Finally took the plunge, Fanatec Clubsports ordered!! Any suggestions?

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Jav

Jav

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GTP__Jav
So after wresteling every 10 days to fix my standard pedal potentiometers I finally came up with the cash and order me a set of Clubsport pedals and tinning kit. I've been wanting to upgrade for a long long time and finally did it!
I'll be using them for GT5/iRacing, now do you guys have any advice on adjustments, settings, or wich springs to use?
Can't wait to get those sweet sweet pedals!!!
 
Personally, 30% stronger on gas. For clutch, I put on the normal spring out of the kit, and it felt much better than the stock one on the pedals. Also, moved brake bar up 1 notch for shorter throw, and more realistic braking(IMHO)

Here are a couple pics before and after mod

IMG-20110621-00025.jpg


IMG-20110627-00040.jpg


IMG-20110627-00039.jpg



Now, the only bit*h of it all is this little allen screw on the left, a pain to get in and out. Other than that, it takes 10 minutes max to make adjustments. And you can be VERY hands on with them.

IMG-20110623-00035.jpg


Good luck, and enjoy, I cut off 3-4 tenths at almost EVERY track after the pedal adjustments!
 
hey Jav what wheel / setup was you using for iRacing cause you was already coming in 1st place tearing stuff up! I wonder how much your lap times will improve?

Grats though I remember you were having gas pressure issues with the pots

were you using Fanatec gt3rs + standard pedals sounds like??
 
HOODFIELD
Did you see this? https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?t=129773 ;)
Click to expand...

AGP5000
Personally, 30% stronger on gas. For clutch, I put on the normal spring out of the kit, and it felt much better than the stock one on the pedals. Also, moved brake bar up 1 notch for shorter throw, and more realistic braking(IMHO)

Here are a couple pics before and after mod

IMG-20110621-00025.jpg


IMG-20110627-00040.jpg


IMG-20110627-00039.jpg



Now, the only bit*h of it all is this little allen screw on the left, a pain to get in and out. Other than that, it takes 10 minutes max to make adjustments. And you can be VERY hands on with them.

IMG-20110623-00035.jpg


Good luck, and enjoy, I cut off 3-4 tenths at almost EVERY track after the pedal adjustments!
Click to expand...
Thank's for the suggestion guys! very usefull information right there!
sandboxgod
hey Jav what wheel / setup was you using for iRacing cause you was already coming in 1st place tearing stuff up! I wonder how much your lap times will improve?

Grats though I remember you were having gas pressure issues with the pots

were you using Fanatec gt3rs + standard pedals sounds like??
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I'm using the Carrera wheel+standard pedals, just got fed up with all the issues and making costly mistakes due to the inconcistency of the brake pedals. Hopefully I'll get the pedals this week, still waiting on an email from Fanatec confirming the order, though I already recieved confirmation from PayPal. I'll keep you guys posted on how it goes!
 
Hi, might be worth trying, just remove CSK screws from back bar(that holds brake sensor block etc), ones that go into it from Footplates, & lift bar up & out (might spring a bit so carefully). Leave spacers etc on it. Don't have to mess with those pesky CSK's then, which are awkward to get at & to come out can be blocked.


Cheers BOB
 
bibio
Hi, might be worth trying, just remove CSK screws from back bar(that holds brake sensor block etc), ones that go into it from Footplates, & lift bar up & out (might spring a bit so carefully). Leave spacers etc on it. Don't have to mess with those pesky CSK's then, which are awkward to get at & to come out can be blocked.


Cheers BOB
Click to expand...

Thank's man!
Guys any tips for hard mounting them to the cockpit?

Also recieved an email from Fanatec this morning saying my order will ship today!! Thank you Fanatec! Hope they get here on Saturday though I dobt it...
 
Good 👍

Make sure to update us how much you feel if it improves your performance. My times really improved after I modded my t500rs brakes. much easier to drive with no abs now.
 
Will do! Hopefully I'll be able to modulate the brake easier now and eliminate the brake lock up from my driving!!
 
Congrats Jav, you'll speed up for sure!

Unrelated topic: What's the deal with everyone wanting to invert pedals for sim wheels? I have an old 911 (or 2 :sly:) and the pedals in those are not "inverted" they are just like the standard CSP layout (even down to pedal face angle)
I've driven a few (real) cars with "inverted" pedals, and I can say that I prefer the floor-mount 911-style pedals to pedals hung from an upper rotation bar, because with an "inverted" pedal you have to press differently because of how the pedal moves as it rotates, whereas with a floor-mount rotation bar you just roll your ankle down onto the pedal.
Why do people prefer the "inverted" style? Is it just that it's what you're used to?
 
Good question. I am also one that would like to know. Apart from the cool factor of doing the mod, would like to know the benefits?
 
Simply put they all just copy ChillyCoke's design, most real race cars use floor mounted pedals(whenever their particular class allows it). I am yet to see a Tilton pedal set to be firewall mounted.
At the end it all comes down to personalization I guess.
 
