Dfgt ffb

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bavarian19
I recently got the DFGT wheel, and would like to tone down the FFB just a little. I know you can unplug the power, and it turns off the FFB all together.

When I went into settings, the only thing I saw was how to change the programmable buttons.

Obviously, I am missing something. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
When you go to "Steering Controllers" go to the first one called "Steering Settings" and in that menu you can set the feedback strength and power-assisted steering, but you can't use the steering type option since it's only available for certain wheels.

I have my FFB at 4 and it's comfortable for drifting and racing, but that's my personal preference.
 
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I recently got the DFGT wheel, and would like to tone down the FFB just a little. I know you can unplug the power, and it turns off the FFB all together.

When I went into settings, the only thing I saw was how to change the programmable buttons.

Obviously, I am missing something. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Go to wheel settings and go to ffb and you can adjust it from there
 
I have the same problem, ok thanks go to test tomorrow.
the change is very big, from ds3 to wheel, now im a noob :(

Regards
 
Keep driving, I'd suggest a 500pp car on RS in the 500pp Challenge races to begin with and once you are pretty sure of winning them change to RM, then RH, then Sports Soft tyres and so on.

Try the Maserati GranTurismo S, change the engine, inlet and exhaust to get to 500pp.

After a few races you will really 'feel' the car and want to up the ffb.
 
Is there a way to dial in a small percentage of dead zone? It seems nearly impossible to drive straight. I know it is going to provide feedback, but when I drive in a straight line, my wheel should not be oscillating back and forth pulling the wheel out of my hands.
 
I did bring the ffb to 1, and it still does this
 
Is there a way to dial in a small percentage of dead zone? It seems nearly impossible to drive straight. I know it is going to provide feedback, but when I drive in a straight line, my wheel should not be oscillating back and forth pulling the wheel out of my hands.

Grab on tight! Use some muscle!
 
Make sure your stand/desk/ironing board/tv tray whatever your using to hold the wheel is stable.

It just takes time to learn. I started with un-tuned low powered cars. MX-5 or something like that.
 
When I use the wheel with the 2012 f1 game, I have the wheel tuned to fit a realistic driving experience. So this wheel, designed mostly for gt5 does a poor job of representing driving in a straight line. I feel really disappointed in the wheel for gt5. If I could somehow tune the wheel like I can in f1 2012, it would be fantastic.
 
Grab on tight! Use some muscle!

I'm sorry, but this is very poor design if that I the only answer to this problem. I should not get oscillating wheel tug driving in a straight line.
 
You will get wheel tug if the car is under hard acceleration and struggling for rear wheel grip.
 
You will get wheel tug if the car is under hard acceleration and struggling for rear wheel grip.

I would understand that if it were only in one direction. That does not explain the oscillating tug. It is not just a small tug either. This tug will pull hard enough that the car is undriveable. And it does this with less powerful cars on soft racing tires.

Why can't gt5 allow us to dial in what many other games allow? My f1 setup is perfect. You feel the loss of grip when understeering. You feel the car rotate on oversteer. It also allows me to dial in a dead zone in the straight lines so it is not constantly measuring minute derivations from rest position that the FFB makes it worse with each successive oscillation.

I'm sorry, but for someone who has done some driving events on a track, this is nowhere near reality, and an unacceptable answer from a product that calls itself a realistic driving sim.
 
Dude, its a game...a sim...but still a game. On some tracks on the straights the wheel doesn't tug at all. On other bumpier tracks it does. Get a $500 wheel if you want to program every little setting on the wheel. My 8 yr old can handle it on 7.
 
I would understand that if it were only in one direction. That does not explain the oscillating tug. It is not just a small tug either. This tug will pull hard enough that the car is undriveable. And it does this with less powerful cars on soft racing tires.

Why can't gt5 allow us to dial in what many other games allow? My f1 setup is perfect. You feel the loss of grip when understeering. You feel the car rotate on oversteer. It also allows me to dial in a dead zone in the straight lines so it is not constantly measuring minute derivations from rest position that the FFB makes it worse with each successive oscillation.

I'm sorry, but for someone who has done some driving events on a track, this is nowhere near reality, and an unacceptable answer from a product that calls itself a realistic driving sim.

Sounds like somethings wrong here. I've been using a DFGT for years and have never had it tug like you're describing. Mine steers straight down the track. Faulty wheel maybe?
 
Sounds like somethings wrong here. I've been using a DFGT for years and have never had it tug like you're describing. Mine steers straight down the track. Faulty wheel maybe?

What makes me think it is the lack of programming options is how well it works with f1 2012.

Anyone else have the same problems I am having?
 
I don't know... you said something about leaving the power unplugged to get less feedback-are you leaving it unplugged? I can see the wheel driving poorly unplugged. Also,the wheel calibrates itself every time you start up GT5. That quick automatic back and forth wheel action it does. Maybe try resetting both your wheel and the ps3. Unplug, let sit for 30 seconds then restart.

That's a default wheel for GT5 with none of the adjustments for steering sensitivity, deadzones etc... I use the same wheel in F1 2012. Feels the same as GT5 after the latest update and a little fine tuning.
 
