G29 Brake SensitivityPS4

[Woodybobs]

I've always struggled to turn in under braking so I lowered brake sensitivity to 35. It's definitely helped but does it affect potential lap times? ATM I'm trying to avoid setup changes except for tyres, brake balance and brake pressure.

 

[rj5992]

I've always struggled to turn in under braking so I lowered brake sensitivity to 35. It's definitely helped but does it affect potential lap times? ATM I'm trying to avoid setup changes except for tyres, brake balance and brake pressure.

When you say struggle how exactly do you mean? Instant understeer and no turn in at all? Or do you feel like the back end is overtaking the front?

If I remember correctly, changing the brake sensitivity shifts the curve later in the pedal travel. So whilst initial input is more gradual, it will increase quicker to full pressure later in the travel. This may mean you're locking up.

Tbh one of the best braking improvements you can make is to stick a squash ball under the brake pedal arm. This will give a sense of pressure progression and you'll find it easier to control. Just make sure you readjust your sensitivity so the bulk of braking is occurring when you're squashing the ball.

 

[Woodybobs]

Thanks for taking the time to reply @rj5992

When you say struggle how exactly do you mean? Instant understeer and no turn in at all? Or do you feel like the back end is overtaking the front?

Understeer in fast corners that require a little braking, oversteer when I'm trailing off the brakes in slower corners. I guess my problem is that I get from 0% to 50% braking (and vice versa) too quickly so I'm locking up either the fronts or rears depending on the situation.

If I remember correctly, changing the brake sensitivity shifts the curve later in the pedal travel. So whilst initial input is more gradual, it will increase quicker to full pressure later in the travel. This may mean you're locking up.

That's also my understanding of it. GTS uses a similar curve and there is no option to change it. I switch between the two games but I think I've gotten so used to that specific curve that I'm struggling to get used to a linear curve. I'm happy to leave the sensitivity at 35 but I would like to know what are the disadvantages of doing this? Am I better off leaving it at 50 and adapting my technique?

Tbh one of the best braking improvements you can make is to stick a squash ball under the brake pedal arm. This will give a sense of pressure progression and you'll find it easier to control. Just make sure you readjust your sensitivity so the bulk of braking is occurring when you're squashing the ball.

I'll look into that. I've often thought of adapting the G29 brake pedal but my stubbornness to make the stock setup work always wins out.

 

[IfAndOr]

@Woodybobs
Do you still have the rubber bung thingy fitted to your G29 brake pedal?

In PC2 when you calibrate your brake pedal do it slowly and see if 100% on the screen equates to 100% movement of the pedal. I have a G29 but I use it with the peddle set from my G27 - which doesn't have a bung. I found that it was reaching full braking in game before the pedal reached its stop which was causing problems - I'd lock up before I should. I'm assuming the 29 doesn't quite have the range of the 27 possibly because of the factory fitted bung. I solved my problem by fitting a hard stop inside the pedal that mimicked the bung. I haven't quite got the full range of travel now but 100% movement is matched on screen - it's linear. I think that I've reset the sensitivity to 50 or just below.
This was also a problem in GTS it's just that there's not a calibration screen to spot it.

Tbh one of the best braking improvements you can make is to stick a squash ball under the brake pedal arm.

Funnily enough RJ from new I've had a GTeye progressive spring fitted to mine, I removed it about a month ago and I've found I can now brake and modulate better! (although I think I've retained some of the muscle memory from using the stiff spring)

 

[Morgoth_666]

One of the best "adjustments" I made in PC2 to help cure oversteer when coming off the brakes(which used to bother me a lot), really was to forcibly teach my foot to just let up slower/smoother. I know it's not a technical adjustment to your equipment or settings and those can really help, but it really did make a world of difference for me to simply focus on it for a while. It did take some effort to get my brain to do it reliably. Most cars seem to settle down quite well when getting back on the power(too much power notwithstanding) as long as you don't get them over-rotating first.

