CSP throttle travel problem, help?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Energizerrr
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Energizerrr

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Hello, I'm having a problem with my CSP's throttle pedal, you see - I didn't use my wheel for 13 days, due to school and now I've reconnected everything but my throttle pedal has HUGE deadzone, it starts reacting only when it's about 2cm down.
I've tried everything and it doesn't help, can anyone tell me what's the case (and is this deadzone maybe normal for CSP + GT5).

Thanks in advance.

PS: No, it's not dust on sensors because I had my CSP covered with a cloth.
 
Where the spring is connected to the block under the pedal you will find a small Allen screw. Around 1.5mm I believe. Check it's not loose.

Other than that try it through PC and see what the test programme says to you.
 
+1.

If that set screw is loose the pin holding the magnet will spin within the housing. This is most likely the case.
 
Now this is strange, I disconnected the wheel from the PS3 and I rebooted it while violently pressing the pedals (throttle and clutch) and the problem is fixed.
As if some strange linearity was present...

I tightened those screws before I made this thread, that's not the case.


Anyways, looks like calibration sorted this out, I hope.
 
Sorry to hear of your problem energizerrr :sick:

Ok guys,

I was playing around with the options in the driver and noticed the option for center spring, I clicked on it and applied it not thinking I would get any help from it as these options (apart from being able to check the wheel is functioning properly) are meant to be for PC only.

Later on I decided to see if I could get to the bottom of the issue I was having with GT5, to my surprise the center spring option did make a considerable difference, I could feel a lot more center resistance which was a hell of a lot better than before where the wheel felt loose and weak around the center.

I have now been able to use a higher SENS setting on the wheel (540 and 720) as turn in response feels a fair bit more responsive. As for using 900 I couldn't get used to it but came to the conclusion that it is probably down to the wheel simulating the real world better than what the DFGT does and that's why maybe I am not used to having to turn the wheel as much.

Don't know if this makes any sense to you guys about the center spring, but I am positive it has helped me.

Am I just being crazy, or does this option actually help on consoles?

Please, no sarcastic comments :sly:
 
Good to hear youre sorted as well.


As for your question:
I believe that helped your console issues because you are actually resetting the internal settings of the wheel. The consoles input has nothing to do with the problem you were having, ( it seems ).
 
Caz
Good to hear youre sorted as well.


As for your question:
I believe that helped your console issues because you are actually resetting the internal settings of the wheel. The consoles input has nothing to do with the problem you were having, ( it seems ).
Click to expand...

Thanks,

I wasn't actually meant to post this in here, just realized I posted in the wrong thread.

With the center spring option applied it certainly returns to center more violently so to speak, is everybody else's CSR wheel already strong when returning to center? If so then I take it that's why they were saying they were not experiencing the same issues I was having.

Need to find best wheel setting for me again though as it's a different experience now.

Sorry for hijacking your thread Energizerrr, a mistake for me to post this in the wrong thread to start with:tup:
 
Energizerrr
Again had this problem, spent 20 minutes recalibrating 'till the problem dissapearded...
I don't have a clue what's going on.
Click to expand...

Mine had a dry solder joint or something like that. Fanatec sent me out a new sensor.

The replacement had a plastic connection which attached to the pedals. Where the old one was just straight soldered on.

Curiously my GT2 refuses to bind properly with my G27 pedals. I have read about "earthing issues" although I don't really understand them.

Is it possible for you to make a vid when the problem arises. Maybe when linked to PC with the driver showing a graphic display?
 
I have had similar problems since I reverse mounted my pedals. I noticed in the Fanatec calibration screen that my throttle pedal was remaining on just slightly. Well at least it was iRacing initially that I noticed it in their calibration screen.

There does seem to be a little deadzone at the beginning of the travel. I took the pedals down from my Zalem rig and lubricated the bar under the spring and it seemed to help for a day or so but now it's back again..

Is there any manual for maintenance for the CSP such as for the tuning kit? I have seen the 9 minute video of the Fanatec tech servicing them already.
 
I took a pic which I'll upload later, basically my throttle was getting activated only when pressed about 1.5cm in, almost 2cm of deadzone is way too much.
But it's fine for now. 0_o
 
I had a simalair problem, big deadzone, sometimes not showing full throttle in game despite being pressed down etc. This was on PC. I found that it was the USB I had plugged it in to. I changed which slot I plugged it in to and it stopped the issues completely.

Weird.
 
What happens is if your foot is on the pedal, pushing it down, while calibrating, the wheel will think that where your foot has the pedal is where it should be upon start up. This allows you to program a little bit of Deadzone manually. Just take your foot completely off the pedal and calibrate and it should work properly.
 
Crispy
What happens is if your foot is on the pedal, pushing it down, while calibrating, the wheel will think that where your foot has the pedal is where it should be upon start up. This allows you to program a little bit of Deadzone manually. Just take your foot completely off the pedal and calibrate and it should work properly.
Click to expand...

Interesting. I thought it wouldn't work like that. I understand the logic.

GT5 for example works different.
If you start up as you said. When pushing the pedals fully before a race it calibrated in game then.

People recommend on the first race in GT to fully press pedals for calibration.
 

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