Help! (I hope this is not a just-another-silly tread)

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Levi086

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Hello guys,
being one of the GT fans like you guys (maybe not to that extremity), I recently bought the console and gt4 of course and started (or resumed it ... from GT1) my gt experience.

Got all the licenses, bought a skyline '89, bought some sports parts related to handling, tuned and adjusted it. But I'm finding it really difficult to start being competitive - the problem being the financial credits, not to mention I maxed out the skyline's top speed (and therefore finding it too difficult to keep with faster cars in straights)
Therefore - what car should I aim for now? The Supra or the Mitsu evo? Obviously I would be tuning it and race it most of the time so it must be a good value car. Do you suggest some other car?

Sorry if this is replied somewhere else ...I haven't found this particular question in the FAQs and the search bar seems to be a little "out of order" at the moment :)

And by the way - I am extremely disappointed The Toyota Supra and Celica models are not for sale as new ... being a toyota fan myself. Is it only the europe copy which have this ?

Thanks a lot guys - looking forward to start learning about the intricacy of racing.
 
But that's exactly what makes the game interesting. You will get bored too fast if you buy the über-maxibest car and win it all without effort.

Do not get rid of your car. Make it your favorite, get some money piece by piece and keep tuning it.

Your situation will force you to learn how to get the BEST of your car -- and your driving style.

Try to race some JPN Events with it, re-tune it. Run factory events.

Extend your evolution within the game so you don't quit it in a month or two.
 
Yea that skyline with stages of tuning can take you really far into the game to where winning cars and making money is easy. For that early in the game I'd agree to just keep it unless for personal preference you want something else. Due to the autosave function though its hard to know what cars can be insanely tuned and others that can't but the '90+ skyline's all can be heavily tuned with major HP improvements.
 
Dimitrov
But that's exactly what makes the game interesting. You will get bored too fast if you buy the über-maxibest car and win it all without effort.
Click to expand...

I agree dimitrov, it's one reason why I don't want to upgrade my car parts from the sports ones I currently own (not to mention I hate winning just because I'm the top speeder on the track).

I guess I'll disable the autosave feature from the options to check out if my skyline can top up a little more in speed since that is what I need most. Cornering is not a prob - the car seems to be finely tuned to embarass the other better cars when corner exiting.

Also, what's the main difference in two identical models with different mileage?

Thanks again
 
The mileage difference only matters if one is a 6.2 miler (10 km) and the other is a much driven one. In that case the low mileage one is like a new car and the other is a well-used car, with dirty oil, worn engine and a twitchy chassis.

If they both have tens of thousands of miles on the clock, it makes no difference. :)
 
Regarding your skyline, it sounds to me like you need to give it a new gearbox. If your reaching top speed on many of the tracks you have plenty of room to lenthen the gear ratio's, so buy yourself a racing gearbox and change the ratio's so the car will go faster.
 
I way just buy a racing transmission to let you car go faster, and keep going at it, but if you must, I sugest using the Lancer, because the toyota is probably harder to control once the power starts increasing.
 
My suggestion is just like you guys above.

Levi086, let the engine upgrades to the end. Pretend that engine tweaks for your model are out of stock and there is no reseller with units available.

Also, work only with that does not affects power directly. Enhance breaks, throw away passenger seat (and make a GT4 cockpit :) ), buy some tires, calibrate carefully your gear ratios. Make experiments with suspension.

Go wash your car and put a crazy rear wing. Do everything but engine. When there is no more to squeeze from it, start with exhaust, racing chip.. etc.

👍 👍 👍 This will make you a better player. 👍 👍 👍
 
thanks for the tips guys - i've done what dimitrov said and I won some races by a 0.6xx gap. Close and I think the old skyline must come to an end.

Now about a new car ... there are around 6 types of skylines brand new ... wth is the difference really ? the torque and power at the bottom of the screen appears the same (almost) for each version. Which should I get?
Or else, I'm really interested in how the car handles and accelerate - which car would satisfy me between the Evo and the skyline ?

Thanks once again
 
If your Skyline is 4WD then maybe get used Mazda RX7 and have fun with RWD car.
 
For the difference of the Skylines, try the search-function. The weight is one difference.
I don't know what races you've finished, but the skyline would've gotten you the sunday cup, the 4WD, the turbo, some manufactures races and perhaps the clubman and some japanese races. Use it for some special condition races too.
Next you need is something for the FF, FR, MR races.
I like to use cars that can do as many wins as possible before changing to the next. The Mazda mx-5 (Miata) could be a nice move.
 
S13 is good when starting the game,but i think that the RSC rally raid car is the spoiler in the game,what do you think,it is very easy money when you start the game!
 
