Drive Hub Racing Wheel Converter

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Still trying to figure out how to get the left and right views working. I’m starting to think the firmware update on the Drive Hub is a must in order for this to work. I’ve tried multiple buttons but none work. To anyone who hasn’t updated the firmware for the DH, are the views working alright for you?
On assetto corsa ps4 the d-pad does the views without any issues on my TX
 
On assetto corsa ps4 the d-pad does the views without any issues on my TX

Yeah it works fine for me on F1 2017 on my G27 which is weird. Only GTS doesn’t work.

Edit: Just discovered the issue. You can’t use the left and right views when using the roof camera and can only use them when using the bumper or cockpit view. I have no idea why PD deicided to make this a thing.
 
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How could you go back to the G29 after usibg the Fanatec CSW? G29 is such a low quality cheap built toy. Im amazed at hoe reviews all over the web place G29 on par with t300rs and csl elite. The G29 is a pure waste of money, imo of course


hmmm... I did not. I'm using the Drivehub with my CSW v2, which is a lot more study and configurable than a G29 (because of on board controls for FFB, sensitivity, and tension) This setup just happens to "feel" like a Logitech wheel until GT Sport supports native Fanatec mode (CSL Elite mode). I've always felt the Logitech wheels were a good value and they "get the job done". The Fanatec stuff is definitely a step up in all respects, including price. It's a shame it just isn't supported natively in GT Sport without having to buy a whole 'nother hub and wheel.
 
hmmm... I did not. I'm using the Drivehub with my CSW v2, which is a lot more study and configurable than a G29 (because of on board controls for FFB, sensitivity, and tension) This setup just happens to "feel" like a Logitech wheel until GT Sport supports native Fanatec mode (CSL Elite mode). I've always felt the Logitech wheels were a good value and they "get the job done". The Fanatec stuff is definitely a step up in all respects, including price. It's a shame it just isn't supported natively in GT Sport without having to buy a whole 'nother hub and wheel.
Indeed, just like the logitech DFGT got the job done on PS3 and I loved it. By todays standards/competition Logitech is clearly on the low end of the spectrum. No problem with using what you like, but at $300 the G29 is an overpriced piece of hardware.

PS: I like Logitech a lot. Got mice, speakers, BT adapters etc and all work great. Too bad they went low for current gen wheels.
 
Ok so I just found out about this through a friend. I have a Fanatec CSW V2 with the BMW wheel. With that I have the CSP V2 pedals, CSS shifter, and hand brake. So I'm taking it that all this will work with the Drive Hub, on PS4.and Xbox One, right? But will the BMW wheel work with Xbox One? I have the P1 rim but it feels so cheap compared to the BMW rim.

Also, Pcars 1 gave the PS4 the ability to use a button box. And now in Pcars 2 Xbox One has the same ability via USB cable button box. Does anyone know if this will work? Thanks.
 
You might be better off keeping the TX and buying better pedals like the CSL elite with load cell or even v3’s

Please confirm if the following is correct:

On PS4 using drivehub
Wheel port: Thrustmaster TX
Controller port: DS4 controller
Accessory port: using a USB hub, CSL Elite pedals and TH8A simultaneously

On XOne
Controller port: Thrustmaster TX
Accessory port: using a USB hub, CSL Elite pedals and TH8A simultaneously
 
Unfortunately I have been having lots of problems with this product.
Setup:
PS4 (not pro)
G25 wheel

Problem: The setup keeps disconnecting from the PS4 intermittently. I have tried literally everything:
- Unpaired the connected DS4
- changed DS4 cables
- tested various sequences of connecting the Drivehub, wheel and DS4
- tested various versions of the Drivehub firmware

It's still disconnecting, which means it is unreliable for any online racing. Anyone else experienced this and/or know of a fix?
 
I had the same problem, but found out that you can order them directly from their website, worldwide.
https://shop.cronusmax.com/drivehub.html
I ordered mine on 15 Oct direct from Collective Minds, it arrived today (two weeks) in Queensland and I am currently using with my G27. All good just had to change a couple of the defaults as the settings while driving for brakes, TC and fuel are meant for the dial on the G29 and using the buttons sends the adjustment to the extreme one way or the other. So far found it well worth the $ compared to new wheel.
 
Ok so I just found out about this through a friend. I have a Fanatec CSW V2 with the BMW wheel. With that I have the CSP V2 pedals, CSS shifter, and hand brake. So I'm taking it that all this will work with the Drive Hub, on PS4.and Xbox One, right? But will the BMW wheel work with Xbox One? I have the P1 rim but it feels so cheap compared to the BMW rim.

