DIY Fanatec H-shifter

  • Thread starter niclasf
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niclasf

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Sweden
Sweden
Hi,
This is my first thread in this forum. I own a Fanatec CSL Elite Playstation edition with accelerator and break pedal.
I worked on a diy H-shifter for my Fanatec CSL. I have got it working and is quite pleased with the result. It is cheap, made of plastic and is very sturdy.

If I google it seem like most people make shifters with mechanical switches that connects to PCs.

Is there anyone in this forum that has made an H-shifter compatible with the Fanatec wheel base?
 
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Yikes! While one would think that there’s that kind of expertise here I’ve not seen it. I asked similar type question about rumble motor on the Fanatec pedals and no one could/would answer my question. I have a Fanatec H-shifter however. Wonder how the signal makes it’s way thru the RJ12 and which pins …
 
Very nice, well done. Thanks for sharing. How did you ever get it to work with CSL wheel base?
Are you able to adjust the shift resistance?
I’m guessing no reverse, you just switch to the paddles but what do you do for calibration step calling for reverse?
You could cover the shift shaft with heat shrink for a sleek appearance.
Could you take a stab at answering this?
 
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The X-axis pin to the CSL base need to be a voltage between 3.3V to 0 V left to right. The Y-axis need to be a signal that is either 3.3V, 1.65V or 0V.
The circuit can be found in the link in the information field in the youtube films. There you also find the pinout.

The CSL wheelbase shifter input port only have a few electrical boundary conditions. One of them is that the Reverse position is the Highest potential (3.3V) and gear 7 is the lowest (0V). The calibration procedure is just memorising the voltage level in gear R then 1 and 2, then 3 and 4 then 5 and 6 then 7. Y-position gives if it is odd or even gear.

My gear shifter have all the gears that the Fanatec version have. R and 1-7. All done by using hallsensors. No potentiometers have been used.

Here you find all the details.
 

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