Force Feedback Settings - PC

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crowhop

crowhop

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I'm on PC using a Thrustmaster T300 w/ Ferrari F1 rim and separate pedals.

The pedals are working fine, but the wheel is almost useless. Anyone have any suggestions for setting the FFB? I've tinkered with the settings for hours trying to dial it in. I've watched multiple youtube vids on getting it set up, but they all feel more or less the same. There is hardly any Force at all. It's basically like driving a wheel that is unplugged. I get the vibration when riding the curbs and some vibration on Understeer, but that's about it. There is practically zero force when driving. Any help would be appreciated.
 
Raise minimum force?
Assuming PC has similar settings to Xbox, raising strength of settings is am obvious choice.

Another possibility....is that overexaggerated FF from other games has you expecting it to drive like it doesn't have power steering.
Something I always noticed on PS3 is my DFGT would typically be 2-3x harder to turn than an actual car with power steering.
Actually everything was exaggerated.
I've never had a steering wheel so strong in real life, not even close.(except without PS)
 
I use the T300 on the PC, set your master gain in the trustmaster driver to 50%, leave everything else at defaults.

Then use the rest of the settings I have set here for my G920 from the X1, they are pretty much the same in game settings I use on the PC with my T300, and will give you a starting point for you to tweak for personal preference.

 
Ialyrn
I use the T300 on the PC, set your master gain in the trustmaster driver to 50%, leave everything else at defaults.

Then use the rest of the settings I have set here for my G920 from the X1, they are pretty much the same in game settings I use on the PC with my T300, and will give you a starting point for you to tweak for personal preference.

Click to expand...

Maybe slightly off-topic, you have a G920, any chance you found any settings that work for PCars on Xbox?
 
CSLACR
Maybe slightly off-topic, you have a G920, any chance you found any settings that work for PCars on Xbox?
Click to expand...

Afraid not, been a very long time since I last looked at Pcars, well before all the updates had run for it. Sorry I cant help on that front.
 
CSLACR
Raise minimum force?
Assuming PC has similar settings to Xbox, raising strength of settings is am obvious choice.

Another possibility....is that overexaggerated FF from other games has you expecting it to drive like it doesn't have power steering.
Something I always noticed on PS3 is my DFGT would typically be 2-3x harder to turn than an actual car with power steering.
Actually everything was exaggerated.
I've never had a steering wheel so strong in real life, not even close.(except without PS)
Click to expand...
I've tried that along with all the other settings. Seems some didn't have any effect at all. Others offered very slight improvement to the rumble felt on curbing. Mostly though it feels like turning a wheel with zero resistance.

The Power Steering thing...I thought that at the very first, but it is truly like driving a wheel that is completely unplugged from power. I have to rely 100% on visual cues to know if the car is turning or not. Other games simulate FFB much better than Forza. It is rich reading a Forza player champion realism in Forza compared to other games.

Will give that a try, @Ialyrn. Thanks for the tip.
 
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Maybe we could use this thread to post recommended settings for different wheels to give a jump start to new players? Once I go back home I can share my settings for a Driving Force GT on PC.
 
Ialyrn
I use the T300 on the PC, set your master gain in the trustmaster driver to 50%, leave everything else at defaults.

Then use the rest of the settings I have set here for my G920 from the X1, they are pretty much the same in game settings I use on the PC with my T300, and will give you a starting point for you to tweak for personal preference.

Click to expand...

Gave it a try, but it made things worse. Basically the exact feeling as before. Hopefully there'll be a patch for this soon.
 
crowhop
Other games simulate FFB much better than Forza. It is rich reading a Forza player champion realism in Forza compared to other games.
Click to expand...
That didn't happen just now.

However, if a wheel malfunctioning and/or not having any force, feedback, or proper steering in the game means it has terrible FFB, I'm not looking at Forza. (hint, other game)

I will say Forza feels more like a street car with easy steering, rather than a racecar with tight steering.
The only reason I mention the easier steering, is because right after playing AC, Forza steering does feel really light, even weak. If it's more than that, I'm sorry to hear that, hopefully you can get it working right soon. :)
 
crowhop
Gave it a try, but it made things worse. Basically the exact feeling as before. Hopefully there'll be a patch for this soon.
Click to expand...