Also, Pcars 1 gave the PS4 the ability to use a button box. And now in Pcars 2 Xbox One has the same ability via USB cable button box. Does anyone know if this will work? Thanks.

Yes. According to the Cronusmax website, any rim will work with the CSW and Drivehub on both the PS4 and Xbox One, but you will need an additional adapter with an Xbox One. FYI, Forza 7/Horizon 3/Apex on a PC can use any Fanatec rim, so it’s not necessarily something I would use it for. The PS4 compatibility is the primary reason I use Drivehub.

Please confirm if the following is correct:

On PS4 using drivehub
Wheel port: Thrustmaster TX
Controller port: DS4 controller
Accessory port: using a USB hub, CSL Elite pedals and TH8A simultaneously

On XOne
Controller port: Thrustmaster TX
Accessory port: using a USB hub, CSL Elite pedals and TH8A simultaneously

I don’t think the USB hub will work. I connect my shifter right to the Fanatec wheel, and it works.... not sure how it would work with Thustmaster.

Unfortunately I have been having lots of problems with this product.
Setup:
PS4 (not pro)
G25 wheel

Problem: The setup keeps disconnecting from the PS4 intermittently. I have tried literally everything:
- Unpaired the connected DS4
- changed DS4 cables
- tested various sequences of connecting the Drivehub, wheel and DS4
- tested various versions of the Drivehub firmware

It's still disconnecting, which means it is unreliable for any online racing. Anyone else experienced this and/or know of a fix?

I’m not having any disconnects with my Fanatec CSW. I have a G25, but I’ll need to drag it out of storage to test it with the Drivehub.
 
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I’m not having any disconnects with my Fanatec CSW. I have a G25, but I’ll need to drag it out of storage to test it with the Drivehub.

I think we have solved it, not 100% sure yet but almost. The main thing seems to be to actually unpair/forget the DS4 that is being connected to the Drivehub and used for the PS4 license validation. As soon as I unpaired the DS4 virtually all disconnects stopped.
I have since changed the USB cable as well (since they recommend a short USB cable), but the disconnects stopped with just the unpairing - no cable swap.

So, it may be that it is not enough to merely turn off the controller. It may be that unpairing is the best way to go.
 
Please confirm if the following is correct:

On PS4 using drivehub
Wheel port: Thrustmaster TX
Controller port: DS4 controller
Accessory port: using a USB hub, CSL Elite pedals and TH8A simultaneously

On XOne
Controller port: Thrustmaster TX
Accessory port: using a USB hub, CSL Elite pedals and TH8A simultaneously
Yes, that will work fine.
 
I don’t think the USB hub will work. I connect my shifter right to the Fanatec wheel, and it works.... not sure how it would work with Thustmaster.

I tested some and with the Xone the shifter can go to the wheelbase and work as normal. On PS4 I used a hub to connect the shifter to the drivehub and it worked fine.

*Note on using the TX through drivehub on Xone: i suggest using a short usb cable from drivehub to XOne. I noticed in previous set ups that when using a 6 feet USB extension by itself the force feedback on the Xbox gets extremely weak. The same happens with the drivehub when using the included usb cable (long). I used a short usb cable from drivehub to xbox and problem solved. Also the xbox home button on the wheel base does not work when connected through the drivehub.
 
As far as I know from @Podger they are looking for volunteers who have TS-PC,T-GT,TS-XW to help them make these wheels compatible with Drive Hub.
Thanks, I found a few volunteers to help. I got good traces from a TS-PC and TS-XW. I also got a trace from T-GT but it wasn't complete as the guys PC wouldn't install the Thrustmaster driver no matter what we tried.... So still looking for a T-GT owner to help us out.
 
Thanks, I found a few volunteers to help. I got good traces from a TS-PC and TS-XW. I also got a trace from T-GT but it wasn't complete as the guys PC wouldn't install the Thrustmaster driver no matter what we tried.... So still looking for a T-GT owner to help us out.
How can I help?(T-GT owner)
 
Thanks, I found a few volunteers to help. I got good traces from a TS-PC and TS-XW. I also got a trace from T-GT but it wasn't complete as the guys PC wouldn't install the Thrustmaster driver no matter what we tried.... So still looking for a T-GT owner to help us out.
Another T-GT owner here, and it's updated. What do you need?
 
my drivehub works perfectly with GTS and my G27, so much nicer than using a controller!

