G27 issue

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Hello!

I've created the account to ask for this, maybe someone knows the solution.

My G27 couldn't get througt the "auto calibration" that makes when you connect it to the PC. Just moves a little to the right and to the left trying to, but nothing, after that it stops moving in a random position and the shifting LEDs keep lit after a while and the shifter LED flashes faster than when it's calibrating.

Weird thing was that yesterday it could get throught the auto-calibrate, but failing cause of bad pinion/rack center, so i've corrected that, and now it doesnt even rotate more than a few degrees.

I've dismantled the wheel again to check if everything was ok and I didn't found anything strange.

Buttons, shifter and pedals work fine. :sick:

Thanks!
 
Could you explain how many times you've opened it up and what you've done each time? It might help shed some light on the situation. I must admit I'm not too familiar with the G27's sensors but it sounds like it's just a sensor issue, if the rack is aligned with the pinion correctly and the motors work then, yeah, stating the obvious here but it must be a sensor reporting an incorrect position.

If it's anything like the Driving Force Pro sensor-wise then the optical sensors on the motor shafts reset themselves when you turn the wheel off, but the DFP also had a small sensor on the, err, big gear on the wheel shaft which I assume is a counter to count full rotations of the wheel. I would imagine if there's anything like that in the G27 then by seating everything correctly the sensor shouldn't be misaligned, unless you did something with it when taking it apart.

Are you sure everything is plugged in to the main board, no loose connections at all? I mean I am pretty clueless, I own a G27 but I've never opened it up, but in the absence of any other replies maybe there's something in this post that will help!

Oh and welcome to GT Planet! Come for the sim racing hardware help, stay for the... Other stuff.
 
This is the full story:

I've bought my G27 in January (2012). Worked perfectly until i've noticed it started heating up after an hour of play, and the FFB disables to protect the system.

I've contacted the Logitech support, and after all, they told me it couldn't be fixed and that they will replace it with a new one but i had to destroy it submerging it on water or cutting its cables.

(And here comes the part that probably some would not like, but I made it for a good reason)

As you could still use it (but for an hour, and letting it rest for 30 min. to cool down) I've decided to save it and give it to a friend who can't afford buying one.

I've (1) disassembled the wheel, having only the motors/gears thing (with no PCB, only that) and covered the motors with plastic so no water would enter on them.

I've submerged them on a sink full of water, the gears/motors thing and the shifter/pedals. Took the photo for Logitech and then took out of water and dry them with compressed air. (Had to disassmbly the shifter and pedals)

After that I let them dry naturally, and after two hours, i've assembled everything again (failing at center of the rack/pinion, didn't saw it has a mark telling where is the center), connected to the PC and it would start turning (as it does when you connect it), turning to the right, then to the left, and when it ends turning to the left, does nothing (not centers, just flashing LED and it keeps in that position).

Disassembled it again (2) to center the rack/pinion (and here I saw the rack has a mark to center it properly), connected everything and assembled it again. Connected to PC, and we got to where i'm now. It just moves a little and nothing.

I've made a video to show it:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GGeNTmrFMuc

I've disassembled it for the third time to see if i've connected everything properly and i've even added a little more of grease to the moving components. But nothing... :sick:

Thanks for the help!
 
Hmmm... While I can see why you've done what you have done, I don't agree with it. I'm basically on side with neema in that I know next to nothing about the internals of a G27. Is it possible that the water crept through your plastic and onto your motors? I just ask because the length of my electrical knowledge pretty much ends at water is bad.
 
Hmmm... While I can see why you've done what you have done, I don't agree with it. I'm basically on side with neema in that I know next to nothing about the internals of a G27. Is it possible that the water crept through your plastic and onto your motors? I just ask because the length of my electrical knowledge pretty much ends at water is bad.

I thought of that, but if motors doesn't work, I think it wouldn't even move.


Here you could see the internals of the G27

http://www.jlvrh.de/G27_UK.htm
 
It's not the motors, if there's a short there then the MOSFETs would've gone bang as soon as you plugged it in. I'm thinking it could be a poor connection due to water residue in the motor connector, electrostatic discharge damage to the logic board, water residue fooling a sensor (maybe) or... That's pretty much it, really; if the rack is centred, the motors work, everything except the calibration works (that would suggest there's no damage to the board, but it's possible (but unlikely) that you somehow managed to only damage the part that does the feedback... Very unlikely!) then my money is on a poor connection. Or a confused or damaged sensor. Hmm.
 
It's not the motors, if there's a short there then the MOSFETs would've gone bang as soon as you plugged it in. I'm thinking it could be a poor connection due to water residue in the motor connector, electrostatic discharge damage to the logic board, water residue fooling a sensor (maybe) or... That's pretty much it, really; if the rack is centred, the motors work, everything except the calibration works (that would suggest there's no damage to the board, but it's possible (but unlikely) that you somehow managed to only damage the part that does the feedback... Very unlikely!) then my money is on a poor connection. Or a confused or damaged sensor. Hmm.

The logic board that it's over the wheel gearbox wasnt submerged in water. The only part of the wheel that was submerged is this:
G27_10.jpg
 
I'm maybe a square but you make a business agreement with Logitech that they would replace the wheel (I assume at no charge) if you destroy the old wheel instead of having you pay to ship it back to them. If Logitech kept their word then you should as well. IMO your word is more important than your friend receiving a broken wheel. Now if it was a real need like food that would be different.
 
I'm maybe a square but you make a business agreement with Logitech that they would replace the wheel (I assume at no charge) if you destroy the old wheel instead of having you pay to ship it back to them. If Logitech kept their word then you should as well. IMO your word is more important than your friend receiving a broken wheel. Now if it was a real need like food that would be different.

I know and that made me think about doing it or not (giving it to my friend), and then about talking of it or not (about the repair of it).

I know too it isn't a necessary thing like food, but this guy, he's a car enthusiast like me, he enjoys playing racing games and he's my best friend, so I will try to "help" him in anyway I can.
 
Last edited:
KidPunk16
The logic board that it's over the wheel gearbox wasnt submerged in water. The only part of the wheel that was submerged is this:

Yes, I understand, but it's common knowledge that the human body can hold an electrostatic charge which must be discharged whenever sensitive electronics are touched. Fortunately it's likely that the G27 is TTL logic rather than CMOS, TTL is still sensitive but CMOS is far more so, but in any case it's possible to kill an electronic circuit without even touching it if your electrostatic charge is high enough. In any case I don't think that's the problem, so it's kind of irrelevant, but it is minutely possible.
 
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