Help getting off the line faster.

[RedWolfRacer]

I've noticed that no matter what car I'm using and what position I qualify, I usually am passed at the start of races by computer cars. I'm not too worried about this as I usually win anyway but it's driving me nuts not knowing why I have such a slow launch from a static beginning (instead of a running start).

I'm thinking maybe it's technique. I always run manual transmission revving the car on and off rhythmically. I find the rhythmic apprach (instead of holding the accelerator and letting the rev limiter to drop my speed) is usually faster, but not fast enough.

Any general tips or tuning suggests that will help me get off the line a bit faster?

 

[Duke]

Hi, Red, and welcome to GTPlanet.

Try a search limited to the GT3 board and subforums, for the word "launch" in the thread title only. Or try "launch technique" in the body of the threads.

 

[RedWolfRacer]

Hi, Red, and welcome to GTPlanet.

Try a search limited to the GT3 board and subforums, for the word "launch" in the thread title only. Or try "launch technique" in the body of the threads.

Did. These are the only threads that came up.

 

[Automotive]

Make sure that you equip the car with a fly wheel. This should help. Fly wheels are for the rev. Depending on the car your driving, apply a harder traction, but be carful how hard you make it. It can make the car harder to turn. Remember, every car is different so each car you own has to be tweaked. 👍

 

[Emohawk]

No TCS: Do the 0-100m test repeatedly in your car of choice, changing the launch RPMs, throttle load, and shift points untill you get the best result. It's easy to tell what's working from the ghost.
There are ways to optimize the suspention for straight-line acceleration, but these are mostly not good for making a car that can turn.
TCS: floor it.

 

[Jacks]

Correct me if i'm wrong but isn't the best way to start (in a real car) to hold the revs on the point where the engine has most torque, and then let the clutch slip a little until the wheels almost spin then put your foot down. I know there is no clutch in GT but just try holding the revs on the point which has most torque.

 

[Emohawk]

Maybe, I don't know a lot about drag technique in real cars. The problem is that that GT3 won't tell you when the highest torque is.
Also, many of the cars have too much torque and you'll just end up spinning the wheels, going nowhere. (this is why having no clutch is bad)

 

[RedWolfRacer]

Yeah, my wheels spin with no TCS. With it on a low setting, I'm still too slow.

I ran some tests with an RX-7 LM Race and found a technique that worked fairly well. I held the accelerator right around 3,000 rpms in first gear then kept the accelerator on that point and shifted into third gear where I floored it the rest of the way. I still spun my tires a bit but it wasn't quite so bad.

Today I plan on taking an RX-7 FC3S and running similar tests. Flywheel, driveshaft, full-custom gear box and suspension, triple plate clutch and engine balancing are the parts I'm going to get. I'll turn off TCS and ASM and see what I can get with standard wheels using the same technique.

In theory, the highest torque should be just below the redline. You can't really feel torque in GT3 but if you look at Specs when you're selecting a car, it'll tell you your max torque and the revs in which it lies.

In real life driving, holdng the gas in a little bit and slowly releasing the clutch is just good technique all together. Even in everyday driving. I tend to have a heavy right foot though.... lol I accidentally rev up a lot.
No, really. It's an accident.

 

[RedWolfRacer]

Well, said technique worked pretty well, but I still had some wheel slippage. I'm not sure I can do any better with a DS2. I don't really feel like spending 100+ dollars on a racing wheel, even if I DID just get a decent job.

I'm still looking for some other techniques and settings to improve my initial acceleration without damaging my cornering ability or speed on the rest of the course.

 

[Vision GT]

What car are you using? What kind of tires are you using? Did you turn the driving Aids off?

It's a game, just redline the damn car. If your car have a lot of HP, RWD, sport/racing soft tires, driving aids off, you will peel a lot and other cars will easily pass you. AWD, no matter what, they take off on the launch. FWD cars, I don't use them that often because IT JUST CAN'T KEEP UP WITH RWD AND AWD. Not unless I have Civic race days with these civic guys.

 

[Izanagi]

For throttle and brake, use the right thumbstick and learn to modulate it. I've gotten used to it and I can't go back to the X button at all. It works so well! And yes, it's dependent from car to car. Some, like the Toyota TS-020 (GT-ONE) are hard to keep from spinning due to ridiculous fast spool past 4000 rpm. However, less powerful cars are a lot easier to use. Just make sure you pay attention to each car's powerband and play with the throttle accordingly. AND NO TCS! Those three letters should be banned from your vocabulary under *almost* all circumstances (some people do like to add +1 TCS when using FAST cars like the TS-020 for more realism since some cars do actually have a TCS system). Sorry about my ramblings....it's been a long day.

