Fanatec CSR settings

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deadlydc

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DeadlyDC
I just thought I'd share my wheel settings, since the latest update.
I've tried lots of different 'recommended' settings on the wheel, as well as for the in game game menu.
So far,the best for me are,

wheel settings

SEN 270
FFB 60
all other settings unchanged

ingame assists

steering - normal (i.e. not simulation)

advanced settings

inside dead zone - 0
outside dead zone - 100

I don't use any other assists, and after researching other forums 'fm.net', I found the above settings.
So far I had great feadback through the wheel, as well as some good times, usings these settings.
if anyone else would like too share what's working for them, please post here.:)
 
Sen. 270
FFB 90
Sho 70
Abs 65
Everything else 0 or off.

Sim steering

I don't notice any problems with the sim steering at 270 deg. If I bump up to 540 or 900 then it becomes apparent. But I typically run at 270 for any sims besides F1.

All in all I can't complain about this little steering bug at all considering how much of a nightmare DiRT 3 configurations were.
 
Hey guys, I need some help with these settings. I'm used to the g27 wheel on GT5 where I get more of a response with my sensitivity. Here's the thing, I have my sensitivity at 900, because the manual pdf here says that that's the wheel rotation that will be used in game and cars have the 900 degree rotation capability. I'm looking at the linearity settings, does anyone use this setting? The description of its uses are confusing, but basically it states, "If you like to have the precision around the center of a large steering angle (e.g. 900 degrees) but the advantage of fast movements of a short angle (e.g. 180 degrees) you can change the linearity of the steering axis." Does that mean that the sensitivity will raise in the early movements, but still have the capability of 900 degree rotation?

Basically I'm looking to get the wheel to drive exactly like the g27, because that's what I'm used to. I'm sure other people have had the same problem and if anyone else had that problem please let me know what your settings are to simulate the g27.

Thanks!
 
I have
900 degrees of rotation
FFB at 80
shock at 100
drift at 2
normal steering
 
GymRat
Basically I'm looking to get the wheel to drive exactly like the g27, because that's what I'm used to.
Click to expand...
Me too, this is what I use so far but I'm still experiencing:

Sen 270
Lin 30
FFB 50
Sho 100
Abs 50
Anything else 0
 
I viLe styLe I
Sen. 270
FFB 90
Sho 70
Abs 65
Everything else 0 or off.

Sim steering

I don't notice any problems with the sim steering at 270 deg. If I bump up to 540 or 900 then it becomes apparent. But I typically run at 270 for any sims besides F1.

All in all I can't complain about this little steering bug at all considering how much of a nightmare DiRT 3 configurations were.
Click to expand...

I'm gonna try your settings out man, just to test vs. 900 degree mode.

Jerome
 
If you turn down FF on the wheel you are losing some of the effects, turn it back to 100 and reduce it in game and you will feels more information being transmitted to the wheel. I have it set to 80 in the game but am considering raising since the firmware upgrade.
 
Knight of Redem
If you turn down FF on the wheel you are losing some of the effects, turn it back to 100 and reduce it in game and you will feels more information being transmitted to the wheel. I have it set to 80 in the game but am considering raising since the firmware upgrade.
Click to expand...

How is the new firmware(737) working for you, I've read about complaints
on the spr setting being to agressive on the CSR (not elite). I downloaded
it but have'nt flashed it yet. I really want to try the ACL but I'm one of
those "if it ain't broke don't fix it".Plus after reading about complaints it
makes it harder for me to justify updating it.

Just wondering if anyone has come up with good settings for it with the
new firmware.
 
There have been far too many complaints about the new firmware for us CSR owners for me to bother going through the extreme trouble of updating the wheel. Which is too bad because it still randomly disconnects from the 360 far too often.
 
I have'nt had any disconnects yet(knocks on wood) but once in awhile my pedals
stop working. I just have to power down unplug/replug the ps2 cable and they work.
it does'nt happen very often thou. Thanks for your imput on the firmware.
 
I updated my CSR to 737, went smooth (unlike 706, that was a pain). I tried the 270 degree mode and it's too sensitive for my tastes, so I put it back to 700 and I do 900 for R1+ typically (if I remember to :lol:)

Jerome
 
so its working ok for you. If so your the first one I've heard that likes it, and I'm glad it works for you. I hate the idea of flashing mine, specially when it says you can void the warr. I'm hoping they fix it or come out with a new/better version. I have mine set at 540 (with 706). Thanks for your reply.
 
737 a great improvement, I had absolutely zero errors flashing it. I just think people complain when they can't follow directions. Fanatec does have a way to remove the firmware and replace it with an older one too should you run into any errors IIRC.

I would recommend it, the improvements are worth the 'risk' :rolleyes:

Plus, the steps required for this flash are Waaaay easier than flashing to 706, that was a nightmare (but it still worked!)

EDIT: 737 broke the default button (and pedals!) config on my ps3. Went back to 706, buttons worked again. Up to 737, buttons on ps3 don't work and then again back to 706, buttons and pedals work fine again. But FM4 works fine under any firmware (737 or 706) with out issue. Sounds like a little bug they need to work on :boggled:

EDIT2: As it turns out, you must press the ))) and < button together for 3 seconds or so, then do it Again for a second time and the blue dot will appear and the button maps (and wheel!) work just fine with 737.

Jerome
 
Well, I said screw it and flashed to the latest firmware.

No problems as of yet. Auto-clutch in Forza is a nice feature.

One thing I have noticed:

Now if you set/turn on ABS (brake lock up point) vibration the wheel will no longer vibrate when the accel pedal is pressed. This just took me the longest time to figure out lol. I am sitting here like "Oh god I broke my wheel." Long story short it escaped me for almost a full day before I realized what was going on.