People always find out ways how to make easy money. I don't think it was a plane to make playerstruggle to get new cars and upgrades
 
heh I remember (not that long ago) coming out of the sunday races to eagerly put a new exhaust on my MR2 (was like 7k and it's a light MR which works well at low power). Then go race another to buy new clutch plates. Another race to go buy racing brakes :P Was alot of fun eeking it out on my first car. Now, even though I am sitting on 10 mil, 150+ cars, all black LMP's, A8, Pesc, etc I still like playing around with low power cars and do alot of races stock. Just because you have money doesn't mean it has to ruin your game. On the contrary. Money just as in real life, is freedom of choice.

The only thing about cheapo cars I can't stand though is the super soft suspensions. Nothing worse then nose diving into the pavement.

Some of the better choices (bang for your buck) to modify/upgrade when you are poor is:

OIL CHANGE!!!! (even for NEW cars too it gives an HP boost)
Racing chip -good power boost for cheap
Racing flywheel
Sports exhaust
Triple plate clutch
Stage 1 weight reduction (especially for heavy cars like the skylines, it can knock almost 200 kg off for a measely $1200.)
Stage 1 turbo/NA (depends on the car and how much boost. sometimes its not worth it where suspension or weight or transmission mods help more for the money)
Rear wing (less helpful on slower cars then faster cars)

If you are really underpowered for a race, nitrous can be a cheapo way to give you an edge for 5,000 which is cheaper then higher end turbo's or NA and also help maintain high A-spec points. Still N2O is a bit lame for most races and you only neeed it if your going for some difficult 200 point races.

Tires are sort of debateable as later on you will be using medium to hard tires for most races anyways so I never bothered much with soft tires. A well tuned, well balanced car can win almost all races on medium to hard tires and like I said, alot of races later you will be using hard to super hard as soft tires last like 2 laps.

All the other upgrades (custom transmission, LSD, Stage 3 weight, Stage 4 turbo, etc) are of course benficial but often very costly and may not be worth the expense early in the game. One thing you may want to do when trying to enter model specific races is see where you can win a prize car to use. Most of this game can be done by winning prize cars to get you to the next race series. In fact like 90%+ of the game can be done before you need to buy a car just from prize cars.

As for the different Skylines (new). They may have the same HP and near same weight stock but have different upgrade potentials. I think the Skyline GT-R M-spec NUR (R34) '02 has the highest HP upgrade potential. I have like 8 skylines (5 new, 3 used '70-'80) and this one seems to be the best potential.

For a skyline I would get a stage 1 weight reduc first, then racing chip, Flywheel, brakes (IMO good brakes really become important for a heavy 350hp+ car), etc. I would work to get a custom suspension too since tuning the suspension can make HUGE differences in your races over stock. I could probably do better with a custom suspension and stock engine then a stage 2 turbo and stock suspension, depends on the tracks though.

p.s. woot! NY Rangers won in a overtime shootout! (was watching while writing this :) )
 
Levi086
Now about a new car ... there are around 6 types of skylines brand new ... wth is the difference really ? the torque and power at the bottom of the screen appears the same (almost) for each version. Which should I get?
Or else, I'm really interested in how the car handles and accelerate - which car would satisfy me between the Evo and the skyline ?
Click to expand...

If they're all the same generation of Skyline, there very little difference. Just buy the lightest one, if there is one (you can check the weight of the car by looking at the "specs" page, which appears when you hit "X" and the game asks you, "are you sure you want to buy this car?")....or, if you want, buy the one that has your favorite color amongst the choices. :lol:

Evo's are smaller and lighter than Skylines, so they'll do better in corners, and have an acceleration advantage over an equal-HP Skyline.
 
I disagree with most of you to some extent. It's okay to get an "Uber-maxibest" car, but the challenge of gaining A-spec points is still there.
 
Ok i bought the evo rs edition since it boasts more hp and reasonable weight as stock.

But I'm a little disappointed with it's excessive understeer, especially in short tracks such as autumn ring and car park.... which is highly probable that it's because the car is a 4WD.

Right now I bought a spoiler for the downforce, racing suspensions, and the first weight reduction.
I'm trying to fiddle with the TOE and camber, but I don't know which is the toe in or toe out - negative or positive? The same goes for the stabilizers.


PS: it still breaks the timing record of my old skyline by less than a second but the driving style is totally different unfortunately :/
 
Hapul
I disagree with most of you to some extent. It's okay to get an "Uber-maxibest" car, but the challenge of gaining A-spec points is still there.
Click to expand...

Each one with his views on the game.

I, personally, don't care so much about A-Spec pts. If we were able to reach a number x of points and then unlock tracks or cars, ok then. I would be the first to reach 9999999 A-Spec pts.

