Drive Hub Racing Wheel Converter
- Thread starter VBR
- 3,386 comments
- 838,868 views
- 822
- grashopper
Okay really wanting to pick this up but I'm kind of wondering if it would be worth it to play with Forza 7. I have a pretty unimpressive DFGT that I loved playing GT6 with. But it seems people kind of speak poorly of the way Forza games feel with the wheel. Does it feel worse than GT? Would it still be more enjoyable than a controller or just frustration and sadness that it's not as good as it should be.
- 5
- United Kingdom
- 5
- United Kingdom
- 5
- United Kingdom
- 3,625
- Netherlands
- skazz-race
- skazzracer
I own the T300 and Fanatec GT2 (same internals as the CSR but a heavier Porsche rim).
For me there's no competition, the T300 is more powerful and has a lot less internal resistance in the belts than the old Fanatec. T300 is by far the better Wheel.
For me there's no competition, the T300 is more powerful and has a lot less internal resistance in the belts than the old Fanatec. T300 is by far the better Wheel.
I used to own a Fanatec GT2 which I believe is the Porsche version of the CSR. I also own a TX which is the Xbox version of the T300.
The TX/T300 is by far the better wheel.
Edit:- Just noticed I have used the same terminology as skazz.
- 5
- United Kingdom
Thanks for the input guys. Now i'm thinking to get myself a t300, use it with my CSR elite pedals and get rid of everything else - at least until I have the chance to upgrade to a CSL wheel.
I think my primary platform will be the xbox so would it be better to get the tx version to use natively and then the drivehub to use with the ps4? I'm assuming the tx / t300 are identical in terms of the wheel base - gonna do a bit of research this evening.
Thanks again, great forum!
I think my primary platform will be the xbox so would it be better to get the tx version to use natively and then the drivehub to use with the ps4? I'm assuming the tx / t300 are identical in terms of the wheel base - gonna do a bit of research this evening.
Thanks again, great forum!
- 1,311
- US. North East region
Since you are getting the drive hub anyways, you might want to get the wheelbase based on the best value for your money. For example I just looked at Amazon and they have the TX Leather edition for $489.95 USD, but they also have a T300GT for $399.97 USD. Granted, both of these prices aren't anything to write home about but, since platform compatibility isn't going to be a problem; go with the best value for your money. In this poor example, the T300GT is the way to go. With both options, you get the T3PA with the conical brake mod. Yes the TX has a better feeling wheel rim, but the T300GT has more functionality with it's wheel rim.
Even after getting the T300GT, and if your primary racing console is the Xbox; using the Drive Hub is pretty painless. It's better to save money where you can since you'll have it for either console.
NOW... What I'd do, is run the CSR setup, buy the CSL PS4 base, and go from there. Why spend the money and time, unless you plan on keeping the Thrusty setup?
What I'm actually doing...
I plan on running my basic CSR setup, and sometime in the spring I will buy a Club Sport base, BMW rim, V3 CSP's, CSS and mounting brackets for both the wheel and the shifter. Being that I already have a Drive Hub, I could care less about getting an officially compatible wheel rim or wheelbase.
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- 564
- Aliso Viejo, CA
- Renown787B
So I got my Drivehub the other day. Finally had a chance to really try it out last night with some extensive testing on my PS4/FANATEC gear situation.
I currently own a FANATEC CSW V2.0 wheelbase, BMW GT wheel rim, Formula wheel rim and Clubsport V2 peddles. I have only used this gear on my PS3 and most currently the PS4. The only two games in which this gear has worked natively is F1-2015 and Project Cars on the PS4. With all the new racing games coming out since these two titles, the native support was yanked by the software developers as they were told by Sony to stop putting in the Fanatec SDK into their titles. As many of you know, this kind of sucked if you owned Fanatec gear, escpecially expensive gear. Well, thank goodness for this little Drivehub device!! It works and it works VERY well. First off, if you own a Fanatec CSW 2.0 or even the newer 2.5, do yourself a favor. DO NOT USE THE FANALOGIC MODE (default setting of the Drivehub) if the game supports the new FANATEC CSL ELITE. Switch it to Fanatec native mode. Stop what you are doing and do it now. Keep in mind, the native Fanatec model will only work with F1-2017, Project Cars 2 and hopefully Assetto Corsa soon. Hopefully GT Sport too!! F1 2017 and Project Cars 2 have official Fanatec CSL Elite SDK/Drivers in the game. F1-2016 does not and will not from what is understood. You will have to use FANALOGIC mode if you want to play this game with your Clubsport Base. Moving on...I tried F1 2017 using FANALOGIC mode. I did not like this mode for this title. I just wanted to try it to see what the difference was. And there is a difference! It's way too violent and the forces are way too abrupt. I have never seen my CSW wheelbase shake so violently. I had to change the FFB settings within the game just to make the game more fun to drive. With the right tweaks the FANALOGIC mode will work just fine, but if there's official support for FANATEC wheels, it's best to use FANATEC native mode. Once I did that, the stock game FFB settings were butter smooth and almost perfect for my tastes and what I'm used to, having used this gear in F1 2015. Having said that. I can honestly say the wheel support in F1-2017 is a noticeable improvement over past F1 games. Thanks to the Drivehub, I can now once again enjoy quality gear on the PS4.
Note: I have the most current Fanatec 299 firmware on my base and the latest firmware on the Drivehub. On other forums some people reported having to go back on the firmware to make the Drivhub work, but I have found that the latest firmware works perfectly.
