GT3 Drift Logic - Am I wrong?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Ten
  • 10 comments
  • 706 views

Ten

Messages
956
Messages
doriPop
Let me start by telling you that I have a very basic knowledge of cars and how they work. My knowledge is limited to what I've seen on TV, experienced in racing games, and encountered while working at a salvage yard for a few summers.

With this in mind, I want you to tell me if I am incorrect in any statements I make with this thread. When I build a drift car, and when I perform the drift itself, my mechanical knowledge plays a very small role in how I perform. I instead rely on my logic and work within the bounds of what I imagine physics would allow.

Buying tires: What will merit me the least amount of traction at high speeds? This is obvious to me, as simulation tires seem the equivalent of standard real-life sport tires.

Acceleration: I'll be sliding alot, which means I'll be losing speed. What will I need to keep my speed up through a turn? The LSD adjustments and sportier gear settings seem most logical. Also, adding a triple plate clutch seems to make the bite more intense and results in a much more efficient shift, resulting in a much less noticeable loss in speed.

Counter-grip: To me, this is where suspension and camber settings really seem to make an impact. The less rubber touching the ground, the better. Adjusting the front camber so that mostly the inner edge of the tire is what meets road seems to help the car oversteer, dipping the nose into the corner as my rear wheels ride more of the outer edge of their tires, allowing for the car to find it's angle more efficiently. The stock suspension allows much play for feints, and it seems to me as if it balances out the offset and reversed cambers of each set of wheels.

Gear-grinding This seems to help with throttle regulation through larger turns. If I absolutely must slow down, but I need to keep my throttle buried to hold my angle/line, I downshift and let the transmission whine. This seems to work, at least for me. When I reach the end of the turn, I'll find myself sliding too far, inducing a spin. I upshift into the proper gear, my tires bite, and I straighten out using countersteer and letting the car ease back into place on it's own.

Momentum regulation: I worry at times about this when building a drift car. If I lower the weight too much, will I be able to carry my car through the turn on power alone? Or, on the other hand, if it weighs too much, will my drivetrain be enough to counter the momentum of diving into a turn? Will my tires be able to grab well enough to stop the car from dragging itself into a wall? Will the car have enough momentum to propel itself enough to break traction where and when I need it to?

These things are constantly on my mind when I play GT3, drifting or not. My lack of actual technical knowledge forces me to depend on my logic.

This is how I drift. This is how I've drifted since I knew how to operate a videogame console. It's never really failed me, but I have a feeling I may be doing better or worse than I think I am.

I would greatly appreciate feedback.
 
I build Drift Cars everytime I play GT3 and i hardly touch the gears and etc, but the routine i do in order to get a drift going is all the same no matter the corner or how long it is... just find the perfect line
 
TenTen-san
Let me start by telling you that I have a very basic knowledge of cars and how they work. My knowledge is limited to what I've seen on TV, experienced in racing games, and encountered while working at a salvage yard for a few summers.

With this in mind, I want you to tell me if I am incorrect in any statements I make with this thread. When I build a drift car, and when I perform the drift itself, my mechanical knowledge plays a very small role in how I perform. I instead rely on my logic and work within the bounds of what I imagine physics would allow.

Buying tires: What will merit me the least amount of traction at high speeds? This is obvious to me, as simulation tires seem the equivalent of standard real-life sport tires.

Acceleration: I'll be sliding alot, which means I'll be losing speed. What will I need to keep my speed up through a turn? The LSD adjustments and sportier gear settings seem most logical. Also, adding a triple plate clutch seems to make the bite more intense and results in a much more efficient shift, resulting in a much less noticeable loss in speed.

Counter-grip: To me, this is where suspension and camber settings really seem to make an impact. The less rubber touching the ground, the better. Adjusting the front camber so that mostly the inner edge of the tire is what meets road seems to help the car oversteer, dipping the nose into the corner as my rear wheels ride more of the outer edge of their tires, allowing for the car to find it's angle more efficiently. The stock suspension allows much play for feints, and it seems to me as if it balances out the offset and reversed cambers of each set of wheels.

Gear-grinding This seems to help with throttle regulation through larger turns. If I absolutely must slow down, but I need to keep my throttle buried to hold my angle/line, I downshift and let the transmission whine. This seems to work, at least for me. When I reach the end of the turn, I'll find myself sliding too far, inducing a spin. I upshift into the proper gear, my tires bite, and I straighten out using countersteer and letting the car ease back into place on it's own.

Momentum regulation: I worry at times about this when building a drift car. If I lower the weight too much, will I be able to carry my car through the turn on power alone? Or, on the other hand, if it weighs too much, will my drivetrain be enough to counter the momentum of diving into a turn? Will my tires be able to grab well enough to stop the car from dragging itself into a wall? Will the car have enough momentum to propel itself enough to break traction where and when I need it to?

