FF Tuning Pointers

  • Thread starter JHelfrich
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Hello, I'm new here and I've been playing GT4 and keep running into problems with driving FF cars. I wasn't able to find any threads that addressed this and the tuning guides at the top didn't really help me.

I was wondering if anyone had some general pointers on how to:

A) Reduce front tire wear. My front tires are turning yellow and my rear tires are barely light blue. Is there a way to wear them equally or do I just need different tire grades for front and rear?

B) Reduce understeer in corners.

I could also use pointers on any techniques for FF driving. Most of what I've learned using FR cars doesn't apply.
 
There are many threads for specific cars. They can act as a general guideline...

A.) Sorry, it's a fact of life, with braking and acceleration both heavily dependent on the front tires, and with 60% or more of the weight of the car on the front axles, tire wear will always be worse for the front tires on an FF. A different tire grade would not be a bad idea, but putting harder tires in front will tend to exacerbate understeer. I usually just adapt my driving style to the tire wear problem.

B.) This is easy, by stiffening the rear sway-bar and springs, the car will tend to neutral-steer or oversteer when you lift the throttle midcorner. Under power, though, an FF will usually understeer, and the more powerful the car, the worse it is. Some other quick fixes include increasing front camber/decreasing rear camber, adjusting front/rear spring rates, adjusting the "rake" of the car (front-rear height difference).

We're having a debate in this thread about the applicability of real-world tunes in regard to spring rates for understeering/oversteering cars, read that, too: "Have we been fooled"

Aside from the stickies up top in this section, you can look in the OLR section... some helpful threads:
LSD For FF Cars
Understeer

As for driving FF cars...

Generally, you brake later and take turns sharper and at lower speeds than FR cars. An FF car will have trouble with constant radius turns that FR cars can take at speeds, best to make them point-to-point, or you're going to be going around that curve for a looong time, understeering all the way, and killing your front tires in the process. Snap oversteer is your friend, as it gets the nose around quickly, just dab the brakes and turn in late, the car will point in the direction you want to go, and you can hit the throttle on the way out.

You have to be delicate with throttle application, and try not to lose too much speed, as you won't be able to pull out of the hole as quickly as an FR car.

Some advantages in driving an FF is that they're stable and usually easy to catch before a spin. They're often also small and nimble and work well on small courses. You'll never be as fast as a comparable FR in an FF car, but it'll be fun driving once you get used to it. Just remember: in an FF car, you can turn quickly and accelerate quickly, but you can't do both at the same time.
 
Will this advice work on a spoon civic hatchback? Because when i was racing in the FF races the same thing happens my front tires become yellow or even orange and my rear tires are jsut at green.
 
GiahYein
Does any one know how the civic in the Hot verson amercian touge video is tuned
?
Which Civic? There was a yellow EP Civic Si and an EG Civic. The yellow HASport Civic had a supercharger. The white EG had a K20A swap.

I've been learning to tune FF cars too. I used to have a high rear spring rate to get rid of understeer, but the rear end would bounce around. I was able to fix that by using a relatively low rear spring rate, and keeping the rear shocks higher than the front(rebound still > bound, though).

Traction was an issue for some of my more powerful cars(371hp SRT-4), and I found that using no camber all around helped. Handling was still okay, too. I guess my springs and stiffer rear stabilizers made up for it. Zero camber should help with tire wear issues, and no toe angle would make sense, too.
 
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