My DFGT works fine too. The first few times I drove with it were strange*, but I love the thing now.

*The OP post fits what it felt like for the first couple of laps.
 
Now i can drive without problems, with level 3 on the wheel.
one thing, with wheel need a new ajust in the suspensions...
ds3 ajust dont work with wheels.

thanks.
 
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Now i can drive without problems, with level 3 on the wheel.
one thing, with wheel need a new ajust in the suspensions...
ds3 ajust dont work with wheels.

thanks.

You can adjust the suspension with a wheel.you have to go to the car setting
 
You can adjust the suspension with a wheel.you have to go to the car setting

sorry my bad english.
I say about the tuning profile, the tuning profile playing with DS3 dont
work perfectly with Wheel, with wheel need remake all the settings
because is different, the driving...

with wheel is more easy turn, with ds3 not, this need more ajust
in the suspension.

I can tune, i know lol.

Clear? xD
 
Yes I retuned all of my cars after I got the DFGT. I had them set up to over-steer a lot for DS3 and while I still have them over-steering, I prefer a much nearer to neutral set up with the wheel.
 
What makes me think it is the lack of programming options is how well it works with f1 2012.

Anyone else have the same problems I am having?

We have all had that problem. There is no dead zone adjustment, I honestly don't think the wheel has a bit of dead zone. I will say its a little soft near center though. So you have to hold the wheel perfectly strait. If not you can get a wobble started. The wheel has motors fighting what you do.

Example: Go to SSRX (practice mode), grab ANY car, proceed to drive, now try to hold the wheel perfectly strait and let go gently. You will see the car will go in a straight line. Now gently tap the wheel and watch what happens. The wheel should start lurching back and forth and so there is your wobble.

All I can say is get used to it. Think of it like a car with a bad steering column, when you start to enter a turn the wheel fells free for a second what do you do you compensate for it.

The few tips I can give you is hold on tighter and put a piece of colored tape at center so you know exactly where center is.(If my girl can drive with FFB at 10 and no power-steering assist so can you my friend)

There are programming flaws in the whole game so don't work your self up over something we keep telling you is minor.Its something your going to have to get used to,(dont feel bad, I about broke my desk day 1 with the wheel(attempting to rip the wheel off and throw it at the TV and PS3)

If all else fails do like someone else said and return your wheel and buy a more expensive one that you can adjust to your liking.
 
The problem with the wheel moving from side to side happens to me as well. It took almost a month for me to get used to it but you will, for now you just have to hold on tight. Also, when i took the x2011 on SSRX, the wheel would not stop moving an it was moving incredibly far, it took all of my power to attempt to keep it straight. A lower FFB setting will not help with this problem.
 
The problem with the wheel moving from side to side happens to me as well. It took almost a month for me to get used to it but you will, for now you just have to hold on tight. Also, when i took the x2011 on SSRX, the wheel would not stop moving an it was moving incredibly far, it took all of my power to attempt to keep it straight. A lower FFB setting will not help with this problem.

Yes, yes it will. It will not fix the problem altogether, but it will certainly help the situation. Any of those insane RedBull cars are not very good to drive if people are just starting out with the wheel to begin with. Before the patch that they released a while back to lesson the ffb, driving those cars actually burned up one of my wheels. The ffb on those cars are a bit better now, but still not great. I have used a G25, G27, and now use a CRS Elite which is just an incredable wheel, albeit a bit costly. I used a ffb setting of 8-9 for the G27 and had no issues.
 
Yes, yes it will. It will not fix the problem altogether, but it will certainly help the situation. Any of those insane RedBull cars are not very good to drive if people are just starting out with the wheel to begin with. Before the patch that they released a while back to lesson the ffb, driving those cars actually burned up one of my wheels. The ffb on those cars are a bit better now, but still not great. I have used a G25, G27, and now use a CRS Elite which is just an incredable wheel, albeit a bit costly. I used a ffb setting of 8-9 for the G27 and had no issues.

Hmmmm, how interesting, im pretty sure i have my FFB settings for my DFGT at 7 or 8 but i still have the problem. Oh well, i've gotten used to it but thanks for the info
 
Hmmmm, how interesting, im pretty sure i have my FFB settings for my DFGT at 7 or 8 but i still have the problem. Oh well, i've gotten used to it but thanks for the info

If you have it set that high and are still having a problem, turn it down then to like 2 or 3.
 
sorry my bad english.
I say about the tuning profile, the tuning profile playing with DS3 dont
work perfectly with Wheel, with wheel need remake all the settings
because is different, the driving...

with wheel is more easy turn, with ds3 not, this need more ajust
in the suspension.

I can tune, i know lol.

Clear? xD

the ds3 tunes is much more sensitive then wheels.thats why a lot of people with wheels is not having as much problems controlling any car as someone with a ds3
 
When I first started using my dfgt I had the feedback at 3 and that was fine for a day. Then I put it up to 10. I'd have the ffb at 11 if I could :sly:
 
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