G923 or G29 Super faster mod all done cheap 😊

[mr-ramsbottom]

Hey just thought I would share 😉

I've only race for 2 hours and already I'm seeing super improvement, plus I can't wait to race again, now that much is improving.

From all the improvements I'm talking about I'll share in the videos I've uploaded.

This is me in the vid and it's Also all my own work

Let me know how I could improve it further

But after I start racing again tomorrow I'll give a better review next week, but I'm confident it will be good.
Part 1

Part 2

Part 3 1st day with mod and all ready winnings races at b class


second day with new mod and FR cars I've never had any good race with làst set up and susuka has always been a track I've never connected with, but here I am already only 3 secs away from the world record pace, I can go faster to but I'm still working on my new setup. But this is a massive improvement for me at susuka


Update the Back rest for my ankle was to close so I've cut it out and it's better in the pics below is the best place for feet to line up,

I'm working on some other mod for an ankle mod instead, or tho I'm not sure it needs improving but you never know, I'm thinking maybe an ankle strap with an ankle holding tray that pivots, stay tuned for that one 😂

Further mod third day of testing now and I've welded an extension steel plate for the wheel,

It's now sturdy and the whole setup is now setup to achieve maximum performance with no movement anywhere under braking and steering.

Plus with the addition extension metal plate, it brings my steering wheel closer to my body, which has really help me control the car more 😊.

 

[mr-ramsbottom]

Ok so it's been 6 days since the changes and upgrades and I've decided to make some further changes today.

Firstly since the changes I've only done six laps a daily race suzuka and just beat my lap record by 7/10, but falling short by 5/10 on my first sector.

So it's possible I can now get a 1.59 secs flat at suzuka which would put me in the A-Class for sure. I'm positive I can break into the 1.58 secs as I'm getting a much better feal on trail braking

Here's the lap




Changes made was I brought the brake pedal forward by using spaces like I did with my accelerator, because the brake pedals first part of the spring on the Logitech wheels is softer compared to the last part of the spring. When engaging it. so by pulling it forward a bit with the spaces I now have the same resistance right throughout the brake spring.

In the picture take note of how far down the black tube is on the red tube on the brake pedal 😉 and make comparison with your own, you'll get the picture.

And last change was i completely swapped the accelerator pedal for the whole clutch pedal including pedometer which had not been used ever.

It's hard to say what's made the significant change in my new lap time , whether it's a combination of both the accelerator and the brake pedal change or whether it's just the brake pedal

Since making the change and having the better brake resistance as in the same tension in the spring all the way through, as in no softness. First press and now. just the same hardness all the way right through has improved my trail braking

But also the acceleration seems smoother whether that's because it's a brand new pedometer that's never been used, it's hard to say as the accelerator had been used that much it was kind of like rocking a bit when pressing it up and down but it's not happening now because the clutch was brand new and there's no rocking at all.

Also since moving the brake pedal forward, the pedal is now even closer to the floor, which brings my foot closer to the floor and it's much more comfortable, in fact I could drive with my feet like that all day engaging the stiff brake whilst feeling comfortable the whole time. Because no foot slips same pressure, and with the feet in a more natural position


I really do believe that all these pedal and stands out there are all back to front on my opinion




Anyhow in space of twenty laps my lap times have improved by 2 secs already

 

[mr-ramsbottom]

More changes coming soon such as hydronic rods and I'm making an ankle pivot tray that will hopefully add even more control, I'm unsure which rods to go for yet. But the pivot tray I think is going to be good.. but at this stage I'm not sure I could improve these pedals much more but we will see.

I've done away with the the extra plate I put on the brake to pull it forward as there not making a different to lap times.

I'm finding the brake more controllable with them off.. I think i may of of got that one wrong. But I'm just experimenting.

Ill post my new work soon hopefully.

For now here's my new personal best at grand valley reverses today. Which is also 4/10 down on my optimal,

Grand valley dailey 158.739

 

[mr-ramsbottom]

Further changes made and just now after the changes I set another personal best at grand valley today at 158.561

I'm confident I can break into the 157 laps no problem.

Now don't laugh at this design because surprisingly it actually works pretty well.

It's keeps the ankle in the same position at all time improving consistency and confidence.




I was making a pivot tray out of metal but there where to many issues

Because of lack of flex.

So I went for my hush puppy sandke which are incredibly soft flexible and well strapped.

This could go down in history as the most in genius design ever lol 😂

But anyhow out of all the tests I've done, for me when the pedals are inverted this way bare feet works the best without the pivot tray. And better than racing socks.

 

[mr-ramsbottom]

Ok more changes made and these one have made a real difference 😉.

First the above heal experiment was just an experiment but for it to work properly you would have to cut your sandals in half so it's just your heal strapped, and in that way you would still be bare foot on the pedals 😉.

But I've done away with this experiment and found a better solution.

