FF Tuning Thread

  • Thread starter iJDM14
  • 91 comments
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I will change this thread into the FF Tuning Thread...Rules go accordingly, if you post vulgar, bad, obscene, or racist posts / pics. You will be taken up with the moderator's. This thread will have all tuning involved with any car you are having problems with. If you want any specific settings, PM me at ekmatt9, this was my previous GTP name. Or AIM me at ekmatt9, or e-mail me at ekmatt9@yahoo.com Thanks.
 
Honda CIVC 1500 3door 25i '83

Parts to buy:
Racing Exhaust
Racing Chip
S2 Tires (Already Comes Equipped)
Stage 2 Turbo
Racing Brakes
Racing Suspension
Full Customize Transmission
Triple - plate Clutch
Racing Flywheel
Full Customize LSD

Mods:
Suspension:
Spring Rate - 6.0 - 5.0
Ride Height - 106 - 106
Shock (Bound) - 8 - 8
Shock (Rebound) - 8 - 8
Camber Angle - 2.5 - 0.5
Toe Angle - 0 - 0
Stabilizers - 5 - 5

Transmission - Auto Set 6

LSD - 25 - 60 - 17

Note!! Do not hit the corners at full throttle. The car will understeer tremendously. Real bad too! Hit the corners with half throttle, and then go all the way as soon as you turn out (meaning that you are about to exit the turn) Yeah, and if you have any problems with this car, please tell me and I'll change it.
 
iJDM14
Alright...I will be posting a lot JDM (Japanese Domestic Market) in this thread. I have mostly the Honda's right now. I'll be working on other cars. If you have any requests on FR or RR or AWD Cars...I can't do that for you. I have a specialty of drifting FR, MR, AWD cars, I tune FF cars though for grip...If you have a request, please PM if you'd like to. And if the moderator's decide to close this down, I just guess this thread wasn't meant to be :)

JDM means Japan Domestic Motor not Market...

http://www.japandomesticmotor.com/
 
iJDM14
okay...so in lsd put like 40 - 60 - 0?

lower it a bit if the engine isn't highly tuned but yeah, something along those lines.

if you want the right balance, play around with the numbers to see if you can get better balance.
 
DJ-CiviC
JDM means Japan Domestic Motor not Market...

http://www.japandomesticmotor.com/


Uhm... No. Japanese domestic Motor is a company. JDM is a term used for all kinds of things, such as, body kits, body parts, engine mods, whole engines, common cars (Such as Honda)... and so on. The DC5 for example is a "JDM" car... it's a dead stock Honda Integra Type R (Acura RSX). Just because you see ONE website with the M standing for Motor you think you know what you are talking about. :dunce:

Back on topic.

FF cars aren't the best for Grip racing mainly because they are front wheel. If you turn hard, your car will drastically lose power since the inside front wheel is seeing a lot of stress.... in other words, when you turn, your car will lose torque in on of the wheels.
 
i'm wondering if your rear settings for suspension should be stiffened to reduce wheelspin by preventing the front tires from unloading during hard acceleration on turn exits... :nervous:

i've listed the modificiations and settings for a '95 Civic (EG) i have set up for grip to compare notes... :dopey:

modifications:
racing exhaust
sports chip
Stage 1 NA tune
port polish
engine balancing
displacement up
racing super-hard tires (R1)
nitrous
racing brakes and controller
"original" suspension
custom transmission
triple-plate clutch
racing flywheel
wing
custom LSD
Stage 3 weight reduction
rollcage

settings:
nitrous: 100HP
brake controller: 3 / 3
suspension: spring rate 7.4 / 8.4, ride height 83 / 83, shock absorber 7 / 8, camber 2.5 / 0.5, toe angle 0 / -4, stabilizers 3 / 4
transmission: auto 11
driving aids: 0 / 0 / 0
downforce: 30 / 25
LSD: 20 / 40 / 20

what i get is a 227HP 915kg FF with that can dismantle corners and higher-powered cars with relative ease--even withouth the extra 100HP in nitrous... it can be turned fairly hard into a turn, have the brakes blipped to set the rear, and powered out of the corner using a lot of throttle with minimal wheelspin... with some aggressive driving, it can take down a Family Cup race at Nurburgring set to +10 for 200 A-spec points--of course i have to use nitrous for the last stretch, but hey, i'm running against Vipers and Zondas... :lol:

a lot of these setting will apply to the '83 Civic... hope some of it helps you set some faster laps... 👍
 
Sum1s2pid
i'm wondering if your rear settings for suspension should be stiffened to reduce wheelspin by preventing the front tires from unloading during hard acceleration on turn exits... :nervous:

use the shock absorbers, not the springs.

i've personally had good results with high bound/low rebound.

using the springs will only induce understeer.
 
i'll set up a spare EG and try that then , dudjo... it's just that i've gotten good results with how i tune it too--the rear steps out comfortably before a turn and i don't much plow coming out of one... odd... but i'll give it a whirl on a sapre Civic... 👍
 
also, i found the default spring settings on an integra's original suspension surprisingly effective.

i thought it only worked with RWD cars until i tried a modded integra.0

the same seems to apply to stabilizers too.
 
any reccos for the 88 accord coupe? it's the only one I can find anymore, and I'm allready at the year mark after 3 weeks.

don't forget the Honda City turbo II...i found a sleeper allready!
 
for fun i did a test of the recommended parts and settings for the '83 Civic... 10 laps practice against a ghost around Midfield "normal" using both B-spec Beavis (pace set to 3: "steady") and A-spec... oil change... driving-aids off... no chassis-refresh...

