CSR weak ffb

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sstoness
Wheel performs perfectly, right out of the box but, the ffb seems quite weak, even at 100%. I have the game at 100% and the wheel set at 100%, as well. Can someone give me a comparison to say something like the DFP? I can't believe it's (ffb) supposed to be this weak. I've turned it (ffb) off and there is a difference, so I know it's (ffb) working but, it's way too weak. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I'm hoping I won't have to send the wheel back and go through all that trouble.

Thanks.
 
Is it possible to try on another title?
Calibration should give some resistance. Although I wouldn't recommend trying to stop the wheel on calibration.
If there is a faulty motor output the calibration would be weak too IMHO.

Edit.

Check your drift settings aren't turned on too high. That would reduce resistance when counter steering.

Just some ideas.
 
Could you please post:

Platform: 360, PS3 or PC
PC settings (if PC used as platform)
Game used
Wheel settings
Game settings

It would be easier to diagnose the problem if any of us here have those basic details. Thanks. ;)
 
Could you please post:

Platform: 360, PS3 or PC
PC settings (if PC used as platform)
Game used
Wheel settings
Game settings

It would be easier to diagnose the problem if any of us here have those basic details. Thanks. ;)

Platform: 360 - PS3
Game(s) GT5 - Forza4 (has the weakest ffb, almost non-existant)
Wheel is at 100% ffb
Games are set at max
 
What are the other settings of the wheel?

Like the following (which are the settings Darin from Inside Sim Racing uses for the CSR and FM4 (GT5 works well with them as well according to amf7's review)):
SEN:900
FF:100
SHO:100
DRI: 3
ABS: 65
LIN:0
SPR:0

Edit:
If you haven't already read or downloaded the manual: http://www.fanatec.de/download/CSR/CSR_Manual.zip
 
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Wheel performs perfectly, right out of the box but, the ffb seems quite weak, even at 100%. ...

Really? I actually have not been setting FF to 100% because I thought it felt a little too strong - a little unnatural. I have been using the Forza 4 recommendations of Thomas (Fanatec) that he has posted on his blog.

SEN: 900 (On some race cars down to 700)
FF: 100
Sho: 100
ABS: 70
Dri:3
Lin: 0
Dea: 0
Spr: 0
Dpr: 0
 
Could you post which firmware the wheel has. Press the two lower red buttons and b & a at the same time with the wheel,turned on but not in any mode. This is used to turn the fans on and off and also displays a 3 digit number which is the firmware version.

The FFB is different in terms of feel between Forza and GT5.......some might perceive it as being weaker but it should be quite strong on either game.
 
Could you post which firmware the wheel has. Press the two lower red buttons and b & a at the same time with the wheel,turned on but not in any mode. This is used to turn the fans on and off and also displays a 3 digit number which is the firmware version.

The FFB is different in terms of feel between Forza and GT5.......some might perceive it as being weaker but it should be quite strong on either game.

Firmware is 701.
 
What are the other settings of the wheel?

Like the following (which are the settings Darin from Inside Sim Racing uses for the CSR and FM4 (GT5 works well with them as well according to amf7's review)):
SEN:900
FF:100
SHO:100
DRI: 3
ABS: 65
LIN:0
SPR:0

Edit:
If you haven't already read or downloaded the manual: http://www.fanatec.de/download/CSR/CSR_Manual.zip

SEN: 270
FF:100
SHO:100
DRI: 0
ABS: 90
LIN:0
SPR:0

I have the manual, thanks.
 
There is "fix" related to FFB on the Xbox.

You need to start the box manually, on the power button - and than start the wheel, so that wheel connects on Box after the console has already started.

It is not *problem* of the wheels, but XBox detecting firmware and it is like that since the original MS wheel in 2007.
 
There is "fix" related to FFB on the Xbox.

You need to start the box manually, on the power button - and than start the wheel, so that wheel connects on Box after the console has already started.

It is not *problem* of the wheels, but XBox detecting firmware and it is like that since the original MS wheel in 2007.

👍 This.
 
I am finding Spec II FFB so powerful on my Fanatec GT2 that I've turned it down (5 in game, 50% on wheel). And in Forza 4 I'm running 100 in game, 70% on wheel since that's powerful enough. It's way more powerful than my DFGT, and easily a match for my G25. If I took the time to compare the GT2 and G25 in iRacing I'd know for sure which was more powerful, but I suspect there's not much in it.

The CSR has the same motor as the GT2, and a lighter rim, so it should feel even more powerful FFB than my GT2 basically.



Regarding troubleshooting, you're missing key information in your post: I've seen various reports of weak FFB when using Fanatec wheels with some types of pedals, particularly some cases of weak FFB with the Logitech or Microsoft pedals used via the adapter.

Which pedals are you using with your CSR?
 
There is "fix" related to FFB on the .

You need to start the box manually, on the power button - and than start the wheel, so that wheel connects on Box after the console has already started.

It is not *problem* of the wheels, but XBox detecting firmware and it is like that since the original MS wheel in 2007.

This^^^

Here are the steps I use and the wheel feels completely different ( using CSR by the way)

1 Turn on Xbox by console
2 Before loading game set up your desired wheel settings
3 Load game

When you have loaded up what you want to do double check wheel settings and your all set 👍

Here's the crazy thing, the wheel will feel completely different. Since using these steps I have lowered FFB to 70 on the wheel (strong enough for me) and am using 100 in the in game settings (may even lower this to).

Before using these steps I was having a couple of major issues, the first problem that I found was the wheel gave you no feedback in certain places, mainly the top half of the wheel if this makes any sense to you guys. Now using these steps the wheel feels completely different, it feels as it should be in my opinion. Before using these steps I hardly had to turn the wheel no matter what SEN setting I was using.

The other issue I was having was with the RWD cars, before using this method they were ridiculously easy to spin out because like I said the turning implementations were way off. These steps only partially helped with the RWD cars (seems to only help with the slower cars) but it certainly fixed the FFB strength.

Hope this helps and hope there is a patch for this issue soon as I find it ruins the driving experience:tup:

Just to let you know I used these steps for FM4
 
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...

Regarding troubleshooting, you're missing key information in your post: I've seen various reports of weak FFB when using Fanatec wheels with some types of pedals, particularly some cases of weak FFB with the Logitech or Microsoft pedals used via the adapter.

Which pedals are you using with your CSR?

I'm using the CSR Elite pedals which I must say, are fantastic! I've tried the ffb and vibration test in the pc software. They do work... any way someone can post a vid of this test?
 
stones, can you possibly measure the distance between the screws that hold the pedal plates to the pedal arms.
 
Caz
stones, can you possibly measure the distance between the screws that hold the pedal plates to the pedal arms.

It's probably a metric number but, looks like 15/16" - .9375"
 
Of course ;) another member has been asking and saw the chance to ask. Thanks for the help.
 
This^^^

Here are the steps I use and the wheel feels completely different ( using CSR by the way)

1 Turn on Xbox by console
2 Before loading game set up your desired wheel settings
3 Load game

...
Just to let you know I used these steps for FM4

I've been using this method and I do think it helps.
As a matter of fact, I now do this in FM4 and GT5 with good results.
 
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