The issue was not my heal moving, it was my toe sliding up the pedal. To stop this I've put some wood stoppers on the pedals as seen in the picture and it's now working like a charm and breeding confidence, as the feet are now always in control.

Now the best change of all which has gave me a new personal best at grand valley daily last night of 158.247. and also got an optimal of 157.6 which I'll get tonight or tomorrow, because I'm very confident in the this new change, the best part is I only did 10 laps or so since the changes, but the changes I've made is giving me so much extra information through the force feed back that it's going to take me 2 days or so to get use to I think.

The changes I made have 100 percent returned the force feed back issues the G923 wheels are renown to having back to normal and made it even better. The wheel is like completely a new wheel and as upped the force feed back, if your not aware, the force feed back issues are one of very weak and one of feeling if being disconnected from the wheel or very inconsistent lap times as the the force feeds back motors get hotter and force feed back gets weeker. Or you just have weak force feed back from the get go.

I've installed two 18 volt fans powered.by separate 24 volt 0.6 amp power supply as seen in the picture, which was easy to do, as I've simplified it. Anyone wanting further info let me know. The fans are covering both motors left and right and the main circuit board 😉

At first i never had the plastic lunch box containers side completely sealed, and the wheel was only holding its full strength force feedback for 3 to four laps before losing some of its power again, due to air from the fans escaping and not sucking enough air in due to gaps

So i used duck tape to tape the plastic container completely to the wheel, which has now completely blows all the air into the wheel and now the wheel holds full force feed back lap after lap and the feal is phenomenal, which is breeding even more confidence.

It's so good it's brought a huge smile to my face, as you feel so much more in control and the extra information I'm now getting back from the wheel, make me feal so confident on the track, which undoubtedly has huge potential for even faster laps.

Edit next day after fan upgrade The really Good news is now the force feedback strength can be turned up to 9 and 9 with out any disconnect from the force feed back.

Which is brilliant as before the highest I could go was 4 and 5 to stop it disconnecting from the force feed back. But at that level on this wheel it's so weak, you may as well have it switched of.

Now it's much better strong feeling through the wheel on slides acceleration and grip all through the wheel at a stronger level of feeling in your hand, and you recognise the difference between slides acceleration and grip 😉

Unfortunately with the force feedback at 10 and 10 it still makes the ffb behave irregular, on and off. But that really doesn't matter as 9 and 9 is strong enough,

 

[flair1111]

i inverted my pedals 3 yrs ago. thats the way most cars are. i just swapped the gas and clutch pedal location and flipped the entire g29 pedal unti upside down and bolted it to my rig.. ill post some pics tomorrow if i have time. feels more real for me

 

[mr-ramsbottom]

i inverted my pedals 3 yrs ago. thats the way most cars are. i just swapped the gas and clutch pedal location and flipped the entire g29 pedal unti upside down and bolted it to my rig.. ill post some pics tomorrow if i have time. feels more real for me

cool 😉 , sounds like you found a simple solution like me, upload it as it may spark some more ideas and be useful to others,

I've made some more changes, which is now got me buzzing for when I have more time to race,

I glued some rubber pads on the pedals, which feels lovely, I'm thinking this would not work as well on pedals that haven't been inverted.

Also I put an extra weld on top of the pedal mounting plate, so now my rig just does not move at all under braking 😉.

Then lastly i took the spring out of the brake pedal, then I put put a washer in first that was the same width of the spring, then put the spring back in but for more precision I filed 3 slots out of the inside of the washer, so it fitted in the housing perfectly, which I put in the top black section I found works best , I also put a little plate under the pedal so that the brake would only travel 65 percent, the washer made the first 65 percent go a lovely stiffness and feel, that I really think I'm going to get faster than this new all time best at weather tech today heres the lap 😊.

Also I'm awaiting some hydraulic rods which may work or not,

Since putting the fans on both motors, the force feed back has been beautiful.

 

[mr-ramsbottom]

More mods made today and this is a super hack, and I've been trying lots of different pedals spring adjustment combinations to the pedal, which i have to say is so easy to tinker with now I have the pedals inverted.


Firstly here's my new personal best at dragon trail reverse today, which I'm very confident I can shave half a second of this lap 1:40.099 at the moment, and probably more once I get more use to the new set up.



Ok so firstly I have done away with the wood stopper on the accelerator.

I've then put the clutch spring which is stiffer in the accelerator, but made it even stiffer by putting a 2 milli thick washer in the red spring housing first, in doing this made only 80 percent throttle available, so i set it to 75 percent in the pedal calibration gt7 tool, also in setting t it to 75 percent I get full throttle at all times, also in doing this it makes the first part of the.spring which is softer redundant, and gives you the same spring resistance all the way through the last part of the spring, cool.

I've only been testing two hours and the results are blowing me away.

Now for the brake mod, well I'm still waiting my hydraulic rods to come from china, so in the mean time I've done a quick experiment with a spring I got from my local hardware store, and i have to say I don't think the hydraulic rods will beat this feal. It's still in development but the potential is there.

