Couple of questions about gas usage

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ebadevil

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EBA_Devil
I have a couple of questions for the more knowledgeable drivers out there about gas usage. Since it's not painful enough to deal with gas prices in real life, GT7 also makes me conserve gas virtually as well, which is a bummer. But, anyways, here are the questions:
1) how do you tune your cars for hp vs weight for the longer races with gas usage? Sardegna for example. Does it make sense to put on ballast and let's say have a strategy of doing fm6 first half and fm5 second half? Or should I be tuning for let's say fm2 first half and fm1 second half? Am I unnecessarily driving heavier cars and still killing my hp by driving on higher fuel management levels?
2) I'm not a great mechanic, but based on what I know about the LSD, I wouldn't think that it impacts gas usage but looking at the throttle bar, it seems like the game is varying the throttle output. So does a more open initial/acceleration LSD use more gas in the game?
3) what other settings have an impact on gas? I know hp and weight are the obvious but what about things like downforce and transmission ratios?
4) what produces better lap times when you're "saving" some gas- let's say a lap on fm2 and going full speed or do you think it's better to do fm1 and just cruise through a few corners?

Any other tips/tricks on how to get best lap times while managing gas? Thanks for help everyone!
 
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What is going to save you some of the most fuel is short-shifting like you would driving your normal car and going down the FM if you are in someone's slipstream as well as when you are in area of the track with a lot of turns (let's say the start of a lap at Daytona) and then going back up when you are on the straight
 
a1904
What is going to save you some of the most fuel is short-shifting like you would driving your normal car and going down the FM if you are in someone's slipstream as well as when you are in area of the track with a lot of turns (let's say the start of a lap at Daytona) and then going back up when you are on the straight
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So basically more gas for turns and less for straights?
 
Down as in using less fuel (so for example FM4-5) in bits where you speeds matter less or when you are behind someone you won't be able to overtake or got slipstream on a long straight. If you do this throughout a race you do end up saving quite a decent amount for a fairly low loss of time.
 
Lots of things affecting how much gas you use. I'll talk mainly about real life but it applies to GT7 too.

You will use fuel relative to how hard you press the gas pedal - so if you can press the gas to get the right amount of power for the situation you are in the better. Now you can't exactly give it half throttle in a race so these are my methods:
  • Be in an efficient gear. Often when I'm in a taxi they driver everywhere in 5th/6th gear - but this makes no sense if you need to accelerate quickly. Often being in the right gear and short shifting (changing up earlier) but at the right time
  • Lift and coast. There's no point accelerating then straight on to the breaks in short burst as you're just turning that energy into heat in the breaks. This works well with the next technique of...
  • Brake with the gears. Using the breaks is just turning kinetic energy (created by burning fuel) into heat via friction (to slow you down). I'n some places where a dab of the brakes would work, try a down shift instead. A really good example of this is Eau Rouge where instead of braking and turning in you could down shift instead which also helps with the acceleration up the hill. Not so noticeable in high downforce cars though
With regards to LSD and suspension it all helps. Soft suspension loses energy in the springs, but too hard creates resistance. High downforce increase grip and makes the tyres more efficient but creates drag requiring more fuel. Better tyres and LSD/toe etc settings produces less wheel spin so less energy lost in slip. Low RPM turbos can be good for fuel efficiency in some vehicles but High RPM Turbos tend to use more fuel with in increase in air
 
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Small capacity turbo engines are better on fuel than larger capacity NA engines at the same HP level. Sometimes it's just easier to slap a low RPM turbo on a tuned 4 cylinder engine for endurance or high fuel depletion races.

Apart from the driving advice above, try to select and tune cars that can be as light as possible but with enough power to be competitive on the straights. Also, 4WD with low TCS levels will help reduce wheel spin (especially on worn or low grip tyres) thus preventing over revving and fuel use.

In heavy rain where full wet tyres are required, I'd always look to go to fuel 5 or 6 as ultimate power isn't always helpful.
 
One thing I was wondering is does adding a turbo help with fuel economy (turbo and power restriction to bring the power down, versus no turbo and no or less power restriction).
 
ROAD_DOGG33J
One thing I was wondering is does adding a turbo help with fuel economy (turbo and power restriction to bring the power down, versus no turbo and no or less power restriction).
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Yeah I have been wondering that myself, what's the difference between no turbo vs low/mid/high turbo. I remember hearing praiano saying that it's better to get turbo and tune down the pp so you still get the "benefits" of having the turbo but I don't think he was talking about races with gas usage in them
 
ROAD_DOGG33J
One thing I was wondering is does adding a turbo help with fuel economy (turbo and power restriction to bring the power down, versus no turbo and no or less power restriction).
Click to expand...
I would say yes. Adding a low RPM turbo allows you to change up earlier as most of its work is done before your revs get to show up on the rev bar. Means you don’t need to rev the nuts off it to go quickly. Especially helpful on tighter circuits. I often add one and detune (power restrict/ecu) to the required PP for extra grunt low down.