 

[rj5992]

I'll look into that. I've often thought of adapting the G29 brake pedal but my stubbornness to make the stock setup work always wins out.

Don't bother Woody, all of that is a brain fart on my part. For some reason I thought you had a DFGT and not a G29

I have a G27 and installed the Nixim mod in mine. I highly recommend it over the standard G27 pedals. Your G29 has a cone at the bottom of the pedal travel to have a similar effect as the Nixim mod but I've heard that it's too stiff and merely reduces pedal travel rather than increasing feel.

 

[Blob_91]

For general setup purposes I have made an Excel sheet based upon some setup guides / advises on the internet. I have simply put behind every possible adjustment (besides the third tab) what is does or can correct. I could share it if anyone is interested.

Basically what I do now is see where I struggle ( understeer or oversteer in certain corners ) and see how I can improve it. I am no setup wizard at all and it's very basic but it could be useful for someone who has zero to little setup knowledge.

 

[Sloppy Shades]

I just switched the clutch pedal and brake pedal around in setup and put a wedge of foam behind the clutch pedal. Now I have full travel to make accurate brake application and the resistance feels perfect too. Of course this won't help if you use the manual gear shifter but helps me massively in every car now. Before doing that I never used left foot braking but after a few weeks my left foot became way better than my right with the original brake pedal..one of the few weaker elements of the G29 wheel set, that brake pedal

 

[Woodybobs]

Thanks for all the advice, guys. I've had a few sessions to get used to this game again and I've switched back to the default setting. Perhaps it was placebo but adjusting the BS certainly felt like it helped with the switch from GTS, making it easier to have fun in that initial stage. Once I (somewhat) figured out the physics and tire model, I reverted to default without a problem.

@Blob_91 My setup abilities are extremely immature so I welcome any help. Usually I get overwhelmed with all the info and give up, but I try to retain a little at a time. If you share your spreadsheet I'd definitely take a look.

@Sloppy Shades Your career setups and guides are amazing. The formula C championship nearly had me throwing my PS4 at the TV about a year ago. The guide helped immensely this time around. I'm glad I went back to it because the other open wheel cars are a lot of fun.

 

[Bealdor]

Understeer in fast corners that require a little braking, oversteer when I'm trailing off the brakes in slower corners. I guess my problem is that I get from 0% to 50% braking (and vice versa) too quickly so I'm locking up either the fronts or rears depending on the situation.

Go into car setup and increase the engine braking setting (engine tab). This will lower the engine braking (confusing, I know) and get rid of most of the oversteer at the end of the braking zone.
If that's not enough, move brake bias a little bit forward.

 

[Woodybobs]

Go into car setup and increase the engine braking setting (engine tab). This will lower the engine braking (confusing, I know) and get rid of most of the oversteer at the end of the braking zone.
If that's not enough, move brake bias a little bit forward.

Thanks, man. Increasing the engine braking setting is the single best bit of info I've gotten over the past couple of weeks. It's the first thing I change now if I'm getting used to a new car or track. Bang that up a few clicks until I feel confident and then see if I can lower it and control the rotation.

 

[Mr Grumpy]

Lowering the rear anti roll bar helps a lot with lift off oversteer as well.

I prefer to lower the rear than raise the front, but needs must when finding a balance.

More camber on the rear than the front helps stabilise the car too.

You can always use brake bias & LSD to counter any unwanted understeer, but at least the car feels more stable.

 

[zaxs]

Got G29 and pC2 as well (again), don't remember of any FFB settings so someone please help me.

The RAW 100-40-5-10 doesn't work for me at all...no good feeling of wheel.

 

[IfAndOr]

no good feeling of wheel.

FFB is a very personal thing, what's a good feeling for one person isn't necessarily the same for someone else.

But for a more lively G29 wheel try - Informative, 90, 35, 60, 10. Then give it a few laps for the auto calibration to take effect. If you want a heavier or lighter wheel adjust the volume up or down in stages. Remember each car can feel different so it's useful to have the FFB buttons mapped - a usb keyboard/keypad is great for this.