engine tune for max speed 500-550pp

[AlexFFM1991]

hey guys really often I meet people online wich use the same cars like me. The problem is that even when we have approximately the same weight and hp they are faster on straights and have a better acceleration. We use to race on nordschleife at 500pp with SS tyres. Some of em' say that the engine stage is important and others say that the turbo lv is relevant ..... I don't know to be honest. Is anyone here who knows the difference between this parts and wich one should I use to increase the top speed and acceleration ?
Cheers

 

[Cowboy]

hey guys really often I meet people online wich use the same cars like me. The problem is that even when we have approximately the same weight and hp they are faster on straights and have a better acceleration. We use to race on nordschleife at 500pp with SS tyres. Some of em' say that the engine stage is important and others say that the turbo lv is relevant ..... I don't know to be honest. Is anyone here who knows the difference between this parts and wich one should I use to increase the top speed and acceleration ?
Cheers

It's probably a matter of changing oil or adjusting downforce (provided you even have that).

 

[AlexFFM1991]

Hmm I don't use to put aero parts on the cars. Maybe i'll try an oil change.

 

[Lewis_Hamilton_]

Different parts add different amounts of horsepower and torque. The ecu, catalytic converter and exhausts will add the least amount of torque, but they add the most amount of horsepower per PP compared with the other parts. Check how each turbo affects the powerband of both the torque and horsepower, usually the high range turbo is good because it pushes the powerband further up the rev range, where you spend most of your time. Low and mid-range turbos add a lot of torque but not a lot of horsepower, and their power drops off often before you have reached the red line of your rev counter.

If you car doesn't require all the tuning parts to reach 500PP then experiment with the following - Choose a turbo and reach your desired PP level with minimal other engine parts installed. Make a mental note or write down how much horsepower and torque you have, the power to weight ratio, maximum RPM and approximate width and range of the power band. Now uninstall the turbo and this time add different engine parts to reach 500PP again. Try what I recommended above with the ecu, CC and exhausts first, then add the other parts if needed.

Now view your HP, Torque, P/W ratio, RPM and powerband and compare it with the turbo set up. Weigh out the pros and cons of both statistically and out on the track. I often favor the set up that gives the least torque but the most horsepower, that is what will give you the better top speeds in my experience.

Final tip is to make your car as close to 900kg in weight as is possible, this is where the peak point of the power to weight ratio is in the PP system.

 

[AlexFFM1991]

Different parts add different amounts of horsepower and torque. The ecu, catalytic converter and exhausts will add the least amount of torque, but they add the most amount of horsepower per PP compared with the other parts. Check how each turbo affects the powerband of both the torque and horsepower, usually the high range turbo is good because it pushes the powerband further up the rev range, where you spend most of your time. Low and mid-range turbos add a lot of torque but not a lot of horsepower, and their power drops off often before you have reached the red line of your rev counter.

If you car doesn't require all the tuning parts to reach 500PP then experiment with the following - Choose a turbo and reach your desired PP level with minimal other engine parts installed. Make a mental note or write down how much horsepower and torque you have, the power to weight ratio, maximum RPM and approximate width and range of the power band. Now uninstall the turbo and this time add different engine parts to reach 500PP again. Try what I recommended above with the ecu, CC and exhausts first, then add the other parts if needed.

Now view your HP, Torque, P/W ratio, RPM and powerband and compare it with the turbo set up. Weigh out the pros and cons of both statistically and out on the track. I often favor the set up that gives the least torque but the most horsepower, that is what will give you the better top speeds in my experience.

Final tip is to make your car as close to 900kg in weight as is possible, this is where the peak point of the power to weight ratio is in the PP system.

Trank you very much
Very Professional

 

[eran0004]

Provided that you have the same car, power and weight, it's probably one or more of these:

• Your power curve is peaky AND your gears are spaced too far apart
  Peaky power curves (typically, low torque and high power) requires closely spaced gears in order for the engine to run for as much time as possible at the RPM where it delivers the most power. If the gears are spaced too far apart, the engine drops too much in RPM when you shift up and since the power curve is peaky you lose a lot of power.
  
  Closer gears: If you make the first gear taller (smaller number) the top gear shorter (bigger number) and adjust the gears in between to be fairly equally spread, you get a basic close ratio gearbox. Even if your power curve isn't very peaky, a close ratio gearbox will still provide some performance boost, although the difference it makes diminishes the flatter the power curve is. If you've got a totally flat power curve (like you get when you use the power limiter at, say, 50-80%) a close ratio gear box doesn't provide any benefit at all compared to the default gearbox.
  
  Flatter power curve: You can also try to make the power curve less peaky by increasing the torque (typically by installing a stage 1 or 2 turbo or a supercharger, or by limiting a high power engine with the power limiter). This will raise your PP rating though and might not be the best option if you're already at the PP limit.
  
  
• You're shifting too early or too late
  If the power drops a lot after a certain RPM, it could cost you a lot of power to shift up too late. Same thing can apply if you shift up too soon, before you've reached peak power.
  
  
• You're using traction control
  Traction control is a parasite that feeds on power It cuts the throttle to prevent wheel spin, so unless you absolutely need traction control it's best to turn it off.
  
  
• You have installed a flat floor
  Flat floors creates a ton of downforce. They also create a ton of drag, which reduces your high speed acceleration.

 

[AlexFFM1991]

Provided that you have the same car, power and weight, it's probably one or more of these:

• Your power curve is peaky AND your gears are spaced too far apart
  Peaky power curves (typically, low torque and high power) requires closely spaced gears in order for the engine to run for as much time as possible at the RPM where it delivers the most power. If the gears are spaced too far apart, the engine drops too much in RPM when you shift up and since the power curve is peaky you lose a lot of power.
  
  Closer gears: If you make the first gear taller (smaller number) the top gear shorter (bigger number) and adjust the gears in between to be fairly equally spread, you get a basic close ratio gearbox. Even if your power curve isn't very peaky, a close ratio gearbox will still provide some performance boost, although the difference it makes diminishes the flatter the power curve is. If you've got a totally flat power curve (like you get when you use the power limiter at, say, 50-80%) a close ratio gear box doesn't provide any benefit at all compared to the default gearbox.
  
  Flatter power curve: You can also try to make the power curve less peaky by increasing the torque (typically by installing a stage 1 or 2 turbo or a supercharger, or by limiting a high power engine with the power limiter). This will raise your PP rating though and might not be the best option if you're already at the PP limit.
  
  
• You're shifting too early or too late
  If the power drops a lot after a certain RPM, it could cost you a lot of power to shift up too late. Same thing can apply if you shift up too soon, before you've reached peak power.
  
  
• You're using traction control
  Traction control is a parasite that feeds on power It cuts the throttle to prevent wheel spin, so unless you absolutely need traction control it's best to turn it off.
  
  
• You have installed a flat floor
  Flat floors creates a ton of downforce. They also create a ton of drag, which reduces your high speed acceleration.

The first point seems to be quite interesting. I had a similar idea but didn't have the time to test it by myself. Thx for the detailed description now i think I got it.
Aero parts are not installed and I use to drive without any electronical help often also without abs

Thanks a lot

 

[Sick Cylinder]

For maximum acceleration try this tip - if you are getting wheelspin when you first leave the line set first gear as high as possible, but still low enough that you get wheelspin. Then set second gear relatively close to first gear - and relatively far from third gear - I find that this setup gives the best acceleration off the line with the tyres that I use - comfort or sports.

Test your acceleration on a suitable test track - @eran0004 has a short straight track which he made and shared which I use for checking acceleration.