I currently own a FANATEC CSW V2.0 wheelbase, BMW GT wheel rim, Formula wheel rim and Clubsport V2 peddles. I have only used this gear on my PS3 and most currently the PS4. The only two games in which this gear has worked natively is F1-2015 and Project Cars on the PS4. With all the new racing games coming out since these two titles, the native support was yanked by the software developers as they were told by Sony to stop putting in the Fanatec SDK into their titles. As many of you know, this kind of sucked if you owned Fanatec gear, escpecially expensive gear. Well, thank goodness for this little Drivehub device!! It works and it works VERY well. First off, if you own a Fanatec CSW 2.0 or even the newer 2.5, do yourself a favor. DO NOT USE THE FANALOGIC MODE (default setting of the Drivehub) if the game supports the new FANATEC CSL ELITE. Switch it to Fanatec native mode. Stop what you are doing and do it now. Keep in mind, the native Fanatec model will only work with F1-2017, Project Cars 2 and hopefully Assetto Corsa soon. Hopefully GT Sport too!! F1 2017 and Project Cars 2 have official Fanatec CSL Elite SDK/Drivers in the game. F1-2016 does not and will not from what is understood. You will have to use FANALOGIC mode if you want to play this game with your Clubsport Base. Moving on...I tried F1 2017 using FANALOGIC mode. I did not like this mode for this title. I just wanted to try it to see what the difference was. And there is a difference! It's way too violent and the forces are way too abrupt. I have never seen my CSW wheelbase shake so violently. I had to change the FFB settings within the game just to make the game more fun to drive. With the right tweaks the FANALOGIC mode will work just fine, but if there's official support for FANATEC wheels, it's best to use FANATEC native mode. Once I did that, the stock game FFB settings were butter smooth and almost perfect for my tastes and what I'm used to, having used this gear in F1 2015. Having said that. I can honestly say the wheel support in F1-2017 is a noticeable improvement over past F1 games. Thanks to the Drivehub, I can now once again enjoy quality gear on the PS4.
Note: I have the most current Fanatec 299 firmware on my base and the latest firmware on the Drivehub. On other forums some people reported having to go back on the firmware to make the Drivhub work, but I have found that the latest firmware works perfectly.
- 2,841
- Massachusetts
- GBO-Possum
- 4,440
- zr1chris
- zr1chris
It's the latest, I believe 754 if I remember correctly. Make sure you controller is OFF. That happened to me the first time I tried it, then I noticed the DS4 was on and remembered it's supposed to be off. No problems since.
- 2,841
- Massachusetts
- GBO-Possum
- 4,440
- zr1chris
- zr1chris
- 332
- Bristow, VA
- spacecowboy73
- spacecowboy73
- 4,440
- zr1chris
- zr1chris
I'm running into a bit of an issue here. I'm playing PCars 2 with a PWTS. Problem I'm having is I seem to have no R1 and L1 in the menus. Those buttons should be mapped to the paddle shifters which work fine while racing but for some reason don't in the menus. The right paddle works same as the x button and I'm not sure about the left.
Any work around for this? Is it possible to hook up a 2nd DS4 to the accessory port on the Drivehub and use that when needing those buttons?
Right now every time I need to hit the R1 or L1 in the menus I need to turn on my 2nd DS4, sign in under my profile (disconnecting the wheel) Once that happens I need to close application and restart it using the wheel to get it working again. The other option is shutting off the wheel, Turn on the DS4, log in use the R1 or L1, turn off the controller again and turn the wheel back on. It's a big PITA right now.
Another idea I just thought while I was typing this.... If I hook my wheel up to the PC can I reconfigure the L3 and R3 buttons to work as a 2nd pair of L1 and R1 buttons? I never need them in any game. Very rare especially for a racing title.
Any work around for this? Is it possible to hook up a 2nd DS4 to the accessory port on the Drivehub and use that when needing those buttons?
Right now every time I need to hit the R1 or L1 in the menus I need to turn on my 2nd DS4, sign in under my profile (disconnecting the wheel) Once that happens I need to close application and restart it using the wheel to get it working again. The other option is shutting off the wheel, Turn on the DS4, log in use the R1 or L1, turn off the controller again and turn the wheel back on. It's a big PITA right now.
Another idea I just thought while I was typing this.... If I hook my wheel up to the PC can I reconfigure the L3 and R3 buttons to work as a 2nd pair of L1 and R1 buttons? I never need them in any game. Very rare especially for a racing title.
- 1,311
- US. North East region
zr1chris, Are you on PS4 and if so, do you have Fanatec mode enabled on the Drive Hub?
For me as an Xbox user, some of the buttons on my CSR doesn't work in Fanalogic mode, but they register in Fanatec mode.
For me as an Xbox user, some of the buttons on my CSR doesn't work in Fanalogic mode, but they register in Fanatec mode.
- 4,440
- zr1chris
- zr1chris
I am on the PS4 and I believe I'm still in Fanalogic mode.
rankings18
Premium
- 242
- California
- rankings18b
- 3
- United States
can someone please tell me how to make it work. I have xbox one and t300gt, i have tried for two weeks, the wheel calibrates but nothing else works.
- 4,440
- zr1chris
- zr1chris
Yes
I have it posted somewhere but I'll post it again, step by step.
1. Turn on console
2. Make sure the controller is OFF
3. Plug the controller and wheel into the Drivehub
4. Turn on the wheel
5. Plug the Drivehub into the console
Now last with my Fanatec is hitting the select/back/share button. This puts it into PS or XBOX mode. Not sure if anything else is needed at this point for the T300.
- 3
- United States