So, in theory, less revs = less fuel. I have no scientific research to back this up... but it's a fact! ;)
 
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I have found that races with fuel and tire wear are often won in the pit, not on the track
don't race the AI, use strategy instead, the lead AI use a lot of fuel and need to change tires often in order to get fast lap times, if you ignore the AI, set your fuel to lean, use hard tires, and draft the AI whenever you can,
you may have slower lap times, but a quicker overall race time, tall gearing and drafting are key to fuel saving,
easy in the corners and easy on the brakes will get the most out of your tires, with the right car some races can be won with zero pit stops,
 
ebadevil
I have a couple of questions for the more knowledgeable drivers out there about gas usage. Since it's not painful enough to deal with gas prices in real life, GT7 also makes me conserve gas virtually as well, which is a bummer. But, anyways, here are the questions:
1) how do you tune your cars for hp vs weight for the longer races with gas usage? Sardegna for example. Does it make sense to put on ballast and let's say have a strategy of doing fm6 first half and fm5 second half? Or should I be tuning for let's say fm2 first half and fm1 second half? Am I unnecessarily driving heavier cars and still killing my hp by driving on higher fuel management levels?
2) I'm not a great mechanic, but based on what I know about the LSD, I wouldn't think that it impacts gas usage but looking at the throttle bar, it seems like the game is varying the throttle output. So does a more open initial/acceleration LSD use more gas in the game?
3) what other settings have an impact on gas? I know hp and weight are the obvious but what about things like downforce and transmission ratios?
4) what produces better lap times when you're "saving" some gas- let's say a lap on fm2 and going full speed or do you think it's better to do fm1 and just cruise through a few corners?

Any other tips/tricks on how to get best lap times while managing gas? Thanks for help everyone!
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1. partly skipping because part of the other questions, but as a general rule: rpm means burning fuel / less rpm = less fuel spend on the same engine (not to compare engines with different limits). Some cars have a generally bad fuel efficiency while there are also cars with a good fuel efficiency.
2. If actually, it wouldnt have a positive impact, your foot on the pedal = engine revving = fuel burnt. This already on roling start animations, during standing starts if you revv up the engine, or when you apply brake and throttle at the same time, so I think it is safe to assume, LSD will be the same (red input bar is still input bar, but reduced by mechanical or electronical means).
3. Literally everything is included:
transmission (longer = more time spend on lower revvs = less fuel spend, but also different speed),
suspension settings (only a very small portion for "bad" or "good" handling setups even on a straight line),
negative chamber angle and toe angle (because you either increase or reduce the amount of rubber on the track with chamber angle or because you create resisistance against rolling by altering toe angle)
downforce settings, very likely the game also accounts for aero by body design (because it is part of downforce),
car height (also changing the airflow),
weight (more weight = worse fuel efficiency),
anti lag system,
last is hp (not because hp, but instead because revving up happens faster)
4. this one you need to try out on your own. I did 1h Deep Forest (edit, wrong track before) with no pits both on FM1 and FM2 with the same car, where FM2 was slightly faster in the race, very likely because I didnt need to be as precise as in FM1

Barracuda413
I have found that races with fuel and tire wear are often won in the pit, not on the track
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If all cars are of the same category of race cars, then I do agree.
But in competition of different car categories (with or without any PP limits) it doesnt mean as much.
 
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Meythia
1. partly skipping because part of the other questions, but as a general rule: rpm means burning fuel / less rpm = less fuel spend on the same engine (not to compare engines with different limits). Some cars have a generally bad fuel efficiency while there are also cars with a good fuel efficiency.
2. If actually, it wouldnt have a positive impact, your foot on the pedal = engine revving = fuel burnt. This already on roling start animations, during standing starts if you revv up the engine, or when you apply brake and throttle at the same time, so I think it is safe to assume, LSD will be the same (red input bar is still input bar, but reduced by mechanical or electronical means).
3. Literally everything is included:
transmission (longer = more time spend on lower revvs = less fuel spend, but also different speed),
suspension settings (only a very small portion for "bad" or "good" handling setups even on a straight line),
negative chamber angle and toe angle (because you either increase or reduce the amount of rubber on the track with chamber angle or because you create resisistance against rolling by altering toe angle)
downforce settings, very likely the game also accounts for aero by body design (because it is part of downforce),
car height (also changing the airflow),
weight (more weight = worse fuel efficiency),
anti lag system,
last is hp (not because hp, but instead because revving up happens faster)
4. this one you need to try out on your own. I did 1h Deep Forest (edit, wrong track before) with no pits both on FM1 and FM2 with the same car, where FM2 was slightly faster in the race, very likely because I didnt need to be as precise as in FM1


If all cars are of the same category of race cars, then I do agree.
But in competition of different car categories (with or without any PP limits) it doesnt mean as much.
Click to expand...
Wealth of knowledge here, thanks man
 
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