General Tuning Tips

[unimental]

Here's a couple of quick-and-easy tips to maximize any car's performance and point usage in races or time trials with point caps:

- For RWD cars, use one number lower for tires on the front end. Example: if you're running R3's on the rear, choose R2's on the front. You'll get more out of weight reduction or power points instead of matching tires. This technique is appearing at the top of pretty much every online hot-lap leaderboard, and can be reversed for FWD cars (R3 on front, R2 in rear).

- Drop the ride height at least 10mm on the front and rear to lower the car's center of gravity. I've dropped most of my cars pretty low without running into a bottoming-out situation.

 

[jgda9rs]

wouldnt miss matched tires be a bad combination if you run with no abs ? maybe it's great for drifting but i doubt it would work with grip racing, specially in eiger norwand or the ring and suzuka.

 

[Beerz]

wouldnt miss matched tires be a bad combination if you run with no abs ? maybe it's great for drifting but i doubt it would work with grip racing, specially in eiger norwand or the ring and suzuka.

My thoughts exactly.

While braking hard into a turn, with harder tires on the front your braking distance will increase and as J pointed out, without ABS, they're more likely to lock.
Same goes for the rear. If you're driving a FWD car, which usually has already a weight distribution towards the front of the car, by using harder tires on the back, you're just going to make the car slide the rear, especially while braking under cornering.

Besides, if you're able to choose R3's for a certain race, what's the point in deliberately having less grip on the car's front? How can less grip = better laptimes? It doesn't compute.

Also, when you say 'drop the ride height', it would probably be a good idea to say why, as many people don't have much knowledge on car setups and will apply that regardless of the car, and not even knowing why they're doing it.

 

[MrMoe]

Hi, i was just wandering if there are any specific tips for tuning for Suzuka? I am bit new (to posting) so i'm not sure if this would be the right area to ask. I am having a bit of a struggle to do S10.

 

[jgda9rs]

more info would be great. but you want the car to be as neutral as you can make it, since suzuka is very unforgiving. believe me

 

[Rapidone]

Here's a couple of quick-and-easy tips to maximize any car's performance and point usage in races or time trials with point caps:

- For RWD cars, use one number lower for tires on the front end. Example: if you're running R3's on the rear, choose R2's on the front. You'll get more out of weight reduction or power points instead of matching tires. This technique is appearing at the top of pretty much every online hot-lap leaderboard, and can be reversed for FWD cars (R3 on front, R2 in rear).

- Drop the ride height at least 10mm on the front and rear to lower the car's center of gravity. I've dropped most of my cars pretty low without running into a bottoming-out situation.

Heh, the tyre idea seems obvious now that you mention it. I'll definately be playing with that idea.

As for the ride height drop, it hasn't worked for me with the tuned lotus111, seems to give less grip.

 

[Scaff]

As for the ride height drop, it hasn't worked for me with the tuned lotus111, seems to give less grip.

That's because their is no such thing as a one-size fits all tuning method, what works for one car and driver, may not work for another. Tuning is also always a series of compromises, what you may gain in one are you can loose in another.

With a car as light as the Elise you need a degree of weight transfer to get grip to the end you need it, so reducing ride height and be effect reducing load transfer may not actually help.

Each and every car needs to be tuned to suit it, the course and the driver. Sorry to say that quick general fixes don't work, they don't work in the real world, they didn't work in the previous GTs and the don't work in GT5. In fact the better the physics engine gets the more care needs to be taken to tune to the individual situation.


Regards

Scaff

 

[thespine10]

I am trying to find the best setup to finish the sclass but it looks really dificuld. Anyone helps me?

 

[Polo609GT]

So only the tuned cars can be manualy tuned? OR does it apply to all because I cant find the tuning screen.

 

[Tired Tyres]

It's unlocked when you clear the A class events.

 

[Rocket Punch]

IMO, using different compound F/R is never a good idea, but thats just me.

It is an "easy way out" to set-up the car and are only used sometimes in situations where the rule/regulation of the sport prevents you from making any suspension adjustments (like in certain class of autocross). It is almost never used in circuit racing because different compound wears and heats up differently.

This results in unpredictable handling and often suspension settings will have to be compromised to compensate for that. It would be similar to chopping your fingers off because you don't want to trim your finger nails again.

 

[mustang245]

If you take a look at most exotic road cars/F1, you'll find 'bigs/littles'. Wide tires on rear, narrowER tires on front, for somewhat obvious reasons, regardless of powertrain layout. Since we cannot do this, Unimental's proposal is sound advice,IMHO...

 

[Scaff]

If you take a look at most exotic road cars/F1, you'll find 'bigs/littles'. Wide tires on rear, narrowER tires on front, for somewhat obvious reasons, regardless of powertrain layout. Since we cannot do this, Unimental's proposal is sound advice,IMHO...

Which is also already modeled in GT5, as we have the 'correct' size wheels and tyres on the cars. The reasons this is done are also often 'less' than obvious. With F1 cars its a combination of the regualtions and aerodynamics meaning they would not put bigger tyres on the front at all.

With a lot of road cars its down to the rather large point that the front tyres also have to steer and wide front tyres are both more difficult to turn and generally have poorer turn-in (particularly if they are low profile - very little sidewall flex).

What also remains true is that for a lot of cars the front track is wider than the rear track to help make up for any difference in tyre size. In addition smaller front tyres also disadvantage you under braking, as load always shifts forward under braking the front tyres do the vast majority of the work (often in excess of 70% of the work under threshold braking).

What at first seems a simple and rather obvious set of reasons is actually anything but, running differing compounds front and rear will play havok with a set-up and can often be very counter productive. I'm not saying don't do it (although I personally don't), just be very aware that the set-up will need to be adjusted so you don't lose more than you gain, particualrly under braking, an area in which a lot of races are won or lost.

Simple and obvious solutions are very rarely simple and obvious in reality and the wonderful world of car set-ups is an area that is particularly true for.


Regards

Scaff

 

[BB-ANDY-]

ty for the tips

 

[nd 4 holden spd]

I have a good tuning tip (sorry for this advertising), try some of my setups at The Lion's Den, I put hard work in just for you guys to drive my cars, hopefully even give you an edge over the online competition. I know the setups list is rather short at the moment but I'm working on it

 

[magburner]

I've got some tips that might be useful, and they are general enough to be applicable to all cars. I don't have much knowledge of actual car mechanics or setting up cars according to actual physics, but from my observations of the game, they mostly hold true.

1.1) Keep an eye on the coloured bars when you alter a cars suspension settings, because some settings will affect them.

For instance camber alters them ever so slightly. From my observations, and experimentations, some camber is good, it can increase grip slightly. Too much though and it will decrease you cornering and braking level.

1.2) Test the final gear through all settings.

I've noticed this with the tuned Corvette, that if you set it low, the top speed will decrease, but if you increase it, your top speed will increase, but increase it too much and it will decrease again. find the sweet spot for your car.

2) If you want to make a car faster and easier to handle, reduce the weight before you increase the BHP. This is especially important on Daytona Speedway! With a lighter car, you can keep to the racing line almost perfectly, without needing to brake combine this with front downforce settings, and you will have

3) Front downforce can dramatically increase cornering ability, with very little speed lost. Rear downforce will also increase cornering ability, but this has more of an effect on top speed and acceleration.

4) If a car steps out a lot with close gearings, lengthen them considerably. I have set my tuned Corvette to 300mph top speed, and it reduces wheel spin a lot. With the 300mph setting for the final gearing, I can still get times of 2.08.xxx to 2.10.xxx at Suzuka.