DFGT Problem - Twitchy Gas Pedal.

[MSTER232]

Hey guys I was recently drifting in my 350Z on Gran Turismo 5 when I realised my DFGT accelerator pedal was acting rather strange...



Anyone know how I can fix this without opening my wheel if possible? Thanks 👍 .

 

[MSTER232]

Sorry for double post, trying to get video to work.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hW7QU4i4xt4

I don't know how to embed videos properly .

 

[Techy]

Sorry for double post, trying to get video to work.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hW7QU4i4xt4

I don't know how to embed videos properly .

👍

Sadly, I don't have a DFGT.

 

[mattythedog]

It's looks like the cable is loose- mine came loose and it wouldn't stop reversing - but I guess you've checked that. Otherwise I don't know...

 

[MSTER232]

👍

Sadly, I don't have a DFGT.

Thanks for embedding that for me... having a closer look I also learned how to embed videos properly 👍 . Oh and matty, the cable isn't loose as my rig flexes a little while drifting and the cable stays put. Looks like I'll have to get a replacement pedal set from Logitech.

 

[BiggRayy]

This has been happening to me and a friend owns dfgt , must be a bug or somthing.

(EDIT) i thought my pedals was on there way out but my friend asked me if my accel and brakes ocasionally flicker and just recently its been hapening alot.

 

[MSTER232]

This has been happening to me and a friend owns dfgt , must be a bug or somthing.

I know what I'll do, tomorrow I'll test this on another game and see if this still happens. If it does, then I'll open up the driver disc that came with the wheel and if it still happens there then it's my DFGT for sure. If not then it's a bug with GT5's accelerator sensitivity for DFGT and a patch will be required.

 

[BiggRayy]

I know what I'll do, tomorrow I'll test this on another game and see if this still happens. If it does, then I'll open up the driver disc that came with the wheel and if it still happens there then it's my DFGT for sure. If not then it's a bug with GT5's accelerator sensitivity for DFGT and a patch will be required.

Ok il check back at this topic would like to know if its a bug or broken pedals .

 

[MSTER232]

Today I tested my DFGT with Need For Speed Shift and I didn't notice any unusual behaviour from the gas pedal. So it must be the way GT5 calibrates the pedals for the DFGT and a patch will be required to fix it. It should be like PC sims where you can calibrate the pedal yourself if you are having issues like these.

 

[rally-raid]

Try holding the gas pedal down while the wheel calibrates when you start up GT5.

 

[Morgoth_666]

GT5 is very sensitive with the pedals (too sensitive) and so it makes problems like this more noticeable than other games. What is most likely happening is that the potentiometer attached to the throttle has moved out of position slightly. Pretty common on some Logitech pedal sets. It's not very hard to open them up and fix. I don't have the link but there's a thread in the "Sim Hardware" forum on here that has a lot of good info. Try a search in there. It could also be some dirt stuck in it, or the connection could be going bad. I'd try the simplest thing first.

No clue what does and doesn't void a Logitech warranty, my old one was a hand-me-down and long past its warranty before I started tearing it apart.

You'll probably get a better response if you post this in or move it to the Sim Hardware section.

 

[BiggRayy]

Think it was a bug ive been drifting all day and its been fine.

 

[MSTER232]

GT5 is very sensitive with the pedals (too sensitive) and so it makes problems like this more noticeable than other games. What is most likely happening is that the potentiometer attached to the throttle has moved out of position slightly. Pretty common on some Logitech pedal sets. It's not very hard to open them up and fix. I don't have the link but there's a thread in the "Sim Hardware" forum on here that has a lot of good info. Try a search in there. It could also be some dirt stuck in it, or the connection could be going bad. I'd try the simplest thing first.

No clue what does and doesn't void a Logitech warranty, my old one was a hand-me-down and long past its warranty before I started tearing it apart.

You'll probably get a better response if you post this in or move it to the Sim Hardware section.

I'll call up Logitech first, and see if they are happy to give me another DFGT pedal set (I bought my DFGT less than 1 year ago). If not I'll have to try this. Thanks for your contribution everyone! Oh and here's me drifting in GT5 .