Not quite sure if I like the change to be honest....

I personally could differentiate between the accel vibration and the brake lock up point vibration. It could potentially lead to better FFB in turns but I will have to give it some more time. I have been trouble shooting getting this damn wheel to work with various games on PC.

But just to let you guys know.... That's the only thing that I have noticed is different.

If you don't want this feature I suggest staying where you are at.

In fact, personally, I would flash back immediately if it weren't for the auto-clutch. Guess I am going to have to nag Thomas to turn back on accel vibration. Or at least give us the option in the settings. Of course, if a moderator were to nag it might hold more sway.... ;)

Just to clarify: Say you have setting 1 with ABS @ 55 and setting 2 with ABS @ OFF. Setting 1 will have abs and no accel vibration and setting 2 will have accel vibration and no abs vibration.

And ya, I swear 270 has gotten more sensitive since the launch of the wheel. I can now go no lower than 420-540 in street/track cars. Could just be that I am rusty, but I can still race rally and F1 on 220/70. I don't know.
 
Thanx for the update..Been watching this for a while to see if I want to do this. But what is "auto-clutch"????? I use my clutch pedal and sequential/paddle shifter
 
katpeeler
Thanx for the update..Been watching this for a while to see if I want to do this. But what is "auto-clutch"????? I use my clutch pedal and sequential/paddle shifter
Click to expand...

Auto-clutch maps the "A" button (default clutch in Forza) to be engaged while changing gears. This drastically decreases shifting time for those of us who are only using paddles. I do not have a 6 speed shifter yet and using the clutch and paddles feels extremely weird. Cars that have paddles typically shift much faster than their 5/6 speed counterparts. This kind of levels the playing field allowing us to utilize the increase in speed associated with "manual w/ clutch." Of course this would still work with those of you who do indeed have a 5/6 speed shifter. Don't know why you would want to though lol.

Have yet to try it in other games, not quite sure if it would work. If it is simply engaging the "A" button every time a shift is made then I would guess simply mapping your clutch to "A" in other games would work as well. If you have attempted this let us know.
 
Sooooo....right now my setup is with a pedal set that has a clutch pedal. And if understand what your telling me is that with the "auto clutch" firmware on the Fanatec wheel, I would not have to actualy engage my clutch pedal while shifting gears with paddles on the wheel or my sequental gear shifter??...Even with "manual w/clutch" enabled on Forza?....
 
I couldn't even begin to race any car with the SEN @ 270, it has to be 700 or higher for my taste.


Jerome
 
I'm using the same settings Darin Gangi from ISR uses.

SEN: 900
FF: 100
SHO: 100
DRI: 3
ABS: 65
LIN: 0
SPR: 0

This works great in both Forza 4 and GT5 for me.
 
katpeeler
Sooooo....right now my setup is with a pedal set that has a clutch pedal. And if understand what your telling me is that with the "auto clutch" firmware on the Fanatec wheel, I would not have to actualy engage my clutch pedal while shifting gears with paddles on the wheel or my sequental gear shifter??...Even with "manual w/clutch" enabled on Forza?....
Click to expand...

Yes, use manual with clutch and auto-clutch.


Jump_Ace
I couldn't even begin to race any car with the SEN @ 270, it has to be 700 or higher for my taste.


Jerome
Click to expand...

It's difficult to switch to when you're used to a wider radius. I race so much rally, F1, and GT class that it came easy for me. I like it for quick input and the ability to correct oversteer extremely fast.
 
MuoNiuLa
I'm using the same settings Darin Gangi from ISR uses.

SEN: 900
FF: 100
SHO: 100
DRI: 3
ABS: 65
LIN: 0
SPR: 0

This works great in both Forza 4 and GT5 for me.
Click to expand...

I'm running:

SEN: 700/900
FF: 100
SHO: 0
DRI: 0
ABS: 0
LIN: 0
SPR: 0

I guess I could try ABS at like 10 or something, but in FM4 having ABS on just kills your laptimes :( Would the same be true if I turned ABS on for my setup (CSR-E Pedals)?

Not sure what the DRI/LIN/SPR even do :lol:

Jerome
 
I don't think having the ABS on on your wheel would upset your lap times, if you
don't use ABS in the game there's no reason to have it on on your wheel.
 
For Forza 4, I'm using these settings:

SEN: 900
FF: 100
SHO: 100
DRI: OFF
ABS: 65
LIN: 30
DEA: 0
SPR: 1
DPR: -3

I can't remember if my steering is set to Normal or Simulation...I'm thinking Normal. Also, wheel settings in-game are 0 for inside and 100 for outside. I have a TH8RS shifter with an interfaceone adapter, too...but I don't remember my clutch settings.
 
recar deeps
I don't think having the ABS on on your wheel would upset your lap times, if you
don't use ABS in the game there's no reason to have it on on your wheel.
Click to expand...

Abs setting on the wheel doesn't have anything to do with using the abs setting in the game.

It simulates the lock up point (or a pressure before it) by vibrating the rim so you don't lock up the brakes. This can be used with or without the abs assist.
 
I suggest taking off the ABS on the game...Like was said if you have a wheel I find it almost cheating since you can set the pressure like you like so they wont lock up..

BTW I have been messing around with my setting and I have set my FFB from 50 to 100 and I realy like it. I can actualy feel what the car is doing. At the same time I ramped up my sensitivity to 300 and man that thing is touchy..dont see how yall can run it in the 900....I have been thinking of changing my in game settings from normal to simulation...But when I did it before the wheel the cars were to slippery...Should I try changing it again??
 

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