Fanatec GT2 settings in GT5

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Guys,

Previously I thought I'd got my Fanatec settings sorted, and was reasonably (if not completely) happy with how it performed in GT5. But now I know better, and I'm having a lot of trouble figuring out an ideal setting.

Background info:
I was using my GT2 wheel quite happily in GT5 with 5/10 in game, and 40-60% FFB on wheel depending on car driven. I had DPR/SPR on -3 and drift mode set to 3. However, since reading the article here: http://f-wheel.com/reviews/csr-elite-wheel-benchmarked I realised that the FFB setting on wheel is a "limiter" not a "scaling" setting.

In Forza 4 I switched to using 100% FFB on wheel and lower FFB in game, and it feels much better. The wheel spins a lot faster, such that you can often let go of the wheel, spin it, catch slides which were impossible when I was using lower FFB set on wheel. It really gets out of the way now, and yet you can still feels all the effects Forza has to offer without anything being overwhelmed.

I want this same feeling in GT5, but I can't figure out a good setting. I now realise that 5/10 in game and 50% on wheel greatly reduces the speed the wheel spins, so it doesn't "get out of the way" as it should do [note: I think this is probably because FFB% on wheel also limits the maximum rotation speed which is delivered by drift mode, but this is only my guess... not certain].
If I set 100% on wheel and use 3/10 in game, I mostly just get very heavy centering spring (despite SPR= -3 on wheel), it feels like many other effects are overwhelmed. Perhaps I should be trying 2/10 or even 1/10 in game, but if that's not the answer then I don't know where to head next....

What combination of settings are you guys using?
 
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For GT5 I use 100% FFB ingame,90% FFB on the wheel and driftmode off. With this setting the wheel has that movement on a straight, you know, that the wheel moves to the left and the right when driving straight.
I don´t know how to solve that, but the 100% and 90% settings gives you good FFB over all:)
 
For GT5 I use 100% FFB ingame,90% FFB on the wheel and driftmode off. With this setting the wheel has that movement on a straight, you know, that the wheel moves to the left and the right when driving straight.
I don´t know how to solve that, but the 100% and 90% settings gives you good FFB over all:)

To solve the left to right wobble add between 10 and 30 deadzone, which ever feels right.

As for wheel settings Scazz i'm using the following on the CSR Wheel

SEN 540
FFB 100
ABS 80
Lin 0
Dea 0
SPR 0
DPR 0

I use 7 in game for FFB

The reason I use no SPR is because I use the auto center spring in the driver menu, if I do try to use SPR as well as this feature it cancels out the driver option. Come to think of it I have never tried a positive setting instead of negative to see if that makes even more of a difference with the driver option enabled, may try this when i'm next on to see if there is better effects.

Edit: Others have posted a lot of different settings for their wheel here for different games, these may help you

http://f-wheel.com/settings
 
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Thanks for the very speedy reactions already :)

It looks like you guys simply have much higher forces set than me... I'm assuming that if I find 3/10 in game and 100% on wheel too much centering spring, going up to 7 or 9/10 will just make that unbearable?
But maybe the combination of this high setting but less drift mode would feel different?

Plato, what do you mean with "auto center spring" in the Fanatec driver menu? Surely that's only relevant for PC sims, and you are using a different preset within your Fanatec wheel for PS3 where it's not present?
 
Thanks for the very speedy reactions already :)

It looks like you guys simply have much higher forces set than me... I'm assuming that if I find 3/10 in game and 100% on wheel too much centering spring, going up to 7 or 9/10 will just make that unbearable?
But maybe the combination of this high setting but less drift mode would feel different?

Plato, what do you mean with "auto center spring" in the driver menu? Surely that's only relevant for PC sims, and you are using a different preset within your Fanatec wheel for PS3 where it's not present?

I found this option a while ago and tried it not expecting it to do nothing, but after having a go at GT with it I was amazed at the quicker response for the wheel in returning to center, it also felt like it improved the FFB.

To make sure I wasn't going crazy I mentioned it to the guys here and Hawk gave it a go, he also noticed there was a difference and that this option didn't just work with the PC. Hawk at first thought the difference was very noticeable, but then experimented and was under the impression there wasn't much difference from changing the SPR on the wheel.

I do think there is a bigger difference using this compared to SPR, but if you are going to use it instead of the wheel settings (SPR) do not adjust SPR on the wheel as it will only cancel out the driver option. Like said I haven't tried using a positive SPR on the wheel to see if it improves things further, but it may be worth a go.