 

[Mike_rmhh]

I do not think DFGT pedals have potentiometers, they just convert pedal travel into force not pedal pressure into force!

 

[Morgoth_666]

I do not think DFGT pedals have potentiometers, they just convert pedal travel into force not pedal pressure into force!

Potentiometers vary the signal based on how far they are turned, like a volume knob.

Load cells vary based on pressure, is what you might be thinking of.

The designs vary a little bit but I think all of the Logitech pedals at least below the G25/27(maybe them too, not sure) use pots. Most other cheaper pedals do too, from what I've heard. Fanatec pedals use a magnetic sensor instead of pots(load cell for brakes on the better ones). I suppose an optical sensor could be used too.

Of course I could be wrong for not the first time. My Logi's were very old and the thread discussing this was for DFP, but I could swear I've heard people discussing the same pot problems() on DFGT's.

 

[miTnut311]

I see you can make it stop when you pull the peddle back. I think an easy fix for this might be to open up you pedals base and open up the spring a bit. Mine did this with the brake pedal, and doing the spring mod fixed it! good luck!!

 

[crcn11]

I'd certainly say it's a hardware issue and not a bug or anything, as the guy up there said^ you can stop it by pulling your peddle back. Of course first ask customer support nicely.

 

[MSTER232]

I already phoned up Logitech and I'm going to see if they are willing to give me another DFGT (still within warranty period, and I do not wish to open pedal set to avoid voiding warranty). If not I'll have to fix it myself or upgrade to a G27 👍 .

 

[HaylRayzor]

I've had this problem for a while with mine. When it happens most of the time it gives me 95% of full throttle when the pedal is fully pressed.

 

[sesselpupser]

I had this problem with GT5P and a DFP, whose pedal box works the same way as the DFGT. I fixed it by opening the pedal box, unplugging the pots (the components on the end of the wires), cleaning it up a little and that was about it. If you have a multimeter you could test that it's working properly like this:

On voltage mode, touch the red probe on the red wire and the black probe on the black wire, you should get +5V between them. If it's a lot less (half a volt would be a lot in this case) then you might have problems with the wheel or USB connection.

On resistance mode, with the pots unplugged, touch the probes on the left and right terminals of either pot (which is short for potentiometer, by the way). It should say 10,000 ohms, or 10k. I would guess that it'll either say 10k or 0, or 0L, or something to suggest it's an open circuit, in which case they are broken. Then touch one probe on either end pin and the other on the middle pin and then turn the shaft of the pot, you should see the resistance start at either 10k or 0 ohms (depends which outside pin you use), and as you turn the pot it'll go through to the opposite end of the scale in a linear fashion, meaning that at halfway through the rotation it'll be at 5k, half the value of the pot, and so on.

Then plug the pots back in and use the continuity setting by touching each terminal on the pot and find the corresponding pin on the connector on the other end of the wire. You should be able to find at least one pin that connects to a terminal on the pot, but not all pins connect to a terminal (there's 9 pins for 6 pot terminals). If any pot terminals aren't showing continuity with any pins, the cable is broken, but they're very easy and cheap to make yourself, so you don't necessarily have to throw the wheel away.

These are just the tests I'd do to work out where it's going wrong, though I suppose a multimeter isn't a common household appliance! I think my pedals had a poor connection to +5V or the wiper (middle pin) on the accelerator pot because unplugging then re-plugging them worked and I've had no trouble since. Might be worth cleaning any bare pins in case there's grease on them, too.

Feel free to PM me if you want any more info, I can't promise I'll remember to check this thread again!

P.S. You can test for continuity with a battery, some wire, tape and a lightbulb out of a small torch/flashlight, it doesn't have to be a multimeter.

 

[CromaTurboIE]

I had your same problem, I removed the pedal and moving potentiometer, well it solves the problem! 👍

 

[MSTER232]

neema_t

I had this problem with GT5P and a DFP, whose pedal box works the same way as the DFGT. I fixed it by opening the pedal box, unplugging the pots (the components on the end of the wires), cleaning it up a little and that was about it. If you have a multimeter you could test that it's working properly like this:

On voltage mode, touch the red probe on the red wire and the black probe on the black wire, you should get +5V between them. If it's a lot less (half a volt would be a lot in this case) then you might have problems with the wheel or USB connection.