B-spec best lap: 1:35:229
A-spec best lap: 1:29:697


using the same parts and same gear-ratio--which was coincidentally quite good for this track--i altered only the suspension and LSD settings to best match what i used for my '95 EG Civic...

suspension: spring rate 7.4 / 7.6, ride height 106 / 106, shock bound 7 / 8, shock rebound 7 / 8, camber 2.0 / 1.0, toe angle 0 / -1, stabilizers 5 / 4

LSD: 20 / 40 / 20

B-spec best lap: 1:34:771
A-spec best lap: 1:29:320


the analyzer showed me carrying just a bit more speed through the corners and onto the straights... the time differences are small (just -0:00:458 B-spec and -0:00:337 A-spec) , but i just thought i'd check it out and share my findings... 👍
 
dudejo, i'm sorry if this seems like i'm flaming you, as this wasn't my intention--so i've apologized in advance... 👍

this is merely to help me understand a few things and share what i've learned... looking at your settings for the '90 CR-X screamed understeer based on "conventional" tuning methods... these methods suggest that if a car's suspension is set stiffer in the front and/or less stiff in the rear, there will be understeer... it will dive less into a turn and squat more coming out of a turn, resulting in understeer... if a car has harder tires in the front and/or softer tires in the rear, then it will understeer... stiffer stabilizers in the front and/or softer stabilizers in the rear will result in understeer...

so i did a little test around Midfield... i took your settings and did 10 laps both B-spec (pace setting 3 "steady") and A-spec... then i reversed your spring-rates and tires for 10 more laps B-spec and A-spec... i did 10 more laps B-spec and A-spec with the car's default Sports Medium tires for both of the above settings... and to further complicate things, i tried out the retuned settings for my EG Civic on Sports Medium tires B-spec and A-spec... the car was given an oil change and wash before the settings were changed...

:dunce: *in my haste to get these tests done, i realized that i neglected to install the Racing Flywheel and Triple-plate Clutch and typo'd some lap times... doh... the times listed below have been updated with corrections along with comments, as there were errors galore* :dunce:

Part 1:
suggested parts and settings:
B-spec best lap: 1:33.545
A-spec best lap: 1:26.076
* (good job on your posted 1:26:000, dudejo--i was so-o-o close)
*with only 10 laps to get to "know" the car, i could only do that best i could... but... the settings provided for a pretty stable and fast ride... that gap in the 2nd to 3rd gear shift going into the tunnel after the hairpin kept kicking my butt with wheelspin though*

suggested parts and settings, but with springs, stabilizers, and tires "reversed":
B-spec best lap: 1:33:088
A-spec best lap: 1:25:488

*no real surprises here... with the added grip of the Sports Soft tires up front, i expected the times to drop, but it was hard to tell if the suspension also played a part*

Part 2:
suggested parts and settings on Sports Medium tires:
B-spec best lap: 1:32:574
A-spec best lap: 1:25:288

*the car just felt better with the Sports Medium tires front and rear, as reflected in my improved times... but... Surprise #1: this was faster than the results from my second test*

suggested parts and settings on Sports Medium tires, but with springs, and stabilizers "reversed":
B-spec best lap: 1:33:926 *
A-spec best lap: 1:26:061

*just reversing the settings isn't the most scientific approach, but i just wanted to see something... B-spec hated this setting... Surprise #2: i was almost a full second slower than the previous time in A-spec*

Part 3:
suggested parts and settings, but with suspension, brake, LSD, and downforce adjustments as suggested with my EG Civic on Sports Medium tires:
B-spec best lap: 1:32:403 *
A-spec best lap: 1:25:220
*
*this little monkey-wrench i tossed into the works barely eeked out the fastest lap, proving to me that while dudejo's tuning might not follow conventional methods, they are nonetheless quite effective--his settings also proved to be more stable at the car's limits*

good job, dudejo--now i have to try and get a sub-1:26:000 time around Midfield in a '90 CR-X with Sports Hard tires, heheh... :dopey:

*fastest lap obtained in tests*
*slowest lap obtained in tests*

note: acutal results may vary as contents may settle during shipping... keep out of the reach of children...
 
hmmm...you had a faster lap with harder tires on the rear? odd. i was trying to keep the tire wear even but i guess it's just not worth it.

i preferred manual throttle control because using TCS, even with a minimal setting, killed my corner exit big-time.

on a side note, my time of 1:26.000 was actually a few milliseconds lower (meaning i broke the 1:26 barrier) but in my haste i forgot to check how much lower it was (wasn't much, maybe 0.03?) so i said screw it and rounded it up to 1:26.000.