Oh, and as for the problem with torque and totally unrealistic engine revving in GT3, it's because all of the cars were recorded when they were stationary. Notice the fact that the acceleration on most cars is almost perfectly linear. No boost spikes, no dead spots followed by gobs of torque from nowhere. I think, being the anal realism freak I am, that PD's faliure to reproduce accurate engine characteristics really kills the driving experience in the game. I have yet to see an EVO packing 500 hp in the game react like a real life counterpart. Where's the lag? Wheres the ridiculous boost spike at around 3500 rpm when the GT35R kicks in??? One day, we will have it....please PD...one day! OK, I'm done. Gnite all!

 

[AngelCreator]

Try this once, if you have Full Customize Suspension set the rear camber at
0.5 as this will set more of the tire on the road and give you more grip.
Also set first gear higher too as it will be harder to get the wheel to spin.

 

[SUPRA 1064 BHP]

i noticed the way AngleCreator said about changing tire camber, this works but then as u try to corner you usally just slide out which in most case's is gd but not all the time. if u have a Turbo meter use that, thats wat i do, keep it around half way till u get into second then floor it.

 

[AngelCreator]

Yes thats true too SUPRA 1064 BHP. Thats the nice thing about GT3 and GT4
because you can drive high HP cars without spinning the wheels.

 

[Parnelli Bone]

Maybe, I don't know a lot about drag technique in real cars. The problem is that that GT3 won't tell you when the highest torque is.

Yeah, this is the one thing i HATE about GT3 & 4...they neglect to include any torque info when you're setting up your car for a race. You can see torque and peak rpms for torque & horsepower only in your garage.

Oh, and as for the problem with torque and totally unrealistic engine revving in GT3, it's because all of the cars were recorded when they were stationary. Notice the fact that the acceleration on most cars is almost perfectly linear. No boost spikes, no dead spots followed by gobs of torque from nowhere. I think, being the anal realism freak I am, that PD's faliure to reproduce accurate engine characteristics really kills the driving experience in the game. I have yet to see an EVO packing 500 hp in the game react like a real life counterpart. Where's the lag? Wheres the ridiculous boost spike at around 3500 rpm when the GT35R kicks in??? One day, we will have it....please PD...one day! OK, I'm done. Gnite all!

GT1 is the only game that got it right. If haven['t tried this game yet: it's the only one in which a super-powerful turbo has no boost below a certain RPM, and this goes for some natural-aspirated cars as well.

I've noticed that no matter what car I'm using and what position I qualify, I usually am passed at the start of races by computer cars. I'm not too worried about this as I usually win anyway but it's driving me nuts not knowing why I have such a slow launch from a static beginning (instead of a running start).

I'm thinking maybe it's technique. I always run manual transmission revving the car on and off rhythmically. I find the rhythmic apprach (instead of holding the accelerator and letting the rev limiter to drop my speed) is usually faster, but not fast enough.

Any general tips or tuning suggests that will help me get off the line a bit faster?

Here's one that nobody has added yet: try launching in 2nd gear! Also, what race are you attempting and what car are you driving? 4-wheel drive and mid-engine cars always get a better launch than front-drive or FR cars since power gets put to pavement less efficiently in these.

So far as your tecnique goes, i'll echo what some others have said: if you're not using TCS, you'll have to learn the cars powerband (you can see both torque and horsepower in the garage) so you get some idea how it's gonna behave.

 

[sucahyo]

Use heavier flywheel if the wheel spinning.

Maybe, I don't know a lot about drag technique in real cars. The problem is that that GT3 won't tell you when the highest torque is.

Start at high gear, and see at which rpm the speed change the fastest, that's where the highest tourqe is. I only try this in GT2 and GT4 though. It seem accurate in GT2, a bit less on GT4. It looks accurate in GT1 too.

Learning how the car power distribute can help us find when or how to change gear or when to ease of the throttle or WOT.

GT1 supra, notice that in 2000rpm car with this monstrous power had only tiny bit of hp , read as about 10lb-ft of tourqe at 2000rpm.


GT2 supra, look about the same with GT4 one, read as about 60lb-ft of tourqe at 2000rpm.