On resistance mode, with the pots unplugged, touch the probes on the left and right terminals of either pot (which is short for potentiometer, by the way). It should say 10,000 ohms, or 10k. I would guess that it'll either say 10k or 0, or 0L, or something to suggest it's an open circuit, in which case they are broken. Then touch one probe on either end pin and the other on the middle pin and then turn the shaft of the pot, you should see the resistance start at either 10k or 0 ohms (depends which outside pin you use), and as you turn the pot it'll go through to the opposite end of the scale in a linear fashion, meaning that at halfway through the rotation it'll be at 5k, half the value of the pot, and so on.

Then plug the pots back in and use the continuity setting by touching each terminal on the pot and find the corresponding pin on the connector on the other end of the wire. You should be able to find at least one pin that connects to a terminal on the pot, but not all pins connect to a terminal (there's 9 pins for 6 pot terminals). If any pot terminals aren't showing continuity with any pins, the cable is broken, but they're very easy and cheap to make yourself, so you don't necessarily have to throw the wheel away.

These are just the tests I'd do to work out where it's going wrong, though I suppose a multimeter isn't a common household appliance! I think my pedals had a poor connection to +5V or the wiper (middle pin) on the accelerator pot because unplugging then re-plugging them worked and I've had no trouble since. Might be worth cleaning any bare pins in case there's grease on them, too.

Feel free to PM me if you want any more info, I can't promise I'll remember to check this thread again!

P.S. You can test for continuity with a battery, some wire, tape and a lightbulb out of a small torch/flashlight, it doesn't have to be a multimeter.

My dad works as a engineer, I have a multimeter. If logitech won't replace my DFGT then I'll have to try this as a last resort.

 

[madeye]

This happened to me today but then i realised that i left the DS3 on the floor and it was pressing the x button slighty lol.

 

[MSTER232]

This happened to me today but then i realised that i left the DS3 on the floor and it was pressing the x button slighty lol.

I wish that was the problem, as this twitchy gas pedal problem is getting worse for me. I hope I hear from Logitech soon...

 

[dredman1]

I'm having (or had, hopefully) this exact problem wit my DFGT. Very frustrating as it makes you slide off the track with understeer in corners, no matter how much brakes you press. I was on the verge of ordering a G27 for the better pedals because of this.

So I said if it's not working properly and I'm gonna get another wheel anyway, might as well try to fix it first - no harm if I destroy it in the process. So I took apart the pedals and opened up the spring for the accelerator, as I thought it may have just gotten a bit worn with the constant use, causing the pedal to drop a little and "opening" the potentiometer slightly, and also since pulling back the pedal stops the problem. It worked for about a day or 2, then the same thing started happening again

So I again took apart the pedals and this time filed down the white plastic stopper attached to the potentiometer so it would go down slightly further than fully off. This seems to work thus far, but I've only used it for 1 day last weekend since doing this second repair. Hopefully this fixes it, or else it's G27 time. Will try it again this weekend and update here if the problem occurs again (**crosses fingers** )

2 questions OP:

• Did Logitech ever say if they would honour your warranty for this?
• Does Logitech in fact sell replacement pedal sets only as you said in your first post?

**UPDATE**

Well it's been 2 more weekends of heavy racing since my last fix above, and thankfully the problem seems to have been fixed!!! Hope it stays this way

 

[NjLowrider]

Had the same problem with my g27. The potentiometer in the pedals moves in its base a bit. Just open it up and move it back and put a piece of tape on it.

