[FS] Longboard - Earthwing Carbon Belly Carver (deck/complete)

[AOS-]

Initially selling the deck for $80, but willing to sell a complete setup for $250 (please contact me for this).

If you're only buying the deck, YOU WILL ONLY RECEIVE THE DECK.
If you're buying a complete, YOU WILL ONLY RECEIVE 2 SETS OF BUSHINGS (4 BUSHINGS) AND 1 SET OF RISERS (2 PADS) OF YOUR CHOICE.

Right off the bat, the condition of the board is perfectly useable - "very good" to give you the correct impression, it's only got physical wear from usage. The story of it is that I'm looking to try another board but I don't want to be in possession of more than 1 board at a time which is why I'm selling this off. I'm an honest seller; I've got nothing to hide, hence why I'm listing off the physical condition of every part (should you want the complete setup) as detailed as possible:

-Deck: Been holding up a 128 lb. rider (that's me), for about at most 14 hours of riding (accumulated total). Very little flex wear if any at all, very light scratches from wear on the roadside of the deck, a few small chips off the back of the deck from scratching pavement when I tipped the board too high when pulling the board across an intersection by the front axle. In response to that, I had placed several layers of hockey tape on both ends to prevent further surface damage. The green "Switchback Longboards" sticker was applied on the lower quadrant of the deck. The blue stripe on the back side have a few chips, one of which was already in existence the day it arrived in the mail. The deck can tailor to old-style and new-style hardware layout. An extra set of holes have been poked out since I own another pair of trucks that had a different layout than that on the Independent's. Usually, people get black grip tape, I bought clear grip tape and it in all honesty turned out less prettier than I hoped because Earthwing used stained wood for the construction of this board. The grip is still useable, barely worn anywhere other than the front where the front foot is placed.

-Risers: Aside from being dirty from built-up dust from the ground, these are working just fine. For cruising and maybe a few sharper turns, the 1/8" shock pad will suffice. Having the shock pad is definitely better than having nothing because it can relieve possible high tension from over-tightening the trucks on the deck, as well as bumps on the road (especially sidewalk cracks). If you're going to do pumping, I would add on the 1/4" riser just to avoid the chance of wheelbite, even though getting wheelbite with just the 1/8" Shock Pads is already unlikely, otherwise, just the Shock Pads will do.

-Trucks: Can't lie about this one: the hangers (the "axle" as you may interpret it as) are ever so slightly bent, but this will happen with almost all trucks as it's a natural occurrence since so much weight is being put on it. Other than that, I have modified these by replacing the stock 2" kingpin with a Grade 8 12 tpi (threads per inch) 2 1/2" Hex bolts. This was so that the trucks would be compatible with large-sized bushings. JB Weld has been applied to hold the bolts in place, but they've come loose, but the JB Weld is still in tact so tightening the kingpin nut is not a problem, nor is the kingpin being loose out its fitting one either. Because I had bought a coarse-thread bolt (12 tpi), I had to get a new set of lock nuts. These are grade 9 aluminum lock nuts, that rely on the friction from an oval opening rather than the friction made from the nylon tips of nylon nuts. They can probably outlast the latter. Last thing to note, prior to swapping the kingpins, I had to remove the old one by putting it in the oven (it's a known trick amongst the community), but I had forgotten to take out the pivot bushing cups. These are the black rubber "cups" that the hanger (the "axle") sits on to pivot the way it does. I bought Khiro small-size cups to replace it, and they do the job. I'm only describing this story because that explains the melted substance on one of the trucks' baseplate. It doesn't affect performance (obviously), but I haven't been able to remove that last bit of it.

-Bushings: All of them have been equipped before as you can see that they aren't perfectly clean in the attached photo. To give you a ballpark comparison of the two, Venoms have a smoother lean, Fat Ants are stiffer and feel like they're more dense. Research them if you want to learn more about it. With the new longer kingpin in place, using small bushings, the size used in skateboards won't fit. Rather, the kingpin will lock further down the bolt rather than at the top. you can still use skateboard bushings, but it just means the tip of the kingpin is exposed to grinding against the ground should you hit a curb or sidewalk ramp.

-Wheels: Despite being center-set, they have, I think they have just began to cone, but it's unnoticeable to the average person. It's probably due to the axle being bent, but that aside, I measured their diameters of roughly 69.7 to 69.8mm, which is barely any wear on these Abec 11 Grippins 70mm 78a. I removed the original graphics with acetone so it is perfectly off. If you wish, I can also remove the scratchy black paint strokes I put on before sending it off.

-Bearings: These are no longer performing anywhere near 100%. They have been cleaned once, but instead of applying Bones Speed Cream or any lube, I used automotive grease because I chose the route of keeping the chamber more weatherproof than to keep it spinning fast. Because of the viscous nature now, the bearings no longer roll as freely and ultimately, you won't be traveling all too fast in these. You're better off buying a brand new set yourself.

-Hardware: Not considered the prettiest choice in the skateboarding culture, but it gets the job done. The machine screws, nylon nuts and washer all have their raw finish, meaning they're not painted and exposed to rust. The washer is helpful in distributing the pressure on the deck created from the screw heads. You don't need it but I'd recommend using them. The machine screws have Robertson pan heads, sized 10-32 as well as the nylon nuts. Depending on which set of risers you want, different lengths are required. For just the 1/8" Shock Pads, the 1" screws will suffice, 1/4" will require the 1 1/2" screws. I imagine the screws have undergone stress from usage, but nothing has broke yet!




Specifications aside, this board in my experience is extremely fun to carve on a straight surface because of the smooth deep turns the trucks allow. Earthwing boards have been tailored to Independent trucks, and the Indy 215 model is the ideal choice to make for a carving or cruising setup. If you have any questions about the item I'm selling, whether it's to clarify what is being offered, the parts itself, or how compatible this deck is with other skateboard parts, I will happily respond informatively to the best of my ability.

If you are seeking to buy the complete, PLEASE CONTACT ME FIRST.

Pictures: