Having Trouble Braking In A Straight Line

  • Thread starter GTPLam
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GTPLam

GTPLam

92
United States
United States
StealingL2
On tracks like California Highway 1 there is very little room to brake in a straight line because of all the bends and twist. Therefore I have to brake gradually and gently into the corners and try my best to keep my steering wheel straight but sometimes my steering wheel will be little tiny slightly turned and causes my car to spin out violently for example braking into the first 2 hairpins on California Highway 1. No matter how gently I push on my brake pedal the car almost always spins out and is impossible to save or countersteer. I'm using stock default RUF RGT with all assists off.

(It feels like playing GT5/6 with no ABS on 5/5 brake bias for those that play GT know what I mean.)
 
The RUF RGT-8 in both its road and racing GT3 guise both get really upset easily under braking. I would probably just give up trying to cover all the braking in a straight line if there really is that little room and try setting the car up to be more stable under trail braking. Increase the differential lock under braking and the preload, and increase the stiffness of the front springs and (maybe) dampers.

EDIT: Just realized what you were talking about. Post revised. My bad.
 
Last edited:
Wow thanks for the very helpful answers guys especially Yayoi for the informative post. I tried lowering the brake pressure and adjusting the bias and it made it so much better!

Just out of curiosity I wonder if an actual RUF RGT in real life handles like this? Is it realistic? Do road production cars in real life allow you to tune brake pressure/bias on the fly so easily like that, because I'm trying to stay as close as possible to the real stock form of the car in real life itself. Maybe some RUF/Porsche owners can shed some light :lol:
 
One trick is to lift and coast for a second before you hit the brakes. This settles the weight over all four corner which should lessen the weight transfer when you hit the binders and make the rear a little more stable. Also, a little maintenance throttle will help. When you hit the brakes keep just a little bit of throttle applied (like 5-10%), this will make the weight transfer happen gradually instead of suddenly.

And yes, all MR or RR cars (to varying degrees) like to chase their tail if you lift and turn at the same time. But modifying your braking technique can usually cure it without needing to adjust your setup.
 
Haven't tried the RGT8 yet but I was also having similar problems with the F1 Longtail and the Capri Zakspeed. After a while I just got used to knowing how much pressure to apply to the brake. Not even using a wheel. The trick is to brake gently and early and not to accelerate on corners while steering because the RR and MR cars will start 'fishtailing' everywhere.
 

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