 

[TomBrady]

Does anyone know how to take apart the potentiometer on the DFGT? I know how to get it apart by itself, just like any pot BUT, the DFGT pot is attatched to some things that contact with the pedal itself, it's a little white thing with gear teeth on it. It also has a spring. I can see a washer and a nut but it's too thin to get at with even needle nose plyers. I suspect the potentiometer is dirty, I'm trying to follow the instructions here:
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?t=247510

but it's for the g25/27 and it's different

 

[Dragonwar233]

Does anyone know how to take apart the potentiometer on the DFGT? I know how to get it apart by itself, just like any pot BUT, the DFGT pot is attatched to some things that contact with the pedal itself, it's a little white thing with gear teeth on it. It also has a spring. I can see a washer and a nut but it's too thin to get at with even needle nose plyers. I suspect the potentiometer is dirty, I'm trying to follow the instructions here:
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?t=247510

but it's for the g25/27 and it's different

I took mine apart and cleaned it but it didn't fix anything so I'm getting a replacement. I would recommend you first try taking the potentiometer out so you can get in good with contact cleaner, if that doesn't work then you could take it apart.
I notice there aren't any videos on youtube of how to do it or anything on the internet, so tomorrow I might record me taking apart my potentiometer and upload it to youtube. It's really quite simple.

Be aware this did not fix my problem, you might just need to buy another potentiometer or just buy new pedals.

 

[TomBrady]

I took mine apart and cleaned it but it didn't fix anything so I'm getting a replacement. I would recommend you first try taking the potentiometer out so you can get in good with contact cleaner, if that doesn't work then you could take it apart.
I notice there aren't any videos on youtube of how to do it or anything on the internet, so tomorrow I might record me taking apart my potentiometer and upload it to youtube. It's really quite simple.

Be aware this did not fix my problem, you might just need to buy another potentiometer or just buy new pedals.

Thanks man. Well like I said though, my real problem is just that I can't separate the pot from the metal piece with the spring, and little white gear looking thing that contacts with the pedal itself. DO you need some special C wrench to get to the washer in between the gear thing and the pot? or did you find another way to get the pot off of that?

I actually got it working for now but for some reason, I keep having to recalibrate it. The range of the pedal keeps reducing itself in the game. Not by much, but mid race, for no apparent reason I'll be slightly below full throttle in the sim even if I press the pedal down completely.

What I did was re-soldier the wire to the circuit board, but I have a feeling this fix won't last, it only lasted one day the first time I tried it but so far I haven't had a throttle sticking. Eventually I know I'm going to need a replacement pedal set anyways. The backplate of my pedals is not only cracked, but 2 of the screws are useless, because the posts they screw into snapped off somehow. Plus the stupid counterweight thing that is below where you rest the heal of your foot, also fell off. And my brake pedal broke right where the black spring rests on it. I glued that but that won't last.

The DFGT pedals are terrible on so many levels. If I didn't play as much or more on the PS3 as I do on the PC, I would just get fanatec pedals but those will only work on PC so I'm going to have to get the DFGT pedals off ebay.

 

[MSTER232]

Thanks man. Well like I said though, my real problem is just that I can't separate the pot from the metal piece with the spring, and little white gear looking thing that contacts with the pedal itself. DO you need some special C wrench to get to the washer in between the gear thing and the pot? or did you find another way to get the pot off of that?

I actually got it working for now but for some reason, I keep having to recalibrate it. The range of the pedal keeps reducing itself in the game. Not by much, but mid race, for no apparent reason I'll be slightly below full throttle in the sim even if I press the pedal down completely.

What I did was re-soldier the wire to the circuit board, but I have a feeling this fix won't last, it only lasted one day the first time I tried it but so far I haven't had a throttle sticking. Eventually I know I'm going to need a replacement pedal set anyways. The backplate of my pedals is not only cracked, but 2 of the screws are useless, because the posts they screw into snapped off somehow. Plus the stupid counterweight thing that is below where you rest the heal of your foot, also fell off. And my brake pedal broke right where the black spring rests on it. I glued that but that won't last.

The DFGT pedals are terrible on so many levels. If I didn't play as much or more on the PS3 as I do on the PC, I would just get fanatec pedals but those will only work on PC so I'm going to have to get the DFGT pedals off ebay.

Well, I would take apart the pedal set and fix it myself, but I don't want to void the warranty. I assume that you have had your DFGT for longer than 2 years?