Driving Force Pro Force Feedback DIED

  • Thread starter Thread starter cheshirechap
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cheshirechap

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Well not exactly... however it's hitching up a lot. I don't have the pedal problems that other people have, but after the rally races I think one of the gears stripped or something inside the wheel broke. It's binding and clanking and generally not fun to drive anymore. Has anyone had this problem and fixed it? I hate sending stuff back to incompetent companies, I'd rather fix it right the first time.
 
If you live in the USA, call logitech. they have the best customer support EVER, in my opinion. :)
 
What are you worried about? Just buy a new one.
 
MCX
What are you worried about? Just buy a new one.
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Not everyone can spend over $100 just like that.


Send it to Logitech and get it fixed. 👍

While doing that, get on their site and check out their Momo race wheel.
 
Yeah but if you can spend $200 on a video game (GT$ plus DFP) then surely you can afford $350.

I'd probably call logitech.
 
They're sending me a new one and they told me to scratch off the serial and toss the old one. The new one will be here in 7-10 days. I took the old one apart today and took pictures figuring if I can fix it then I won't need to screw with all this again if one breaks. I'm not entirely sure what's binding yet, if I can fix it I'll write up a little fix. The magnetic motor's lost a few of its copper threads inside, but I don't think that's binding at all and that seems to still work. There's a bunch of gears and a track that the wheel is guided on which I got out before I saw The Ring 2(not good by the way). I'll try to work on it some more tomorrow.
 
cheshirechap
They're sending me a new one and they told me to scratch off the serial and toss the old one. The new one will be here in 7-10 days. I took the old one apart today and took pictures figuring if I can fix it then I won't need to screw with all this again if one breaks. I'm not entirely sure what's binding yet, if I can fix it I'll write up a little fix. The magnetic motor's lost a few of its copper threads inside, but I don't think that's binding at all and that seems to still work. There's a bunch of gears and a track that the wheel is guided on which I got out before I saw The Ring 2(not good by the way). I'll try to work on it some more tomorrow.
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wow did you just plug that movie in yer post ?
 
blu3s™
wow did you just plug that movie in yer post ?
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No, I was warning people from seeing it :yuck:
I felt like Arnold should've been playing the mother, it was more an action movie than a thriller.

Anyway, I've seen a few places where things could potentially go wrong with the wheel. One, the lube inside seems to suck so you might have to relube the gears. Two, the motor seems to take a lot of stress and I'm not sure how long it's going to hold up. If I can get some more info on it maybe there's a way to just buy the motor. And Three, the gears and what they fit into are all plastic, with spirited use I could see some of them wearing the fittings.
 
cheshirechap
No, I was warning people from seeing it :yuck:
I felt like Arnold should've been playing the mother, it was more an action movie than a thriller.

Anyway, I've seen a few places where things could potentially go wrong with the wheel. One, the lube inside seems to suck so you might have to relube the gears. Two, the motor seems to take a lot of stress and I'm not sure how long it's going to hold up. If I can get some more info on it maybe there's a way to just buy the motor. And Three, the gears and what they fit into are all plastic, with spirited use I could see some of them wearing the fittings.
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well actuallyalot of the stuff u said is untrue....the lub eon the gears doesnt actually do much but reduce the friction...and make it transition easier when going left and right

the motor is probably a low turn motor which can take the stress...if it were a higher turn motor it would not handle the constant left and righ to well

third the plstic gears are actually made top hold up quite well...i dont knwo if ur into th erc seen but plastic is used on stock cars and are available for hop up gears which are usually made of delrin plastic...a hard plastic and those engines turn at over 35,000 rpms so if it cant hold up to the steering wheel then i dont know what to say
 
devilman2075
well actuallyalot of the stuff u said is untrue....the lub eon the gears doesnt actually do much but reduce the friction...and make it transition easier when going left and right

the motor is probably a low turn motor which can take the stress...if it were a higher turn motor it would not handle the constant left and righ to well

third the plstic gears are actually made top hold up quite well...i dont knwo if ur into th erc seen but plastic is used on stock cars and are available for hop up gears which are usually made of delrin plastic...a hard plastic and those engines turn at over 35,000 rpms so if it cant hold up to the steering wheel then i dont know what to say
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I finished taking it apart with the exception of a few things.

The lube was rather thin on a few of my gears, and there was a glob on the bottom of the unit. Needless to say, one of the white gears was noisy which I fixed. I know the gears will hold up fine. One of them looked like it was hot glued into something though so I was curious about the fitting's reliability. It turned out to have a piece of metal in there after further examination.

The motor itself did NOT take the stress. The copper strands inside were shredded. I have no idea how that happened as I'm barely over 20% through the game and I'm not heavy handed. The motor housing is roughish and the holes in it may've caught on some of the strands, I can't tell entirely. I found more strands in various places inside the housing.

The biggest problem is the motor. I have two damaged parts(one fragile board piece broke off, but it's tiny and I could replicate it if needed. I have their part numbers. I'm not prepared to go any further with it though since I have a new one coming. There are two bearings on the assembly which I don't want to remove. They're on too tough to just pull off and I really don't want to use a bearing puller and then have to place them again correctly. I may take it up again later, but I just don't have to time to play with it further at the moment.
 
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