I think most thought I was going crazy about the option in the driver menu making a difference, glad others tried it to prove I wasn't going mad :lol:
 
Okay, some of the settings i see here are probably giving extremely unrealistic driving experiences with the Fanatec GT2. I have been tinkering meticulously, read many threads including Sonac's super review of the FFB (Great Read!) and have found an ideal setup for most every roadcourse. Now this is for road cars and exotics, not racing cars. All cars will have slightly different steering rotation and damper but otherwise these are fairly universal across the board. I use 7-9 FFB in game with all aids off and ABS set at 1. I drive with the CSR Elite pedals clutch engaged and CSR H-pattern for the most part, paddles when im in an exotic of course hehe Thanks and I hope this makes for a happy day today! ;D Cheers guys!

SEN 850-900
FFB 100
ABS 70
Lin 0
Dea 0
SPR 0
DPR 0
 
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Thanks for the tips guys. I did lots more testing and found something I like, although it's not exactly the same direction as you (then again, the GT2 has a heavier rim than the CSR and feels more sluggish).

I ended up with the following in GT5:
In game FFB 5/10 (any lower and I think FFB information starts to disappear)
On wheel FFB 100 (for road cars, but it's a bit too firm now for racecars)
SPR/DPR -3
Drift mode 5
ABS 65
Lin/Dea 0

Unexpectedly, moving up from drift mode 2 to 5 made the wheel much freer moving without changing anything else. Now I have the subtle effects but wheel damping is as minimal as possible. Just what I was after.
 
Thanks for the tips guys. I did lots more testing and found something I like, although it's not exactly the same direction as you (then again, the GT2 has a heavier rim than the CSR and feels more sluggish).

I ended up with the following in GT5:
In game FFB 5/10 (any lower and I think FFB information starts to disappear)
On wheel FFB 100 (for road cars, but it's a bit too firm now for racecars)
SPR/DPR -3
Drift mode 5
ABS 65
Lin/Dea 0

Unexpectedly, moving up from drift mode 2 to 5 made the wheel much freer moving without changing anything else. Now I have the subtle effects but wheel damping is as minimal as possible. Just what I was after.

I am using the same settings, Drift at 5 is great, except for in game FF, I have mine at 7
Those settings make the wheel react faster and give better control on reacting to oversteer, easy to check with the Yellow Bird. Overall feels more like the real thing.:)
Other difference I put sen at off, letting the game apply the degree of rotation, most of the time it equals 900 anyway.
 
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Not trying to resurrect a dead thread here, but I just want to post in the correct place regarding a question I have.

Being that GT does not officially support this wheel in GT5, or the new GT6 demo, how can I button map my sequential gear lever so that pushing forward downshifts, and pulling back upshifts?

I went through every wheel option and they are all set to this, but when I play, its still opposite. Has anyone figured this out? Is it possible?
 
You might have sequential shifter that was wired incorrectly if its an external Fanatec sequential shifter you are referring to. There was a batch of them back in the day that went out incorrectly wired.

In GT5, the Logitech Driving Force Pro profile is used to map buttons for all Fanatec wheels.
 
You might have sequential shifter that was wired incorrectly if its an external Fanatec sequential shifter you are referring to. There was a batch of them back in the day that went out incorrectly wired.

In GT5, the Logitech Driving Force Pro profile is used to map buttons for all Fanatec wheels.

Holy hell are you serious? Damn I didn't know about that. Thanks for the info.
 
Yes, its easy to open, there are screws on one side of it, then reverse the two sets of wires inside, be careful, because they are delicate, give me a few, will try to dig up a post about it with pics.
 
Yes, its easy to open, there are screws on one side of it, then reverse the two sets of wires inside, be careful, because they are delicate, give me a few, will try to dig up a post about it with pics.

Awesome. Thanks a mil!!
 
Here you go, see this link on the Aussie OZFM sim site, has pics too.

If you have a CSR sequential it will be identical, only the knob, shifter shaft, and gloss black finish are different from the standard sequential shifter.

img_3010.jpg
 
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Here you go, see this link on the Aussie OZFM sim site, has pics too.

If you have a CSR sequential it will be identical, only the knob, shifter shaft, and gloss black finish are different from the standard sequential shifter.

You rock! Will let you know if I succeed or fail lol.
 
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