For wheel users: Would you like an option with ffb advanced settings, like the last Forza 7 update?

Would you like an option with more ffb advance settings, like the last Forza 7 update?

  • Yes! That would be a game changing option for the Gran turismo franchise.

  • No! I really don't mind i am ok as it is right now.

  • I don't care, i race in realistic games/sims on my pc (Assetto corsa , Iracing , raceroom . etc).

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ANDRITSOULAS

ANDRITSOULAS

175
Greece
Lamia city
There is much hype with the last Forza's ffb update.
I personally would like something like this in in our beloved game. A better tyre model alongside with more ffb advanced options/settings maybe. Wouldn't something like that give more justice to the ''The real driving simulator'' slogan?

What do you thnk?
Would you like something similar?
 
The Forza options can be summarised into deadzone, mechanical/pneumatic trail and road bumps. It can seem like extensive but there's actually only a very narrow range of adjustment that's realistic, and this should be the game developer's homework, not the players. PCARS1 was also guilty of this.

I'm fine with the settings in GTS. There's one setting for strength, and the other for road surface imperfections. One of the things I liked about GT is plug and play FFB, and for the most part it's pretty good out of the box. Sure FFB is not on the level of AC or rFactor, but that's a problem with the underlying physics and no amount of FFB tinkering will solve that. The only thing I'd like changed is throttle linearity, which was never a problem in previous games oddly enough.

Even in PC sims if the devs do their homework the only FFB setting you need to concern yourself is Master Gain. Everything else I usually set to zero because if the underlying game physics is good enough and the FFB is physics based, you should be able to feel everything without amplifying canned effects (kerb rumble, road surface, under/oversteer, etc).
 
G29 user, kind of fell away from playing recently. Steering is muddy and unpredictable at times, just wasn't having much fun. More and better tuning of the FFB experience might help. I've said before that the G29 in GTS plays like a DS4, and I'd stand by that statement. (Wheel works fine in pcars...)
 
The simpler the better. Only the very basic of settings needed.

PCars was absolutely baffling for both wheel and pad users. That’s because the controls were fundamentally broken and the devs failed to set up the base game correctly.
 
Guffaluff
*2 sliders :)

Controller Sensitivity slider is for the DualShock, not wheels.

So it boils down to Torque and Sensitivity. I have no problem with that personally :)
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I'm going to disagree. On my G29, I find the Controller Sensitivity to be a great tool. Try running the GR.3 C7 at the 'Ring with the controller sensitivity at 7, then try it at 2. I find it takes the twitchiness out of the steering response. I just wish there were more "stops". I'd like 20. (GR.4 Atenza needs to be at 5.5, Gr.4 Mustang at 4.5, etc...)(Maybe this just proves my theory re: G29 being a DS4 port job...)
 
Just because one person says it..doesn't make it true....G29 is a good wheel ..there are better out there yes but for the price there are non better. Not even close to feeling like a DS4...lol
 
WheelmanSteve
I'm going to disagree. On my G29, I find the Controller Sensitivity to be a great tool. Try running the GR.3 C7 at the 'Ring with the controller sensitivity at 7, then try it at 2. I find it takes the twitchiness out of the steering response. I just wish there were more "stops". I'd like 20. (GR.4 Atenza needs to be at 5.5, Gr.4 Mustang at 4.5, etc...)(Maybe this just proves my theory re: G29 being a DS4 port job...)
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Haven't notice any difference on that setting myself, on various combos. Not saying you're wrong, simply saying I don't feel the difference :)

I might quite well be wrong :D
 
A wheel registers as a controller when you plug it on the console. So if the controller sensitivity is for every controller wireless or not it will affect the wheel also.
Also if you drive through the cockpit camera is soooooo obvious . . . .

I can race at least a sec faster when i have the Controller sensitivity at -2/-1 (negative). Also the biggest difference is when you drive an MR car. It is way more controllable with the lower values , and i can catch slides almost every time. At least for me.
 
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I find that it lacks 2 additional settings for the rim and pedals: Sensitivity and dead zone ... mainly..
And regarding just the pedals. and since we have no linearity.. it should have a Gamma multiplier setting, also... :)
 
A bit of a recant, and some heresy: I logged in to GTS last night after a couple of weeks of walking around West Virginia. I loaded up the "Real World Circuit Tour" or whatever it's called, and tuned the new Maserati down to 391HP to run it. First event was Barcelona- wow! Control was delightful- linear, not twitchy, and very immersive. I found myself chasing the apexes, getting right on the power, and just totally enjoying both the track and the car. (That's my recant- G29, great feel, lots of fun...) Now for the heresy- after running this event twice, and the Interlagos event once, I discovered I had set the ASM to "On", and the CSA to "Weak". (and Controller Sensitivity at 5...) I had done this a couple weeks back while testing the pros and cons of these assists- I knocked 7-11 seconds off of my GR3 Nord24 qualifying time with these settings vs. my normal "no assists" setting. Now I'm conflicted- the "drive" was SO much better with those assists on- I had more fun last night that I have in MONTHS with this game. I don't know how to describe the difference, other that to say that with these settings I'm fighting the TRACK, and the CLOCK, not the CAR. Does that make any sense?
 
Like @LeGeNd-1 mentioned.

All you really need FFB wise is maximum force, minimum force, and damper. The rest should come from the physics engine. If the physics engine is good the FFB will be to.