Must be something really odd happening on your side then, as I use those settings without an issue. What are your Thrustmaster Driver settings?
 
crowhop
I've tried that along with all the other settings. Seems some didn't have any effect at all. Others offered very slight improvement to the rumble felt on curbing. Mostly though it feels like turning a wheel with zero resistance.
Click to expand...
The Vibration setting effects the feel from the rumble strips. I had to turn that down from the default on my wheel as it was a bit to strong.
Damper effects the weight of the wheel. I also reduced that as on my wheel it was to heavy in a lot of the cars.

If those feel to weak on your wheel then try cranking them up a bit and/or setting the overall ffb higher in the driver for your wheel.

I am using the CSR Elite wheel which has a pretty strong FFB system in it so I am sure my settings would not feel strong enough to many who use a different wheel.

I have also tried just for curiousity turning the min force, damper, spring and understeer all down as low as they go and was a bit surprised at how the car felt. The weight of the steering was a bit odd at those settings in that at low speed there was little resistance but at higher speed there was more even stiff on some cars but the impressive thing was the way the torque steer, body roll and slides sent feedback through the wheel that and the return to center when exiting a corner seemed more pronounced.

I'm still tweaking settings a bit but so far my only issue is that some cars feel a bit to heavy at my settings and a few feel a bit to light. For example the B06 Mazda is totally effortless going around the banked corner on Daytona. The GT-R FE on the other hand requires a bit of effort to turn the wheel on. Some of the rally cars require quite a bit of effort as well. Maybe because those are 4wd not sure but there is a very large difference in the weight of the wheel when driving these cars compared to some of the others.
 
Ialyrn
Must be something really odd happening on your side then, as I use those settings without an issue. What are your Thrustmaster Driver settings?
Click to expand...
Gain at 50% and Default. For all other games I run 100% gain and Default. Tried both, more or less the same result.

When I am in the menu screens, the wheel has a good bit of resistance. As soon as the race starts I can feel the wheel turn off and I can turn it wildly with no resistance at all.

I have Protosimtec PT1 pedals. I wonder if the pedals are throwing it off. Hopefully they'll add standard calibration features soon.

It's frustrating. I can see the glimpses of fun there to be had. I play with a controller and it's ok, but a significant drop in realism. I have the VIP version, so I'm invested. Hopeful I can fully enjoy it soon.

@HBR-Roadhog, all the cars feel the same. From the NASCAR to the 60s F1 to the BMW M4...I've tried them all. Same result.
 
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crowhop
Gain at 50% and Default. For all other games I run 100% gain and Default. Tried both, more or less the same result.

When I am in the menu screens, the wheel has a good bit of resistance. As soon as the race starts I can feel the wheel turn off and I can turn it wildly with no resistance at all.

I have Protosimtec PT1 pedals. I wonder if the pedals are throwing it off. Hopefully they'll add standard calibration features soon.

It's frustrating. I can see the glimpses of fun there to be had. I play with a controller and it's ok, but a significant drop in realism. I have the VIP version, so I'm invested. Hopeful I can fully enjoy it soon.
Click to expand...

Out of curiosity, are you using a USB 3.0 or USB 2.0 port with your wheel? During the demo a T10 dev noted that there was an issue pertaining to only the Thrustmaster devices why by using USB 3.0 may cause the wheel to initialise properly; resulting in poor/inconsistent/no FFB. May be worth looking into. Another thing that would be worth checking also, is if your wheels Firmware is updated, the T300 should be running Firmware v25

https://support.thrustmaster.com/en/product/t300rsgtedition-en/

You can download the most recent device drivers from that page also, I would recommend doing that also.
 
Ialyrn
Out of curiosity, are you using a USB 3.0 or USB 2.0 port with your wheel? During the demo a T10 dev noted that there was an issue pertaining to only the Thrustmaster devices why by using USB 3.0 may cause the wheel to initialise properly; resulting in poor/inconsistent/no FFB. May be worth looking into. Another thing that would be worth checking also, is if your wheels Firmware is updated, the T300 should be running Firmware v25

https://support.thrustmaster.com/en/product/t300rsgtedition-en/

You can download the most recent device drivers from that page also, I would recommend doing that also.
Click to expand...
The Firmware is up to date. But I will definitely check the USB 3.0 thing. My case only has 2 USB 2.0 Ports, but 10 USB 3.0s.

