WELL . . .
I'm not sure what level your technique is at, or your style, or whether you play in drift mode or time trial or race . . . but the fact you're saying that the hks silvia or the bp is very driftable indicates to me that you're either just beginning or extremely skilled.
that said . . . I personally do my 'drift' in time trial mode, I set a ghost first, with s2/s2 tires at 80% speed, just rolling around the track, then i switch to n1/n2 or n1/n3 and chase the ghost.
for me, the point in doing the excersise is to overcome the lack of traction with superior technique. infact, most of the time that i am practicing i am trying to drift less, but also brake less, of course, i still end up drifting so much that when i show my family they think that I am trying to drift as much as possible . . .
i suggest you try some less powerful FRs and really put some thought and theory into your tuning, just do time trial laps over and over using worse tires each time and try to really squeeze out the most exit speed from each corner at full throttle, you don't want to be fishtailing down the straight after each corner, that's not drift, that's just out of controll.
instead of the bp falken rx7, try the savanna infini, instead of the hks silvia, try silvia Q's aero '96.
some other cars to try would DEFINATLEY be the s.shigeno trueno sprinter by toyota,
my second favourite after that would be the nismo 270r.
I really suggest drifting in FR vehicles. you CAN drift in 4wd like GT-R and subaru, but this is really a different kind of drift, and to me, less fun. they are more sturdy feeling, and much faster than FR of the same horse power on the same tires, yet easier to drive,
which to me is not on the path of increasing skills and technique.
I'll go on a head and spell out the suspension tuning for drifting an FR because if you go look it up you're going to read some retard telling you to:
"play in drift mode, make it as light as possible and as much horse power as possible, u want r3 in front and n1 in back, the suspension really doesnt matter just make it default or maxed, whatever, it makes no differance no matter what" - which is probably true to the fellow drifting in this manner, tuning your suspension will have no bearing on your lap times if you are using such mismatched tires and crazy horsepower . . .
in all honesty, the car will pick you, you need to try out all the sexy FR's and feel them out. as your skills increase, you'll know what you're looking for.
what you're looking for is an FR that understeers, then, you want to make that understeer more pronounced.
lets pretend you start with the s13 240sx, an underpowered NA FR that understeers.
now, the suspension
how will we make this understeer MORE? . . . well
when you have loosey goosey factory suspension and you crank into a corner, the car rolls onto the outside front tire and turns into the corner. what happens if you take away that body roll ? where will the energy being transferred in that direction go ? into the tire.
and if you have crappy n1 tires?
to the outside of the road.
so, i turn up the front springs to 8. i choose 8 because 9 and 10 in my mind are rock solid, no movement, and 5 6 7 are all fairly firm sporty springs, and 1 2 3 4 are what i imagine stock suspensions have. so i choose 8 because it's not-quite 100% no movement.
next i match the front damper with 8
now. . the rear of the car, if we were to match it, with 8/8 springs and damper . . .
and we turn into a corner and the energy goes to the front ouside and those springs just hold strong and don't give and so the tire gives and . . . the front end is sliding to the outside
so we get back on the gas, lift some weight off that front end and onto the rear outside tire . . . and we spin out. phwew, almost slammed into the guardrail.
lets . . . decrease the rear springs to 4 or 5, and decrease the rear damper to 6 or 7.
okay so now when we roll into a corner, turn in, front slides out, punch the gas, the rear slides out and now the whole car is drifting. when you touch the gas, you increase the drift angle, when you let off the gas, the car slides more to the outside, losing speed and starts to roll forward more than slide sideways.
in this way, you can negotiate hairpin turns without barely any counter steering
so to sum up what i am trying to say about the suspension tuning . . .
as a general rule of thumb, the lower you make your car, the harder the suspension has to be. so if you make it too low, and tune your suspension accordingly, you'll just keep sliding out. I usually only lower it to 15 at the most, with the rear end 2 higher than the front.
next, i generally start off tuning all my cars with 8/4 springs (front/rear) and 8/6 damper, I usually increase the front toe IN to about .05 and decreas the rear toe in to .15
depending on the car and the suspension, I usually put the front camber to 2-4 with the rear being about half that, sometimes more sometimes less.
basicly, if i think the cars suspension will allow it to roll onto the the wheels, i set the camber so that the car is in full contact whilst rolled onto the wheel, which is why i use 8 springs and not 9 or 10, because i want it to still be able to roll onto that camber. even though we are trying to use crappy front tires, and increase the understeer, you still want that understeer to count for something, it's a form of braking, so the more contact that crappy tire has with the road, the more it can slow down and change the direction of the vehicle.
PS. TRIAL MOUNTAIN!
grand valley reverse !!!!! has to be reverse!!
El Capitan
infineon sports car track
and my fav, nurburgring reverse
not sure what kinda reply you were looking to get with that post but i hope my informations helps you to enjoy "drift"