These things are constantly on my mind when I play GT3, drifting or not. My lack of actual technical knowledge forces me to depend on my logic.

This is how I drift. This is how I've drifted since I knew how to operate a videogame console. It's never really failed me, but I have a feeling I may be doing better or worse than I think I am.

I would greatly appreciate feedback.


You seem understand.

Like NK said no matter what you do all you need to do is take the perfect line, or what ever suits you best. Every drifter here has different styles, so some of the time the lines are different.

When your talking about "Momentum regulation" you might want to check out the statistics of the car and check out how heavy/light the car is so that you buy anything by mistake.

When your on the track mark off points when to break and turn to insure your taking the right line. Practice one turn at a time instead of taking on the whole course at one time.

Have any more questions I'll be happy to help
 
Momentum regulation: I worry at times about this when building a drift car. If I lower the weight too much, will I be able to carry my car through the turn on power alone? Or, on the other hand, if it weighs too much, will my drivetrain be enough to counter the momentum of diving into a turn? Will my tires be able to grab well enough to stop the car from dragging itself into a wall? Will the car have enough momentum to propel itself enough to break traction where and when I need it to?
momentum regulation?
just say inertia, man =P

i don't know where i've heard it, but, i've been told to only use stage 2 lightening and that stage 3 makes it too light. with that said, i also tend to use sports flywheels so that it doesn't decelerate as fast.
Also, adding a triple plate clutch seems to make the bite more intense and results in a much more efficient shift, resulting in a much less noticeable loss in speed.
i've been using double/single plate clutches. i figure i don't want to change RPM too fast.

If I absolutely must slow down, but I need to keep my throttle buried to hold my angle/line, I downshift and let the transmission whine.
i usually don't think of slowing down during a turn, grip or drift. if i were drifting, i'd assume my entry speed is too high. if i were gripping, i'd try to use more weight shifting techniques during the actual turn to adjust my line and speed... something i've learned after getting golds on some of those licenses.

imo, don't think about it too much and just fine tune yourself to the controls =P
 
kainzero
i don't know where i've heard it, but, i've been told to only use stage 2 lightening and that stage 3 makes it too light.

Whoever they were, they were wrong... The lighter the car, the more control you have over it... Weight is always a hinderance...

with that said, i also tend to use sports flywheels so that it doesn't decelerate as fast.

If your gears are tuned well, and you watch your gauges (shift well) that shouldn't be a problem...

i've been using double/single plate clutches. i figure i don't want to change RPM too fast.

It's your choice, but a triple plate will give you better shifting response...



;)
 
Yea with what you said all seems to make sense. ( Logical ^^ )

but what did you mean by sportier gear settings do you mean e.g sorter gears
and what LSD do you use.
 
Whoever they were, they were wrong... The lighter the car, the more control you have over it... Weight is always a hinderance...
in studying airplanes, they say fighter jets aren't very stable, but they have lots of control. the original wright flyer was also built not for stability, but for control. on the converse side, passenger airplanes are very stable but don't offer a lot of control... so i applied this theory to cars.
i am losing a lot of control but i exchange it for stability. in other words, i don't have to be as precise with the input, although i do have less control.
If your gears are tuned well, and you watch your gauges (shift well) that shouldn't be a problem...
i'm not very educated when it comes to tuning cars, but i thought that the flywheel contributes a bit to acceleration, and that if it were light it generates more response but if it were heavier it wouldn''t decelerate/accelerate as fast... so i figured that i'd have it accelerate a bit but not decelerate so much while drifting.
 
Forgive me for ressurecting this thread, I have been away for a few days and I just wish to answer the questions asked of me and thank you all for your input.

As for why I posted this here AND at the IDM forums, I wanted to recieve input from many people...to see how their views and mine differ. Call it a randomly useless study to help me quell some doubts that I have about my abilities. I figured it would yield the best results if I posted it at multiple forums.

Again, my apologies for bringing this thread back from the dead. Feel free to let it fall back into the archival abyss.

^_^;
 
do what your comfortable with doing. if you feel you need to break or release the accelerator, then do so. once you've learned every aspect and characteristics of your car, you can use its disadvantages as its advantage.

as for your techniques, its good and logical. if you feel good in how you drive--then let no one tell you how to redo your techniques because it can very well mess you up. when you start out with a car, keep it stock and add on mods peice by peice instead of throwing in a whole bunch of mods. this way you can feel every single difference of what the parts make.
 
tougedrft
when you start out with a car, keep it stock and add on mods peice by peice instead of throwing in a whole bunch of mods. this way you can feel every single difference of what the parts make.



how true that is my friend.
 
Back