Drive Hub Racing Wheel Converter

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I don't think so, maybe Podger is on holiday ?
Regarding your issue with FM23, are you using quick resume ? This bring issues on the FFB
 
I don't think so, maybe Podger is on holiday ?
Regarding your issue with FM23, are you using quick resume ? This bring issues on the FFB
Thank you for your reply.
No, I always close the game to reduce random game crashes. I have no problems with latest official, the “left blocking” appears only with the last beta (I’ve not tested other beta versions).
I also wait for a feedback about the G29 with G920 buttons mapping, playing with gloves in AAC on G29 and trying to use the select button is impossible.
 
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Does anyone know if someone has tried the Simagic P1000 pedals with the Drive Hub?


Jerome
 
i dont really know what you are looking for can you explain what you want..
For example I turn phisical wheel to 90 degrees and in the game 80 or 100...override the 1:1 ratio... Like in other 25460 racing games...
Like drive hub override ffb strength...its possible to let the degrees set on the wheel and not the degrees set by the game...
 
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I checked their site and there f/w update has most of the info I need, I'll add them over the next few days.
That'd be awesome buddy, thanks for taking the time to try them out! 'precciate ya!


Jerome
 
I installed today the 2.1.2-beta.28 firmware (I had previously installed the 2.1.1 stable) and noticed an annoying problem in Forza Motorsport with my DriveHub + G29 setup on the Xbox Series X: every time I turn the steering wheel to the left it starts to lock, shake annoyingly and stiffen up.
I've done two races under these conditions and it was very hard to keep the car on the track.
As a positive thing I noticed that the problem of the steering wheel being 'locked' (in the entry position and with the opposite force) entering the pits has been resolved, but the problem indicated before makes the steering wheel unusable.
I am reinstalling version 2.1.1.

PS: I add @Podger to hope he can read and solve.
@Podger I'm sorry to bother your. Have you found a solution for this problem? If needed I could try to record a video of the bug.
 
@Monkey Man

you can use this link to update the firmware.... Just make sure you are using Chrome instead of Safari (or other browsers).






As for the price, I think it's priced very well for all that it does. With the drivehub, I can use my pc only version of the G Pro on my PS4, PS5 and Xbox series X. I haven't tried it on my PS3, might try to dig it out this weekend... But @Podger has already told you that it works with the PS3 so there really is no need for me to check it.

The drivehub also let's me use different shifters, pedals and it also let's me use the full 11nm torque in GT7.

I find your comment about the drivehub kinda silly and odd considering all that I can do with the drivehub. This route is much cheaper than getting a PS version of the wheel and then getting another wheel to use it on Xbox and then be stuck using the current (kinda crappy) Logitech shifter. Plus I've already spent over $1500 on my wheel, pedals and shifter, so spending another $100 to add this much capability is money well spent.


BTW.... Podger is the most reputable source when it comes to the Drivehub. If he says it works, then it works.... If he says it won't work, then it won't work. There is no source better than him, he is the expert on that thing.
 
I find your comment about the drivehub kinda silly and odd considering all that I can do with the drivehub. This route is much cheaper than getting a PS version of the wheel and then getting another wheel to use it on Xbox and then be stuck using the current (kinda crappy) Logitech shifter.
Silly if I were in your shoes, granted, but I have no PC, no X-Box and only run 3 racing games on PS5, all of which work perfectly and have TrueForce support. The only "glitch" of course is the torque nerf in GT7, but I use 6nm anyway.

IOW, this would only be for GT6 on my old PS3 and as I said, the price is triple what it was back in the day when I first researched it. I fully understand your perspective 'though.

Thank you for confirming who Podger is; I remember him now from back in the day.

Thank you also for that link. Unfortunately it says, "I'm sorry I can't do that Dave. Web Updated is already opened in another page!". I only opened this one page. Looks good in theory 'though; I take it I could update the firmware without having to run the app. That'd be awesome!

EDIT
I was using Safari. That must've been the problem. Can't test now 'cause don't run Chrome. Will Firefox work?
 
IOW, this would only be for GT6 on my old PS3 and as I said, the price is triple what it was back in the day when I first researched it.
I'm not sure how far back you were looking at DH, but I got my first one in 2019 and it was the same price then as it is now. One of my use cases was to connect a G29 to play on PS3 with GT6. In fact I found my old email specifically asking about this scenario before buying my first one. I ended up selling that one to a buddy so he could use a G25 on PS4. Bought myself a second DH sometime later because I knew it would come in handy again someday (it ended up being a fancy USB hub for my setup until just recently—that TM Racing Hub does not seem worth it at all).