Now Jav, was the Nascar statement in your sig necessary? lol. I'm just bustin on ya, different strokes for different folks......... I get what people say about it, but there is so much more technically that goes on with the car that I am interested in than the racing itself. You think it's just 43 equal cars going in circles, it's a whole lot more than that.

And heck, the 2 road course races are awesome, I wish they would implement 1-2 more each year. But, from Nascar's stance(which is a moronic one) It brings the value down from the fans for not being able to see the whole track. I will admit, Nascar's superiors are ALL a bunch of idiots who are only worried about stuffing their pockets more than putting on a show for the fans..........

Sorry to get off topic, but never noticed it before lol.

To get back ON topic, if you shorten the throw on the brake up, and mess with the load cell, you can make your brake react like it would in real life. I have been a beast on road courses being able to hit turns at a much harder angle than most. But, my wheel has worn down a little to the left, so I am at support on that. I have only had it for a few months with LOW FF, like 30-40 avg.
 
Hi, regards brake pedal, iv'e only tried a few things.
Initially as bought (had them a bit ie plastic or nylon bushes in them, so whether new ones set up diff ?), & no tuning kit, brake pedal had too much play in it for me. Even after playing about with potensiometer, hard to get a quick reaction with a lot of brake force. But lots of range of brake force, with large pedal throw.
So i moved peg on pedal up a hole (be careful force to re assemble high, might turn your face a bit red etc), now it was easy to get on the brake & with lots of force. But now not as subtle with brake force, throw now very short. In fact potensiometer don't do much, had to have it all one way around (else brake pressure even on when not touching brake at all, i think ? forgot :) ). Anyway changed backed to original set up.

With tuning kit, iv'e set up as Delphic Reason ie pedal in original notch hole, but longer steel brake pressure pin & harder foam piece. To get a compromise of two setups above.
Havn't managed to test by actually driving, got to clear out room i use, stuff all over floor etc. But just pressing pedal & testing just pedals with PC SW, it looks promising ie between two setups already tried. Other way to try, at least for similar to above, is shorter steel pressure bar & move pedal up a notch. Prob a bit of difference between the two ways.
At least you can set up a few different ways for all the pedals. Left clutch as original, its stiff enough :) , but do you want real life Car (specific car maybe) or easy to push. Same with accelerator, but i have put stronger spring on that, only stronger accelerator spring thou. Don't fancy a work out :) , you might thou.

Cheers BOB

Edit, one thing, tuning kit ain't been a waste of time for me. Apart from new brass bushes, set up looks (& i should think, feels) better for me, than i would have got without it. Even with just a short mess with it.
 
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AGP5000
Now Jav, was the Nascar statement in your sig necessary? lol. I'm just bustin on ya, different strokes for different folks......... I get what people say about it, but there is so much more technically that goes on with the car that I am interested in than the racing itself. You think it's just 43 equal cars going in circles, it's a whole lot more than that.

And heck, the 2 road course races are awesome, I wish they would implement 1-2 more each year. But, from Nascar's stance(which is a moronic one) It brings the value down from the fans for not being able to see the whole track. I will admit, Nascar's superiors are ALL a bunch of idiots who are only worried about stuffing their pockets more than putting on a show for the fans..........

Sorry to get off topic, but never noticed it before lol.

To get back ON topic, if you shorten the throw on the brake up, and mess with the load cell, you can make your brake react like it would in real life. I have been a beast on road courses being able to hit turns at a much harder angle than most. But, my wheel has worn down a little to the left, so I am at support on that. I have only had it for a few months with LOW FF, like 30-40 avg.
Click to expand...
Lol!! The sig really means nothing, just a funny comment.
I will look into the throw adjustments for sure!

bibio
Hi, regards brake pedal, iv'e only tried a few things.
Initially as bought (had them a bit ie plastic or nylon bushes in them, so whether new ones set up diff ?), & no tuning kit, brake pedal had too much play in it for me. Even after playing about with potensiometer, hard to get a quick reaction with a lot of brake force. But lots of range of brake force, with large pedal throw.
So i moved peg on pedal up a hole (be careful force to re assemble high, might turn your face a bit red etc), now it was easy to get on the brake & with lots of force. But now not as subtle with brake force, throw now very short. In fact potensiometer don't do much, had to have it all one way around (else brake pressure even on when not touching brake at all, i think ? forgot :) ). Anyway changed backed to original set up.

With tuning kit, iv'e set up as Delphic Reason ie pedal in original notch hole, but longer steel brake pressure pin & harder foam piece. To get a compromise of two setups above.
Havn't managed to test by actually driving, got to clear out room i use, stuff all over floor etc. But just pressing pedal & testing just pedals with PC SW, it looks promising ie between two setups already tried. Other way to try, at least for similar to above, is shorter steel pressure bar & move pedal up a notch. Prob a bit of difference between the two ways.
At least you can set up a few different ways for all the pedals. Left clutch as original, its stiff enough :) , but do you want real life Car (specific car maybe) or easy to push. Same with accelerator, but i have put stronger spring on that, only stronger accelerator spring thou. Don't fancy a work out :) , you might thou.