it's good to know the settings themselves are good and not just my driving :)

nice test
 
no worries... like i said--i had thought the settings would equal massive understeer, but they didn't... i was ve-e-ery suprised, heheh... i might have to rethink my tuning... stable and fast beats squirelly and fast any day... 👍
 
from what i noticed, stiffening the side where the engine is usually improves the car.

although the more neutral cars like the NSX might not need to have a stiffer end.

and toe, afaik, is useless.

edit : i also have settings in the fastest laps section of this site (GT Mode Midfield) that beat Duck7832's time with his maxed out EP civic (his settings are in his stickied workshop topic).

i'm using a maxed out CR-X for that one. it also has a tighter LSD to compensate for the extra power and the base tranny because it's all you need (the last gear is JUST tall enough...barely)
 
rear-toe adjustments are supposed to allow the rear of the car to swing out during cornering--induce oversteer characteristics... it sacrifices straight-line stability for more aggressive low and medium-speed turns, but can be a bit of a handful on straights and high-speed corners if care is taken to make sure you're pointed more or less where you want to go, or it has the tendency to "wander" a bit... it was reasonable to assume that this would help out an understerring FF, but it didn't quite make the impact i had hoped... all the more reason to make me rethink my tuning...

and i don't know why i did this, but i needed a base point of reference to help me have a tuning goal--and it just heaped up some more salt on the wound...

10 more laps B-spec (pace stting 3 "steady") and A-spec... suggested '90 CR-X parts and settings, but with the suspension, LSD, and brakes set to "default"...

B-spec best lap: 1:31:876
A-spec best lap: 1:25:106


...doh... :dunce:
 
is that a test on your own civic?

i'll look into toe again a bit. after all, the default F1 settings have -6 on the back (and it's a MR)
 
dudejo, that was a test i did with the '90 CR-X... i used your suggested parts, transmission settings, and downforce, but kept the brake-controller, LSD, tires (Sports Medium), and suspension settings at their defaults... those times perplexed me... further tests i did with B-spec (pace setting 3 "steady") making one adjustments at a time in hopes of seeing some kind of progress further perplexed me...

the B-spec time with the above settings--again--was 1:31:876...

you'd think that lowering the ride-height would improve the time because the center of gravity would be lower and handling would be improved, right...? so i B-spec'd the above settings with only adjustments in ride-height (default is 133 front and rear)... well...

only lowered to 117 front and rear: 1:31:948...

only lowered to 99 front and rear: 1:32:045...

now granted i can make those times drop with further adjustments elsewhere to the suspension, but still... the simple act of lowering the car should've at least slightly improved the times--not make them slightly slower... i'm also aware that while B-spec drives like a retard, when it improves its times, i improve my times... and it's a quicker way for me to see improvements with a 10 lap test...

so i set about trying to only make adjustments that would make me faster than the default suspension, LSD, downforce, and brake settings... after a lot of fiddling--with more yet to come--i'm leaning towards the settings listed below before i put some Sports Hard tires front and rear to tackle your sub-1:26:000 time around Midfield:

brake-controller: default (still tinkering, but times suffered when i changed this)
springs: default (still tinkering, but times suffered when i changed this)
ride-height: default (times suffered when i changed this, so i'm leaving this alone)
bound and rebound: default (still tinkering, but times suffered when i changed this)
camber: 2.0 / 0.0 (still tinkering, but times slightly improved)
toe: 0 / -1 (still tinkering, but times slightly improved)
stabilizers: default (still tinkering, but times suffered when i changed this)
downforce: 30 / 25 (still tinkering, but times slightly improved when i changed this)
LSD: default (i have yet to make adjustments to this)

these settings are still being worked on, but have netted a 1:31:624...

as is, they should--should--let me A-spec a sub-1:25:000 with Sports Medium tires and a sub-1:26:000 with Sports Hard tires... i'm still tuning, though...

by the way--good call on the Sports Muffler, though dudejo... even though the horsepower and torque numbers are lower than that of the Semi-racing and Racing Mufflers, the maximum torque is available slightly lower in the RPMs for just the tiniest bit more grunt coming out of the corners... i just miss the Racing Muffler's shriek... 👍
 
personally, i think it's the chip upgrade that made the difference. the early versions of my setup didn't use it and felt a bit weak on the torque side.

also, i tried some of your tweaks.

i ended up keeping my original settings except for the rear tires. the SM tires helped a bit but the rest made the car too slippery over bumps to my liking.

however, raising the car DEFINITELY improved my time. i was doing 1:26.3xx on average and after the change to 105/105, i cut 1/2 a second off my time ON MY FIRST LAP. yes that means i have a new record :P

1:25.837 to be exact :)
 
it's a thread about FWDs so i don't see why not

would be nice to see how the bigger engined FWDs compare. besides, i personally think this car is a renamed Accord like the RSX is a renamed Integra.

and even though it's american, i wonder what people think of the Taurus SHO. i mean, a V8 coupled to a FWD train can't be THAT bad...right?

edit : i notice my setups get viewed on GTVault but no one votes for them :(

i guess they don't look impressive enough...
 
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