F1 Replica - mounting a Logitech wheel without the casing?

  • Thread starter gordie44
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Hi guys,

I am in the planning stages of a replica Formula 1 car Sim Rig build.

I am trying to get the specs as realistic as possible, while trying to conserve costs at the same time.

To conserve costs, I am looking at a G27 or DFGT to use as a wheel, as I sell these at my work and can buy them at cost. I will most likely modify the wheel rim later on to resemble a F1 rim.

I am asking about mounting the wheel without a case because if I want to be close to specs, there will be VERY little room, any space saved will be worth it, as seen in this amazingly interesting video:

Formula 1 car cut in half

I also want to make sure that the wheel rim face is perpendicular (90 degrees) to the ground, and combined with the tight space, it seems that mounting without the case is the best/only option. Here is a video of the dis-assembly of a DFGT. It appears that I could just mount the PCB nearby and use the existing bolt holes on the metal bracket to mount the wheel to the cockpit. I don't need the sequential as it will be a current F1 car replica. (however with F1 2012 possibly having classic F1 cars as DLC I may end up putting a home-made Sequential in. ...hehe :sly:)


The only other thing I figured could work was using a steering column extension (made of aluminium) to put the base ahead of my feet (behind the pedals). But I have had this discussion on here before, and it seems that unless I ramp up the FFB motors considerably, (at the cost of $1000+!) the FFB would be more or less non-existant using this method.


If this interests you, please let me know your thoughts and/or ideas!
 
I've had my G27 apart to remove the table clamps and was thinking something similar to what you talking about for an updated rig. I was thinking of flipping the G27 upside down and resetting the rack so the wheel is right way up. This way you could remove the current cover and save a fair amount or real estate.

Oh, and with the table clamp removed, I now mount off two of the chassis screws. So I think you could do a quite low profile scheme, while keeping the guts at the wheel.
 
as standard F1 cockpit dimensions shown, you get very thight space between wheel and your legs
approximatively 350 mm of height
i m planning to get wheel for my F1 cockpit aswell
you r planning to build a real replica of modern F1 right?
i think you should have priority about ergonomics overall
bucket seat, nose dimensions...
all these things correlate with you
then you must figure out good ergonimics overall
img1094fn.jpg

regarding G27 dimensions and nose space, you can see space between wheel and ur supposed legs
the previous owner of my F1 cockpit is certainly taller then me, i have some difficulties to reach the bottom of nose where pedals are supposed to be there.
to sum up
- make realistic measurements according your height
- adapt dimensions for any further wheels

i do not recommend you for mouting PCB wheel cockpit, flexible system to add / remove whatever you want
 
I was thinking of flipping the G27 upside down and resetting the rack so the wheel is right way up. This way you could remove the current cover and save a fair amount or real estate.
I think you could do a quite low profile scheme, while keeping the guts at the wheel.

This is a pretty good idea, I have not seen it done anywhere before, have you seen a tutorial or know of someone who has successfully done this? I think if the guts are hanging down I would need some sort of cover (edit: smaller, homemade cover, plexiglass?) over them, to prevent my knees from knocking the important bits about.

i do not recommend you for mouting PCB wheel cockpit, flexible system to add / remove whatever you want

This is a good idea, I will need to design some sort of way to pull the wheel out without too much trouble. I was not thinking of putting the PCB in a totally different place, probably just mounting it on the same board as the wheel 'brackets'

as standard F1 cockpit dimensions shown, you get very thight space between wheel and your legs
approximatively 350 mm of height

Here is a very rough sketch (excuse the use of Paint, I'm rotten with Google Sketchup) incorporating some of the 2012 F1 Regulations as seen from side view only. A lot of these are MAX values, they of course don't have to be that high, and some values will need to be tailored to myself.
F1Plan-1.jpg


^^^^^A fairly glaring error I have noticed so far is the "hook" underneath the car, I put it much too far back, it is supposed to extend to the rear edge of the front tyre.


you r planning to build a real replica of modern F1 right?

YES! :dopey:


i think you should have priority about ergonomics overall
bucket seat, nose dimensions...
all these things correlate with you
then you must figure out good ergonimics overall

I will need to figure out some way of getting said dimensions measured out....:nervous:
However, to be completely accurate in creating the replica, I need to pay more attention to the regulated measurements than what feels the most comfortable.

The hardest part will be creating a good bucket seat. The best inspiration I have gotten so far is from this gentleman's vintage Formula 1 replica rig, the Tyrell P34

to sum up
- make realistic measurements according your height
- adapt dimensions for any further wheels

I'm not sure that I would be changing the wheel down the road but it makes sense to make that part of it adjustable. I would love to add some Clubsport V2 pedals down the road as the DFGT are much lacking, but can't afford Fanatec Wheels and want it to be compatible on PS3.


Thanks guys for your input!
 
Last edited:
Thank you Gordie for that dimentional sketch, that was extremely helpfull!

No problem! :)

It is still rough work, I haven't gotten all the way through the regulations yet, and a lot of it is hard to decipher without having a drawing/model in front of you.

Here is the link for a PDF download of the regulations. You can also find a version on the F1 website, but it doesn't have the definitions and is not complete all in one place like the pdf.

I'll update the sketch with more figures when I get more time, as well I'll make a top view. :)
 
Meh, I dont think the height of the drs rear wing or double diffuser is necessary, you got all the important measurements needed for a sim cockpit build here.
 
This is a pretty good idea, I have not seen it done anywhere before, have you seen a tutorial or know of someone who has successfully done this? I think if the guts are hanging down I would need some sort of cover (edit: smaller, homemade cover, plexiglass?) over them, to prevent my knees from knocking the important bits about.



This is a good idea, I will need to design some sort of way to pull the wheel out without too much trouble. I was not thinking of putting the PCB in a totally different place, probably just mounting it on the same board as the wheel 'brackets'



Here is a very rough sketch (excuse the use of Paint, I'm rotten with Google Sketchup) incorporating some of the 2012 F1 Regulations as seen from side view only. A lot of these are MAX values, they of course don't have to be that high, and some values will need to be tailored to myself.
F1Plan-1.jpg


^^^^^A fairly glaring error I have noticed so far is the "hook" underneath the car, I put it much too far back, it is supposed to extend to the rear edge of the front tyre.




YES! :dopey:




I will need to figure out some way of getting said dimensions measured out....:nervous:
However, to be completely accurate in creating the replica, I need to pay more attention to the regulated measurements than what feels the most comfortable.

The hardest part will be creating a good bucket seat. The best inspiration I have gotten so far is from this gentleman's vintage Formula 1 replica rig, the Tyrell P34



I'm not sure that I would be changing the wheel down the road but it makes sense to make that part of it adjustable. I would love to add some Clubsport V2 pedals down the road as the DFGT are much lacking, but can't afford Fanatec Wheels and want it to be compatible on PS3.


Thanks guys for your input!
i dont think so CSP V2 would be fit in such cockpit
nose space is slighly tight, you need to remove pedals from the base
and unless i might be wrong, you cannot remove CSP pedals from the base
CSR Elite Pedals do :)
 
after getting new wheel and pedals and from my own cockpit which is a replica of Ferrari

pedals are too big from 1 cm of each side
wheel + base (mine is gt3rs) take alot of space and like mostly, my leg will be stuck when i install wheel in the cockpit

there is not enough space between your legs and wheel (i dont have for now a F1 wheel which is little smaller than a standard wheel)

i think adding steering columm direction wasnt a bad idea but the lack of ffb, hell no :ouch:
 
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