GT1 supra tourqe start to hike at 4000 rpm, GT2 supra tourqe start to hike at 1000rpm . At launch this feel as very slow start and very sudden burst at 4000rpm in GT1, and spinning start and then gradually reduced acceleration in GT2.

GT1 is the only game that got it right. If haven't tried this game yet: it's the only one in which a super-powerful turbo has no boost below a certain RPM, and this goes for some natural-aspirated cars as well.

Is that realistic?
I don't think it's real when a 900hp+ car has barely enough power go uphill at 2000 rpm.....

 

[Parnelli Bone]

Is that realistic?
I don't think it's real when a 900hp+ car has barely enough power go uphill at 2000 rpm.....

It should have some natural power at 2000 rpm, but it shouldn't have any boost yet. Boost shouldn't kick in for another 1,500 to 2,000 rpms in a car with this much power. Trust me, they got it right the first time, and messed with the formula in GT2 & 3, probly to accomodate all the newbs who they knew would be buying.

 

[sucahyo]

It should have some natural power at 2000 rpm, but it shouldn't have any boost yet. Boost shouldn't kick in for another 1,500 to 2,000 rpms in a car with this much power. Trust me, they got it right the first time, and messed with the formula in GT2 & 3, probly to accomodate all the newbs who they knew would be buying.

How much is this natural power?

the GT1 supra rz power figure shows about 25hp/20kgm at 2000rpm, and almost zero hp at 1000rpm. Do Supra RZ supposed to have power this low at low rpm? The car not supposed to be able to climb uphill at 1000rpm?

 

[Parnelli Bone]

I don't know, Sucahyo. I don't know how much natural power a high-powered turbo engine should or shouldn't have at 1,000 rpm, nor am i gonna get into details.

All i'm saying is: in a car with loads of turbo-pressure, there should be massive gaps of power on the low end; to the point that you should be able to get usable torque ONLY after the turbo kicks in. See? This is what turbo-lag is. And it is why turbocharged engines have lower-compression pistons than naturally-powered engines. They got this right in GT1 and only in GT1.

Also, how often in racing scenarios do you see a JGTC car driving up a hill using just 1,000 rpm? Never! It's cuz they're too busy trying to keep their revs high, just like we do in GT.

 

[sucahyo]

I see.

I found modded supra power chart.

Stage 2 is over 320kW at the rear wheels, in 4th gear, using only 0.9 Kg/cm2 of boost (~13 psi). around 460 US hp.
From graphic, if 4th gear reach 150kph+ at 7000rpm, at 50kph I calculate it about 2500rpm.
tourqe at 50kph is around 1/3 max. power at 50kph is around 1/7 max.
this graph is look more like GT1

From this graphic it's true that GT1 has more realistic power figure 👍 .

 

[Vision GT]

This matters most with the person in control. If you turn the TCS off on a RWD or FWD, you really can't just floor it on the launch or else you'll sit their peeling out. You have to be light on the throttle. It also depends on which type of tires you are using.

 

[Parnelli Bone]

I see.

I found modded supra power chart.

Stage 2 is over 320kW at the rear wheels, in 4th gear, using only 0.9 Kg/cm2 of boost (~13 psi). around 460 US hp.
From graphic, if 4th gear reach 150kph+ at 7000rpm, at 50kph I calculate it about 2500rpm.
tourqe at 50kph is around 1/3 max. power at 50kph is around 1/7 max.
this graph is look more like GT1

From this graphic it's true that GT1 has more realistic power figure 👍 .

Wow, looka that....looks just like GT1, you're right. Like i said, i imagine they didn't put realisitc turbo boost in gt2, 3, and 4 because think of all the newbs & intermediates who would think "oh, this sucks...i've got a 900 horsepower car and it don't move". Then GT starts losing money to Need 4 Speed cuz a large segment of people are now going "GT sucks. In GT you can buy a 900 hp Skyline but it don't move".

..course, i'm just theorizing. I could be completely wrong!

 

[Parnelli Bone]

This matters most with the person in control. If you turn the TCS off on a RWD or FWD, you really can't just floor it on the launch or else you'll sit their peeling out. You have to be light on the throttle. It also depends on which type of tires you are using.

Yup, that's sort of what i said earlier in this thread. Personally, i prefer to have TCS off, and over-rev my engine just a tad....i love seeing tire smoke! In certain situations (like if i HAVE to get a good start or else i'll lose a series) I'll turn the TCS on "1", but that's it.