Downshift/braking

  • Thread starter Thread starter Opel DTM 475
  • 26 comments
  • 2,096 views
O

Opel DTM 475

Messages
22
What should I do on cars for when downshifting the spedometer bounces off the redline, and doesn't brake smoothly. It's not a whole lot, but a little bit where it gets annoying. Also, what are the best camber, toe, spring settings (mainly for BMWs, Audis, Mercedes, RX-7, Z cars, Skylines, Z06, Mustangs, GT40s, Alpine)?
 
Also, on my M5 when I'm just pressing square through corners, I can hear the tires spuddering and skipping a little bit. How would I fix that? And as from cars in the post above (most of them), what should the initial torque level be.
 
Alright that didn't work, still the same, even after messing around more.

Can someone give me good suspension and limited slip settings for an M5? As well as a solution to that downshift problem mentioned above? Or at least some tips on the suspension and limited slip and brake balance (mainly the specific stuff I asked about above). Also tips on the ballast/weight balance and if that needs to be tweaked from 0. What's right and suitable?

Some help would be appreciated.
 
Wait a little bit longer before you downshift ...

With every downshift, you should be JUST UNDER the rev limiter ... If you're hitting the rev limiter, you downshifted too early ... If you're well under the rev limiter, you downshifted too late ...

Practice your downshifting more and you should get the hang of it ... Proper downshifting can save you a couple tenths of a second on every corner, which may not seem like much, but it does add up ...
 
So, press brake and then a second or two after start to shift down would be the button equivalent? I have been inconsistent with that, mainly not concentrating on the above method.

Just some help on that M5 and general suspenion tips now...
 
Now I'm getting oversteer on the M5 when braking and coming around corners, can someone just give me a good set-up for the M5? This is frustrating. The tires spuddering and skipping all the time is still there after messing around with the springs and the shocks and the ride height.

Any help would be nice.
 
Take some license tests, and learn to drive powerful cars... There is no magic setup for bad driving... I'm not mocking you, but if you didn't know how to downshfit properly you might need some lessons...

Also try driving automatic... Learn the track first, then tackle it with a manual when you know your brake points... Also drive with driving aids on until you know what you're doing, set them off gradually to get faster....

The M5 is a pretty advanced car to learn off of...
 
do not shift down when your are going to fast for the gear below , other whise the car will (i dont know how to say this in english, in dutch it is : "in overtoeren gaan") "make too much noise/go in the redzone of the rev limiter?"(it has something to do with the rev limiter altough im not sure what that means)" , and you have less control and it doesnt reacts properly)

greetz)
 
KAuss
The M5 is a pretty advanced car to learn off of...
Click to expand...

U think ? It's great ! even for "beginners" . Just take all driving aids off , except the TCS , put it on 3 or 4 and its a dream. Just play a little bit with your settings. My advice ? Test your settings in the second rally of special conditions, the one where u win the Toyota RSC rally car. It's a nice course , easy competition , and in 10 minutes , u won 250k !! What brings me to my next point , dunno if anyone noticed , but in the reverse course of that rally , there is a jump, (REVERSE COURSE , there is one in normal but it's the other side :) ) after those hairpin bends. When u jump that @ a reasonable speed and hold handbrake in mid-air , it's like your slowly gliding in the air.... :scared:
 
Opel DTM 475
Alright that didn't work, still the same, even after messing around more.

Can someone give me good suspension and limited slip settings for an M5? As well as a solution to that downshift problem mentioned above? Or at least some tips on the suspension and limited slip and brake balance (mainly the specific stuff I asked about above). Also tips on the ballast/weight balance and if that needs to be tweaked from 0. What's right and suitable?

Some help would be appreciated.
Click to expand...
How about you just downshift later? Unless you use auto transmission, in which case get used to manual and downshift later.
 
Crayola
How about you just downshift later? Unless you use auto transmission, in which case get used to manual and downshift later.
Click to expand...

you can force it!!

when you press R2 the car will not shift up , when you release the button, it shifts (when you are in the redzone)
I guess it is the same with shifting down ...

greetz
 
spidey_
you can force it!!

when you press R2 the car will not shift up , when you release the button, it shifts (when you are in the redzone)
I guess it is the same with shifting down ...

greetz
Click to expand...
How's that easier than shifting manually ?
 
KAuss
Take some license tests, and learn to drive powerful cars... There is no magic setup for bad driving... I'm not mocking you, but if you didn't know how to downshfit properly you might need some lessons...

Also try driving automatic... Learn the track first, then tackle it with a manual when you know your brake points... Also drive with driving aids on until you know what you're doing, set them off gradually to get faster....