I saw that Podger confirmed with you that it works as each brand's contemporary on PS3. I haven't yet tried it myself but my plan was to put the G Pro in G923 mode, connect a PS3 controller and drive. But the way Podger worded his response, maybe compatibility mode isn't necessary.
 
I wasn’t able to reproduce the issue. Maybe it’s just me tho.
I hope it could help to understand. The problem occurs while driving, not while stationary. As soon as I turn left at a certain speed the steering wheel 'jumps to the left' forcing me to counter-steer or otherwise hold the steering wheel so as not to lose the car.



For the first time in my life I used the buttons as throttle and brake to record the video 😅

Please remap these keys for ACC users 🥲

Update : I forgot to tell you that my advanced wheel configuration is based on this: https://www.levelpush.com/forza/best-logitech-g29-g920-settings-motorsport/

No center spring or other settings that create a bad feeling with the FFB and the wheel.
 
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I checked their site and there f/w update has most of the info I need, I'll add them over the next few days.
My Drivehub arrived today. I'm still waiting for the Hori controller, but I'm wondering if you've had a chance to try out the P1000 pedals with the Drivehub yet. if not, no sweat, I'm sure you are hella busy :)


Jerome
 
I'm not sure how far back you were looking at DH, but I got my first one in 2019 and it was the same price then as it is now. One of my use cases was to connect a G29 to play on PS3 with GT6. In fact I found my old email specifically asking about this scenario before buying my first one. I ended up selling that one to a buddy so he could use a G25 on PS4. Bought myself a second DH sometime later because I knew it would come in handy again someday (it ended up being a fancy USB hub for my setup until just recently—that TM Racing Hub does not seem worth it at all).

I saw that Podger confirmed with you that it works as each brand's contemporary on PS3. I haven't yet tried it myself but my plan was to put the G Pro in G923 mode, connect a PS3 controller and drive. But the way Podger worded his response, maybe compatibility mode isn't necessary.
I don't think compatibility mode alone will work, but I've been meaning to try it.

Wasn't the G923 PS4-onwards-only?

It works on Microsoft Edge too. I think it works well on all Chromium based (Chrome, Edge, Brave, Kiwi, etc.) web browser.
Hopefully I can find something that runs on my Mac.

Thanks mate.
 
I don't think compatibility mode alone will work, but I've been meaning to try it.

Wasn't the G923 PS4-onwards-only?
Since we're talking specifically about DriveHub in this thread, it was implied that the devices are routed through that device before going into the console.

The DH is known to convert the PS4 wheels for use with PS3 (G29/920/923), but Podger mentioned only Logitech as a whole (so in this case that includes G PRO, possibly without having to go into G923 compatibility mode) will be seen as the PS3's contemporary of that brand's wheel base (in this case G27/25, depending on the game).
 
Hello I can't find how to let work drivehub with my gpro on ps5
I have updated the firmware

I plugged ps5 controller on controller drivehub port, the wheel usb on wheel port and the console port to console usb...
The drivehub go on but continue to circle and the wheel ask me to choose ps5 ps4 or pc mode...
I select ps5 and remain with the three doots and don't work

I miss something?
Thx in advance
 
Hello I can't find how to let work drivehub with my gpro on ps5
I have updated the firmware

I plugged ps5 controller on controller drivehub port, the wheel usb on wheel port and the console port to console usb...
The drivehub go on but continue to circle and the wheel ask me to choose ps5 ps4 or pc mode...
I select ps5 and remain with the three doots and don't work

I miss something?
Thx in advance
You can’t use the ds5 controller, you need a 3rd party ps4 controller.. like a hori pad mini.
 
Hello I can't find how to let work drivehub with my gpro on ps5
I have updated the firmware

I plugged ps5 controller on controller drivehub port, the wheel usb on wheel port and the console port to console usb...
The drivehub go on but continue to circle and the wheel ask me to choose ps5 ps4 or pc mode...
I select ps5 and remain with the three doots and don't work

I miss something?
Thx in advance
As Podger said, you can't use a PS5 controller with the drivehub. You would need a Hori or maybe some other third party controller. You don't need a third party controller if you are using a PS4/5 supported peripheral. You only need the third party controller when using a nonsupported peripheral... The security chip in the controller is mixed with the unsupported peripheral to make it look like a supported item.

Glad to see that you were able to figure your setup out... Looks like your wheel is supported, so you are correct that you need to plug it in to the controller port instead of the wheel port.


