Did I wreck my BU0836-LC

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I put this question in a couple of other fourms, but would like as many eyes on it as possible.

So I am hoping somone can help me with my current issue. I have purchased a switch(as per the attached file) and I have wired it up to a separate power supply for the LED without a diode to a Leobodnar BU0836-LC, orginally I did a test run and soldered it to button 3, flipping the switch prompted an error saying that the device was no long available or something like that. Cleared all the errors and unplugged the Leo board and the button, but button 3 is still lit up and I have no idea if i wrecked board or not. can someone tell me how to turn button 3 off so I can test it. did some reading this morning and I have read that I should be using a diode with the switch. What are my options, ideally I would like to have the use of the buttons but if not I would like to disable the button portion all together to still have use of the load cell for my DIY CST pedals.

BTW while troubleshooting this I tried to connect the switch to button 2 as well
http://www.flickr.com/photos/79420586@N02/7704611454/in/photostream

http://www.flickr.com/photos/79420586@N02/7704611606/in/photostream/
 
I'm not an expert, what power supply did you wire the led in the switch with? normally it will only kill the switch without a direct connection to the Leo's board, unless the other end goes to the PCb, they yes, you might do that.

if button 3 kept pressed, is there anything wired to it? you need to provide a picture of how you wire the board mate, since the board is having problem , not just the switch
 
I stripped an old LCD power supply 12V 3AMP? I can try to explain how I wired the switch (not concerned with the switch, I can buy another, the load cell board is the thing that I do not want to replace). the switch has 3 terminals, positive lead, LED lead and a ground, to power the LED on the switch I connected the LED lead and the ground to the power supply. two wires run to the load cell board from the swith, the positive and another ground wire.

if I remove the usb cable (disconnecting from pc) and remove the wire terminal block (supplied with the Leo board) and reconnect the usb cable the device shows up in windows, but with no wires attached to the button terminals, the buttons still show up pressed.

I can take a picture of the board and the wiring terminal when I get home
 
When you say button 3 was still lit up, do you mean in the software or in real life?

It sounds to me like you might have damaged your board if it's registering that the button is pressed when it isn't. It's hard to say without knowing how the board works, however, which I don't, and also what voltage was your switch LED rated for? I can't imagine you'd use 12V if you were unsure because that's huge (12V at 3A means 36W, which is massive for an electronic circuit) and its possible your switch was rated for 12V, it looks heavy duty after all.

However, if the switch was rated for 5V, by applying 12V (you also didn't mention a resistor) then you will have blown the LED which means you will have also had 12V in a 5V circuit which is far from ideal, to put it lightly. It's hard to be conclusive without knowing the full picture, though.

If the switch is 'staying pressed' as it were without any switches actually wired to the board, that suggests to me that the IC itself is damaged, regardless of how it might've happened. It's possible to only damage part of the chip while the rest functions as normal, but that's of no use if you can't use the board as it is.

It's possible that it could be a blown pull up/down resistor, but I'm really doubtful that you could do that... Basically what a pull resistor does is supplies a logic chip with a constant on or off signal through a high value resistor (usually 10K) and when a switch, wired to give the opposite voltage to what the pull resistor provides (5V or 0V), is pressed a low resistance alternate path for the electricity to flow opens up and then the chip gets the opposite signal. It sounds more complicated than it is, but it's done that way to make sure the chip doesn't pick up noise and give the wrong signal, so you see if the resistor is blown then the pin to which the resistor is wired may just be going crazy. It's a long shot, the board may not even have external pull resistors, but it's possible... Especially if that resistor had 32W through it, they're often rated for less than a quarter of a Watt.
 
So am I right in thinking you wired it like this:

switchw.png


?

All I'm thinking is maybe the connection you've used as ground, if this is right, isn't a true ground. In fact now that I think about it I know it's not, this image:

6x6.png


Shows that the buttons are in a matrix, so neither of the connections are suitable ground points, unfortunately. To be frank it doesn't look good, but I could be totally wrong.
 
the only difference in my setup and your drawing is that you have both wires running to the Leo board, but I wired mine both going to the ground switch, one to the ground power supply and the other to the leo board

"doesn't look good" does that mean i messed up the board?
 
It means I think you might have but I'm not 100% sure because that's the most specific drawing of the circuit that's available, but considering that the board doesn't work properly and there's a logical explanation as to why it doesn't work, I'm tempted to say that unfortunately yes, the board is messed up.

Then again, Leo's site says: "BU0836 is easy to use and almost impossible to destroy. But if something happens to it - just let me know and we will sort it out!" so he may be willing to send you a replacement or something.
 
OK not the best news I have heard.

I have all ready contacted Leo, and they mentioned for a small fee they could repair it, I sent them a link to a post I have up at thewayiplay. I believe the board still works for the CST pedals (haven't tested since) I will post a picture of the actual Leo board I have.
 
well support from Leo, is very shaky to say the least, I got received an email saying it would cost me 14 pounds to have the board repaired but not instructions on how/where to send it back. At this point I have a Symprojects Pro Race waiting to arrive and will use that for the buttons, but I would now just like to disable the button portion on the Leo board, is this possible?
 

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