The M5 is a pretty advanced car to learn off of...
Click to expand...

lol no man, I've had all the licenses done for awhile, and have mastered manual way back in GT 3, especially now for GT 4. Since the general driving is different from GT 3 (more realistic). I don't need any lessons. No need to drive automatic since I have manual mastered, and manual is way better than auto. I drive with both driving aids on and off. M5 isn't that advanced for me, just an oversteer and tire problem (not what type of tires, how they brake). But, can't get fixed so would like a set-up for the car (suspension and limited slip). Just to cover it.
 
How can you master manual and still hit the rev limiter on a downshift? I mean even if you did it on accident, you should at least know what you did, seemed to me like you had no clue...

Anyway, if you want to drive better, brake early... This is serious, most of the braking problem threads on this board is related to people who don't know how to stop a car thinking it's NFSU...

I see no problems on the M5 in stock form...
 
M5 is fine in stock form.

Brake sooner, and shift down a little later. To me, it just seems like you are shifting down too soon... has nothing to do with the car setup at ALL.

And to whomever said the M5 is good to learn with, you are wrong. Any car that requires you to run the TCS to drive is not a good car to learn with, cause then you are letting the comp do stuff for you.

Good cars to learn to drive with are the Kei cars and other low power cars that force you to learn good braking and corner...
 
KAuss
How can you master manual and still hit the rev limiter on a downshift? I mean even if you did it on accident, you should at least know what you did, seemed to me like you had no clue...

Anyway, if you want to drive better, brake early... This is serious, most of the braking problem threads on this board is related to people who don't know how to stop a car thinking it's NFSU...

I see no problems on the M5 in stock form...
Click to expand...

To KAuss:
Crayola
How about you just downshift later? Unless you use auto transmission, in which case get used to manual and downshift later.
Click to expand...


Opel DTM 475
Fixed the problem awhile ago.
Click to expand...

From my previous post:
Since the general driving is different from GT 3 (more realistic). I don't need any lessons. No need to drive automatic since I have manual mastered, and manual is way better than auto.

I wasn't consistent with the new driving-style in the game, since it is more realistic and different than in GT 3. Like every new game, it takes a little time to get used to, that downshifting problem being one of the things. Aside from that, I've had the game down and mostly all the tracks, and from the past few days I've completely mastered manual now. You asked. :)
 
okay here's an idea for ya man, try using the analog to control your gas and brake, i know in gt3 you could just mash the button but honestly go try to do brake and acceleration tests in the licenses the dynamics of those 2 key elements seem to be the core of what GT4 did to make this game more realistic. or just get a DFP 👍
 
mistermino
okay here's an idea for ya man, try using the analog to control your gas and brake, i know in gt3 you could just mash the button but honestly go try to do brake and acceleration tests in the licenses the dynamics of those 2 key elements seem to be the core of what GT4 did to make this game more realistic. or just get a DFP 👍
Click to expand...

To mistermino (if it's about the M5, that isn't a problem either. Wouldn't matter anyways, since that's not what I need help with, a set-up for the car is what I asked for originally):

KAuss
How can you master manual and still hit the rev limiter on a downshift? I mean even if you did it on accident, you should at least know what you did, seemed to me like you had no clue...

Anyway, if you want to drive better, brake early... This is serious, most of the braking problem threads on this board is related to people who don't know how to stop a car thinking it's NFSU...

I see no problems on the M5 in stock form...
Click to expand...

To KAuss:
Crayola
How about you just downshift later? Unless you use auto transmission, in which case get used to manual and downshift later.
Click to expand...


Opel DTM 475
Fixed the problem awhile ago.
Click to expand...

From my previous post:
Since the general driving is different from GT 3 (more realistic). I don't need any lessons. No need to drive automatic since I have manual mastered, and manual is way better than auto.

I wasn't consistent with the new driving-style in the game, since it is more realistic and different than in GT 3. Like every new game, it takes a little time to get used to, that downshifting problem being one of the things. Aside from that, I've had the game down and mostly all the tracks, and from the past few days I've completely mastered manual now. You asked. :)



---

This is getting dumb guys, get past my 2-3 day-old downshifting problem (try reading previous posts of the thread-starter). Post if you have a set-up or suggestions on setting up an M5.
 
when you hear that quick chirping sound when breaking it means that your settings for your break balance controler are too high and the anti lock break system is trying to comensate lower your break settings by one each till you nolonger hear the chirping most cars dont need over 12 or so on front or rear my starting setting for breaks is usaly around 11 front and 9 rear for medium weight cars lighter ones need less ( like 10 or 9 front and 8 or 7 rear heavier ones a tad more ( tad as in 1 or 2 points more ie. 13F and 11R) if you hear chirping its too high ajust accordingly if you hear no chirping but still slowing down too little try adding a point on each till you hear chirping then back one after you hear the chirping
 
Opel,
Would you please tell me your current tune and what enhancements you have added? Also do you use a wheel or controller?
 
