Controller vs Wheel tunes

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I know a lot of people have made it a point to say that the drift tunes for controller and steering can be quite different. I'm just wondering if this is the case for tunes that are used for regular circuit racing, drag, etc. (basically anything outside of drift tunes). Personally, I found the tunes to be quite similar in all other cases in many instances, but not all. Should I be trying to stick to wheel tunes for all my tunes or can controller tunes be okay? I guess I'm asking this because I don't want to develop bad habits via driving using the wrong tunes that were designed for controller but aren't as good for wheel. Thanks!
 
I just recently purchased a G27 wheel. My DS3 has controller extenders, so that helps smooth out my inputs. What I am finding with my wheel after one week of use, is that my tunes created using the DS3 are pretty agressive for the wheel. I found with the DS3 that almost every car in the game had mad understeer. I went really low LSD settings and adjusted suspension settings to reduce rear grip/increase front.

With the wheel, I find that I can be much smoother on the throttle and brake inputs. The force feedback on the G27 has a funky feel when past the apex and straightening out the wheel. Why does the force move from outside hand to inside hand as I'm trying to unwind the wheel? In my real race car, there is force on the outside hand all the way through the corner until the wheel is straight. Because of this odd programming for the G27, I find that my tunes don't need to be as agressive on corner exit. If I raise the LSD Accel and/or the Initial Torque it settles the car down a bit on exit.

For me, the LSD is the biggest change and maybe I'll find a little bit more corner speed by fine tuning, but nothing drastic.
 
I have a DFGT and I recently did some test driving for the Ton's of Fun Shootout, where I test drove 20+ cars in the first round of testing for literally hundreds of laps on two different tracks. Hami has hit the nail on the head with his description above concerning LSD and steering/throttle/brake inputs. The LSD settings of some of the cars in the test drive set up on a DS3 were way too strong for the wheel and required intense concentration on throttle inputs and did not inspire confidence in creating consistent laps. For my driving anyway, I prefer much lower LSD settings on most cars relative to a DS3 tune.
 
I just recently purchased a G27 wheel. My DS3 has controller extenders, so that helps smooth out my inputs. What I am finding with my wheel after one week of use, is that my tunes created using the DS3 are pretty agressive for the wheel. I found with the DS3 that almost every car in the game had mad understeer. I went really low LSD settings and adjusted suspension settings to reduce rear grip/increase front.

With the wheel, I find that I can be much smoother on the throttle and brake inputs. The force feedback on the G27 has a funky feel when past the apex and straightening out the wheel. Why does the force move from outside hand to inside hand as I'm trying to unwind the wheel? In my real race car, there is force on the outside hand all the way through the corner until the wheel is straight. Because of this odd programming for the G27, I find that my tunes don't need to be as agressive on corner exit. If I raise the LSD Accel and/or the Initial Torque it settles the car down a bit on exit.

For me, the LSD is the biggest change and maybe I'll find a little bit more corner speed by fine tuning, but nothing drastic.

Yes, I think this is exactly what I mean since I use a G27 wheel as well. I'm not really sure if the FFB is really accurate sometimes, but I guess I don't know too much about it. I use a variety of tunes from the tuning garages listed, but I constantly come back to your garage since you have the stock tunes for the different drivetrains that you've listed for non-tuners. I've also used your tunes for some of the cars (i.e., Ferrari 458, camaro, integra, etc.) and couldn't help noticing that you said it was tuned on the DS3 controller.

I know you explained details on your LSD page, but what do you mean by stronger LSD? Do you mean that I should increase the number values in my LSD settings page if you're using a G27? If there are changes to the numbers, would you mind posting G27 stock tunes for the drivetrains alongside the DS3 numbers on the non-tuners page? Thanks again for all your tunes, even the DS3 ones are proving quite helpful for my wheel and racing. 👍
 
Motor City Hami
The force feedback on the G27 has a funky feel when past the apex and straightening out the wheel. Why does the force move from outside hand to inside hand as I'm trying to unwind the wheel? In my real race car, there is force on the outside hand all the way through the corner until the wheel is straight. Because of this odd programming for the G27, I find that my tunes don't need to be as agressive on corner exit. If I raise the LSD Accel and/or the Initial Torque it settles the car down a bit on exit.

For me, the LSD is the biggest change and maybe I'll find a little bit more corner speed by fine tuning, but nothing drastic.

Fascinating. I believe what you are experiencing 'is' indeed a constant, however, around a long left, your right arm is pushing the wheel counter clockwise, to resist the wheels motor from returning to centre. When you begin straightening out, you ease off with your right arm, so immediately your left arm is pulled clockwise, as the energy is transferred from right to left arm.

Does that make sense?
 
I know you explained details on your LSD page, but what do you mean by stronger LSD? Do you mean that I should increase the number values in my LSD settings page if you're using a G27? If there are changes to the numbers, would you mind posting G27 stock tunes for the drivetrains alongside the DS3 numbers on the non-tuners page? Thanks again for all your tunes, even the DS3 ones are proving quite helpful for my wheel and racing. 👍

My term for a more agressive LSD setting is using very low settings. With low settings, the LSD is more open and the wheels are allowed to turn at different speeds more easily. What this does is provide a very agressive late brake, hard turn in and rotation around the apex. The negative side is that when getting back on throttle, you need to be very gentle. With the DS3 it is very easy and quick to return the stick to center - just release it smoothly. I am finding that this action is much quicker than I can be with returning the wheel to center, especially with the FFB motors working against me - unless I really jerk the wheel, which isn't a smooth way to drive. Thus, with the wheel, I need to settle the rotation of the car down a bit during throttle application. This means that I am increasing the Accel numbers a bit and increasing the initial torque numbers as much as the car is asking for.

How has this changed my quick tunes? It won't. The quick tunes are already more conservative than what I normally race with. The quick tunes now kinda sit in-between the DS3 and wheel. Right where they should be for someone not looking to spend much time tuning.

Fascinating. I believe what you are experiencing 'is' indeed a constant, however, around a long left, your right arm is pushing the wheel counter clockwise, to resist the wheels motor from returning to centre. When you begin straightening out, you ease off with your right arm, so immediately your left arm is pulled clockwise, as the energy is transferred from right to left arm.

Does that make sense?

I think PD just wanted everyone to buy the official wheel for the game so they didn't spend much time programming for the other wheels. For iRacing the wheel seems to return to center more closely to real life. Mid-corner with a handful of wheel there is alot of force. As I unwind the wheel the force on that outside hand slowly decreases. In GT5 the FFB motors jump to the other side when I try to return the wheel to center. That's just not right. So I turned the FFB down as much as possible and I'm able to drive more smoothly.
 
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