On the other hand I have a load cell brake pedal mod and the travel to go from 0-max in GTS is not much (meaning GTS assumes full braking when I have very little pressure on the load cell). When the G27 is attached to the PC it seems the logitech panel can self-calibrate no problem to a much wider range of inputs, is this a GTS issue or something that can be changed in the drivehub? No issues on the accelerator, which is at max for GTS when it is at max from a pedal perspective too.
 
my drivehub works perfectly with GTS and my G27, so much nicer than using a controller!

On the other hand I have a load cell brake pedal mod and the travel to go from 0-max in GTS is not much (meaning GTS assumes full braking when I have very little pressure on the load cell). When the G27 is attached to the PC it seems the logitech panel can self-calibrate no problem to a much wider range of inputs, is this a GTS issue or something that can be changed in the drivehub? No issues on the accelerator, which is at max for GTS when it is at max from a pedal perspective too.

That is a GTS/ps4 issue. Unless the game specifically allows you to calibrate your pedals and save it (which GTS does not) then each time your wheel is seen by the game the pedals need to be calibrated.

I do not have a load cell but I have the conical mod. What I do is once GTS is up and running or while a track is loading, press both feet on the brake pedal really hard. This gives me my max braking point. This only needs to be done once each time your start GTS up or if you unhook your wheel for some reason and reconnect it while the game is running.

Sadly.. GTS does not have many of the advanced sim configurations that others do have.
 
I do not have a load cell but I have the conical mod. What I do is once GTS is up and running or while a track is loading, press both feet on the brake pedal really hard. This gives me my max braking point. This only needs to be done once each time your start GTS up or if you unhook your wheel for some reason and reconnect it while the game is running.

that's what I mean, I have to do this on PC as well (it does not remember the calibration) but it feels that on PC I can press let's say 20lb and the 0-100% travel in game will be 0-20lb, while on PS4 even if I press 20lb I get 100% brake at 5lb regardless, it's like it thinks the load cell is at max way before it is, maybe because it has a different electrical resistance range than the original potentiometer?
 
that's what I mean, I have to do this on PC as well (it does not remember the calibration) but it feels that on PC I can press let's say 20lb and the 0-100% travel in game will be 0-20lb, while on PS4 even if I press 20lb I get 100% brake at 5lb regardless, it's like it thinks the load cell is at max way before it is, maybe because it has a different electrical resistance range than the original potentiometer?

Ah dang.. no idea sorry.
 
Working with Podger on the TS-PC(with a CSP V3 also) still. Podger made a firmware update for TS-PC support for the Drivehub and we got it to work on PC to be tricked as T500RS and also tried it on the PS3 in GT6(I don't own a PS4). FFB seems to work and everything seems to be working as intended. I don't know if I can set CSP's brake load cell sensitivity on PC and have it carry over to using it elsewhere. Its a bit touchy but I think that can be driven around.
 
I ordered my Drivehub today! Looking forward to playing Forza 7 on Xbox One X with my G29. I didn't want to buy a G929 or a similar wheel with another wheel stand, but i didn't want to go back to Game Pad either. Drivehub could be the perfect solution. Lets hope it all works out fine. It will ship to Germany... so lets wait and see how long this will take (flat-rate delivery)
 
Just a heads up that the CronusMax shop is out of stock but still taking orders, so you might have a very long wait. Best to order from Collective Minds until further notice.


👍
 
VBR
Just a heads up that the CronusMax shop is out of stock but still taking orders, so you might have a very long wait. Best to order from Collective Minds until further notice.
👍

Yeah, i ordered from the Collective Minds site. If it will arrive before December 20th, i'll be fine.
 
Working with Podger on the TS-PC(with a CSP V3 also) still. Podger made a firmware update for TS-PC support for the Drivehub and we got it to work on PC to be tricked as T500RS and also tried it on the PS3 in GT6(I don't own a PS4). FFB seems to work and everything seems to be working as intended. I don't know if I can set CSP's brake load cell sensitivity on PC and have it carry over to using it elsewhere. Its a bit touchy but I think that can be driven around.
Thanks for the help, its nice to get the stuff working... we also got traces for the T-GT and the TS-XM and are working to add support for them..
I would like to find someone with a TS-PC + TH8A... the base has a din port for the TH8A, so I'm really curious to see how it sends the gears, the previous generation i.e. TX, TMX, T300, T150 don't send shifter traffic in PC-Mode, so seeing as the TS-PC only has a PC-Mode and has a din port then it must not be limited in the fashion.
 
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