Well, I put most of the M5 settings (in the setting section not parts) back to stock. Only problems still is the chirping and skipping of the tires on braking and occasional oversteer. I will try out that brake controller method Aarkon (though I could understand it better if you used some periods...):

Exhaust: racing

racing chip: sports

NA tuning: Stage 2

Tire type: racing medium f and rear.

Racing brakes

Brake controller: 6 both

suspension racing:

spring rate: 12.8 and 13.1

ride height: 110

shock bound: 6

shock rebound: 10

camber: 4.0 and 3.5

Toe angle: 0

stabilizers: 5

full cust. transmission

Triple-plate clutch

Racing flywheel

carbon driveshaft

LSD: full cust.:

14, 45, 42 (I know i must have stuff wrong here)

weight balance: 0 and 25
 
ok, just pulled a 1:48.5 at El Cap, in the M5 with only the enhancement/upgrades shown above. The rear end is a little whippy braking on cold tires but it has very sweet & linear brake steering from when they warm all the way into faint orange and it drifts nicely in general, the beautiful Beemer drift. I don't use a lot of camber because I feel excessive use imparts a "vague" feel and only gives the illusion of high cornering speed. The single click of front toe is optional, it definately sets up into turns better but won't pull a high a g once at the apex. The chatter is mostly gone, I had to turn the rear all the way down to 12 which i usually run at 22 or 23 (the rear brake is what I use to align the car while slowing, I think it's called "brake induced oversteer").
brakes 10/12
springs 12.6/13.4
bound 7/9
rebound 7/9
camber .6/1.2
toe 1/0
stabilizer 3/2
asm 0
asu 0
tcs 3
lsd 20/30/10
weight 0/0
I'd like to know what you think of this tune, if poss.
 
Azuremen
M5 is fine in stock form.

Brake sooner, and shift down a little later. To me, it just seems like you are shifting down too soon... has nothing to do with the car setup at ALL.

And to whomever said the M5 is good to learn with, you are wrong. Any car that requires you to run the TCS to drive is not a good car to learn with, cause then you are letting the comp do stuff for you.

Good cars to learn to drive with are the Kei cars and other low power cars that force you to learn good braking and corner...
Click to expand...


OK....It might be alright to bash the over and understeer help, but dont bash the TCS, its not a GT4 generated comp assist, its actual technology found in most cars with a real price tag. And Ill tell you straight up the low powered cars need it a whole lot because they are light as hell and spinning wheels on a light cars aint a thang at all. My 02 Protege needs HIGH TCS because @ 5 it spun through 1st, 2nd, 3rd and the beginign of 4th, and every time I hit the Nos. AND Ill tell you this, My Protege runs 7:44 on Nubergering (and that run I messed up a whole lot, I could run it @ around 7:30, and the Protege only tops at like a buck 65.

Would you remove it from your car if it came with it?

ALSO THE WRX, Evo, Skyline, and PLENTY others use so much computers for traction control steering assistance, would you have all of that removed?

Anyways The over and understeer I find is More GT4 generated assistance, but TCS is not BS.

I aint hating, but trying to clear something up, EVERY TIME I hit a sharp corner in My Dads Lincoln LS the TCS light blinks like crazy as the rear end hops alog (I drive her rough, ALMOST as rough as my Protege LX) THATS real tech in work.

I would love to see the game run with the TCS at 0, I BET YOU DONT EVEN HAVE YOURS SET TO 0 (I couldtnt see the cars in this game run at all they way I drive them if I had the TCS @ 0. :rolleyes: )

BUT I'll give you the benifit of the doubt!

What are the settings you use and I'll try them I want to see how a car handles without the TCS (It must be my settings) I think the LSD could slow the car down enough to keep her from slipping, but your the expert, enlighten me.
 
Opel DTM 475
What should I do on cars for when downshifting the spedometer bounces off the redline, and doesn't brake smoothly. It's not a whole lot, but a little bit where it gets annoying. Also, what are the best camber, toe, spring settings (mainly for BMWs, Audis, Mercedes, RX-7, Z cars, Skylines, Z06, Mustangs, GT40s, Alpine)?
Click to expand...

Sounds liek driver error to me, are you downshifting 2-3 gears quickly?....I had the same trouble and found that shifting down only 1-2 gears depending on the corner ofcourse and using the brakes a bit more, like if im commen up to a hair pin corner..instead of knocking it back from 5th to 2nd with a few taps of the break i wack it from 5th to 3rd and use the breaks a tiny bit more..i guess its personal preferance, but if u do it my way you dont over rev!
 

Latest Posts

Back