How accurate is the game at simulating chassis wear?

  • Thread starter Thread starter XSquareStickIt
  • 18 comments
  • 1,669 views
XSquareStickIt

XSquareStickIt

Messages
2,125
Singapore
Singapore
Messages
XSquareStickIt
I've been wondering for quite some time how accurately the game simulates chassis wear. I hear it's quite an issue in real life when it comes to endurance races, but I'm already feeling my chassis starting to flex and slide my rear out halfway through a 7 lap race that I had restored my chassis for prior. This is especially evident for cars with incompetent chassis like the earlier models of the FD RX-7. Am I driving my cars too hard, or is the game quickening the rate at which chassis deteriorate to make the player spend more money to restore them? Because a chassis rigidity restoration could easily cost around HALF of what you pay for your car brand new. Using the FD RX-7 example again, I usually end up paying 19k for a chassis restore when the car cost around 35k brand new. Is any of this realistic at all? Thanks in advance for any answers you guys may have.
 
Seriously ?
 
Maybe your rear is sliding out as you have poor tires on your rear, and you are using a rear wheel drive car. 💡
 
It's more than likely all in your head mate. When you start a race your tires are cold and the transaction between grip and loss of grip is slower in my experience with GT5. When your tires heat up however you get more grip but when you do lose grip the transaction is more rapid.
After a few laps of driving a certain car, you will adapt to the dynamics and rhythm that is presented to you. Although you may not notice it, you will end up pushing the car harder than you did at the start of the race and your driving line will change. The car will seem to perform differently but it's just your change in driving.

I recommend that you stop worrying about this apparent problems. I know that if I stopped trying to figure out how to max my PP by getting dirty oil in my car and instead focused on my actual driving line and consistency, I'd be a far faster driver. :lol: 👍
 
Isn't that only issues of your tyres you selected for the race or the type of wheel drive of your car?

The driving conditions do change as tyres wear out and it becomes easier for you to widen the range where you place your car for the best driving line - and also it greatly varies in accordance with which wheel drive your machine is of, doing something might be safe for certain group of cars whilst doing the same thing with a different family of them isn't very recommendable for maintaining the shape of your driving. 👍
 
Likely not accurate and also we will likely never know.
 
Ben78
Seriously ?
Click to expand...

Super cereal! Like Kellogg's lol

The whole restore body thing I only have used a couple of times on cars that like had a bazillon miles on it it doesn't do much a decent tune and tyre selection is the factor. For example take a large American muscle car it will slip and slide put a tune off a Japanese car for example i used a tune from my Silvia s15 it almost stops the sliding problem it's still there but less annoying it's a couple of things what setup and what tyres and what course. That's my opinion if I am wrong so sue me.
 
how accurate is the chassis wear?

its about as accurate as throwing a sausage down a hallway.
 
There's a few cars that I've actually had to use it on.
Ford GT LM, Bob's X1 and Jaguar XJ220.
 
Well, the "7 lap race" in question is the 530PP FR Challenge Seasonal Event on Mt. Aso (I LOVE that track by the way). Since there is no weather nor time change, I doubt that the track conditions change at all, which leaves only my tyres and chassis (unless the game takes into account the mass of fuel you have left in the tank to, but... hah!) as the variables. I'm using the stock Sports Hard tyres the game gives the car factory fresh. In fact, my entire 1991 FD RX-7 is stock. I restore my chassis right before the race, feel the rear slip and slide, and find out that the game DOES allow me to restore my chassis in GT Auto after the race... for around 19k.
 
So can you tell the difference after you've restored the chassis after doing one race?
 
XSquareStickIt
Well, the "7 lap race" in question is the 530PP FR Challenge Seasonal Event on Mt. Aso (I LOVE that track by the way). Since there is no weather nor time change, I doubt that the track conditions change at all, which leaves only my tyres and chassis (unless the game takes into account the mass of fuel you have left in the tank to, but... hah!) as the variables. I'm using the stock Sports Hard tyres the game gives the car factory fresh. In fact, my entire 1991 FD RX-7 is stock. I restore my chassis right before the race, feel the rear slip and slide, and find out that the game DOES allow me to restore my chassis in GT Auto after the race... for around 19k.
Click to expand...

First of all you get the option to restore your chassis if you enter a race and move 10 feet up the road then quit. It doesn't mean it needs it. Secondly it always costs half the amount of the car.
 
peter_vod69
So can you tell the difference after you've restored the chassis after doing one race?
Click to expand...

Personally, yes. But it might just be mind games since the tyres reset after every race. Thing is, if I don't drive the rubber off my wheels, I'd never put enough strain on my chassis to say for sure it is strained, so I can't just take it easy for one race and isolate the variables that change to just the chassis.
 
XSquareStickIt
is the game quickening the rate at which chassis deteriorate to make the player spend more money to restore them? Because a chassis rigidity restoration could easily cost around HALF of what you pay for your car brand new. .
Click to expand...

Think about that for a second. What incentive would PD have to make you spend more virtual money by making your chassis feel bad after 7 laps? It's all in your head man :)
 
I put 35,000+ km's on my X1 at Indy, rubber band grinding, the entire time scraping the wall at 320 + km/h. Then I entered the same car in the Monza TT and finished in the top 100. Chassis degradation is based solely on mileage, not how the car is driven and the effect is minute in anything less than 10's of 1000's of km's.
 
SimonK
First of all you get the option to restore your chassis if you enter a race and move 10 feet up the road then quit. It doesn't mean it needs it. Secondly it always costs half the amount of the car.
Click to expand...

Half the price of the car up to 500,000 credits.
 
So is there a magic number to refresh the chassis? I usually do it after an endurance race or around 2,500 miles, whichever comes first.
 
I read somewhere that you don't really need to refresh the chassis unless you've done about 150,000 km's but it starts to reduce a fair bit if your hitting the walls a lot because of the forces on the car from hitting the walls!
Might help a little?
 
Back