Help on my G27

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o0oSUTILO0o

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Philippines
Philippines
I got a problem with my G27 wheel. My G27 is recognized by my pc as G25. As an act of desperation, i tried to open my G27 to see what might be the problem. I was successful in opening it. The problem is, when i touched the capacitor shown below, it fell down and I can't find it. :ouch:
There must already be a problem with the part because I barely touched it and it fell. I am also thinking that it may have been the cause of the said problem.

Can anybody help me identifying this part? :guilty:

Thanks in advance.

g27board.jpg


G27board_zpsa0670ac8.jpg
 
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I hope that someone else can provide better help than I can, but have you called/emailed/contacted Logitech and asked them which c24 capacitors they are using?
 
@Teflonicus
Yes I did but they can't provide me with the value of the capacitor. I really hope that somebody with a G27 can give me the value of this capacitor.
Anyway, thanks.
 
o0oSUTILO0o,

I'm not an electrician. I do have a G27 though. Now, I'm not sure if I have a Phillips screwdriver long and thin enough to open my wheel case (I'm about to search the garage now), but if I open my case and type out the information printed on the c24 capacitor inside, will it provide the information you need?
 
o0oSUTILO0o
Yes, it will be a big help. 👍
I hope you won't damage you G27 for helping me.

Thanks so much for doing this. :cheers:
Click to expand...

No problem. I hope I don't either. Hang on and I'll see if the screwdriver fits and if I can get inside. I'm not making any promises. I'll try though :)
 
I hope this helps because it's the best I could manage. I took off all the screws from the bottom of the device, but the baseplate would not come away. (Perhaps I need to take off the wheel for that? I don't have Allen keys for that though) With the baseplate wedged open, that tiny capacitor is at the front, and I could just see the following:

It's a 7mm high x 5mm wide (estimation), cylindrical capacitator with a silver, metallic top and black heatshrink over the shaft (leaving the silver top exposed) with white writing on the black heatshrink. The white writing says the following in four vertical lines:

sp M 106P M
UX()N 6-LUXM
85•C SF85•C
25V 25

* The "•" listed next to "85" is actually the small, circle symbol for "degrees," as in "85 degrees Celcius". My phone doesn't have that icon though.

Also, at first, I thought the "()" was a "U". I used a mini-microscope half poking through the gap to make out, what we call, "brackets" or parenthesis.
 
Im not sure if that is the right part. Do you see a microfarad sign that looks like this " μF ". its like a small "u' and a small "f".

it should be beside the "25v" that you see.

Would it be too much if you'll take a picture of it so I can see if its the right one? I'm really sorry, I know I'm asking too much from you. :nervous:
 
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I would call Logitech and see if you can buy a replacement card. Is it still under warranty? They might just send you the card.
 
Are you absolutely positive the capacitor was broken before you took the lid off? Generally speaking capacitors don't "fall off." If you hook everything back up does the wheel still show in your PC as a G25?

If you were absolutely certain that was the problem, I would call Logitech back and ask for them to drop ship you the board and you'll ship the bad one back to them. Most manufacturer's will want the whole unit back. If you talk to them as you understand how to replace parts, and depending on the person you get on the phone. You may get the board mailed to you.

Now I've never had to do this for any logitech hardware, but for other vendors I use a work, it's sometimes an option.

However it might just be there policy to always want the hardware back.

That's assuming it's under warranty.
 
@ Infinital-NG

There is definitely something wrong with that capacitor but I'm not sure if its the only part that causes the problem. I was just slightly moving the parts from this board when it fell off. I have repaired many things before and I know if I'm applying too much pressure to make that capacitor fall. Even if you move any capacitor, it would take you a lot of movement to make it fall.

It's already out of warranty that's why I'm trying to repair it myself. I hope Teflonicus can help me with this one.:nervous:

Anyway, thanks for the advice. :)
 
o0oSUTILO0o
@ Teflonicus

This is what the value that i need looks like. The original capacitor looks very similar to this.

Capacitor_zps33011f20.jpg
Click to expand...

As I mentioned, without an Allen key (hex driver), I can't get the steering wheel out. I could only open the backplate and peek in through the gap. I tried taking a picture with my phone, but the gap was too small, the light inside too limited, and the details too small to focus with that camera. Even a better camera that I have is not going to be able to focus on text 1mm high ... certainly not from that angle.

I couldn't see the unexposed side of the capacitor, and while I thought a small mirror would have been ideal to do so, I don't have one.

To expose that circuitry board, what did you take off? Did you have to remove the steering wheel itself?

Also, I Googled a similar problem by a man trying to fix a speaker. Is it possible to allow for greater values than are necessary?
 
I took off the steering wheel with an allen wrench when iI opened it. I don't think I can put a higher value than the original part. I'm really sorry for the trouble. But let me know if just in case you can completely open your wheel.

Thank you so much for the help. :bowdown:
 
You're welcome :)

Just to be clear, that circuit board that you photographed, was it visible under the wheel after removing the allen/hex bolts or was it in the base of the unit? (I've previously undone the wheel and noticed a circuit board under the steering wheel.)
 
I have one in the trunk of my car. I'll go grab it and open it up.

However, that cap is probably not essential to operation and is just there as a noise filter. It also shouldn't make your wheel show up as a G25, but it's not impossible. The circuit boards in the G25 and G27 are almost identical.

I would bet that the cap is the same size, etc. as the one up above it in the picture you posted.
 
Ok, I just looked. It's a 4.7uF 25v cap

Best of luck! :D

I think these are pretty common in the assortments you get at RadioShack. I have a bunch at home if you want me to send you one tomorrow. No charge except $1 for shipping. Let me know.
 
@ Teflonicus
No problem man. Really appreciate all your efforts to help me. Thanks so much. :bowdown:

@ mrbasher
Wow! an answer from heaven! Hahaha!
I'll try to replace it later and see what will happen. I'll try to keep you guys posted about this.
Thank you so much!:bowdown:
 
No prob man. :) I literally had a wheel in the back of my car. Just had to pop it open far enough to see the cap. I got lucky and it was facing the right direction.

All you gotta do is make sure the polarity is correct when you put it in. Should be a piece of cake to solder.
 
o0oSUTILO0o
@ Teflonicus
No problem man. Really appreciate all your efforts to help me. Thanks so much. :bowdown:

@ mrbasher
Wow! an answer from heaven! Hahaha!
I'll try to replace it later and see what will happen. I'll try to keep you guys posted about this.
Thank you so much!:bowdown:
Click to expand...

No worries at all, o0oSUTILO0o. I'm sorry I couldn't be of further help, but I am really glad that Mrbasher came along and had his capacitor facing that way :) If you have a chance, please let us know how replacing the capacitor goes. I hope it all works out for you.

P.S. Nice work, Mrbasher!
 
Sorry for the late reply. I have replaced the capacitor already. Now my pc identifies it as a Driving force pro. I tried researching about it. Some says that the G27 sometimes have a multiple personality. They said that it adopts to what game you play. But I cant make it work for me. Any ideas on this? :confused:
 

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