g27 force feedback issues

  • Thread starter dijaz
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Anguilla
Anguilla
pingpong
Hi all.
I enjoy reading this forum, but now I have a question of my own.


I'm using g27 with GT6 on PS3, but the issue is the same with GT5. Everything works fine, except I have some problems with force feedback.

First of all there is no FFB effect when I hit another car or bump into a wall.
Second thing is that when I'm turning the wheel it makes a 'ticking' sounds and it feels like like the motors inside are 'skipping' or letting go.
Third thing is that when I turn some 30 degrees and more at high speeds or hit the wall at high speeds the FFB turns off and the wheel is very loose.

Is this behaviour normal for force feedback?


Best regards!
D.
 
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No that's not normal.

It sounds like the problem I have, one of the motors has burned out/gone bad, the brushes are worn down and not making constant contact. So as the motor spins the force feedback skips a bit like its switching on off, on off.

Is this a new wheel? still under warranty? If so I would try to contact Logitech. finding a replacement motor seems like a daunting task.

EDIT: the loosening up you mention (and commented on by King Rocket) could also be from the worn brushes, the stutter is due to the spotty connection of the brushes, loosening up is also related but instead of the on off, on off behavior it is just off (due to the bad brushes).


See post 15
 
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The wheel will go loose to simulate loss of traction, that's normal. The clicking sound is not. I don't spend a lot of time hitting other cars or walls so I'm not too sure on that one.
 
All of this is normal. G27's are notorious for their knocking sounds - I'll assume that's what you meant by "ticking" unless you're talking about something different. If it's a knocking sound, It's due to the plastic piece trying to stop the motors for feedback. Be happy it skips rather than ripping your motor to shreds.

As for looseness in the wheel after going off track, as @King Rocket mentioned, it's somewhat simulating loss of traction AND loosing to let you regain control without burning out your motors (burning out by staying stiff while making big/quick movements) - same effects as having Power Assisted Steering on.

Lastly, the wheel simulates the tires and weight/G forces, not the body of the car. So you won't feel much, or any, of the collision.
 
Hey guys, thanks for your answers.

The wheel is brand new, I bought it last week so I still have time to return it. This is my second try, previous g27 had the same issue and I returned it.

So if the brushes are not worn out they still can be broken. And while I accept that the loose will is because of a lack of traction the clicking in steering wheel is weird.
I'm not sure what @Bluntified means by 'knocking sound'. In my case it's like clicking in cogs when you jump from one 'tick' to another. Is this what you meant?

Either way I'm stuck, don't really have any experience with ffb wheels.
 
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There is a certain "knock" type feedback normally used in rally and other rough events, could this be what your talking about?
 
@dijaz: When the motors are new, the brushes are not fully seated. You have to break them in. My recommendation is to set the FFB levels quite low (2-3 in GT) and allow the brushes time to settle. This will allow them to then carry more amperage and give more accurate FFB when it is set to higher levels. I did this with my G27 and it worked well for ages. I particularly like the FFB algorithm in the G27 and find it more "colourful" than the T500RS, but it is not as smooth or strong. I also strongly recommend the GTEye spring for the brake ;)
 
I'm not sure what @Bluntified means by 'knocking sound'. In my case it's like clicking in cogs when you jump from one 'tick' to another. Is this what you meant?

It's a loud knocking sound, like if you take something and knock the housing of the wheel - that's how it sounds. Pretty loud and unmistakable

There is a certain "knock" type feedback normally used in rally and other rough events, could this be what your talking about?

If you do the rally events as King Rocket mentioned, you hear exactly that knocking sound we're talking about. I can't help but think we're talking about the same thing, though different word to describe it :lol:
 
Hey guys, thanks for your answers.

The wheel is brand new, I bought it last week so I still have time to return it. This is my second try, previous g27 had the same issue and I returned it.

So if the brushes are not worn out they still can be broken. And while I accept that the loose will is because of a lack of traction the clicking in steering wheel is weird.
I'm not sure what @Bluntified means by 'knocking sound'. In my case it's like clicking in cogs when you jump from one 'tick' to another. Is this what you meant?

Either way I'm stuck, don't really have any experience with ffb wheels.
All of this is normal for the G27's for their knocking clicking clunking sounds and that is FFB so there is nothing to worry about.
 
The helical gears of the G27's feedback motors introduces some movement along the axes of the motor shafts (i.e. they don't just spin, they also move in and out) and there are spring-loaded caps on those shafts that sit in the housing as guides. Under significant changes in force, those caps tap the sides of the case and that's why you get knocking sounds. At least I think that's how the explanation goes...

http://jlvrh.de/G27_UK.htm sort of explains what I mean.
 
After reading your answers I've decided to keep the wheel. There is probably nothing wrong with it, I think I just thought it would more 'perfect' :)
Anyway, I'm going to have fun using it. Thanks again for your help.
 
We were all there once, wondering what sounds were what :lol:. It really is a strong wheel though, I've had mine since September 2010 and have no complaints.
 
It wasn't the sound that scared me but the actual feeling of the wheel 'knocking' or 'skipping' inside. Which is very present in rallies. But I've grown to accept it now :]
 
One friend of mine was really hard wheel user, turning wheel aggressively on real car and also on simulators and he broke his G27 few times with high FFB setting and really powerful opposite yank against FFB.
After that yank wheel started clank highly on other way FFB effects and jumping gears, his steering smashes few helical gears.
Power needed to break gears is not small, but some people don't understand even on real car how much force they are pushing to tie rod by aggressive yanks, same goes on plastic simulator wheels.
Friend of mine wasn't powerless guy, weightlifter type guy.
 
I just went from a G25 to a G27 and now I know the knocking you're referring to. Neema t explained it very well, its all down to the helical gears. I fully understand the differences now that I've felt both wheels. The G25 was loud when turning but it was not very clunky, the G27 is very quiet when turning but clunky when driving hard.

Sorry about the erroneous info I gave above, I assumed the G series wheels where fairly similar since most reviews stated something to that effect.
 
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