that the problems I had were due to a slightly disconnected cable.
No such luck. I reconnected to the Ps3 this morning and as if the gas pedal was not enough. now I have my brake pedal stuck too, it is always registering a little brake input...
What's your verdict (opinion) doc? Do you think that the circuit board died on me?
 
More then likely its the load cell. When they start to go they cause a lot of other symptoms. if your pedals are over 2 years old chances are they need to be rebuilt. Either send them to Fanatec or do it yourself. Keep in mind if they are not under warranty the cost for parts might be prohibited.

You might be better off buying a new set of CSP ver 2. Find out from Fanatec how much all of the parts will cost and decide if thats what you want. it sounds like a load cell problem to me, i had the same symptoms the first time i replaced my load cell, throttle only would register 75%, once i replaced it it worked again.

Just a word of caution, as i mentioned, these load cells can and will die at any time. i replaced mine so many times now, i'm tired of it.
 
So if I get it right, in your case the brake load cell defect caused various problems to the whole set and not to the break pedal alone. Let's hope it really is that, since from what I've heard read replacing the load cell is rather cheap, while the rebuild sounds a little unprofitable to me.
Geez, I love the combination of wheel and pedals, especially when I compare them to my previous DFGT, but these problems are rather frustrating. I hope the the Fanatec guys get their stuff together when the time comes for a new product release...
 
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Geo, I am going to send you a link to a person who might be able to help you out with out of warranty, and needing repair on Fanatec Equipment. I hope Thomas soon realizes there is a market for the parts that we need after several years of use.

I do not want to come across to crass when I say I feel Fanatec does this in order to force you to buy new product, because the ROI on a parts department is nothing. I do though. However, I am sure there is an empty office in both the EU & US to store the +-80 parts for the wheels/pedals, and now shifters in case of out of warranty parts are needed. Get a price chart together on the parts, and there you go. It's that easy, where's my button.... The investment is next to nothing, and you retain long time customers & gain more in the showing of care to your products. Win-Win.

The V1's, imho are leaner, and meaner than the V2's. The simplicity with some slight mods make them far better. Again, imho. Since I sent mine in for repair now +-23 months ago, I have had not 1 issue since arise. Load-cell & pedals still going strong with routine care, cleaning, & maintenance.

Left, I am surprised to hear the abundance in changing of load-cells :confused:. While I had an issue with my first 1(April-Late October 2011), it was more user error on expected results with comparison of push. Since I have adapted to it, my cell is still good after nearly 2 years(Nov 2011-Present). Now, I may not do as much racing as you by any means. Just slightly befuddled at the amount you have needed to replace the cell.
 
After some intermittent issues which resulted in limited and sporadic throttle input my throttle is no longer working, movement does not register in the control panel.
I swapped the molex plugs on the PCB (throttle to clutch and vice versa). The clutch would then register as the throttle but the throttle remains dead indicating to me it's not an issue with the PCB but rather the Hall sensor on the throttle.

The two Hall sensors have some different colored wires so I was wondering if they are interchangeable... would save me some time while awaiting a replacement part if I could steal the one off the clutch to use on the throttle.

Bailey
 
Geopan973
So if I get it right, in your case the brake load cell defect caused various problems to the whole set and not to the break pedal alone. Let's hope it really is that, since from what I've heard read replacing the load cell is rather cheap, while the rebuild sounds a little unprofitable to me.
Geez, I love the combination of wheel and pedals, especially when I compare them to my previous DFGT, but these problems are rather frustrating. I hope the the Fanatec guys get their stuff together when the tim comes for a new product release...
Click to expand...

Yes, when the load cell goes, so will your throttle. I replace them at very irregular intervals. One will last 1 1/2 year and the next one will go for 1 month. No rhyme or reason.

Keep in mind, usually the higher end gear requires more maintenance and the cost parallels the maintenance :D

lopsided
The two Hall sensors have some different colored wires so I was wondering if they are interchangeable... would save me some time while awaiting a replacement part if I could steal the one off the clutch to use on the throttle.

Bailey
Click to expand...

I believe they are but, one cable is longer then the other. The hall sensors will go for at least 2 years or more. I've had 2 sets of CSP's and the oldest set is near 3 - 3 1/2 years and I only just replaced them recently.
 
Thanks Darren, That was my assumption but I couldn't think of any other reason for the color code difference (apart from wire length).
I know I can't hurt anything swapping them just didn't want to go to the trouble of putting everything back together if it wasn't going to work correctly.
Bailey
 
Hall sensors are solid state parts... You should never have to replace them unless they are subjected to forces/signals that are beyond their rated limits. The same goes for the main PCB in the pedals.

I understand that replacing these parts often fixes the issues people are having. However, I have always found it a bit odd that parts like these are "wearing out." There's not really anything to wear out (with regard to the electronics), certainly not in a matter of months or years. The load cell is another story entirely.
 
Well, I use a Sinewave UPS system, so I don't know what else I could possible do to protect my electronic equipment.
Regardless, it doesn't work so I'll have to wait on a replacement, clutch wire is not long enough to reach throttle.
 
I agree with what mrbasher said, with the 2 sets of CSP I own, 99% of the problem are the load cell. I would recommend purchasing 1 new one and have 2 spares on hand, believe me, you'll need them.
 
I have been experiencing similar problems with my throttle and brake pedals for the V2 Clubsport. Where the accelerator gauge in GT5 was not completely filled. I followed the advice and have tightened the Allen screws for the throttle pedal. That solved the problem on Sunday night, only for it to return later, so I turned the PS3 off and went to bed. Monday night came and the same problem existed from Sunday, night. A tightening of the screws again and a reboot saw the problem solved. However at the end of my session on the latest seasonal tt event, I watched a replay of my fastest lap, and noticed the brake bar was never fully filled whilst heavy braking at Monza. Can anyone tell me if you require a lot of force to get a 100% brake efficiency with these pedals? As I struggle to achieve this with left foot braking. It feels that I have to exert a lot of force to get to 100%. By the way I haven't used any of the oil that were supplied with the pedals, would this make braking any easier? My brake dial is at 10. Thanks in advance.
 

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