EDIT:
The pedals and wheel base are connected to the USB 2.0 ports. Just tested in game...still the same.

The keyboard, mouse and XBox controller are connected to USB 3.0s...any chance that matters at all?

Just want to say...I do truly appreciate the help in trying to get this sorted. Thank you.
 
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crowhop
The Firmware is up to date. But I will definitely check the USB 3.0 thing. My case only has 2 USB 2.0 Ports, but 10 USB 3.0s.

EDIT:
The pedals and wheel base are connected to the USB 2.0 ports. Just tested in game...still the same.

The keyboard, mouse and XBox controller are connected to USB 3.0s...any chance that matters at all?

Just want to say...I do truly appreciate the help in trying to get this sorted. Thank you.
Click to expand...

More than happy to help, but I am running out of idea's in all honesty. I would say at this time to make a post in this forum -

https://forums.forzamotorsport.net/turn10_topics103_Technical-Support-and-Help.aspx

That is T10's official forum, they have a tech support section for FM7 (where the link will take you). It may be possible you have come across a bug in the game, so if you post there with the PC specs, wheel settings and a detailed description of what is going on; they may be able to help and look into things on their side. Worth a try.

I should be able to record a second wheel settings video tomorrow for my T300 RS-GT, all going to plan that is. So that may help, and if I think of anything else; I will post it up for you (and others).
 
CSLACR
Raise minimum force?
Click to expand...

Raising the min force will have an undesired effect, you have to lower it to increase the centering strenght of the wheel, same goes for FFB understeer.

There is a known issue with some wheels that when using a custom mapping the FFB does not function properly, it could be this.
 
Blue028
Raising the min force will have an undesired effect, you have to lower it to increase the centering strenght of the wheel, same goes for FFB understeer.

There is a known issue with some wheels that when using a custom mapping the FFB does not function properly, it could be this.
Click to expand...

I watched one of the videos you posted the other day and tried taking the settings down like you were showing. I liked the way it felt with one exception and that being that in most cars when I first pull out there is little to no resistance on the wheel. Once a little speed is achieved it felt pretty good.

What would you suggest to get a little more resistance on the wheel at low speed without getting to much at higher speed?
 
I dont think there is a way around this atm, from my investigations the aligning torque at low speed does not get translated through the wheel properly if at all. Ideally we need a FFB scoop setting to allow us to adjust the scale between the lower forces and the higher forces, IMO the low end forces are much too soft wich is also why there is barely any feel for the road and subtle bumps.
 
HBR-Roadhog
Have you tried it without the xbox controller plugged in?
Click to expand...
I tried this and, weirdly, it was actually better. The improvement was slight, but it was better. There was some actual weight to the wheel. Still nowhere near where it needs to be in order to drive precisely, but it helped.
 
Interesting that having the Xbox controller disconnected can help, I use it for navigation in all my sims as a mouse replacement.

I have found that with my G25 (I know, not that related hardware wise) I faced similar issues of the wheel feeling overly light. I dialled the FFB overall strength up about 40% in the Logitech profiler, then set the game to roughly default settings - with the centering spring off and the damping very, very low with minimum force at 80. This eliminated the "dead" feeling for me entirely. If you have any kind of external (to the game) control for the wheel settings that can go above 100%, definitely try those out.

One little tweak that also helped was dialling up the "spring effects" slider by about 10%.
 
Hi guys,

I'd like to report that I'm using a Logitech G27 wheel....well, in reality my Windows 10 PC thinks so anyway, but in fact I'm using a Leo Bodnar wheel via the GIMX software(a program that emulates the G27 wheel). Forza 7 recognizes the wheel as a G27 but I am getting no force feedback what so ever. Tried all kinds of FFB settings and the wheel remains dead in and out of the race. All other buttons and steering/brakes work fine, and the FFB works in every other game so it's not my connection. Any tips or ideas would be greatly appreciated thanks.
 

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