GTS has max force (strength) and damper (sensitivity) settings. A min force setting would be nice though i think the fixed setting is not bad.
 
WheelmanSteve
A bit of a recant, and some heresy: I logged in to GTS last night after a couple of weeks of walking around West Virginia. I loaded up the "Real World Circuit Tour" or whatever it's called, and tuned the new Maserati down to 391HP to run it. First event was Barcelona- wow! Control was delightful- linear, not twitchy, and very immersive. I found myself chasing the apexes, getting right on the power, and just totally enjoying both the track and the car. (That's my recant- G29, great feel, lots of fun...) Now for the heresy- after running this event twice, and the Interlagos event once, I discovered I had set the ASM to "On", and the CSA to "Weak". (and Controller Sensitivity at 5...) I had done this a couple weeks back while testing the pros and cons of these assists- I knocked 7-11 seconds off of my GR3 Nord24 qualifying time with these settings vs. my normal "no assists" setting. Now I'm conflicted- the "drive" was SO much better with those assists on- I had more fun last night that I have in MONTHS with this game. I don't know how to describe the difference, other that to say that with these settings I'm fighting the TRACK, and the CLOCK, not the CAR. Does that make any sense?
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Interesting! Sometimes I find a little snobbery displayed toward the assists around here. Yes, for a purist "simulation" these are not real world assists so should not exist in the game. Then again, it's a game. I play to enjoy so regardless of the snobbery I should certainly not set the "game" up just to annoy myself. I play on a DS4 and a few weeks back was having a miserable time with a particular GR4 FR car (can't recall which now). I turned CSA on and played. Forgot, and continued to play. I noticed the error last night and turned it off. On my favourite GR3 Vantage and Mustang I was kicking the back out pulling out of slow corners. Now, I play with a DS4, with a tiny amount of travel on the trigger available to feather the power. It is not a real life simulation, I am sitting on a chair with a game pad on my lap. For the sake of taking the high moral ground do I switch off CSA now and have a horrible time?

For the record, I use ABS at default and CSM at strong. All other assists including traction are off. The CSA only really helps me with RWD vehicles. On front and 4WD I rarely see the light flicker and never to a point I feel it is actually assisting. If anything, this may sound odd, I find on a 4WD CSA slows me because it stops me slightly sliding the car into some faster corners (going with the flow so to speak).


banckzy
Man I got a G29 and after reading this I'm feeling like I've essentially got a circle shaped DS4
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Brilliant!:lol: I've a G29 in a box waiting for Christmas Day. Hopefully it lives up to all the excitement one can muster from a circular DS4. Perhaps then I may also turn the CSM back off.:rolleyes:
 
Guys, please don't base your decision whether to buy or use a G29 on my whining. It's a GREAT product- I had a G25 for 15 years, and it still works perfectly. If the G25 was supported on the PS4, I'd still be using it- Logitech makes a very high quality product. "Wheeling it" is light years ahead of driving with a controller, at least for fun and immersion. I'm sucking it up and running some assists, and having a lot more fun, which is the whole point of this, right?
 
WheelmanSteve
Guys, please don't base your decision whether to buy or use a G29 on my whining. It's a GREAT product- I had a G25 for 15 years, and it still works perfectly. If the G25 was supported on the PS4, I'd still be using it- Logitech makes a very high quality product. "Wheeling it" is light years ahead of driving with a controller, at least for fun and immersion. I'm sucking it up and running some assists, and having a lot more fun, which is the whole point of this, right?
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If everyone else used assists to stay on the track instead of using my car I’d be delighted.:cheers:
 
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Shottah072
Like @LeGeNd-1 mentioned.

All you really need FFB wise is maximum force, minimum force, and damper. The rest should come from the physics engine. If the physics engine is good the FFB will be to.

GTS has max force (strength) and damper (sensitivity) settings. A min force setting would be nice though i think the fixed setting is not bad.
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I think sensitivity in GTS is more road surface rumble amplifier. Also don't forget you have controller sensitivity which can be used to change linearity slightly.
 
LeGeNd-1
I think sensitivity in GTS is more road surface rumble amplifier. Also don't forget you have controller sensitivity which can be used to change linearity slightly.
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Damper effects road surface as well. It basicaly smooths out the spikes in the FFB. Its weird cause its backwards in GTS. 10 is actually zero or the least damper. Is most spikey but most detailed. At 0 everything gets smooth out and there is almost no detail.
 
Shottah072
Damper effects road surface as well. It basicaly smooths out the spikes in the FFB. Its weird cause its backwards in GTS. 10 is actually zero or the least damper. Is most spikey but most detailed. At 0 everything gets smooth out and there is almost no detail.
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That's interesting, I never thought of it that way. I think because the setting is called Sensitivity and not Damper it's the right way round though.

For reference back in GT5/6 I use a G25 and my FFB was set 5/10 (Strength/Sens). Now in GTS I use T-GT and FFB is at 2/1.
 
LeGeNd-1
That's interesting, I never thought of it that way. I think because the setting is called Sensitivity and not Damper it's the right way round though.

For reference back in GT5/6 I use a G25 and my FFB was set 5/10 (Strength/Sens). Now in GTS I use T-GT and FFB is at 2/1.
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Yeah your right about it being the right way around because they called it sensitivity. But from the way it effects the FFB i am pretty sure its just a form of damper.

I have a T300 and i run low Strength to prevent FFB clipping and use high Sensitivity to get the most raw detail. I am usually at 3/10.
 
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