G25 Motor bad, replace brushes?

[grog]

One of the motors for my Logitech G25 just failed on me. It started to act notchey and jittery as I turn the wheel.
I opened up the motor and found that the brushes are quite ground down, one is almost all gone.

I'm going to attempt to make my own new brushes with some copper and a lot of solder, but I'm wondering if I should hold off and try to source some other brushes to re-purpose. I've also considered having a electric motor specialist have a stab at it.
The brushes are made of copper, its not the typical carbon construction.

Does anybody have any info on the logitech brushes?

It seems like something I could fix fairly easily.

Thanks

 

[mrbasher]

This may or may not help some: http://fillwithcoolblogname.blogspot.com/2012/07/broken-logitech-g25-part-i.html

The brushes generally need to be touching the comm. in a pretty accurate way for things to work optimally as it changes the timing of the motor if they are not. You could try finding a 540 motor and getting the brushes from it...

 

[mrbasher]

You can also contact a place like this: http://www.made-in-china.com/showro...a-Johnson-Low-Voltage-Standard-DC-Motors.html

They don't always only sell wholesale quantities... It's worth a shot, they list the actual motor there which is a HC685LG-011

 

[grog]

Hey thanks for the replies. I like your idea of getting the brushes from a 540 RC motor. Now to clarify (as I'm new to this) I would get a 540 brushed motor to attempt this?

Thanks again, I'm really determined to make this wheel last a bit longer.

EDIT: it seems like the 540 motor uses carbon brushes, Is the idea to switch over to carbon? I'm not sure if it will mount properly, would I be able to swap the housing that these mount to over to the G25 motor.
Sorry for the excessive amount of questions.

 

[mrbasher]

No prob on the questions. If it bothered me I wouldn't respond.

Not every 540/550 size motor uses the carbon brushes I don't think. I've torn tons of motors apart over the years. However, finding one isn't always simple. Swapping the housing may work, if things line up. Motors like this are often the same size everything and the only real difference is the number of turns on the armature, size of the wire, length of the "can" and armature, stuff like that. The can and back are generally the same until you go to a larger diameter motor.

The Johnson motors aren't designated as a "540" that's a Mabuchi thing that became a "standard" kind of like calling facial tissue Kleenex.

It's hard to say without trying... Though if you look enough doing the right searches, you can probably find a 540 size motor, even a Johnson motor of different model, and use the back from it. For instance, one of these: http://www.testco-inc.com/johnson-electric/HC685G-020 kind of expensive at $30 each though :/

Try searching on ebay for Johnson motors. Look for ones that start with HC685 as that's the part of the model that seems to determine the diameter, which is 35.8

 

[mrbasher]

I should note... The motor is actually a 555 size motor. 35.8mm diameter, 57mm length. This means the wheel has dual 555 motors, just like the CSR Elite and CSW. The difference is that these motors are wound to be slower.

 

[mrbasher]

Best I can do for now http://www.surplustraders.net/forms/form_part_request.php?stock_no=MB679

May even be a drop in replacement, though I wouldn't test that. Just take the back off and use it on your motor.

If not that, just look through the johnson motors on this page: http://www.surplustraders.net/category/DC ELECTRIC MOTORS-0082

They measure them in inch dimensions for whatever, reason which is inaccurate so pay attention to that. Anything close to 35.8mm x 57mm will be the right size. I doubt they have different shaft diameters so that shouldn't be an issue.

Now I gotta get back to work LOL

 

[grog]

Thanks again for all the input, you're very kind.
I'll have to get to this project later but I'll come back to update this thread once I make some progress

 

[eKretz]

I would definitely follow Basher's advice there; making your own brushes would probably end in failure. The brush end radius needs to be pretty closely matched to the comm radius for the brushes to work properly. The brushes also can get quite hot, soldering a wire to a piece of copper might not hold up.

Another thing you need to consider is that the comm may also be damaged, necessitating it to be resurfaced at minimum and possibly replaced, depending on the wear level.

 

[GTsimms]

One of the motors for my Logitech G25 just failed on me. It started to act notchey and jittery as I turn the wheel.
I opened up the motor and found that the brushes are quite ground down, one is almost all gone.

I'm going to attempt to make my own new brushes with some copper and a lot of solder, but I'm wondering if I should hold off and try to source some other brushes to re-purpose. I've also considered having a electric motor specialist have a stab at it.
The brushes are made of copper, its not the typical carbon construction.

Does anybody have any info on the logitech brushes?

It seems like something I could fix fairly easily.

Thanks

Hey grog, the motors are a two way type motor. Which I bought 10 (RS-540SH-32105, I had to buy a minimum #) new ones here a few years back. I was not successful with my G25, it was another problem with the electronics that I didn't have enough knowledge of how to fix. I could send you some of them to possibly help with you situation, no charge, they are not any use to me. I do not have a gear puller.

 

[grog]

Hey thanks for the offer GTsimms, I've actually just got a free G27 which is on its way so I'll have to decline the offer, but Thank you and everyone who chimed in.

At my work we get "reward" points for selling products. Most items we can get aren't that special, so I was extremely surprised to see the G27 was available and I hopped on it.

I feel slightly guilty for taking the easy way out.