Cheers BOB

Edit, one thing, tuning kit ain't been a waste of time for me. Apart from new brass bushes, set up looks (& i should think, feels) better for me, than i would have got without it. Even with just a short mess with it.
Click to expand...

Thank's man! will definitely install the brass pieces!

So I recieved an email yesterday from Fanatec saying "your order will be shipped now!" It said that I would get an email with the tracking number as soon as it shipped, still waiting on the email. I went to the Fanatec webshop page and logged on to my account and it says delivered on the order status. a bit confussed here as I haven't recieved anything!
 
@Jav,

All CSP's past about March were fitted with the brass pieces/fittings. So no worries there mate! As for the brake itself, I made no internal foam or bar adjustments, just moved the brake bar up 1 notch. To me, it feels dead on.
 
I've been meaning to try out the brake one notch up, but you aint kidding that bolt on the side is a pain in the arse. I dont have any allen wrenches long enough, i really want to find a set of wrenches like they have on InsideSimRacing, look like they would be perfect for getting in those tight spots.
 
@Ice, yea, then trying to find an allenwrech small enough to get the brake bar out is another trick on it's own lol. It is so tiny, you need an entire set of allenwrenches to work on these. BUT, they are easy to work on once taken apart. I was surprised how hands on you can be without fear of breaking anything. They are most definitely worth twice what Thomas charges for them, IMHO.

Be careful when you take the brake apart, you might break the allenwrench if you do not use proper pressure to release it. And you do not need to take the PCB board or load cell off, just be careful.

And yea, that little screw is a big pain, eh?
 
Hey Shark, what was the issue? I would like to try and walk you through it. All I did was watch Thomas' tutorial on the CSP's then followed his steps. Worked like a charm. Again, the only real issue was those 2 small allen screws. They were a pain to make sure you had them lined up properly to make sure everything fell back into its original spot.
 
Hi AGP! Thank you, everything works well.:) That little **** was the biggest problem what you mentioned. After 20 minutes I was able to take it out..
 
Good luck lining it back up when you go put it back together, that is a 2 man job! In Thomas' tutorial, he even cuts out the part where he has to get those screws in and out lol.
 
Quick question: Is it possible to move the brake pivot point without taking the pedal hinge bar out? i.e. just take the 2.5mm allen lock out of the pivot bar on the brake, move it up, and put it back in without having to first disassemble the whole pedal assembly?
 
To be honest, idk. you would have to see if you first off have clear access to the allenwrench spot. Then see if you can from there. Again, though, to be honest, idk.

EDIT: after thinking about it, no, you need to take them apart. You need the bar itself free from the housing. Sorry mate
 
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personally Ice, just go to a hardware store and get a 50pc set. In those 10, you might find 1 might not work with what you need. Just my honest opinion. Even if it is off by like .5 of 1mm, you will be literally screwed lol. Just trying to help, plus a 50pc allenwrench set is like 5-10 bucks. And you need ones with NO handle on them to get to specific areas for those 2 little arsehole screws.
 
Shark33
everything works well
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🤬
After a few hours of playing the throttle doesn't work properly. When I push it to maximum it's jumping between 90-100%.
Well, it's not too good during the race.:grumpy: Tomorrow I'll check the sensor and tighten the screws, maybe this will solve the problem but when will I have a perfectly functioning equipment?:irked:
 
Shark33
🤬
After a few hours of playing the throttle doesn't work properly. When I push it to maximum it's jumping between 90-100%.
Well, it's not too good during the race.:grumpy: Tomorrow I'll check the sensor and tighten the screws, maybe this will solve the problem but when will I have a perfectly functioning equipment?:irked:
Click to expand...

Sorry to hear, man. There's a good rundown of the ClubSport Pedals at the ISR forums. I recommend reading through, beginning to end. You'll learn how to align the magnets inside the axis of the pedals. I haven't had to do that to mine, but it sounds like some fussy work. Of particular interest is this post. Take a look at how the hall effect sensors are attached. I remember when I unboxed my CSPs I gave them a once over to make sure everything was tight. I noticed the sensors on mine were loose, so I tightened the screws and made sure they were securely attached. If there's some play, that could affect the self calibration.


IceZ
I think i found a set i might order...

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NPUJN0/?tag=gtplanet-20
Click to expand...

I'm a huge fan of Wiha Tools. Check out their ball-end hex tools.
 
Got the tracking number earlier tonight, they shipped today and should be here next thursday! Cant wait!!
 
Hi, when i moved the brake pedal up a notch, i did do it without disassembling. You can get to allen screw etc. Its hard thou, needs a bit of strenght, not that i'm a body builder etc. Won't do it again thou :D . Be easier prob if 2 peeps, but still prob not worth doing IMO.
Easier & safer taking apart first.



Cheers BOB
 

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