How to tune?

  • Thread starter Thread starter cggorman
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cggorman

cggorman

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cggorman
OK so I'm kind of new at tuning cars for drag racing... and what i would like to know is if im on the right course with the suspension, ive been reading up on Chassis engineering so that's help quite a bit (please dont tell me HOW to tune but more of pointers to help)

For FR:

Suspension:

(HEIGHT & SPRING RATE]

usually maxed ride height (on front & rear)

Minimum spring rate on front AND rear

[DAMPERS]

Minimum compression(on rear)

Minimum extension(on front)

Maximum extension(Rear)

Maximum compression(on front)

[TOE & CAMBER]

Little to no toe angle

0 camber


[Anti roll bars]

What ever the car came with [Stock]

Drivetrain:

[LSD]

INITIAL TORQUE [5 ]
ACCELERATION SENSITIVITY [60]
BRAKING SENSITIVITY [20]
 
Hi, welcome! First thing you should know is that real life drag racing physics does not work in GT5. Like for example, a -1.00/1.00 toe angle (negative front, positive rear) is optimum in GT5, but it will not work in real life.

There are many resources in this part of the forum that teach you exactly what you need, Check the stickies located at the top of the page. Or, if you're in the app, it's the tab next to "thread"

Happy drag racing and hope to see you on the strip soon! 👍

:cheers:
 
Pointers:

LSD always 60/60/5

NO camber and toe on AWD

Ride height always Min/Max (ACR can be 30/40)

Max/Max spring rates on AWD

Hope this helps out for starters, see you on the strip! 👍
 
DavidtheGT20
Pointers:

LSD always 60/60/5

NO camber and toe on AWD

Ride height always Min/Max (ACR can be 30/40)

Max/Max spring rates on AWD

Hope this helps out for starters 👍
Click to expand...

The ride height can be changed for different cars and still have faster times.

You can have a faster time with a max/max ride height (for muscle cars, etc.)

Remember, you only play with the ride height if you've played with your spring rate.
 
Sometimes cars can be faster with a high front ride height. Try to get optimum weight tranasfer first though.
 
Slashfan
Sometimes cars can be faster with a high front ride height. Try to get optimum weight tranasfer first though.
Click to expand...

That would mean that you would need ballast. But I doubt it will be necessary, for you may have a good 0-60, but your 0-100 will be subpar...

Well in the end of the day, it depends lol
 
Ride height - Indy or SSRX? Lots of cars like max front at SSRX but at Indy that could hurt you. But typically, yes min/max is the standard base for all drivetrains.

Spring rate - These are tricky. 2 FR cars with the same hp and weight could use totally different rates. Usually, FR and FF likes min/max. MR likes max/min, and AWD likes max/max (again, not always)

Dampers - Most of the time, they do nothing. But on some cars they can be .005 or more. These are so easy to figure out though. Just put the transmission on Automatic and trial and error between 1 / 10 , and 10 / 1 and see whats fastest. (come to think of it, you should test ALL your suspension with this method)

Camber - Never put camber on Drive wheels. On an FR/MR car I tend to use 4.0 - 5.5 on the front wheels (differs per car) and on FF cars, 4.0 - 5.5 on the rear wheels. 0.0 / 0.0 on AWD

Toe - LOTS of toe! Toe has like the biggest impact on the suspension. On FR/MR cars, ALWAYS -1.00 on the front wheels. on FF - always -1.00 on the rear wheels. Finding out what toe to use on the drive wheels again, is quite dependent on the car. but most FR/MR cars like from +0.40 up to +1.00. So start at +0.40 . FF seems to like around +0.20 . as for AWD, I've never used any toe on any AWD car but; I've heard from a fast person that its beneficial to use a little on some cars. Use that information as you see fit...

LSD - I use 60 60 5 on all cars. I hear people swearing by 5 5 5 or, default settings. its semantics really, ive never seen LSD effect more than .001 and trial and error fixes that.

To sum it up, most cars in GT5 are very different. So while you can use these tips towards base tunes, every individual car will require more in depth tinkering to find out what is fastest. No 2 different cars will use the same tune. But so far, you've got base suspension figured out.

But keep in mind, the difference between perfect suspension and base tune suspension is not even .05 . The transmission is the important part. So read up on flipping transmissions and how to set gear ratios. and how to shift your car so its in the power band. Thats what matters.
 
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The dampers can affect weight transfer and vary the times a wee bit (.002 or so) in some cars and other cars there's no difference.

Some cars like less than rear 1.00 toe so experiment with it.

I haven't run into a car yet where LSD makes any difference, maybe someone can enlighten me on this ??


Edit: if I saw the above post before I typed this I wouldn't have bothered :)....what he said ^
 
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Play with final gear values and see if you learn anything you didn't know already.

A great way to learn how a single gear behaves is on a Go kart. The 125's have 1 gear to play with and you can learn a lot from just simply testing this in your SSRX speed centre.

Another thing I'd say from reading some of the other comments is start your tune by tuning your suspension 1st. Set the car to auto if possible to begin with and use the black screen launch to test suspension settings. By doing it that way you can accurately see the difference your changes have made against your ghost.

By black screen launch i mean press the throttle before the screen appears and the 3-2-1 countdown starts.
 
swara96
Alright, so my question is still out on the table 👍
Click to expand...

Slash was referring to transfer, which is controlled by dampers. (and spring rate). If you reduce the amount if squat with stiff dampers you reduce the weight transfer.
 
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seanneedscar
Toe - LOTS of toe! Toe has like the biggest impact on the suspension. On FR/MR cars, ALWAYS -1.00 on the front wheels. on FF - always -1.00 on the rear wheels. Finding out what toe to use on the drive wheels again, is quite dependent on the car. but most FR/MR cars like from +0.40 up to +1.00. So start at +0.40 . FF seems to like around +0.20 . as for AWD, I've never used any toe on any AWD car but; I've heard from a fast person that its beneficial to use a little on some cars. Use that information as you see fit...
Click to expand...

How does toe affect the front on rwd cars?

I ask because I tune for 3k and never heard of that, I might have to try but I have a feeling I will lose top end.

I usually just have front 0 and rear to +xx
 
ripcurl
How does toe affect the front on rwd cars?

I ask because I tune for 3k and never heard of that, I might have to try but I have a feeling I will lose top end.

I usually just have front 0 and rear to +xx
Click to expand...

Theoretically, it would keep you in a straight line better so that less energy is lost from wiggling. But that's just what toe is supposed to do, and I'm not sure if that's how the game works.
 
ripcurl
How does toe affect the front on rwd cars?

I ask because I tune for 3k and never heard of that, I might have to try but I have a feeling I will lose top end.

I usually just have front 0 and rear to +xx
Click to expand...


Don't know why but it makes a significant difference over a quarter mile and doesn't seem to slow you down any on the top end, worth a try over the 3000 meters.
 

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