Now I am only worried about getting my Über-Maxibest fun. If it coincides with getting the Über-Maxibest car, let's go. If it coincides with getting my old beloved crappy Isuzu Piazza No-Oil-Changed, using a rapidfire joystick to simulate acceleration problems, even better:crazy:
 
I've adjusted the car and it improved in terms of handling. Though when I went to race in Autumn Ring I noticed a rather odd problem - the rear tyres seems to be slipping in the track. The front tyres got warm (highlight green) after two laps while the rear tyres stayed almost blue from start to finish!

What should I do? Apply downforce? atm the downforce is equal to both front ghand rear (scale of 6 downforce)


*EDIT*: i've tried removing the lack of rear grip with downforce but no use. I also bought a fully custom LSD to givemore acceleration, deceleration and traction to the rear but no use! However I noticed that if the car turns right, the front-left tyre warms up faster ... much faster than the right one.

I think I need to do more homework on my evo.
 
Levi086: Of course playing with the suspension and other tunings will help the Evo with less understeer if that is what you wish. While well driven understeer often equates for faster laps, I prefer a slight oversteer as well in most cases. Easiest thing to do is change your camber (higher like 3-3.5 front 1.5-2.5 rear) and even out your toe angle or even go positive 1 or 2. Also unbalance your brakes for a bit of brake oversteer if you want (increase the rear for oversteer lessen the front like say 6:9). I wouldn't go over 10 on the brakes as most cars tend to lose brake power badly over 10. As for your toe angle, toe in (negative) will make the car a little more stable but most of the times you don't need to play with the toe that much I find. Maybe a -1 or -2 on the rear with some cars help (especially rear wheel). Excessive toe angle and camber will hurt your tire wear though.

I am by no means an expert though and you should check out the tuning forum and FAQ's. There are lots of skyline and Evo tuning tips.

As for your heavy front tire wear, 4WD cars can do that, especially on small tight turning tracks like autumn ring mini. You'll find your front tires will wear alot faster. On most situations you can't even tire wear from front to rear, close sometimes but usually not totally even. Depends on race conditions and car, and tunings. It's usually not a big deal. Just change to a harder tire (unless your tunings are really out of whack causing extreme tire wear like camber or toe). In *most* cases you never want to decrease your downforce. I can't tell you why you may be losing traction on the rear. Maybe someone else can or maybe you need to provide more info about your tunings. Sounds to me like your suspension might need a little adjustment. Also your LSD settings may be different from front to rear. Not sure really but you can probably expect more tire wear on the front in those race conditions though anyways. The car is a front engine AWD so still, most of the cars weight is in the front causing more tire wear but maybe not as much as you are getting.
 
Levi086
Though when I went to race in Autumn Ring I noticed a rather odd problem - the rear tyres seems to be slipping in the track. The front tyres got warm (highlight green) after two laps while the rear tyres stayed almost blue from start to finish!
Click to expand...

I autocross a pretty well-modified Evo in real life, on high performance "slick" R compound tires. I'm keenly aware of tire wear, tire temperature, tire pressure, etc.

Basically, there is nothing useful that you can do to "equalize" the tire usage on an Evo, either in GT4 or real life. Well, maybe if you reduce the rear grip so far that the back end is just sliding all over the place, but the car won't be driveable... Or you could dial in so much rear toe-in that the rear tires are at a significant slip angle just driving in a straight line, but that will make the car understeer and (in real life) just cost you more money in worn-out tires.

Think of it, the front tires are carrying 60% of the weight -- even more on my car, since the majority of my weight reduction is to the back of the driver's seat -- plus providing at least 80% of the braking force. They also are subjected to greater slip angles than the rear tires while cornering.


Better to adjust your driving and your suspension tune to the tire behavior. You know that the front tires are going to go off, which will cause understeer. So set the car up just a little bit loose to begin with, so that as the tires start to go, the car will have some built-in looseness to combat the tire-induced understeer.

And speaking from real-life and GT4, an Evo is one of the easiest cars to handle with a loose setup. The very first time I ever took the car to a road course, it rained and the back end stepped out on me at about 60 MPH on a wet off-camber curve. I've driven a bunch of high performance cars, Porsches, BMWs, RX7s, etc., and I can only think of two of them where I would have saved the car in that corner -- the Evo and the Porsche 928. (The handling of the 928 is absolutely amazing -- it's a shame that none of the GT games have ever had a 928.)
 
start new and buy a used car, makes more challenge.
when you get 100% you can use any cheat you desire for fun
 
I've started GT mode from scratch, got the first two licences silver for now and the reward cars are simply great
also, the int. B license reward car was a honda 4WD - a completely balanced car in terms of tyre traction, unlike my prior mitsu evo. The problem was definitely in my mitsu, not because it's a 4WD per se.

Just replied in case someone is too dumb like me for failing what's wrong with the car's rear hehe
 
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