Spring I used is from here https://www.diy.com/departments/blo...filiate&utm_content=&utm_term=1812968&irgwc=1

Firstly you have to heat the spring up with a blow torch or a fire, them stretch it with two pairs of vice grips just so it lengthens by about a few center meters or so. Then you cut a stretched section of the spring off the same length as accelerator spring that comes with the g923,

Them I've used the clutch pedal housing to hold it just in the right place so that when the brake returns I've got more control over the rebound, the spring basically acts like a hydraulic rod and slows the return down, it's in development at the moment, but in the picture you should get the message, and this is exactly how the spring is in position, it's not straight at the moment but it still works well, the trick is you have to push the clutch housing and the spring above wood stopper just hard enough so it only moves the brake pedal down a little bit then clamp it as you'll see in the picture it's temporary clamped with two vice grips, it rebounds good but it's not straight at the moment, but I have tried it straight and it's no different, bedsides it's easier this way, I have done easy simple ideas and I'm going to mod something that will keep it straight to see if it works as well but I doubt it would but we will see, you do need to put some wood stoppers on the pedal to, as seem in the picture, but the good thing about the wood stopper is it also keeps your foot just in the right place 👍

I'll come up with a better design soon. But also like what I did with the accelerator spring adding a washer first inside the red housing I did with the brake, which with a long side the clutch pedal mod and the local hardware store spring in, made me have to set a minimum input of ,40 percent, but that's brill, as the the last part of the brake spring that comes with the Logitech wheels feels super nice. And in doing it it makes it stiffer, and has just enough strength to push the other spring back up that I've mounted on top, which you'll see in the picture, it doesn't return to slow, and helps you to return it slower and hold the brake better which is such a help exiting from a corner and entering into another. Also in doing this I now don't need the plate I put in place to make the brake only travel so far, that's gone to.

More mods coming soon 😁

 

[mr-ramsbottom]

Some more changes made today, and I do believe that the g923 can be as competitive as any wheel out there and any advanced a plus driver now with the changes made, big statement I know but the proof is in the pudding, and once again I've just set a new personal best at dragon trail reverse with a one minute 139.798, which was 3/10 of my personal best for the first sector because I hit the bump.

Which would put me at 1:39.4 which would only be 4/10 of the fastest lap sets in this group 4 car for this track.

Here's the lap, I'm also confidence I can't get 139 flat at the moment which would equal the fastest lap set in this car for this track.



The changes made was I set the wheel to default settings with ghub, and rte force feed back to nine and nine in gt7.

Next changes was I pushed the brake clutch mod down further so that I could only use 50 percent of the brake, and walla the brakes are getting better and better for me,

Also I've attached a tension wire under the wheel so that there no movent under steering and lastly I got some new comfy suede cushions 😁

 

[flair1111]

heres mine. as stated i just reverse swapped the gas and clutch pedals then mounted entire g29 pedal box upside down. made some extension braces also as you can see to help adjust the pedals the right distance from me. to get the pedals at the height i wanted i had to drill new holes in the pedal bracket on my race rig. all was easy.

 

[mr-ramsbottom]

Well more changes needed, as unfortunately the force feedback has started to still go weak after a a lap or two today causing all sorts of crazy happenings on track to. , which when it does go weak it's also effecting my pace and traction, which is weird, but it really is.

For instance when I first turn on the ps4 and go straight into a time trial my first lap is always faster than my second lap, today despite me not doing anything different, and I'll try to get close but naa, not having it, restart the console cool it down for five minutes and boom first lap back to normal, then yup lack of pace afterwards as the force feedback starts to weaken I start to lose traction also, and the car behaves like it's being driven by a complete noob at times.

I've had issues all day again with force feed back so my next step is putting heatsinks onto the motors, as it's not good having to push harder with a car that has lack of traction due to force feed back issues, it's not my driving skills, what a nightmare it's been today I can tell you. Yep people will say lack of force-feed back would not cause lack of traction but for sure it really is, I'm not sure how this could be but my guess Is that the force feedback is linked to the traction of the car within the software, and when it the force feedback motors get hot and the force feed back goes week for some strange reason so does the traction of the car, or it could be, because I have lack of force feed back and no longer feeling true traction, I'm pushing in places I shouldn't be 😔, but I'm pretty sure even when the force feed back goes week I'm still taking the corners the same.


Anyhow Specifically I'm putting these heat sinks on

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Aluminum-E...-Accessories/dp/B09NPZQN6H/?tag=gtplanetuk-21

After this I think I'll get a fan gt dd pro if it doesn't fix the issue.

If I could get it so the force feed back stays at full strength it would be a good wheel, but now the stupid rattling has started to play up again Also what a joke.

I'll know in two days if it's going to work one last try,

But to be honest I'm glad I've got to bottom of what's been causing my very bizarre laps times.