What games are you playing?
 
@Podger if I wanted to connect to a pc via a usb toggle switch, could I keep the drivehub connected 'as-is'? Or would I have to remove the drivehub and plug my wheel/pedals directly into the pc? Just wondering if I can be lazy or not, lol.



Jerome
 
@Podger if I wanted to connect to a pc via a usb toggle switch, could I keep the drivehub connected 'as-is'? Or would I have to remove the drivehub and plug my wheel/pedals directly into the pc? Just wondering if I can be lazy or not, lol.



Jerome

This is what I do and it works best if you're using a non-PS compatible wheel, ironically (I had issues of the DH seeing a T300 as a T-GT II with this method, and the FFB was barely there)

I'm using a USB switch:

Plug everything into a USB hub (wheel base and/or pedals, shifter, handbrake, etc)

USB hub output plugs into USB switch input

One output from the switch goes to PC, the other output goes into DriveHub "Wheel/Controller" port (the middle USB-A slot)

Hori Mini (or compatible wired PS4 controller) goes into DriveHub "Controller" port (the USB-A slot next to the Micro USB port)

Drivehub connects to the console

———

With the press of one button you can toggle between PC and console.

Note that this leaves the "Accessory" port on the DH empty, so you're free to plug in some other console-only device you want in there.

Edit: if you do have a PS-compatible wheel and have issues, you'll have to manually unplug the wheel base from the USB hub and plug it into the "Controller" port of the DH, everything else can stay the same. Better to manually move one USB plug than multiple, but I was afraid of wearing out the ports so I upgraded my wheel base to a PC-only variant. Or if you're semi-super-lazy you can get a second USB switch just for the wheel base, and now you press 2 buttons to switch between console and PC (and save your USB ports from extra wear).
 
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This is what I do and it works best if you're using a non-PS compatible wheel, ironically (I had issues of the DH seeing a T300 as a T-GT II with this method, and the FFB was barely there)

I'm using a USB switch:

Plug everything into a USB hub (wheel base and/or pedals, shifter, handbrake, etc)

USB hub output plugs into USB switch input

One output from the switch goes to PC, the other output goes into DriveHub "Wheel/Controller" port (the middle USB-A slot)

Hori Mini (or compatible wired PS4 controller) goes into DriveHub "Controller" port (the USB-A slot next to the Micro USB port)

Drivehub connects to the console

———

With the press of one button you can toggle between PC and console.

Note that this leaves the "Accessory" port on the DH empty, so you're free to plug in some other console-only device you want in there.

Edit: if you do have a PS-compatible wheel and have issues, you'll have to manually unplug the wheel base from the USB hub and plug it into the "Controller" port of the DH, everything else can stay the same. Better to manually move one USB plug than multiple, but I was afraid of wearing out the ports so I upgraded my wheel base to a PC-only variant. Or if you're semi-super-lazy you can get a second USB switch just for the wheel base, and now you press 2 buttons to switch between console and PC (and save your USB ports from extra wear).
I see. Yeah, I have the same setup, just flip a switch to seamlessly go from PS to PC, its great. But I currently have a Fanatec wheelbase and pedals. But with all this 'drama' that keep happening with Fanatec, I'm on the fence about jumping ship to Simagic. The Sigma adapter supposedly lets you use simagic stuff on PS. But I'll have to decide on that later, now I just need to get the details of what my options are. Thanks for the info buddy!


Jerome
 
I just gotta say, drivehub on GT7 with VR, really gave exactly what I wanted…..

KICK ASS PRODUCT!!!!!!

When I first got it for some reason even after flashing the newest beta it wasn’t netting that torque increase in Pro Mode, haven’t played for maybe a month just due to being busy. On the weekend flashed to the newest, turned up the torque and my lord… perfect.

Ran it in pro mode for a couple races and drove straight to the store to pick up a Thrustmaster shifter, The game is so much more fun now I’m hooked all over again.
 

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Not on this wheel, I'm sure it is with usb on PC when you go on the TM control panel you can test the led and it's working, and last night just after using DH on xbox and turn the console off, the wheel has restart and the leds have revs, it was the first time so this give me hope :-)

This is is wheel
View attachment 1349794
On PC you need another software for that, either fanaleds, SLIMax or SimHub(mod), so the PC sends the leds data via USB. What Podgers is saying is that console games dont send leds data through usb, so that means there is no way to make it work.

Curious tho, G29 has working leds on GT7, i wonder how does that work.
 
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