Help!!! Lost FFB 2 days in a row.

[Troysloth]

I have a Fanatec CSR Elite wheel and CSP V2 pedals which I currently only use on the PC.

Yesterday and today I ran the Grand Am Sports Car Series in iRacing. Yesterday I used the Riley DP and today I used the McLaren. The races are 80 minutes long. Both days I lost FFB with about 9 minutes left in the race.

I have never had this happen before. I ran a few of these 80 minute races last season. I have also run some 90 minute races in a league I joined.

I can't reset the wheel in game to get FFB back. The only way to get it back is to exit the session and restart the wheel.

The wheel is working fine otherwise. No funny smells or signs of overheating. The air coming out the right side of the wheel is cool.

Is it possible that it's something in the iRacing update?

Is there possibly something in my power settings?

I'm at a loss here and I have a 90 minute league race tomorrow night. I really hope I can get this figured out before then.

 

[Imari]

I'd just like to bump this as I've had a similar problem.

Fanatec CSR, racing on iRacing in the Star Mazda at Suzuka (for what it's worth). The last two races I've had the wheel just cut out.

It should also be noted that I've done half a dozen Rookie Mazda races today with no problems, but both Star Mazda races have had this.

On the replay the steering goes straight, all pedals go to half travel, and most bizarrely, when this happened all the ingame sounds went to a really low volume.

After the wheel cuts out for a second or so it comes back, with no FFB. No connect/disconnect chimes from windows, no lights flashing on/off on the wheel that would make me think power issues.

Turning the wheel on/off while in session doesn't help, the FFB is still gone. Exiting session and re-entering fixes it, even if you don't turn the wheel off first.

Has anyone else ever had a similar problem, or have any idea what this could be? Am I right in thinking it may not actually be a hardware problem?

 

[HBR-Roadhog]

I have had this type of problem on the XBox several times. The wheel just stops responding and the controls seem to stay where ever they were when is dropped out. Once I actually managed to restart the wheel without a penalty on my lap because it dropped out as I was braking hard for a corner. My car just stopped right there and I reset the wheel.

I have not had this happen except with the XBox and I suspected it was the wireless interface that was an issue. Are you guys connected directly via USB or are you using the wireless USB adapter?

 

[Imari]

I have had this type of problem on the XBox several times. The wheel just stops responding and the controls seem to stay where ever they were when is dropped out. Once I actually managed to restart the wheel without a penalty on my lap because it dropped out as I was braking hard for a corner. My car just stopped right there and I reset the wheel.

I have not had this happen except with the XBox and I suspected it was the wireless interface that was an issue. Are you guys connected directly via USB or are you using the wireless USB adapter?

USB for me. I've had the suggestion that it may be the USB port being overloaded on power (I don't think so, but maybe) or that the port was going to sleep.

Going to try some USB based adjustments tonight and see if I still get the same problem.