@hsv's Racing Setup Thread / Transferring to the 'Tunes' section

  • Thread starter Bo
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Bo

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I have never posted in the tuning forum, as I have never felt any need to, but since Gran Turismo 6 has arrived I feel that it's time to make my racing setups available to everyone.

I have been setting up cars since the arrival of Gran Turismo 5, but my first attempts were simply guesses. These random settings actually taught me a lot about how settings influenced a car's movements. Coupled with my prior knowledge of settings in real life motorsport, I compiled a small basic formula for all cars, which was tweaked for every car I tested. My setups have contributed to countless online victories, both for me and my small group of PSN friends, as well as Time Trial results entering the top 100.

Most of my setups are developed online, and quite often the setups are incredibly versatile - meaning they can be used across any track. I have only had Gran Turismo 6 for 4 days, but I feel more at home than ever with the in-depth setup options. I hope that all of the GTP community can benefit from these setups, and I would love to receive comments and suggestions from everyone who tries them.

I look forward to seeing the thread develop in the future, and I hope you all enjoy racing and driving with these setups.
 
First one up as promised, hope you enjoy -

Audi R18 TDI (Audi Sport Team Joest) '11

Tyres

Racing Hard


Suspension

Ride Height - 60/60

Spring Rate - 18.64/19.28

Compression - 4/4

Extension - 3/3

ARB - 4/7

Camber - 1.0/0.5

Toe - -0.05/+0.55

BB - 3/0


Gearbox

Top Speed - 211 mph (Geared long)


Limited Slip Differential

Initial Torque - ~/12

Acceleration Sensitivity - ~/26

Braking Sensitivity - ~/16


Downforce

Full downforce both ends (don't know the exact figure, not by my PS3 right now).



Unlike other tuners on GTP, for every setup I post, I will tell you exactly how I came to it. I started off with the knowledge that LMP's are twitchy buggers, no matter what you do to them, so my first job was to get rid of the snap oversteer. The usual fix for this is the 'understeer setup' - harder on the front, and softer on the rear, with some toe-in added at the back. After working with these settings for a while, I felt that it was constantly on the edge of spinning. It continued to find grip, yet it felt too unstable for my liking at high speed. I upped the rear toe to +0.50, as I felt this was not affecting understeer too much and could be increased. As it still felt too prone to letting go, I thought I would try to work an 'oversteer setup' onto the car, as I thought an overly soft rear end would cause too much of an imbalance through high speed sections. This reduced low speed grip slightly, yet increased the high speed grip and stability hugely. The settings listed above are what I concluded at the end of this test.

A hard rear ARB is the immediate fix for a snappy rear end, this is because the soft spring settings, whilst generating grip, are affected too much by quick movements. The hard roll bar prevents the quick weight distribution from becoming too pronounced upon the springs. I decide to run full downforce on all my cars, as I feel it aids cornering stability and lap times more than a high speed setup would. The naturally low top speed of the R18 also means reducing the downforce would not affect straight line speed compared to other cars. The brake balance was settled on after I discovered a large amount of the cornering instability was caused on entry, because of the rear brake balance. I decided to remove all rear brakes, and the car now enters corners with confidence.

As always with LMP's, steady throttle control and is required to keep it from spinning. This setup is primarily designed for high speed tracks, but a steady right foot (or thumb) will prevent most problems.


 
What are the specific ratios for the gears? Or did you just simply set the top speed and leave it as is?
 
The gearbox is completely down to you - I'd recommend 211 for geared long and draft, and about 199 for other tracks (top speed).
 
Time for a quick update soon... the Z4 GT3 and SLS GT3 setups are being finalised. Only 0.043 off between the two.
 
BUMP -

I Fixed the R8 LMS!

The Audi R8 LMS is probably the most hated car in GT6. After a lot of running, i've made it bearable and actually quite quick. 2:05s are possible at Bathurst.

Audi R8 LMS ultra (Audi Sport Team Phoenix) '12

Racing:Soft


Ride Height - 50/50

Spring Rate - 15.90/23.40

Compression - 4/5

Extension - 3/3

ARB - 6/4

Camber - 0.0/0.0

Toe - -0.05/0.80

BB - 3/1


Limited Slip Differential


Initial torque - ~/8

Acceleration Sensitivity - ~/35

Braking Sensitivity - ~/5


Downforce - 400/900


I got this setup by playing around. A logical range of values have illogical results, so it's hard to judge where you are with it. Do not rag this about at low speed - it will spit you off. Please enjoy.

Time to get my other GT3s finalised...


 
First one up as promised, hope you enjoy -

Audi R18 TDI (Audi Sport Team Joest) '11

Tyres

Racing Hard

Suspension

Ride Height - 60/60

Spring Rate - 18.64/19.28

Compression - 4/4

Extension - 3/3

ARB - 4/7

Camber - 1.0/0.5

Toe - -0.05/+0.55

BB - 3/0

Gearbox

Top Speed - 211 mph (Geared long)

Limited Slip Differential

Initial Torque - ~/12

Acceleration Sensitivity - ~/26

Braking Sensitivity - ~/16

Downforce

Full downforce both ends (don't know the exact figure, not by my PS3 right now).



Unlike other tuners on GTP, for every setup I post, I will tell you exactly how I came to it. I started off with the knowledge that LMP's are twitchy buggers, no matter what you do to them, so my first job was to get rid of the snap oversteer. The usual fix for this is the 'understeer setup' - harder on the front, and softer on the rear, with some toe-in added at the back. After working with these settings for a while, I felt that it was constantly on the edge of spinning. It continued to find grip, yet it felt too unstable for my liking at high speed. I upped the rear toe to +0.50, as I felt this was not affecting understeer too much and could be increased. As it still felt too prone to letting go, I thought I would try to work an 'oversteer setup' onto the car, as I thought an overly soft rear end would cause too much of an imbalance through high speed sections. This reduced low speed grip slightly, yet increased the high speed grip and stability hugely. The settings listed above are what I concluded at the end of this test.

A hard rear ARB is the immediate fix for a snappy rear end, this is because the soft spring settings, whilst generating grip, are affected too much by quick movements. The hard roll bar prevents the quick weight distribution from becoming too pronounced upon the springs. I decide to run full downforce on all my cars, as I feel it aids cornering stability and lap times more than a high speed setup would. The naturally low top speed of the R18 also means reducing the downforce would not affect straight line speed compared to other cars. The brake balance was settled on after I discovered a large amount of the cornering instability was caused on entry, because of the rear brake balance. I decided to remove all rear brakes, and the car now enters corners with confidence.

As always with LMP's, steady throttle control and is required to keep it from spinning. This setup is primarily designed for high speed tracks, but a steady right foot (or thumb) will prevent most problems.

Thanks my friend. This set up works very well , tested on High speed ring and Deep Forest
Waiting your Mercedes and BMW GT3 my best regards and compliments

Massimo
 
I tried your set up for the R18 for 24 minutes of Spa and I'm sorry that setup made my car so skittish at low speed in the corners I couldn't keep the car moving at a good enough pace maybe I'm doing something wrong. Let me know
 
You could take the rear camber down to 0 completely, since this was just for balance more than anything else, but the R18 is just a tail happy car at low speed. It relies heavily on aerodynamic grip over mechanical grip.

I'm using this thread as an update feed from now, as I should be posting my back catalogue of tunes into the dedicated section.
 
Try raising ride height and it may solve your problem, also try slightly higher rear compression and extension. It could help.
 
I've been continually tweaking it, but I haven't really improved significantly over the original one.
 

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